The saury is also called mackerel, swordfish, wangyu, etc., and its body length is flat like a knife. The color is as pure as silver, and the shape is like a sharp knife out of the sheath, so it is called a knifefish. It is about 20 centimeters long, silvery-white, the sea is raw, every spring, the saury goes up the Yangtze River in groups, near the port of Tianjin, forming a fish flood.

The saury, anchovy and puffer fish are also known as the "three fresh fish of the Yangtze River", all of which come from the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, and all three are seasonal migratory fish. Every spring, come at the point, leave at the point, it is never an exaggeration to say that it is "delicacies".

In the "Three Fresh Foods of the Yangtze River", wild anchovies have been extinct in the last century, and the anchovies eaten today are all artificially farmed. And the longest time you can eat puffer fish and saury every year is less than a month in Qingming. After Qingming, the meat becomes old and the bones become hard, and connoisseurs will not eat it again. Nowadays, breeding is thriving, and the puffer fish is still good to feed - the puffer fish will swell its body into a ball when it is in distress, and it can be used as a ball to kick, which shows the tenacity of vitality. The saury is extremely expensive, it will die when it leaves the water, and it is even more difficult to breed, so it can be said to be the most respected of the three.

The ancient poem has a cloud "pull out the thorn silver knife just out of the water, fall the flowers and fragrant fish fat", the local literati also said that "the puffer fish is ashamed of poison, the river bass is ashamed of the taste", and Mao Sheng personified it during the Five Dynasties period, "the appearance is clear, the material is extremely beautiful and handsome, and it is appropriate to give the bone to the Qingqing", thinking that the river knife is just like the delicate "Bai Gui Fuzi", so that the river knife is not only a kind of fresh fish, but also has more wind and feelings in it.

The saury is divided into three kinds: "river knife", "sea knife" and "lake knife", among which the river knife is the most expensive.

The white Audi is flowing in the evening rush hour in Jingang City, the family is in the car, Zhang Ruiming is driving very slowly, and the time of reunion seems to be touchable, like a warm yellow birthday cake, which makes people warm and intoxicated.

Wife Tang Shi and Zhang Ruiming have not seen each other for a few months, when they were in Dongjiang, his wife's heart was as hard as iron on the phone, and she couldn't stand Zhang Ruiming's coaxing a few times when they met, and the warmth of the two came back, which shows that distance is the most important factor affecting feelings.

"Dad has been anxious to count the day you come back these days, for fear that you will miss the season of eating saury, in fact, he has already scheduled the fish, but he has always said that he will wait for you to come back to eat. ”

"Hey, I'm waiting for him, I'm ...... Wait for him to come back and pay. Zhang Qingcang was still not used to directly expressing his feelings for his son, so he quickly touched his nose and said.

In front of his family, Zhang Ruiming was a wooden head, and he said incomprehensibly with his wife: "How can I have so much money, I still have to rely on my father, the big boss, I can't afford this saury, so I can only help eat it." ”

"You're such a nerd......"

The family has been fighting and making trouble in this way, and the business has been busy in the past few years, and Zhang Qingcang's family rarely returns, let alone taking the family out to eat saury, and his wife Tang Shi is also the first time to eat this nearly 10,000 yuan and a pound of river knife, which feels very strange. I thought it would be a super luxury restaurant like Diaoyutai State Guesthouse and Beihu No. 9, but when I arrived at the location, I looked incredulous.

"Isn't this just an ordinary vegetable market? ”

Zhang Ruiming came to his father a few years ago, knew the reason inside, and said with a snicker: "You don't know this, this river knife is comparable to gold, and only 29 licenses for saury fishing in the Yangtze River are issued every year in the country! Only these 29 fishermen and companies are qualified to catch knifefish, so ordinary people can't receive it at all, but fortunately, my father has a big face, and he knows a master here, and he helped keep a few real river knives at the first time." ”

It is rare to be praised by his son, Zhang Qingcang smiled proudly, and said: "This year, Lao Zhao helped me keep a few about 3 taels, hum, ordinary people go to the Diaoyutai State Guesthouse, even if they order, it is also about 2 taels of small knives, we eat more than 3 taels of big river knives today, 5 will cost me nearly 30,000 yuan! The most important thing is to understand the river knife, otherwise, you may not be able to eat 300,000 yuan in other places!"

Tang Shi was speechless, he didn't expect this fish to be so expensive, and he was secretly glad that his father-in-law paid for it, otherwise he really couldn't afford to let the little two take it out.

And Zhang Ruiming, who was next to him, saw that the sycophants worked, and secretly gave his wife a smug look.

"Hey, Lao Zhao!" Zhang Qingcang led his family through the filthy vegetable market, found a small shop that didn't look amazing, and shouted to a middle-aged master with messy hair around a bib and a jade stream in his mouth.

"Yo, Mr. Zhang, here. ”

Then Master Zhao led everyone into a shop in the store, and when he walked through the low aisle, Tang Shizheng thought to himself that this shabby-looking shed, what to eat was boring, and suddenly his eyes lit up, and he was faced with a bright moon!

This vegetable market is set up along the river, through the river bank is crossed, at this time the river wind hits, the cold wave of early spring has just passed, the vitality of all things is recovered, in this month under the river bank, particularly charming.

Zhang Ruiming picked up his daughter Xuanxuan and wanted to take advantage of the moonlight to teach her a few ancient poems.

"Starry Plains and Broad ......"

"The Moon Surges the Great River"

Unexpectedly, her daughter didn't need him to teach, so she naturally read out the next sentence, and Xuanxuan's immature voice read this imposing poem, which was unique.

Zhang Ruiming glanced at his wife gratefully, in the past few years, he has devoted himself to his work, and his daughter's education is basically dependent on his wife, Tang Shi has cultivated his daughter's good habit of reading alone, as a father, he has done too little, and he owes his wife too much for this.

Zhang Qingcang was taking a knife fish handed over by Master Zhao at this time, and was about to use the moonlight to carefully check whether it was an authentic river knife. He looked carefully, and was worried that Master Zhao next to him would laugh at him for being suspicious, so he called Zhang Ruiming next to him to come over, and under the pretext of teaching his son to appreciate the swordfish, he carefully checked the "live gold" in his hand.

"You see, the head and eyes of this saury are white, and if it is a lake knife, the chin will be slightly red......"

Zhang Ruiming didn't know his father's thoughts, so he could only nod silently beside him.

"This river knife is not fat, the whole body is streamlined, if it is a lake knife, a sea knife, the belly is obviously hypertrophied......"

Tang Shi next to him, seeing what the two fathers and sons were talking about, said curiously: "Is there really such a big difference between this sea knife and the lake knife?"

"That's for sure, the lake knife is thorny, the sea knife is bitter, a pound is only a few hundred yuan, only the river knife is the first fresh in the Yangtze River!"

Zhang Qingcang finally finished the inspection, carefully took it back to Master Zhao, and asked him to take it according to the most professional method - steaming.

A few people sat down by the river, and not long after, Lao Zhao came over with a large pot of made saury.

As soon as it came up, Tang Shi took a breath first, "It's so fragrant!" This knife fish is fragrant, completely different from the fragrance of any ingredients in previous memories, fat white and delicate, before moving the chopsticks, Tang Shi swallowed a few mouthfuls of saliva first.

Master Zhao stood aside and introduced: "The knife fish does not use a knife to break the chamber, but uses chopsticks to reach into the gills of the fish to roll out the fish intestines, which can keep the body of the fish intact. Put two shallots, two ginger slices, and then drizzle with some lard, and then go into the steaming box, such a steamed saury is the most delicious. ”

Tang Shi picked a piece first, and in one bite, the meat was very delicate, with a lot of fine fat evenly distributed among the fish, and the word "melt in the mouth" was completely tailor-made for this river knife!

What's even more amazing is that a memorable fragrance rushes straight to the brain, which is a special fish fat aroma that has always had an endless aftertaste, which is simply lingering in the body.

"It's delicious!"

Just as Tang Shi was exclaiming, Zhang Qingcang on the side silently put down his chopsticks, looked at Master Zhao with a gloomy face, and said, "Old Zhao, I've known each other for thirty years, and you actually used a sea knife to trick me!"

…………

This sudden change made the atmosphere weird, Tang Shi looked at his father-in-law puzzled, obviously delicious?

"Mr. Zhang, you are joking with me, how could I lie to you with a sea knife, you said that you have known me for 30 years, I will not lie to anyone, did you help me less before, you are my benefactor, I ......" Master Zhao, who was frightened by Zhang Qingcang, was incoherent, and he didn't know why he was actually saying that the river knife that was fished up today was actually said by Lao Zhang to be a sea knife, and it was impossible to be dropped!

At this time, Zhang Ruiming on the side put down his chopsticks and said silently, "Indeed, the taste is not right." "He has eaten the knife once before, and he has a deep memory of the special fat fragrance, which can be said to be unforgettable for life, this time the knife fish still has that special taste, it should be a good knife, but it is a little different, there seems to be something wrong.

Zhang Qingcang is a glutton, and being able to eat this bite of "the first freshness of the Yangtze River" can be said to be one of the few reasons why he has lived in this life.

Not...... It's a bit bitter...... But not the bitterness of the sea knife......

"Lao Zhao, where did this river knife come up?"

Master Zhao hurriedly replied: "It was a ...... from the fishing fire wharf" Speaking of this, Master Zhao added as if he remembered something: "In the past few years, it is true that the saury caught from the fishing fire wharf is a little bitter, because the river knife migration over there is over the Jingsha River, and the water quality of the Jingsha River has not been good in recent years, it is very poor, and the fish are dying every day there, and the river knife is getting less and less year by year, so it will be like this, right?"

I see, when Zhang Ruiming heard this, he thought that something was wrong, and asked: "Then the Jingsha River is the upstream of our Jingang City, and it is the source of drinking water in the city, so no one cares about such a big thing?"

"Hey, which unit will be full and have nothing to care, there are often complaints from fishermen next to us, it's useless, it's useless to call and send emails, and our own business has been affected...... So, I'm sorry this time, this river knife doesn't taste right...... I actually can't help it, the environment is like this now, in this way, Mr. Zhang, I only charge you half of the money this time, I'm really embarrassed. ”

Zhang Qingcang waved his hand boldly, "I'm sorry, it's okay, I don't blame you for this, the money is as good as it says."

"Mr. Zhang, I'm really embarrassed, indeed, in the current environment outside, we are already the freshest and best, according to the current situation, it may be said whether there will be a river knife next year......"

Zhang Qingcang figured out that he was willing, and he didn't want to blame this old friend who had known him for many years, so he interrupted him and said, "It's okay...... By the way, go and order some noodles and put them in this fish soup, which is the most must-have. ”

"Hey, okay, right away!" After saying that, Master Zhao went into the house to make noodles.

Zhang Qingcang and the others concentrated on eating the saury in front of them, but Zhang Ruiming has always felt a little uncomfortable in his heart, the river knife in front of him is still delicious, but when eaten in the mouth, there is always a little estrangement, if there is no bitter taste, it slowly enters the heart with Master Zhao's words, and even the water in Jingang is already like this? Even when the mother river of Jingang people is polluted, such a big thing has not caused any investigation and feedback in the society, this is a matter of life and death, and no snowflake is innocent during the avalanche!

Zhang Ruiming secretly thought: When no one shouts, it is time for public interest litigation prosecutors to stand up.