Chapter 181: Cutting Ice Steps, Advancing to 6900!(Ask for a subscription, ask for a monthly pass!)

National team.

Inside the lounge.

A group of mountaineers talked about it, talking about the scene that had just happened!

For them, who often use the ascender to level up the ice wall, it is really hard to imagine why this person can walk on the ice wall smoothly with only some relatively basic equipment!

Incredible!

It's incredible......

"How did he do it?"

"That's amazing!"

"What is the origin of this Lu Yu?"

"I don't know, but it's really a cow!"

"I'll ......"

In the previous life, French ice climbing technology was relatively advanced modern ice climbing technology.

It minimizes the exertion of the climber.

Improve climbing efficiency.

There are two very different ways to travel with a full set of technologies.

One is the flat step.

One is the forward kick type.

At present, after a period of rising, the slope of the ice wall is more than 45 degrees, and the ice layer is gradually hardening, so Lu Yu gave up the flat step style of Fa Pan.

Instead, a "forward kick" was used to travel on the ice wall!

Forward kicking, as the name suggests, is to kick the ice wall with your toes, using the tip of the crampons to bite the ice.

Compared to the flat step, the forward kick is more difficult to control the center of gravity.

However, because he has mastered mountaineering skills, during the climbing, Lu Yu can still make the crampons tip bite the ice surface just right.

When shifting the center of gravity, the feet remain stable.

These details don't seem like much.

But without the help of ropes and ascenders, this way of traveling will not last long if you don't have a strong physical foundation.

After crawling forward for a while, Lu Yu half-prostrate on the ice wall, took a breath and said:

"It's a self-created ice climbing technique that can adapt to a wide range of ice slopes, saving time and effort. ”

"There are two ways to do this, one is a flat step and one is a forward kick. ”

"There are two basic techniques used to climb a lot of ice walls, depending on the steepness of the slope, the condition of the ice, your technical ability and your confidence. ”

"In addition to the way you travel, it's important to be bold when working with snow and ice, and try to keep your attention focused on the climb itself. Of course, boldness does not equal recklessness. It is a kind of self-confidence, a skill, which can only be obtained through long-term training and increasing the length and difficulty of training. ”

"Ice climbing requires tireless enthusiasm!"

Tireless enthusiasm!

That's right.

Ice climbing requires passion!

Because it's an exhilarating sport that combines a constantly changing object to climb with a chilly environment that challenges your body and mind in all aspects!

Only in this way will the climber be able to conquer glacier after glacier and stand at the apex of that desire.

As the altitude steadily increased, the temperature around us was approaching minus 15 degrees.

The wind and snow are also getting heavier.

The ice beneath your feet is getting harder and harder.

It takes a lot of force for crampons and ice axes to embed freezing points suitable for climbing.

One comes and goes, and the physical exertion is great.

At the current speed, it will take at least two hours to climb to 7,000 meters.

The premise is that there are no accidents in between, otherwise the time will be doubled.

Because the ice was too hard, the effect of the crampons began to be limited, and in order to prevent himself from falling from a height of 6,800 meters, Lu Yu had to stop!

Against the wind and snow, he faced the camera and gasped: "The ice here is so hard that it's unimaginable!"

Snorting and snorting, Lu Yu raised his toes and kicked hard at the ice wall, stabilizing his center of gravity: "You need to work harder than usual to bite into the crampons." ”

"It's not a lot for a short time, but if it's a long time, the crampons' serrations can break at any time. If it suddenly fails during the climb, the consequences are really unimaginable!"

"So, I've got to figure out a way to fix this......"

For the earliest alpine climbers, ice slashing was the only technique available when climbing steep ice and hard snow.

Simple to equip and easy to operate, in ancient times when there were no crampons, cutting ice steps was the most commonly used primitive technique for human ice climbing.

With a wave of the ice axe in his hand, Lu Yu kept tapping on the ice with it, as if he was looking for something.

"It's not bad here. ”

After choosing a position, he knelt on the ground and slammed the ice as he said:

"After the crampons were invented, many climbers hardly used the 'ice step' technique, but at some point, the ice step was still a very useful technique. ”

"Especially when you hit hard ice or if your crampons fail!"

"Now, I'm going to cut a step here to lighten the load on my crampons. ”

There are roughly two ways to cut ice steps.

The first is an ice scale that runs parallel to the ground.

Use the flat head of the ice axe to slash horizontally.

It is mostly used in snow.

The second is a little more complicated and is perpendicular to the ice surface.

Using the beak of an ice axe, dig out steps that look like small grids.

To be on the safe side, on steep ice, it is better to use the second method, which guarantees maximum serration of crampons, complete depth.

After having a plan, Lu Yu first used a mountaineering rope to lassoscope a very exposed black-brown rock, and then pierced the end into the figure-eight ring to make it drag his body.

He then fastened the ice axe to his wrist with a wristband.

Doing so will help support the hand that is working and avoid losing the axe if you miss.

"That's where the wristband comes in handy, it's a great way to avoid swinging the ice axe out when you cut the ice steps, don't think it's a trivial matter, if you really lose the ice axe, you'll be left on this ice wall forever. ”

Rediscovering the rhythm of his progress, Lu Yu cut out the ice steps on the ice wall and slowly ascended.

About half an hour later, the altitude reached a new high, and finally reached 6,900 meters.

In the darkness, the summit of the North Col Ice Wall finally appeared in front of me.

It was a huge, 90-degree vertical wall of ice!

"Continue upwards and you'll find the last stretch of the North Col ice wall. ”

"The wind and snow are getting heavier and the visibility is getting lower and lower, I don't know if you can see it clearly. This section of the road is really steep, almost close to 90 degrees, and even with ropes, it will dissuade most climbers. ”

Wielding an ice axe, Lu Yu chiseled two small depressions in his hand.

Then he grabbed it with his hand, stuck it to the ice, and breathed wildly.

The ice walls are like mirrors, and you can almost see your own face.

Raising his head, Lu Yu glanced up again, and said after a while: "This is the environmental demarcation line of Mount Everest, there is a huge difference between 7,000 meters and 7,000 meters, the most intuitive feeling is that the wind will become stronger, and the temperature will break through minus 20 degrees, which is definitely beyond your imagination......

Staring intently at the peak, Lu Yu adjusted his mentality and prepared to continue to set off.

But in the next second.

The top of the ice wall seemed to be boiling all of a sudden!

Immediately afterward, countless snowfalls, like crazy, erupted from above, and poured into the sky!