Chapter 468
A kind of pole white like jade, leaves as green as jade, each tree has at least seven or eight catties called "high pole white" Chinese cabbage, only in southern Anhui, so coriander can only be found in southern Anhui. Every year on a sunny day after the frost falls, it is common to see people from pickling factories and sauce factories going to the countryside to harvest Chinese cabbage. A cadre of people came to the vegetable field, cut down the vegetables, and after passing the scales, they were spread and dried on the spot, and the amount was greatly reduced, and then transported back to the factory. The wilted vegetables are washed in the sink, which is not easy to break, and the vegetables are easy to wash. Wash and chop, dry the water, or on the machine or rub it manually, squeeze out the juice, mix with chili powder, baked rapeseed oil, black sesame seeds, salt, mix it, and put it in a can, the mouth of the can should be left empty, so that it can be sealed with mashed garlic paste.
Zhangdu in the upper reaches of the Qingyi River, it is a Huishang Wharf town with rows of stilted buildings in the past ten "people" and "books", and every winter, the sauce shop in the town is full of coriander and diced radish in a huge vat. Anyone who travels to Zhangdu does not mention one or two bags of coriander and diced radish when they come back, and the itinerary is not perfect. Buy home and wait for a certain period of time to open the can, the newly pickled coriander, green with yellow, very bright, poured with small grinding sesame oil, eat fresh and salty sweet, tough and crispy, fragrant and spicy, its taste is endless, and chewy, the next meal can be appetizing, with wine can wake up, and after eating the teeth and cheeks are fragrant, it is a real local characteristic delicacy. Breakfast with porridge is particularly high-quality, the most common is to be used with morning tea, tear a few pieces of dried tea, take a small plate of coriander, with some pickled red pepper, or chew alone, or talk with two or three friends of the sea to blow the gods, the layers of life are thoroughly analyzed, and it is also worthy of being as comfortable as a fairy.
The flavor of coriander in southern Anhui is slightly different, but they are all spicy and palatable, and the flavor is timeless. Compared with the factory, the process of home production is more meticulous and dedicated. All choose a good sunny day, take a knife to the ground to chop down the whole furrow of strong, fresh and tender, juicy long-necked Chinese cabbage, dry it on the spot, and wash it on the spot. Cut into inch-long filaments and spread them on a bamboo bed or directly on the mats and sheets spread on the grass to dry. Drying vegetables is very particular, neither can be too dry, dry will be too old, eat the muscles and tendons; if not enough drying, the water in the dish is too large, it will not be brittle, lack of taste, and not long preservation. Generally speaking, three or four sunbaths are enough. Then it is kneading, kneading the dish out of "sweat", and then it is considered kneaded. Mash the garlic and mix it in, sprinkle with cooked vegetable oil and five-spice powder, chili powder, and fried black sesame seeds and mix well, put it into the jar and press it tightly, and then seal the mouth of the altar with dried lotus leaves, apply wet yellow mud outside, and store it in a cool and dry place.
Some are packed in the kind of pocket-sized glazed small jars, when the jar is opened, the room is full of fragrance, which makes people's appetite move, suck the nose hard, and then rush to send a few stems to the mouth to eat. Every morning after that, when there is porridge to sip, it looks delicious and moist...... The mellowness of human affection is like this coriander that lasts for a long time.
In the countryside, it is better to say that coriander is a delicacy. For people in the countryside and small market towns, the sunny days when washing vegetables every year are a series of hearty festivals.
The sun is so good, the cleanest clouds and the most transparent breeze in winter caressing the mountains in the distance. Wherever you go, beside the big river, by the pond, at the head of the stream, there are people washing vegetables, and your ears are full of laughter. The women and children are mostly prostrate or squatting on the water made of their own door panels, and rinse in the clear water with strong vegetable trees. Clean straw is laid on the ground by the water to dry vegetables, and there are also bamboo beds to dry vegetables. After soaking and washing, the vegetables are full of water and become firm, moist and fresh again. Geese and ducks leisurely chase the scattered leaves that have drifted away on the water's surface.
The young women took off their red, green, and green coats and put them on the branches and grasses beside them, and their bodies in thin shirts were even more beautiful and lovely. Their white, round calves are sometimes immersed in the water, which attracts many small fish to gather around them and kiss them with their mouths, and their laughter and laughter are more powerful than the warm breeze that blows the ripples of the water...... The reason why coriander is delicious and unforgettable is because the coriander is first pickled and smoked by these strong rural customs.
The celery family has several types of members with different body shapes and personalities: celery, which is big, thick and honest, white and yellow buds and gorgeous and elegant, and which is called medicinal celery with a small stem and roots. Cress is a kind of wild vegetable, also called river cressy, not tall, at best the ruler is long, the leaves are umbrella-shaped, the stem is thin and round and hollow with knots, the roots are thin and white and long, and it looks trembling in the hand, just like a spring boudoir girl who is ashamed.
In the wild, the green cress nature is lively, and without any scruples, you pull me and squeeze and squeeze into patches growing next to each other by the pond, by the stream or in the low-lying places, all of which are the same verdant and dripping, with the wind and waves. Cultivated with fuller petioles, they crowd the surface of the water in large areas, and they have fun concealing underwater secrets. Even on rainy and snowy days, they are all in unison with green leaves, greeting you in the water.
People in the water towns in the south of the Yangtze River love to eat water celery in winter and spring, in addition to the taste and fragrance, but also because it means auspicious. The thin round stem of water celery is empty, commonly known as "Lu Lu Tong", in order to make everything in the coming year and please the mouth, Chinese New Year's Eve 30 night usually have to make a plate at will.
Because of the water spirit in this show, water celery is favored on the daily dining table. Stir-fried with water celery and bacon, the taste is fragrant and pleasant, that is needless to say. Before stir-frying, cut the water celery and marinate it with salt for about ten minutes, stir-fry the bacon in the pot, pour in the water celery, put the white sugar to enhance the freshness, you can also add spicy, fry a few times on high heat, the chicken essence is poured in the water, and you can serve it while the fresh green is not retreating and the aroma is curling, which is refreshing and spicy. Stir-fried celery with dried tea shreds, you can add finely chopped red pepper shreds at the same time, several colors, the color matching is very eye-catching, revealing a kind of vitality, which makes people look at it and move their index fingers. Stir-fried stinky dried seeds with water celery, both fragrant and smelly, can be described as the same destination. The fragrance of water celery is different, and the fire defeat function is very strong, even if you don't pull anything, just fry and eat it, it can also make you eat in a very good mood. Blanch the celery in boiling water, squeeze it dry, cut it into small pieces, add salt, chicken essence, chili oil and vinegar, mix well and serve;
When selecting water celery, pinch the stem, the tender one is easy to break, and the tough one is not easy to break, which is the old cress.
Growing water celery is a very painstaking and arduous task. There is a saying that "water celery cannot be raised old and young", that is, without considerable physical strength and perseverance, it is impossible to make a living. Water celery grows in the water, takes root in the silt, and is harvested in the middle of winter.
The sky in the mountainous area is clear and clean all year round, no matter in the shallow water near the shore near the shore of the big ditch or small mountain pit or small stream, you can see the vigorous and vigorous wild cress, which exudes a strong breath of life in the sun, reflecting against the ruins and broken walls, and has a down-and-out and rich beauty. The rhizomes under wild cress are plump and white and tender, and they are easy to be torn off, so you need to pull them out slowly with patience, or pick up the silt and pull out the rhizomes before pulling out the whole plant.
Every time, more or less I get some to take home. Except for the upper part of the cress that is a little too old, it is mixed cold, and there is a quiet and quiet fragrance with a slight bitterness. If you choose the kind of white and tame young stems like a bride, it is good to make it out, crisp and tender, chew gently, and leave the fragrance between the tongues, which makes people involuntarily think of the bright spring and fresh and pleasant nature.
Du Fu has the poem "Peel the white crow valley chestnut, rice boiled green mud fang bottom celery", the "celery" here, in addition to the foreign celery, it is difficult to determine which kind of celery. And the Qing dynasty Zhang Xiongxi's poem "Eating Celery": "How is the art of planting celery, I heard that the palace is not discussed." The deep white root is noble in the world, and it does not teach the head to come out of the clear waves. The "white root" of "the world's noble" here can only come from two kinds of celery, either dry celery or water cress.
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