Extra 1: Xu Pigeon Ace actually didn't grunt (II)

"Jiang's ginseng soup is a very special sea cucumber dish, I have seen a lot of sea cucumber dishes, and I have eaten a lot of sea cucumber dishes made into soup, but there has never been a sea cucumber dish like Jiang's ginseng soup, from the method to the taste is so unique, so different. ”

"First of all, I would like to introduce you to the method of this dish, which is very unique, if you want to use stock in a normal dish, you will only use one type of soup, and this dish uses two different soups - broth and chicken broth. From the stewing of the two soups to the simmering of sea cucumbers, to the final removal of sea cucumbers and dicing, adding diced mushrooms and bamboo shoots, slow simmering to collect the juice and finally thickening, the whole process is nearly 12 hours. The ingenuity of the conception and the complexity of the steps of this dish will definitely squeeze into the top five dishes I have seen in my life. ”

"Even after a day, the experience of tasting this dish still lingers on the tip of the tongue. This is an excellent dish, as you can see from the picture next to it, with the blessing of Master Jiang Feng's excellent knife skills, the sea cucumber and clove mushrooms and bamboo shoots are full and the same size. After a long period of simmering and final thickening, this small and thick Jiang's ginseng soup seems to be covered with a layer of crystal light coat, and the taste is indescribable. ”

"Fresh, salty, tender, and smooth is the most intuitive feeling that this ginseng soup can give you. ”

"The freshness comes from the broth, the saltiness comes from the bamboo shoots, and the tenderness comes from the sea cucumber, I'm not sure about the slippery, but according to what I know about Chef Jiang Feng, this wonderful slip is likely to come from the final thickening. ”

"I have stressed many times before that sea cucumber is a tasteless dish that needs to be lifted by external objects, it is sandy and fishy, and the slightest carelessness of the chef will make it a terrible dish. When I was younger, I even wondered why so many chefs loved such a terrible ingredient, but it was only after seeing more that I gradually realized something. The beauty of some dishes is not the taste but the texture, the sea cucumber is tender and prickly, even if it is simmered for a long time, it will not be too soft and glutinous, and as long as the chef handles it properly, it can retain a part of the elasticity of the ingredients themselves. It's hard not to be a favorite of these chefs for such a nourishing and healthy ingredient with excellent texture, infinite possibilities and creative taste. ”

"And this ginseng soup has all the advantages that all the sea cucumber dishes I mentioned above may have, and it is impeccable in texture and taste. ”

"As a joke, when I tasted this ginseng soup, I even felt like I was tasting the seafood porridge that Master Jiang Feng spent more than ten hours carefully cooking. This is not sarcasm, let alone a counter-argument, believe me, if you have really tasted the porridge made by Master Jiang Feng himself, you will know what kind of compliment this is. ”

"Having said so much about Jiang's ginseng soup, let me talk about another dish of Chef Jiang Feng - Jinyu cabbage. ”

"At first glance, you don't think that this is a beautiful, magnificent, rich and gorgeous dish. Please turn back to the next page, and you may be disappointed to see the picture on the next page, because this is just an ordinary-looking, ordinary and homely stir-fried cabbage. ”

"It's really just a stir-fried cabbage. ”

"Although I didn't calculate the specific time on the table, as far as I can see, this dish does not take more than 5 minutes from the time the cabbage is put in the pot to the time when the dish is out of the pot. The steps are not much different from the ordinary stir-fried cabbage, the only difference is that this cabbage is poured into a pot of soup. ”

"A pot of sea cucumber and abalone soup that takes nearly 10 hours before and after adding some ingredients almost every once in a while, is waited by Master Sun Maocai almost all the time. ”

"I can't say for sure what the soup was because I didn't pay much attention to it throughout the race and didn't get a chance to taste it for myself. But I can probably guess that this shouldn't be a wonderful soup on its own. ”

"It's fishy. ”

"Unlike Jiang's ginseng soup, this soup completely exposes the fishy smell of sea cucumber, which is similar to and even better than many seafood. But it is this fishy smell that makes the golden jade cabbage. ”

"It's hard for me to put into words how I felt on the first sip because it was amazing. The cabbage's excellent ability to absorb flavor and lock in juice makes it fully absorb all the essence and shortcomings of sea cucumber and abalone soup in just a few minutes of stir-frying, fuse, and converge, and finally bring these essences, shortcomings and his own fragrance and tenderness together to become a new and wonderful taste. ”

"A disadvantage is a plus, and an advantage is a disadvantage. This is probably the most headache for me and the most difficult dish to write a review. It's delicious, it's delicious, it's unique, it's different from the kind of boiling cabbage, it's rich, and you'll be convinced as long as I write about it. Its delicious sword is on the edge and unique, and even if I tell you here, the fishy smell of sea cucumber and abalone will be a very wonderful taste after the fusion of cabbage, many people will not believe it, think that I am talking about it, and even think that I am old and my sense of taste has deteriorated, and the taste has become strange. ”

"But believe me, even if it's indescribable, it's a dish that will amaze you in your heart as soon as you eat it, and at the same time marvel at the same time you can't say anything but wow. ”

"Even if I think I've read a lot of books, accumulated a lot of words, and even memorized a lot of ancient poems over the years, I can't find the words to describe it. ”

"It's a delicacy, but in a different way, and you can't tell it, you can only experience it with your tongue. I would like to regret to add here that I am afraid that you will not have the opportunity to experience it, and even I don't know when and what month I will get the next experience. After the game, I asked Mr. Jiang Feng alone, and he said that Jiang's ginseng soup might one day be able to climb the recipe of Taifeng Building, but the golden jade cabbage is absolutely impossible, although it is a pity but it is understandable, this dish is indeed a bit too torturous to the chef. ”

"After talking about two Chinese dishes, let me spend some more time introducing these two new Western dishes of Chef Arnold - Nameless Soup and Nameless Chowder. ”

"Those who know Chef Arnaud should be well aware of his cooking style, which is a rare rough and original way of cooking. He rarely uses the expensive high-end ingredients that are common in Michelin-starred restaurants, caviar and foie gras are almost absent from his menus, fish is rarely involved, and gold leaf, which is more of a gimmick than a dish, is impossible. I've joked with someone who had to ask a Michelin-starred chef who had the best value for money, and it would be Chef Arnaud. Although his dishes are the most expensive, the cooking skills rather than the ingredients give people a wonderful sense of value for money. ”

"If I tell you about these two dishes that I am about to introduce, you will not believe them, in my opinion, two of the best dishes Chef Arnold has ever made. But it's true, it's unbelievable that such a world-renowned chef for his grilling and frying has two of his best dishes, stir-fried and stewed. ”

"Say it's two dishes, but in my opinion it's more of a combination. The core of both dishes comes from the same pot of soup, a pot of pure meat soup made from cheap whole chicken, pork, and beef. Although I just used the word cheap, it doesn't mean that all the ingredients are shoddy, on the contrary, they are all excellent meats, but they don't choose the best and most expensive cuts, and Chef Arnold doesn't choose the more expensive beef with a more delicate and beautiful distribution of snowflakes. ”

"This pot creates a two-course soup, and the preparation process is not as simple as ordinary stock, although there are no high requirements for sweeping the soup, but it is more demanding in mixing and filtering, and it is more challenging for the chef. At least as far as I can see, Chef Arnold spent nearly 10 hours simmering the soup by his side, preoccupied, and exhausted. ”

"I'm sure everyone will be curious about what kind of dishes will be used to make the soup that Chef Arnold has the patience to take care of for 10 hours. It seems that if it weren't for some of the delicate and expensive ingredients that everyone was amazed that they wouldn't be worthy of such a thick soup, in fact, these ingredients would indeed surprise everyone, because the nameless soup is actually a pot of vegetable soup. ”

"It's all common vegetables, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, carrots and other vegetables that are commonly found in soups. The taste of this soup is also very normal at first glance, and on the first sip, I even have the feeling that I am drinking the thick soup that my wife stewed for me. ”

"Of course, this is just an analogy, my wife's cooking is very bad, and it would be more appropriate to change it to my mother, but I think my wife's soup is a more appropriate adjective. ”

"This is a pot, the first sip will not make you feel how amazing, how delicious and delicious, but the drink is very warm, even like an ordinary happy story. In an ordinary poor family, the wife spent 10 hours carefully stewing a pot of vegetable soup for her husband, who worked hard outside the home. Although there are no precious ingredients, and there is not even a trace of meat in the soup, it can make people taste the delicious taste of this ordinary and eat the taste of home. ”

"If there is one dish that makes the warmest and most delicious food with the simplest and most rustic ingredients, it must be this dish. ”

"It's hard to believe that Chef Arnold's food would be so heartwarming, but it is, and don't be surprised first, because there's the next dish waiting for you. ”

"Nameless hodgepodge. ”

"It's an authentic chowder, and the raw material is all the soup residue filtered out of the pot of soup just now. After 10 hours of stewing, the original chicken, pork, beef, and even some small bones are all boiled and crushed, and it is impossible to tell what they are. Chef Arnold stir-fried this ball of chop over a fierce fire and accompanied by spices, the process is as simple and crude as that of golden jade cabbage, and the taste is also very simple and rough. ”

"It's a bit inappropriate, but it's a dish with a lot of charlatanism. ”

"It's hard to believe that a dish that makes it impossible for diners to tell what they're eating can be on a table at a high-end restaurant that seems more suited to shabby, greasy and even somewhat dirty stir-fry restaurants. Lively, noisy, noisy, steaming, full of people, three or two friends, a glass of cheap beer mixed with water, a delicious dish, a period of ordinary and fresh life. ”

"Although I can't understand, and I can't understand why all the dishes are famously expensive, even Chef Arnaud, whose name is synonymous with haute cuisine, is good at these two dishes that make ordinary dishes to the extreme. But as long as I think about the time it takes behind these two ordinary dishes, I suddenly feel that the ultimate ordinariness is actually a luxury. ”

"Jiang's ginseng soup, golden cabbage, nameless soup and nameless chowder are four different dishes, each with its own characteristics, and the only thing in common may be that it is extremely complex and delicious. The dishes presented by Chef Jiang Feng and Chef Arnold in the final embody two extremes of deliciousness. ”

"Chef Jiang Feng's two dishes are luxurious and expensive, and even the home-style golden and jade cabbage needs to be served with sea cucumber and abalone soup. Chef Arnold's two dishes are ordinary and life, they are like two ordinary dishes that everyone can make and everyone can make. (although they are unusual)"

"At first, I contacted the editor-in-chief and told him to hurry up and urge other food critics to submit their manuscripts, because he was surprised when Zhiwei was about to be published in the next two days. Maybe it's because he didn't think that I would let "Zhiwei" publish normally this year, and he didn't expect me to suddenly rush so much. In fact, before this game, I didn't expect that I would be so proactive in writing this article and so proactive in asking for the publication of "Zhiwei". ”

"I found that over the years I had walked into a misunderstanding, a misunderstanding that had been created by my arrogance and arrogance. When I was young, I was full of passion and passion for food, and with a camera, a pen, a notebook and a backpack, I dared to travel the world to find and taste different delicacies in various places, no matter how high or low, whether the price was high or not, I was full of curiosity and reverence. ”

"But as I got older and as my reputation in the industry grew, I lost that passion and my reverence for food. To this day, I don't remember how many years I haven't been like when I was younger, just because of a rumored word from someone, I carried a backpack and traveled thousands of miles to the mountains and rivers, just to taste the mysterious delicacy that I didn't know existed. ”

"I was even so arrogant that I was moved by the fact that there was nothing delicious in this world. I lost the most basic reverence for food, and gradually felt that every food was commonplace, even if it was a masterpiece of masters and masters, it was just an ordinary and delicious dish. ”

"In this regard, I feel that I need to learn from my friend Mr. Han. He is the same age as me, and in the early years he traveled all over the world to taste food, but to this day he has a great longing, enthusiasm and even respect for food. He will, like every ordinary moment, go to Taifeng Building on time every day to check in and grab the food, and he will be annoyed if he can't grab the food, and he will even send me WeChat to show off. Before, I laughed at him as if he hadn't eaten food, had never seen the world, but now I seem to be the one who should be laughed at, I have eaten food, but I haven't really eaten. ”

"This four-course meal woke me up like a stick. There are still many unknowns in this world, and mysterious delicacies are worth exploring, and I thought I had read them all, but only because I was shallow. Whether it is high-end luxury, or ordinary and cheap, it has its merits and its wonders. ”

"So, I made a big decision. From this year onwards, "Knowing Taste" will be reinstated as its previous monthly magazine. I will do the same as when I was young, and I will go through the places that I have not walked and the places that I have not looked for. I hope that "Knowing Taste" can be the same as before, a hundred flowers bloom and compete for beauty, and I can be the same as before, always enthusiastic and always in awe. ”