It's the wind.

The wind came, and so did the waves.

Ye Kai can predict the weather changes within two or three hours by observing the celestial phenomena, this skill is far worse than the weather forecast, and the weather forecast of others can predict for a week.

But Ye Kaisheng is precise.

There is a slight difference in Dinan's observation ability and Ye Kai.

In fact, he didn't know if he was looking at the clouds or the sea, but if a big wave was coming, he could have a premonition.

It's even more evil than Ye Kai.

Di Nan said to Ye Kai, "Don't forget what we're here for, we're here to surf." Did you promise me to remember? Come on, just this wave. ”

Compare previous experience.

This wave is only five or six meters at most, and it is the current outward, which is the safest kind of wave. It's easy to control him myself, but why am I so scared?

Two 300-meter-tall buildings, separated by one meter in between.

Looking down from the tall building, you can only see the vehicles like ants, and even people can't see clearly, and you can only see those small black dots with good eyesight.

It's only such a short meter.

Do you dare to jump from one side of the building to another without protection? And it can give you a long run, even without a run, most people can jump more than a meter on standing, right?

Why don't you dare to jump?

It's because I'm afraid of the 1 in 10,000 chance.

Ye Kai's feeling now is that he is going to cross that meter. A 300-meter-tall building can make the difference between life and death. And at this moment, here, can Ye Kai cross the meter in his heart?

Is it to be a brave person, or to continue to bury the shadows and never go near the sea again?

There may be a third possibility, even if you have the courage to ride this wave, you are still afraid of the ocean.

Dinan was not a psychiatrist.

However, Ye Kai thought of Australia's national emblem at this time, the kangaroo.

This creature never takes a step back in its life, it is always forward, forward, and forward. This is also the spirit that Australians are proud of, and it is also the spirit that Ye Kai needs to learn now.

"Ahh Dinan said.

The waves were coming soon, and the wind was already blowing a long ripple on the surface of the sea. It is now gathering momentum at the bottom of the sea like a snowball, and if it erupts, it will surely swell in a matter of seconds.

At that time, it was too late to chase the waves.

Ye Kai gritted his teeth tightly, lay on the surfboard and waved his stiff arms, and slowly swam forward.

At the critical moment, the muscles are really more powerful than the brain.

When Ye Kai was still panicking, his body movement became more flexible.

He became more and more proficient, and soon came to the front of the wave, when the wave lifted the surfboard slightly. Ye Kai put his hands on the surfboard and stood on it in the most standard posture.

"Come on!" shouted Dinan.

The wave finally got up, and a huge force suddenly surged out of the water, quickly pushing Ye Kai's surfboard forward. The wave got higher and higher, and soon reached a limit height of six meters.

Under the action of this wave, Ye Kai also began to surf at different heights with the strength of the wave.

At this time, Ye Kai had no time to think about other miscellaneous things.

He only had one thought now, and that was to rush this wave like this. The sea is dangerous, of course, but wait until you get out of the waves safely before you think about whether it is dangerous or not.

In fact, when Ye Kai was terrified to the extreme, his mind became clear.

Just like when he met the shark in Saipan, Ye Kai was so frightened by the shark that his limbs were weak, and he almost forgot to breathe, and he was also terrified to the extreme at that time, and finally a chill came to his mind, and he woke up instantly.

It's the reward of the Jokhang Temple.

Ye Kai thought calmly.

After all his attention was concentrated, Ye Kai felt that the time around him began to slow down, and the surroundings became quiet, which could be said to be silent. The sound of the waves and Dinan's cheers were inaudible.

He is now surfing in the direction of the waves, at 90 degrees.

Before the waves catch up with Ye Kai, this way is the most comfortable to surf.

What psychological shadows, what mental illnesses, all become ineffective in the face of skills, and the treatment of the best psychologists comes quickly, and the effect begins in 1 second.

It will only have such an effect when the fear in his heart reaches the extreme, which makes Ye Kai want to complain.

Is this what is not broken, not standing, breaking and then standing?

However, it is precisely because of this skill that Ye Kai once again felt the fun and happiness brought by surfing.

First of all, you must know that there is something in us, called dopamine.

You can understand it as a happy nerve signal, and whenever you laugh and feel happy, it's actually your body's dopamine that's at work.

And after playing extreme sports, the body also produces a lot of dopamine, which will make us feel happy and satisfied.

So it's just-

Extreme sports, addictive.

When the waves behind him were about to catch up with him, Ye Kai turned and slid towards the corner of the waves.

The waves several meters high fell and hit the water, and in addition to making a loud noise, they also hit white waves more than ten meters high.

This wave has been exhausted and is rapidly declining.

The tumbling waves soon approached Ye Kai, and behind him the waves had already taken on an O-shape, and the waves behind him fell to the surface of the water with strong potential energy, leaving a space with a diameter of two meters in the middle.

This is called a pipe wave.

Ye Kai was now surrounded by water on all sides, as if he had entered a time tunnel, only there was an exit in front of him, and there was no other way out. Ye Kai had to rush out of the hole in front of him to be called successful.

He pressed his right hand against the wall of water on his right, feeling the cold touch of the water rushing across his fingers, and at the same time controlling the surfboard better under his feet.

The most important thing when rushing to a big wave is to have a clear idea, you must plan the route in advance, and before turning, you must take into account the consequences of your turning in this direction, which requires a lot of computing power.

And Ye Kai, who was concentrating on surfing, heard a donkey-like cry at this time.

He almost thought he was having auditory hallucinations, but soon, Ye Kai found two penguins in the water to his right, as if they were going to have a game with Ye Kai.

Shouted towards Ye Kai.

It turns out that the sound of a penguin is like this, it really looks like the call of a donkey.

But who would dare to swim with you?

Ye Kai ignored them, drove the surfboard towards the edge of Guan Lang, and finally drove out before Guan Lang was completely closed. Surfboards cross the waves.

With the remaining bit of power, Ye Kai flew into the sky with the board.

Then he laughed and fell into the water, choking on a long mouthful of water.

The fear of the ocean is finally over.

Dinan swam over and asked, "What's wrong?"

"Thank you, Dinan. ”

Seeing the expression on Ye Kai's face, Di Nan also smiled and said, "I can't see a surfing genius die under my nose, you're okay now, are you?"

"yes, I even want to play a little longer!"

“on。 Dinan quickly vetoed, saying, "We're going to have to get our own camp, do you want me to set up two tents by myself and make a fire to cook?"

Ye Kai pondered for a moment and said, "That...... What's not to do?"

“。 ”

Dinan held out his middle finger in disdain.

But it was almost dark, even if Ye Kai really let Di Nan do all the preparations alone, it would be too late to get all this done before dark, so Ye Kai also accompanied Di Nan back to the beach to set up camp.

The two worked together, with Dinan staying in the camp to set up a tent, while Ye Kai went into the forest to collect some dry firewood to make a fire. Dinan brought a lot of fast canned food with him, and some raw meat on the car that he could use as kebabs.

People are in good spirits when they are happy, and the skill called "calmer heart" is really a magic skill in a sense.

Ye Kai's mind has already evolved twice.

Maybe after this time, Ye Kai can get closer to the point where Mount Tai collapses in front of him and his face does not change, right? When Ye Kai thought of this word, he suddenly thought of having no desire and no desire.

Could it be that the end result of the evolution of this skill is to make me have no desires?

Terrible.

But no matter how you say it now, it's just a guess, Ye Kai hasn't reached that kind of point yet, and he is scared of his own guess to the point where he can't take care of himself.

So he put this speculation aside and carefully searched the forest for dry wood to burn.

Most of the trees in the forest are not easy to burn, and Ye Kai must carefully identify whether they can be burned before picking them up and holding them in his arms.

Since he spotted a spider, he had examined the branches more closely to see if there were any poisonous spiders hiding on them. Ye Kai was not afraid of snakes or scorpions since he was a child, but he was afraid of this thing.

With many eyes and feet, poisonous fangs and webs, photos of spiders have always been Ye Kai's childhood shadows.

After finding a large bundle, Ye Kai estimated that it should be enough, so he turned around and walked towards the beach. When he came, he had been walking along the path where the car came, so it was good to follow the road when he went back.

In the sand, Dinan had already set up his tent.

Seeing Ye Kai coming back, Dinan said, "I've been waiting for you for a long time, hmm??? why did you bring so much?"

"Is it too much?" Ye Kai let go, and the branches fell to the ground with a clatter.

Dinan scratched his hair and said, "It's okay, you can open a few cans, let's eat some first." ”

There was beef in the can, luncheon meat, Ye Kai also found bread and ketchup, a few bottles of beer......

The flames rose.

The sun was setting, and the ocean was no longer blue, but a gradient of red, from orange-red in the distance to light red at the feet of the leaves.

Dolphins jumping on the calm sea.

Their figures are imprinted on the distant sunset, becoming a black silhouette in the red, which is wonderful.

Since he didn't bring a SLR, Ye Kai could only use his mobile phone to take pictures of this beautiful scene.

Ye Kai turned his head to the busy Dinan and asked, "What's the name of this beach?"

"I used to call this the Crescent Coast, but in fact there is no official name here, this coast is part of the forest, after all, it is too small. ”

Ye Kai understood.

Continue to sit on the beach and watch the sea.

It seems that every man has his own secret base when he is a child.

。