Chapter 287: Food Culture
Jiang Feng said: "Also, let me continue to introduce to you, crystal shrimp is a traditional famous dish, which belongs to Shanghai cuisine." It has been rated as "the first dish in Shanghai". The fragrance is overflowing, crystal clear, and the race is like a pearl. The main ingredients are shrimp and eggs. Stir-fried shrimp without any ingredients, a plate full of shrimp, bright and translucent, and soft and crispy. In the 40s, the celebrity chef of Jing'an Hotel in Shanghai introduced "stir-fried shrimp" from Cantonese and Fujian cuisine, and carried out reform and innovation in cooking skills. "Crystal shrimp" is on the table, the strange fragrance is overflowing, crystal clear, and the race is like a pearl.
White chopped chicken is a traditional dish in Shanghai. "When it comes to white chopped chicken, it is a small Shaoxing", which has become the mantra of many Shanghainese. Because "Little Shaoxing" is a selection of the famous "Three Yellow Chickens" produced in Pudong, Shanghai, with good quality and delicious taste, it has won the love of the majority of customers. "Little Shaoxing" has also become a prestigious restaurant in Shanghai, and white chopped chicken is a famous dish in Shanghai. The shape is beautiful, the skin is yellow and the flesh is white, the fat is tender and delicious, the taste is exceptionally delicious, and it is very delicious.
The prestigious Shanghai Songjiang sea bass, a classic dish of Shanghai cuisine, has always been regarded as a superior delicacy due to its delicious taste, delicate meat, and special cooking skills. It is said that Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty went down to the south of the Yangtze River, tasted the Songjiang perch, and named it "the first fish in the south of the Yangtze River", and since then Songjiang Mansion has paid tribute to the imperial court every year. In 1972, when former U.S. President Richard Nixon visited Shanghai, he tasted Songjiang sea bass. In 1983, the Jin Jiang Hotel in Shanghai held a Songjiang sea bass cooking performance in Hong Kong, which caused a sensation in the local Chinese and foreign people. It can be seen that Songjiang perch is regarded as a "treasure among fish" in ancient and modern China and abroad.
Babao hot sauce is a traditional famous dish in Shanghai, with bright color, fresh and spicy aroma. It is an improved version of stir-fried hot sauce. The "Eight Treasures Hot Sauce" is spicy and slightly sweet, and it is very flavorful, and it is very popular with diners. In the 40s, the chefs of the Tongyi Restaurant on Jiujiang Road referred to the cooking method of Shanghai's local dish "Family Portrait", poured a shrimp "hat" on the fried hot sauce, and adjusted and enriched the raw materials of the fried hot sauce, cooking with eight main raw materials such as shrimp, chicken, duck gizzard, pork leg meat, belly, Kaiyang, shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoot slices, etc., so it was called "Babao Hot Sauce". Later, some restaurants in Shanghai followed suit, and "Babao Hot Sauce" became widely spread.
Pickled Du Xian, which belongs to the special dishes of the Han nationality in the south of the Yangtze River, comes from Hui cuisine, and is now the local cuisine of Shanghai, which is a famous dish in Shanghai. The soup of this dish is white and thick, the meat is crispy and fat, and the taste is fresh and fragrant. Every spring, when bamboo shoots are on the market, people in Shanghai like to cook this delicacy. It is also one of the representative dishes in Hui cuisine, Suzhou cuisine and Hangzhou cuisine, this dish tastes salty and fresh, the soup is white and thick, the meat is crispy and fat, the bamboo shoots are crisp and tender, and the umami is strong. It is mainly a soup cooked with spring bamboo shoots and fresh and salty pork belly slices. "Pickled" means salted meat; Xian", that is, fresh meat (chicken, hooves, small ribs, etc.); "Tu" means to simmer over a small fire.
Fried river shrimp is a traditional famous dish in Shanghai, Jiangsu and Zhejiang. It is a treasure on the table, and it also enters the homes of ordinary people, and is suitable for family drinking. After the finished dish, the river shrimp is generally round, ruddy and shiny, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, salty, sweet and delicious, the entrance shell meat is separated, and the shrimp is eaten without leaving the marinade in the plate. "Fried river shrimp" is the most distinctive cooking style of the "Lao Zhengxing Restaurant" at the intersection of Shandong Middle Road and Nanjing East Road in Shanghai. After the finished dish, the river shrimp is generally round, ruddy and shiny, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, salty, sweet and delicious, the entrance shell meat is separated, and the shrimp is eaten without leaving the marinade in the plate.
Because of its white hibiscus and delicious crab roe, hibiscus crab bucket is very popular among people and has become a famous local dish with a long history in Shanghai. The area around Shanghai and Suzhou is also famous for "Yangcheng Lake Qingshui Hairy Crab", and in the 30s, the Shanghai area was generally boiled or steamed. In the late autumn season, restaurants, hotels, and delicatessens are listed to operate Qingshui hairy crabs. Later, people thought that it was too troublesome and unhygienic to peel by hand, so Shanghai's "Wang Baohe Restaurant", which is famous for its crab feast, had the chefs remove the crab meat and carefully cook crab dishes according to taste, such as "Jade Shrimp and Crab", "Crab Oil Tornado" and so on. Among them, "Hibiscus Crab Bucket" is very popular because of its white hibiscus and has become a special dish with a long history in Shanghai.
Shanghai smoked fish is a characteristic traditional dish with both color and flavor, which belongs to the Shanghai cuisine. This dish is charred on the outside and tender on the inside, and the taste is salty and umami. Before the Chinese New Year, every household in Jiangnan has to prepare a lot of cooked vegetables, or make them by themselves, or buy them outside, and a large plate of smoked fish is indispensable. Although the name of smoked fish has the word smoked, it is not actually smoked, but first marinated in soy sauce, then fried, and finally immersed in marinade. β
Jiang Feng took a sip of wine and continued: "Sister-in-law, these are the top ten famous dishes in Shanghai, I will take you here tomorrow." β
Jin Batian's saliva flowed out when he heard Jiang Feng finish talking about Shanghai's top ten famous dishes, and Jin Batian said: "There are so many delicious dishes, I'm looking forward to tomorrow's dinner!"
Jiang Feng said: "Babao duck is a famous dish in Shanghai, and it is best cooked at the Shanghai City God's Temple Owner's Restaurant, which is very popular with diners. Originally, the store only operated light dishes, and there were no famous dishes such as Babao duck and Babao chicken. It is said that in the 30s, a regular customer suggested that the restaurant should handle such dishes. At that time, the chef in the store did not know how to make this dish, so he went to the Da Hung Yun Hotel in the center of the city to buy an eight-treasure chicken and came back to imitate it, and steamed it with chestnuts, bamboo shoots, wrist liver, ham and other accessories. After cooking, the flavor is overflowing, and the chicken is tender and delicious, which is very popular with customers, and it will soon become famous all over the city. Later, they changed the Babao chicken to Babao duck, because the duck has a larger chest than the chicken, the skin and flesh are thin, and it is easy to steam. From that time until today, Babao Duck is more famous than Babao Chicken.
The uniqueness of this Babao duck lies in the fact that it not only uses high-quality ingredients such as scallops, ham, carpal liver, diced chicken, mushrooms, winter bamboo shoots, chestnuts, glutinous rice, shrimp, green beans, etc., but also changes the traditional operation method of Babao duck boneless, opens the back with the duck with dorsal bones, fills in the ingredients, buckles it in a large bowl, seals the cellophane, and then steames the method of basketing, so that the finished product is made, not only the fresh fragrance is particularly strong, but also the form is plump, the dish shape is beautiful, and then poured on the shrimp and green beans prepared with the original marinade of the steamed duck, so that the finished product is more colorful and has a unique style. 17
Glutinous rice and eight treasure duck, a famous dish of the Qing Dynasty court, was originally a special dish in Suzhou, Jiangsu. According to the record of Qianlong's southern tour of the first month of the 30th year of Qianlong, "Jiangnan Festival as usual meal bottom file", "on the 25th day of the first month, Suzhou weaving Pufujin glutinous rice duck, Wannian spring stewed meat, spring bamboo shoots and duck, bird's nest chicken shreds", among which "glutinous rice and eight treasure duck" was the most famous traditional dish in Suzhou at that time, and the Qing Dynasty "Diaoding Collection" and "Tongqiao Yiyi Lu" all recorded the "Eight Treasure Duck" dish and its preparation method. During the Qianlong period, it has become a famous dish in the court. β
Qingyan said: "Manager Jiang, then you can tell us the allusions to the origin of some of the dishes you know, so that we can also have a long insight." β
Jiang Feng said: "How dare you, I'll just tell you what I know." It is rumored that in 1940, a 16-year-old Shaoxing young man came to Shanghai for the first time, carrying a flat pole and basket to sell along the street for a living, and finally saved a sum of money to open a chicken porridge shop in the center of Shanghai. But at that time, Shanghai was full of hooligans, and from time to time they came to the store to eat and drink for nothing, and finally the chicken was thrown to the ground in a robbery. The young man of Shaoxing angrily put the chicken into the cold well water to rinse it, hoping that the hooligans would eat the ice chicken and have diarrhea. What people didn't expect was that the hooligans came back the next day respectfully, just wanting to eat the cold-washed chicken again! In this way, the "little Shaoxing" white-chopped chicken with ice water became the most famous home-cooked dish in Shanghai.
There is also a version that during the Tang Dynasty, in order to improve work efficiency, merchants also began to be enthusiastic about the mode of fast food, which is called "Suozhao", that is, the current door-to-door delivery. In order to make the dishes faster and tasty, merchants began to choose dishes with boiled and dipping sauce, and white chopped chicken naturally became one of the most popular.
The literati did not hesitate to praise the delicacy of the white chicken, the most famous of which is Li Bai's poem "The pavilion is very green wine, and the plate is full of golden chicken". It is not difficult to guess that the golden chicken that Li Bai, who is addicted to alcohol, is the best dish for today's wine. β
Jin Batian said: "This method of chopping chicken for white is too simple, that is, the chicken is cooked and then dipped in seasoning to eat, I feel that it is not as delicious as the roast chicken I eat now, this is also a famous dish?"
Jiang Feng said: "Batian, you can go with me tomorrow to taste it." β
Jin Batian said: "Are there any other allusions to other dishes? For example, the allusions to the names of Dongbo elbow and Wan Sanho. β
Jiang Feng said: "There are many poets who have praised Songjiang perch, "People come and go on the river, but they love the beauty of perch." Jun looks at a leaf boat, haunted by the turmoil. Fan Zhongyan, there is no memory perch in the east, and there is a nest bird in the south. "ββ Du Fu;"The frost falls on the Jingmen River, the trees are empty, and the sails are unharmed and hang in the autumn wind." This trip is not for the perch, since the love of the famous mountain into the moan. ""The hometown is back, and the year is over." "Before the perch leaves out of the reed leaves of the perch township, there is no money under the weeping rainbow pavilion." How short is the jade ruler bought, and the silver shuttle is straight and round. The white matter and black chapters are three or four points, and the thin scales and huge mouths are a pair of fresh. "ββYang Wanli;"Finely pound the fat and sell the fish, and the west wind blows the four cheek perch. The cedar is crispy and greasy, but there is nothing everywhere except Songjiang. "I bought four cheeks of sea bass, and opened a soup of beans." Recently, Zhang Han has no intention of coming out, and he will not wait for the autumn breeze to begin. These literati and writers have written poems praising sea bass, which shows that the taste of sea bass is very delicious. β
Qingyan said: "Seeing that you know so many poets' poems about sea bass, you must love sea bass very much?"
Jiang Feng said: "Yes, I like it very much. β
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