Chapter 182: Don't Forget Your Original Intention
Because it was a private venue, Jiro Ono saw that the guests were satisfied, and washed his hands, because Johnson knew how to appreciate his craftsmanship, so he came over and chatted.
Everyone stood up and bowed slightly to show their respect for the octogenarian, especially Memi, whose little face was flushed and very excited.
At a rare opportunity, SC Johnson asked Ono a question: What is the secret of the taste of the instant collapse of rice grains in the mouth?
Ono smiled and explained: "Real sushi is composed of five parts: relics, seeds, tears, purple, and Gari, and only by improving all of them can sushi be worth more than 20,000 yuan, and no matter which part is inferior, the price will vary greatly." ”
"Relic is a synonym for vinegared rice, and the juice should be made using kelp, so that the steamed rice has the umami of kelp. When the temperature drops to 7 percent, mix in transparent rice vinegar, sugar, and salt, and stir quickly. ”
"The vinegared rice I make needs to be close to the body's body temperature so that it can taste best with seafood. At the same time, good vinegared rice can neither get on your hands nor be too hard. It should smell slightly sour and taste mildly sweet, but it should definitely be pure white. ”
Johnson nodded, it may be that he has been in the media attention for a long time, Ono has become accustomed to sharing, not to mention that this is an instinct honed for decades, and others can't learn it if they want to.
"Seeds are all ingredients except pickles and cucumbers, and fish is the main ingredient. Some restaurants offer cheap sushi because there is no guarantee of freshness for the sake of the meal. The ingredients for the high-end sushi are caught from the sea that morning and cut from the fish 3 hours before they are served. ”
"That's something that most sushi restaurants can't do. The reason why my sushi is valuable is that the daily supply of ingredients is selected by me or my eldest son at the resident market. ”
Ono can't help but show pride and firmness, decades of perseverance does have domineering capital, the elderly regardless of spring, summer, autumn and winter, windy and rainy before five o'clock in the morning rushed to the market, personally selected the best ingredients, just for the guests that bite amazing.
"Tears are wasabi, the roots are slowly ground and served, and some are even directly placed on the fish fillet, wrapped and rolled, and the fish meat is dipped in soy sauce, so that you can eat the original taste of wasabi. ”
"Sushi restaurants that focus on quality mix light soy sauce with thick soy sauce to reach a certain percentage before serving it to customers. Even the best sushi restaurants will add kelp juice or even dried bonito to the soy sauce, boil it and then filter it to make mature soy sauce. ”
"A top-notch sushi restaurant must have its own recipe, and the flavor of the sauce, the salinity, the freshness, and the coloring power of the sauce must be adjusted during the brewing process. Depending on the taste of each ingredient, even the taste of each season, a variety of flavors are created. ”
When eating sushi, guests can tell at a glance whether they are rookies or not: when pouring soy sauce, they only need to pour a little bit into the plate, and only dip the corner of the fish meat, and never dip the rice grains in soy sauce. At Ono Sushi Restaurant, all the sauce is applied directly on top of the sushi, so there is no need for dipping sauce at all.
"The function of pickled ginger is to reset your taste buds every time you change the ingredients or change the way you eat, such as dipping it in salt, dipping it in soy sauce, burning Aburi, or sprinkling lemon juice, so as not to let the aftertaste of the previous taste affect the next taste. ”
"According to the ancient standard, every sushi you eat should eat pickled ginger, and you must never eat it with sushi, but eat the whole sushi completely and then eat it with a little pickled ginger. But the top masters must break through this limitation, break the chaos of the taste buds with freshness, and reach a well-layered realm. ”
Johnson was in awe, looking at the busy apprentices in the back kitchen, meticulously cleaning every inch of the corner, not daring to be sloppy and slack.
It was once introduced in the documentary that there is a saying in the sushi industry that there are relics for three years, and it takes at least three years to master just steaming a pot of rice.
And here in Ono, not to mention steaming rice, it is the easiest way to twist a towel, and all apprentices must practice for a full year!
Everything is ready, and the last grip is the key to all success. Dip your fingertips in hand vinegar to keep your hands moist, take out the sushi rice with one hand and knead it into a trapezoidal shape, while the other hand takes care of the subject.
Then use the hand to pinch the rice and take the freshly ground wasabi and apply it to the center of the theme, then place the sushi rice on the theme, and then go through about 20 processes to knead a beautiful, smooth sushi with curves.
This is why it is called the god of sushi because Jiro Ono's sushi rice has a cracking sensation that suddenly spreads in the mouth, and although the outer rice grains are pinched very tightly, the inside is filled with air, so that it does not loosen when you pick it up, and the entrance instantly collapses in the mouth......
The reason why I have to meet the customers face to face, and even put on a serious expression of supervision, is because during each chef's menu, the rice must be changed at least three times to ensure that the temperature and hardness and humidity are consistent.
On the one hand, most traditional sushi chefs are reluctant to face the camera, and on the other hand, taking pictures will inevitably delay the best time to eat, and the residual temperature of the hand will disappear, which is a great disrespect to the host!
SC Johnson recalls the whole process and says: "Tasting your sushi is like going through two peaks: from the delicate white body, to the bright object that is rich in color and needs special treatment, to the tuna naked, from the middle belly to the big belly, to complete the first peak." ”
Next, we will attack the taste buds with seasonal varieties to welcome the second peak, and finally finish with a warship roll with charcoal-grilled seaweed, a cave and tamagoyaki. ”
Ono was stunned for a moment, slowly smiled, and said with relief: "Usually the fishy smell of light objects is strong, and it is necessary to remove the fishy smell by vinegar or salting, and whether or not you can handle the silver body fish well is an important indicator to test the skill of a sushi restaurant......"
"I would rub a pinch of salt on the needlefish, pass it over a sip of water, hold it into sushi and peel off the skin. Spring is the best time to use it, and it contains the taste of spring......"
"I've always thought that the best midbelly is the one under the dorsal fin of tuna, and you can only get 1-2 pieces per fish as a ...... for regular customers."
"The belly has the most fat, but the tendons are hard, so it needs to be cooked in ice cubes, and timing is extremely important......
"I use abalone from the Boso Peninsula, and instead of boiling it, I steam it in sake for three and a half hours to absorb the flavor, and then brush it with a light soy sauce sauce ......"
"A few years ago, I accidentally tried to use shrimp that has been cooled to human body temperature to nigiri sushi, and it was surprisingly amazing, and it has become a big signature here......
For Ono, it was the best thing for guests to be able to taste the true meaning of the craft, and finally sent Johnson out of the house in person to show respect.
What shocked me the most was not the food, but the craftsman spirit of perseverance and never forgetting the original intention.
According to Megumi in Japanese, a person with exquisite skills is called a craftsman. Although it may seem simple on the letter, it is synonymous with excellence, perseverance and preservation of tradition, and the craftsman is a respectable title in the island nation.
In June 2016, Haruko Niizu was named a national treasure for her ability to clean, and her masterpiece is the 760,000-square-meter Haneda Airport in Tokyo.