The turbulent sea level stretches in front of you, and the deep blue water shows a tendency to gradually deepen, rushing towards the horizon, and at the end of the line of sight you can only see a large area of black, which cannot depict what kind of abyss is hidden under the deep water, magnificent and magnificent. Pen | fun | pavilion www. ｂｉｑｕｇｅ。 ｉｎｆｏ

There are almost no clouds above the blue sky, and the golden sunlight falls vertically without obstruction, rippling on the sparkling sea, smearing each wave with a light layer of color, making the roaring ocean transform into a completely different color, calm and wonderful, as if opening its arms and giving birth to the origin of life in the world.

But at this moment, an excited voice shouted, breaking the quiet peace, "Here we are!"

A small figure lying on a narrow surfboard, seeing the jelly-colored waves sweeping in the distance, quickly slid his arms and moved quickly in the direction of the waves. Against the backdrop of the vast sea, the wave looked no more than a finger high, but compared to the small figure, it was nearly as tall as three people, and it should be a huge wave of five or six meters, enough to wipe out a fragile life.

However, the figure on the ivory surfboard did not have the slightest fear, but was extremely excited, he was engrossed in watching the huge waves in front of him, waiting for the head of the board to feel the rising momentum of the waves, quickly stood up, slightly bent his legs, grasped the center of gravity, and then the whole person stepped on the waves and climbed all the way up.

I saw him walking through the mint blue waves, his outstretched arms were like goshawks, soaring in the wind, the refreshing waves were constantly flying in the air, mixed with gold and blue halos, one by one bursting open, sparsely falling on his cheeks, in a trance, as if the whole person was one with the ocean.

The waves rose to the highest point, he also stepped on the surfboard to rise to the highest point, and then penetrated the thin layer of waves, the whole person seemed to ride on the waves, the center of gravity of the body was solid and stable, the perfect balance and accurate control made the waves of the sea surrender to the surfboard, and the natural gliding became a kind of beautiful enjoyment.

Little by little, the waves calmed down, and the surfboard gradually returned to the surface of the sea, and at last the man standing on the surfboard raised his arms high, his bent knees completely straight, and he raised his arms and cheered, and the sound of laughter fluttered and fluttered in the roaring waves.

Paul raised his hands high and gave applause, his face was full of big smiles, even if there were no words, his body expressed the truest feelings in his heart, he turned his head, looked at his surfing friends around him, and raised his voice to ask, "Is this really his second surf?"

Andre Hamilton also applauded and congratulated, replying sideways, "You shouldn't have come to ask me." It's not me who calls Lan Li a madman. André shrugged his shoulders, undenied by the nickname, "My personal advice, though, is never to try to speculate on his actions, as he will always make you feel frustrated." ”

There was a hint of sarcasm in those words, but his sincerity could be heard, which made Paul laugh heartily and nodded, "I deeply agree with that." ”

"Fast & Thrill/Emotion 5" was officially announced a week ago, and the post-production shooting never went wrong, and all the filming went very smoothly. Paul personally experienced the whole filming process, and I really can't agree more with Andre's evaluation just now. The series is now in its fifth installment, and he has worked on four of them, but he has never had a shooting experience like this, which is truly eye-opening.

Paul believed that Van would agree with him.

After the shooting, Paul chose a quiet coastline to play surfing and relax on vacation. It just so happened that he had the best surfing season of the year.

The best time to get waves on Oahu, Hawaii, is in December and at least three international surfing competitions are held on Oahu.

For Hollywood, it's the opening moment of the year's awards season, and with the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles, almost no one wants to miss it. However, for Paul, the noise had nothing to do with him, so he didn't miss Hawaii's heyday every year.

This time, Paul invited Lan Li to go with him, and in the early days of "Fast & Excitement 5", they discussed going surfing on Oahu together, and Lan Li seemed very proactive. However, at this point in time, after entering the awards season, "Buried Alive" has shown good upward momentum, and it stands to reason that he would better return to Los Angeles and start working on the college's public relations.

Paul originally thought that the Blue Rite would refuse, but he still sent out the invitation out of politeness. Unexpectedly, Lan Li actually nodded in agreement! So, he was fortunate to see the scene just now.

When the surf was over, Lan Li got back on the surfboard and slid her hands in the direction of Paul and Andre.

In Hawaii in December, the temperature is still maintained at about 20 degrees, warm and comfortable, without the heat of midsummer, but also far from the cold of winter, occasionally there will be some thundershowers, like rain and mist of water vapor makes the air flutter restless heat, I can't help but want to wander in it, completely relaxed.

This made Lan Li glad that he did not go to Los Angeles, but came to Hawaii. He needs a vacation, "Love is Crazy" and "Speed and Excitement / Love 5" two consecutive works of continuous shooting, for nearly four months, there is not even breathing space, one work is a mental overdraft, the other work is physical exertion, like a roller coaster of ups and downs, it is really exhausting, he needs to let the tense spirit relax, and then he can return to work.

More importantly, he needs to slow down and enjoy the scenery of life.

Surfing is a wonderful thing, it seems to be one with the sea, and it seems to be driving the waves, the whole person is soaked in the magic of nature, and truly releases himself - the sound of the wind in the ears, the splash of the water, the flowing waves, the pull of gravity, everything is so wonderful, only by really feeling the rhythm of the waves, can you appreciate the style of freedom on the surfboard.

Just now, it was the first time he completed the entire wave, without mistakes, mistakes, flaws, from the beginning of the rising phase of the wave to the disappearance of the whole wave, the process of surfing was fully deduced, and just now it was a big wave of nearly six meters.

It's different from rock climbing, where you feel a completely different limit, but the exhilaration and enjoyment of embracing freedom is similar. Lan Li finally understands why some people are so passionate about surfing and participate in it every day. He's now starting to love the sport as well.

"Papapa", not only Paul and Andre, but also other surfing friends also applauded and praised the blue gift.

This is the east shore of Oahu, and it's a relatively private surf spot that true surfers know about. If Oahu's North Shore is a destination for pros, the East Shore is a paradise for amateurs.

The waves here are huge enough, but not as dangerous as the tubular waves on the north shore, and occasionally you can hit the top waves of five or six meters high, which is really suitable for intermediate and advanced amateurs.

Lan Li and the others are not loners here, on the gentle sea near the beach, there are more than a dozen surfboards floating, on which surfers of different ages sit. When they're not surfing, they'll choose to stay farther away to regain their strength, but when they're ready to continue surfing, they'll slide to the waiting area in front of them and start waiting for the waves.

Lan Li was also not modest, but made a curtain call for a stage play, and then returned to Paul and Andre next to him.

Andre gently patted the palm of his left hand with the fingers of his right hand, almost no applause, just made a gesture of applause, expressed his salute, and sighed, "Sure enough, Lan Li is still Lan Li." ”

Time flies, and they are no longer children at Eton College, but when they meet again, Lan Li can still make him feel amazed and admired.

It's been months since the last freehand climb, and I didn't expect the two to actually meet again in Hawaii, and in a surfing paradise – another extreme sport. After moving away from the aristocratic circles of London, the two men found common ground again, and the bridge of friendship was rebuilt again.

Lan Li smiled and said, "But Andre is no longer that Andre. ”

This sentence made both of them smile shallowly. André bent down, wet his arms with seawater, brushed his messy hair back to prevent the hanging strands from obscuring the view, and then said to Paul and Lan Li, "I'm leaving." ”

After saying that, Andrei began to paddle with both hands, going to the area in front and waiting for the waves.

"I've seen before, surfers are caught up in the waves, sprinting up and down in the inner walls of the waves, and they need to defy gravity......"

Lan Li depicted it to Paul, who had experienced surfing when he watched the movie "Extreme Thief" in his previous life, and actually participated in it, which felt more exciting than he imagined, but it seemed to be different from the movie.

Paul immediately reacted, "That's the tubular wave, and that's the most difficult." Like you said, you need to fight gravity, you need to form inertia, it's not just a matter of balance, it takes a lot of skill. "I once went to the North Shore once, and wow, it was a terrible experience, and I fell all over my body, like I was beaten for two days and two nights. ”

That vivid description made Lan Li laugh out loud, "I'm a little curious about what you said. Isn't there a professional surfing competition on the North Shore tomorrow? How about it? Why don't you go over and open your eyes?"

Grasp every moment of the present, cherish every moment of the present, and interpret life into a completely different color. This is the real life.