The ancient town of Zhang Baotong floating on the water 2018.8.9

I heard that Penglai Wonderland is the most beautiful in the world, and later I learned that Penglai Wonderland is just an illusion, an ethereal and independent of the world, a mirage wonder. Last year, I went to a mysterious but not unreal place, called a gem set in the water. It is the ancient town of Danzhou on the Liujiang River.

Danzhou Ancient Town, located in the Rongjiang River and surrounded by water, has been drifting on the water for more than 400 years. There is still no bridge in this ancient town, and the only way to enter the ancient town is to cross the river by boat. There are no motor vehicles or roads on the island, and there are paddy fields, woods, farmhouses, monuments and dirt roads everywhere, the streets are narrow and sparsely populated, peaceful and quaint, away from the hustle and bustle. People wear simple and old clothes, do primitive and simple labor, and it is a dreamy scene of paradise.

I drove from Sanjiang County to the riverside, and there was a house by the river. We stood under the eaves and waited for a boat ride across the river. However, when I looked at the river, the rain and fog on the river were thick, and the rain was so heavy that I couldn't see the ferry at all. We had to wait in the rain. July is the rainfall season in the region. The rain was so heavy that it continued for several days, and the water of the wide river continued to rise, overflowing one of the dikes in the river. The ancient town of Danzhou itself is surrounded by mountains and rivers, and there are artemisia bamboo, willow trees and banyan trees planted along the river. The river beach is covered with large expanses of aquatic plants. Aquatic plants drifted in stacks and clumps by the swollen river, looking like they were about to be submerged.

After a while, the boat came, a wooden boat that could carry dozens of people. We braved the rain to get on the boat and sailed on the wide river. Came to the shore of Green Island and entered the town. We started to take a tour and visit along the way. The town is simple and tranquil, tranquil and quiet, no motor vehicles, no commercial atmosphere, no hustle and bustle, only antique gatehouses, city walls, academies, guild halls, only vicissitudes of ancient buildings and courtyards, as well as many relics and monuments of the Ming and Qing dynasties such as the ancient county yamen and the Chenghuang Temple. Everywhere you go, there are signs of farming, and what you see is the charm of the ancient city that makes people feel endless.

By noon, the rain had stopped, and the fresh rain mist slowly drifted away from my eyes. The streets were washed clean by the rain. The streets are very narrow, and the buildings and houses on both sides are very characteristic of old houses. The brick houses with red lanterns hanging high are quite ancient, and the long winding bluestone road is clean and tidy, and many bluestone slabs have been stepped on to become indented. The street, which is less than 2 meters wide, is both the main road of the village and the market of the town. Many families use small buildings to open shops. But these shops are selling homegrown vegetables, bacon and pomelo. You can see many houses hanging bacon and bacon in front of their doors, setting up home-brewed wine, and holding golden and fragrant grapefruit in bamboo baskets to attract tourists from afar. The streets are sparsely populated and people dressed in very simple and old clothes. Some middle-aged and elderly people are sitting in front of the door selling goods while doing household chores. Only a few children were running back and forth in the streets. Seeing this, people feel like they have returned to the Republic of China period.

Out of the street, I walked on a narrow and silent path, but the road was muddy and slippery. I accidentally followed the path and entered a quaint and chic courtyard. The scene in the courtyard is like the big family in the Ming and Qing dynasties in the movie, with a two-story attic, heavy ridges and high eaves, a wooden platform on the top, and a blue brick doorway on the bottom, spacious, heavy, simple and quiet, and dilapidated. However, the courtyard does not hide the richness and dignity of the past, and with the erosion of the years, it adds a strong sense of tranquility and comfort. Here, you can unload the fatigue and rush of the daily life, and return to the most real and scattered time.

Danzhou is known as an ancient town floating in the water, and the water is naturally the charm of the ancient town. The ancient town faces the river on three sides, surrounded by water on all sides, with a total area of 239.61 square kilometers, a forest coverage rate of 67.3%, and only one natural village in the whole town, with more than 1,000 villagers, which can be described as a forgotten back garden. This small island town isolated in the middle of the river has no roads and bridges, and must be entered by ferry. It is said that the local government had intended to build a bridge to make the moat a thoroughfare. However, it was unanimously opposed by residents, claiming that "once there is a bridge, there will be no Danzhou". Yes, without the bridge, Danzhou would have less prosperity and disturbances, maintain a simple peace and tranquility, and continue to sleep in that ancient and meandering dream. This makes us deeply feel the simplicity of the town, because of the simplicity of the villagers. If the folk customs are simple, where can the simplicity of the town come from?

Time has engraved memories on the mottled ancient brick walls, and today's thoughts tell the memories of the past. Standing on the city wall and looking down, the ancient town looks like a forgotten village. The remnants of the walls and ancient buildings are deserted in the rain and mist, and the houses are scattered haphazardly on both sides of the street, and there are green woods and vegetation everywhere. Walking into this mottled town for thousands of years, removing the layers of rain and fog in front of you, looking up, the distant mountains are hazy, the air is fresh, and the breath of history is ancient and vicissitudes slowly drifting in the air after the rain, so that people can vaguely see the past situation and old appearance of the ancient town. "The land is flat, the houses are like that, and there are good fields, beautiful ponds, and mulberry bamboos. Qianmo traffic, chickens and dogs smell each other. Among them, the men and women are dressed like outsiders. Yellow hair hangs down and is happy. Ask what the world is today, but I don't know if there is a Han, regardless of Wei and Jin. In fact, the residents of the island are still not closed day and night, and the road is not lost, which is known as today's "paradise". In November every year, the pomelo is ripe and full of pomelo fragrance. Sha Tin pomelo is a local specialty, with a sweet and refreshing fruity taste and a sweet honey aroma. Tasting the sweet Sha Tin pomelo and visiting the quiet and quiet Jiangzhong Ancient Town will make you feel like you can enjoy the idyllic beauty of the infinite scenery.

The ancient town is full of broken historical fragments, showing the loneliness and desolation of the world. In the sky after the rain, a fresh breeze blows, blowing the fallen leaves of thoughts in the air. Immersed in the quaint and tranquil paradise, immersed in the distant and vague thoughts, we can't help but wonder what kind of life we are pursuing? For many years, we have been pursuing wealth, but will wealth make us happy? We see how many people who have become rich and noble, but they are obsessed with Danzhou Town, obsessed with its simplicity and tranquility, infatuated with its leisurely and calm, and even infatuated with its light wind and strong tea and wine. Yes, people have long been lost in the rolling red dust, and only by being silent in this antique atmosphere can they travel through time and space, return to the basics, and find the belonging of their hearts. It's like when we get lost in the journey of life, but we meet ourselves here and find ourselves again.

The ancient city is relic, the history is rushed, the river is flowing, the pomelo forest is pieced, the time is infinite, and the years are good. Where is there still this simple and remnant memory, where is there still this tranquility far away from the hustle and bustle?

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