Chapter 459: Zhang Guanghang and Gu Li (4000 words)
Watching "Knowing Taste" is a very tiring thing.
Although Xu Cheng lives as a romance writer in his heart, the articles he writes are actually relatively normal, except for Jiang Feng's one that is completely off track, the others are normal food reviews. For example, Zhang Guanghang's is very normal, and even some of them return to Xu Cheng's style of writing food reviews in his early years, only writing about dishes and not people.
Jiang Feng thinks that it may be because Zhang Guanghang became famous too early, and even what he wrote has been written by other magazines. can't be written, for example, the part about Xia Muqi that even Xu Cheng didn't dare to speculate.
When Xia Muqi was still alive, he was always at the top of the celebrity chef list, with a high rank and a bad temper, and he was famous for not giving face to anyone. Now that he has passed away, he is still a respected old-timer, even if he is not virtuous or hopeful in front of him, no one dares to jump out and accuse him.
In the chef world, where inheritance is paid attention to, and the master-apprentice relationship is still as close as that of father and son, even Tong Deyan, who has always been known for his hot temper, does not dare to get involved in the big crime of talking about his predecessors.
may be precisely because of this, Zhang Guanghang's article seems a little bland, except for the impressive photos, there is nothing in the article that can make people memorable, and even the final summary and comment that should be very exciting is also very bland.
Mr. Zhang Guanghang is a little different from the traditional impression of a genius chef, and in my conversation with him, I found that he has a wide range of hobbies, and has nothing to do with cooking, but more like an artist. Unlike other chefs, who spend all day in the kitchen studying the dishes, he prefers to use his leisure time to enrich his life.
He had two masters, the late Lu cuisine master Mr. Xia Muqi, who taught him 10 years of cooking, and his father, a famous French chef who also served as the head chef of a three-Michelin-starred restaurant. Both of these masters are extremely old-fashioned and old-fashioned people, giving the impression of being kitchen idiots who can lock themselves in their houses and study a dish for months without going out. Mr. Zhang Guanghang did the opposite, living a very new and wanton life, which really surprised me.
Perhaps it is for this reason that his dishes are also very new and wanton, as I wrote above, the rosemary roast lamb chops I had the pleasure of tasting have a combination of Chinese and French feelings. This young talented chef is trying to change the world of chefs with his bold ideas and experiments, and he is trying to integrate the various techniques of Chinese cuisine into traditional French cuisine. This is undoubtedly an extremely bold innovation, and I believe that this talented chef, who has been carefully taught by the two masters, can surprise us diners who are full of expectations, and also surprise the kitchen world that has been quiet for a long time. ’
Although Xu Cheng has a high opinion of Zhang Guanghang, Jiang Feng believes that most people, especially ordinary diners, will not feel much after watching it.
Those French magazines blew Zhang Guanghang much more ruthlessly than Xu Cheng when they blew it, and any unrealistic words can be put up. The most talented young chef in a century, a genius chef who is rare in a thousand years, as long as he is bold, he can write anything.
Jiang Feng remembered that when he searched for Zhang Guanghang's information on the Internet, he also saw some reports that he was the new hope of the French chef industry, and that he was a genius who could lead French cuisine to a new glory, which was simply a killing.
Jiang Feng also wanted to be killed like this once.
After reading Zhang Guanghang's Jiang Feng, he silently turned to Gu Li's article, and compared with Zhang Guanghang's article, Jiang Feng found that Xu Cheng didn't seem to be very optimistic about Gu Li. Even if Gu Li won the championship, Xu Cheng still didn't think he could surpass his master Tan Wenyan.
In the end, the road of cooking is all about talent, everyone is very hardworking, and the hard work of talented people is often more useful than the hard work of ordinary people.
is not optimistic about Xu Cheng, Jiang Feng is even a little unhappy for Gu Li. He has a special and complex affection for every chef who appears in the recipe or in his memory, probably because he has seen their past, witnessed a part of their lives, and witnessed their dishes full of feelings.
Jiang Feng knew their past and their present, although he didn't know what had passed in between, he always wanted to subconsciously defend them.
If you insist on explaining this complicated mood, it may be - from the maintenance of the old father?
Jiang Feng has become more and more like a father since Ji Xia became an apprentice, and he always feels that Xia Xia has been secretly drinking carbonated drinks behind his back recently.
Jiang Feng carefully read the Gu Li chapter written by Xu Cheng again, and still felt a little uncomfortable.
'Mr. Gu Li is the biggest dark horse in this cooking competition, from not being favored to passing all the way to the final championship, everything seems unexpected but logical, so that I witnessed the whole process of the competition I have a feeling of watching martial arts when I was young.
Mr. Gu Li is also very in line with the image of some martial arts protagonists, learning from everyone, family history, his father is also a famous Su cuisine chef, but because of his mediocre talent, he has not been famous, even if he has worked in the famous restaurant Zhiweiju for decades, he is just an ordinary white case chef.
Of the four interviewers, Mr. Gully was the most reticent. Even though his own story is the most exciting and his experience is richer, it still takes me to ask questions and remind me to get a little bit of bits and pieces of information from his mouth, which really makes me experience the pain of interviewing reporters.
Mr. Gu Li has been studying with Master Tan Wenyan since he was 6 years old, until Master Tan Wenyan passed away due to illness, and has been learning cooking with him for more than ten years. Since Mr. Gully was so reticent, I had to ask many of my colleagues who had worked with him for several years, and in their eyes Mr. Gully was a nice, detached, taciturn but very kind man.
He came to the kitchen first and left the kitchen at the last every day, wearing the stars and the moon, and made unimaginable efforts. Anyone who has seen him make pastries must know very well that he is a very slow and steady chef, unhurried, very calm, and doing his best to do every step well.
Because of my personal hobby, I have watched many excellent white case chefs make pastries over the years, and Mr. Gully is the most comfortable one to watch. It's not like he's making you a delicate dish, it's more like he's showing you a little thing that is mundane in your daily life, natural, fluid, and unconsciously catches your eye. It's less like watching people cook, more like listening to a soft and soothing piece of music.
Mr. Gully was one of the first chefs I interviewed, and one of the most headstrong. This willfulness is not a derogatory term, on the contrary, I appreciate his willfulness. The other three chefs are all ordered by me first, and then they cook what they think they are good at. Only Mr. Gully refused my request to order food, and was only willing to make me two small snacks, which were the Ruyi rolls and the golden silk siu mai that I was going to write next.
Ruyi rolls and golden silk siu mai must be familiar to readers who have read the food reviews I wrote before, which are both Master Tan Wenyan's specialty dim sum. When Master Tan Wenyan was still alive, these two kinds of snacks were not unusual, and the price was also very close to the people, although the amount was small, but as long as you were willing to spend a little money, you could always taste it. It is precisely for this reason that I will inevitably be a little harsh when commenting on these two dim sums.
If the 100-point system is used as the criterion, I can barely score 80 points on the Ruyi paper. To be sure, the difficulty of making the rolls is not very high, only the cross-cut moire and the heat during frying test the skill. The rarity of the Ruyi Roll made by Mr. Gu Li is that the Ruyi Roll he made has the feeling of Master Tan Wenyan's Ruyi Roll back then, which is really something that no other white case chef has been able to do. Especially the crispy feeling at the moment when the teeth bite down after entering the mouth, it is the true inheritance of Master Tan Wenyan. If you want to relive the taste of the past, you may want to try this dish, I am sure you will not be disappointed.
If the wishful roll is just an ordinary snack of medium difficulty, then the golden silk siu mai can be called a ......
Xu Cheng's words and sentences were relatively simple when he wrote the Ruyi Volume, and it may be that when he wrote that paragraph, he had not yet been freed from the perspective of the bystander's narration that seemed to be writing the biography of others.
When it came to the description of the golden silk siu mai, Xu Chengcheng began to let go of himself, with strong personal characteristics - a large section seems gorgeous, but in fact it is useless, Jiang Feng feels that it is not even as good as the description of Jiang Junlian's composition, at least Jiang Junlian's composition looks quite delicious.
When Jiang Feng was watching, he even had a strange idea that the golden silk siu mai must be very expensive.
Looking at the photo of the golden silk siu mai on the side, Jiang Feng studied Xu Cheng's evaluation of Gu Li again.
My evaluation of these two dim sum dishes made by Mr. Gully is the same as that of his colleagues - calm, solid, and not brilliant. As a white case chef, he has very solid basic skills and patience beyond ordinary people, which is also destined to make his dim sum not disappoint every diner, but at the same time, it cannot surprise diners.
I love and appreciate chefs with their own personalities, because I believe that dishes are alive and different. But in Mr. Gu Li's dishes, I didn't see too many personal characteristics, more imitating his master Tan Wenyan.
I believe that if you are a loyal eater of Master Tan Wenyan, you must be ecstatic when you taste the dim sum made by Mr. Gully. These dim sum snacks are sure to evoke some fond memories of the past, but aside from these extra bonuses, the dim sum itself seems a bit unremarkable, and it's hard to see the potential of the masterpiece.
I also asked Mr. Gully himself about this question, and he didn't seem to have the idea of exploring his own culinary path. Mr. Gully said that he wanted to try to restore the lost dim sum recorded in the ancient books, just like his master, and that it was a lonely and difficult path, and I could only wish him all the best.
I also hope that he will have better dishes in the future, no longer limited to Mr. Tan Wenyan's teachings. ’
Jiang Feng, who seemed to react to something after reading it for the second time: ......
Although Xu Cheng's evaluation of Gu Li is not very positive, he has a lot of words!
Peeling out the description of the dishes in the middle, as well as some nonsense that some people don't get, Xu Cheng at the beginning and end is basically describing around the person Gu Li, which can be said to be three sentences that are inseparable from Mr. Gu Li, which makes people very impressed by Mr. Gu Li's 4 words after reading it.
Jiang Feng's article seems to be very long, but after reading it, careless readers may not remember who Xu Cheng's interview is with, whether it is Li Mingyi, Jiang Huiqin, or Chen's mother.
Jiang Feng suddenly felt that he had no position to hold grievances for Gu Li.
Being featured in "Knowing Taste" is in itself an affirmation of the chef, and most chefs won't mind even if the evaluation is not high.
As long as they can get on, it doesn't matter what Xu Cheng thinks of them.
Whether the strength is strong or not, you will know when you look at the celebrity chef directory.
The other three all got an interview for the real thing, and only Jiang Feng got a wonderful short story.
Jiang Feng, who realized the truth, almost fell into tears.
Jiang Feng silently closed "Zhiwei".
There seems to be a summary article of Taifeng Lou in the back, which was also written by Xu Cheng, but he doesn't want to read it anymore, anyway, there will definitely be no 4 words of Mr. Jiang Feng in it.
Jiang Jiankang, who had already started working, saw Jiang Feng close the magazine, thinking that he had finished reading it, so he beckoned him to come over and be lazy together.
Although they came to the back kitchen early, and it is not work time, they still have to steal if they are lazy.
Jiang Jiankang sat on a small bench, facing the cabinet and happily drinking ice Coke.
"Smash, have you finished reading?" Jiang Jiankang asked.
"I'm done. Jiang Feng was a little sad.
It's a story of 4 people, but he doesn't deserve a name.
"Wait a minute, your grandfather and third grandfather are here, you must read the last one to them, your grandfather and third grandfather are old, and they can't read the words in this book without reading glasses. Your grandfather doesn't wear reading glasses, and my dislike of reading is inherited from your grandfather, and he doesn't like to read either! I just don't know if your third grandfather has reading glasses, and I haven't seen them bring them before, eh, Xiaofeng, have you ever seen your third grandfather read the newspaper?" Jiang Jiankang deviated as he spoke.
"The last one, Dad, I have a bit of a lot of words, and it takes more than half an hour to read it all, right?" Jiang Feng felt that it was not good.
"It's not your one, it's the last one, about your grandfather and the third grandfather. You can go back and read it to your grandma, who loves to hear this kind of story. Jiang Jiankang raised his head and poured the last few drops of Coke from the can into his mouth.
"Talking about grandpa and third grandpa?" Jiang Feng was stunned for a moment, and randomly realized that Jiang Jiankang was referring to that article, and reopened the magazine by leaning on the cabinet.
quickly found the last one, which he thought was the overall summary of Taifeng Building that Xu Cheng had gifted with friendship.
Actually, the content of this article has little to do with the previous four interviews, but it just so happens that the producers of the dishes I want to introduce in this article are the two head chefs of the restaurant where Mr. Jiang Feng, Mr. Zhang Guanghang and Ms. Wu Minqi work. This restaurant is the cover of this issue of the magazine, and it is also the restaurant that reopened in Beiping in July last year, Taifeng Building.
......’