Chapter 383: Rice Wine with Broad Beans
A small felt hat, a canopy boat, a plate of fennel beans, a bowl of daughter red, watching a traditional social drama in the middle of the flowing water, there are many reasons to come to Shaoxing.
I remember the first time I saw the place name of Shaoxing, it was still in the textbook, Mr. Lu Xun's Xianheng Hotel, as well as Kong Yiji and fennel beans. I still remember Mr. Kong's classic sentence.
There are also many stories such as Sanwei Book House and Ah Q, which also makes this ancient city more and more desirable.
A mountain, a water, an ancient city, a wall, a tile, an old street, a leaf of black peng into the painting, the old street of Shaoxing flows on the green mountains and green waters, scattered among the pink walls and tiles, hidden between the green trees and flowers, everywhere is history, everywhere is the scene.
Walking into the old street, it is like walking into the thick history of Shaoxing, time flows slowly here, the pictures overlap and intertwine here, the prosperity is like a scene, the dust is like a dream, the rise and fall in the smoke and rain, and the personnel changes, only the old street is still as vicissitudes as in the past.
The canopy boat, a unique means of transportation in the water town, got its name from the black color of the awning. This is the world of boats, most of the canopy boats sail in the river, the line is brisk, the berthing is leisurely and elegant, or alone or group, alone is the only high-level, the group is mighty.
The canopy is woven into a semicircle with bamboo pieces and bamboo wires, and a clamp is embedded in the middle. Two semicircles were made in the middle of the leaf statue, and after being made, they were mixed with bituminous coal powder and tung oil and coated on the canopy.
Hire a boat alone, open the canopy, sit or lie down, listen to the gurgling water and the crunching sound of slurry, look at the mountains and rivers on both sides of the strait, the pastoral scenery, there is really a "mountain ** up, such as the feeling of swimming in the mirror."
Whether it is rippling on the rivers and lakes with the waves, or walking through the bridges and alleys, it is all interesting. If you go to visit Lu Xun's grandmother's Jia'an Qiaotou, Keqiao, the water town market town, the ancient and unique Bazi Bridge, or go to the famous East Lake to enjoy spring.
Power is powered by the paddles. The rower sits on the back end, holding the rowing pole clamped under the armpit with one hand, stepping on the end of the oar handle with both feet, stretching and retracting the legs, and the oars hit the water up and down to propulsion, and the speed can reach more than 10 kilometers per hour.
The course of the boat is controlled by hand oars, and the boatman uses both feet and hands as the boat moves. Sometimes the boatman would put the oar under his arm, which he used as the rudder, and leave his hands free, so that he could hold a bowl of wine and taste it in the swift sailing of the light boat, and his head would be covered by a black felt hat.
Enjoy the scenery all the way, occasionally reach out of the boat, hit the water and play, very comfortable. Even lying in the boat, closing your eyes and listening to the murmuring of the water at the bottom of the boat is very interesting.
Folklore has it that the ancient Yue was originally Zeguo, before the pond gate was built, the river went straight to the sea, the "pigeon" lived in the sea, the dragon loved the dragon, the dragon saw it and avoided it, so the boat people carved its image on the bow of the boat, so that the dragon did not dare to make trouble, and the boat could be safe; on both sides of the bow, there were two stone piers of carved lions, and the most exquisite one was also made of white copper.
There are several escalators to get off the boat in the front cabin, and there is a shelf on each side to put things. Between the front cabin and the middle cabin, there is a small screen door for calligraphy and painting, which is written with poems such as "the cold rain even the river enters Wu at night", "the moon falls and the sky is full of frost", and the patterns such as plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum and so on are painted; there are "ten view windows" on both sides of the middle cabin, which can be used to place books or cakes; the rear cabin is equipped with sleeping bunks and stoves.
Or line or park, line is brisk, park is leisurely and elegant; or alone or group, alone is unique and high-level, group is mighty. The canopy boat is the spirit of the water town, and it is also the scenery of the water town.
Come to the legendary Sanwei Library, a famous private school in Shaoxing City in the late Qing Dynasty. Lu Xun studied here from the age of 12 to 17. The seat of the great writer is in the northeast corner of the study, and a hardwood desk is the original used by Lu Xun.
Once Lu Xun was late for some reason and was criticized by Mr., he carved the word early in the upper right corner of the desk to encourage himself. Jukushi Shou Jinggo was a square, simple and erudite man. His personality and academic spirit left an unforgettable impression on Lu Xun.
However, forty square meters, there is a plaque of Sanwei Shuwu hanging above the center, which is inscribed by the famous calligrapher Liang Tongshu of the Qing Dynasty. In the article From Baicao Garden to Sanwei Study, it is written: Go out to the east, not half a mile, walk across a stone bridge, and it is my husband's home. Entering through a black bamboo door, the third room is a study. There is a plaque hanging in the middle: Sanwei Book House.
When it comes to this, there are always two specialties that cannot be bypassed. The first is the rice wine that Lao Shaoxing feels uncomfortable without drinking two sips every day, and the second is the mouthful of thick and colorful soy sauce that is inseparable from three meals a day.
Most of the food in other places pays attention to taste, and those who are more demanding will also pursue the freshness of the ingredients and the delicacy of the plating. In Shaoxing, food is made for wine. Almost all Shaoxing-style delicacies, not to mention whether the production process is complicated or not, as long as they can be drunk, in the eyes of Shaoxing people, it is a good thing.
And snacks, in some cities, seem to mean delicious, with their own city street taste, but not on the elegant side of the food. Here, the locals' snacks are almost the same as the main meal, which can be found in the streets and alleys, but also in the hotel tables through exquisite plates.
For example, Lu Xun's simple warm two bowls of wine require a stack of fennel beans to achieve the gastronomic status of fennel beans in the hearts of non-Shaoxing people. The more you chew, the more flavorful it becomes, and every restaurant where locals gather will have fennel beans that can be called their own signature.
The boiled fennel beans are green and yellow, tender and soft in taste, and have a fragrant and sweet taste, which is accompanied by chili sauce and sweet and spicy sauce.
Shaoxing is really not big, through two or three streets, then into the old alleys of the stone road. The alley is as narrow as a few rickshaws wide. Most of the old houses have open doors, and the inside exudes an antique atmosphere. The coachman said that most of the people living in it are now living in it, and the young ones have moved into high-rise buildings, which is quite embarrassing, and people are a little surprised by the heritage of this small town.
did not go to Shen Garden, which was crowded, but came to Qingteng Bookstore. Entering is a courtyard, only a few square widths, not a garden, just a courtyard. One fall is more than ten verdant bamboos, one fall is two or three luxuriant plantains, there are rattan trellises next to the stone path, there are low old wells in a few steps, and the wellhead is concave and has rust-like moss.
There is a stone platform under the tall plain wall of the book house, and several books of flowers and plants are placed in pots and stones, and there are three words embedded on the wall, which is called Zizai Rock. The breath is very good, lonely, and does not deliberately block it, but it is deeply isolated from the hustle and bustle outside.
There is a small square pond in front of the house, stretching straight to the bottom of the house, more than ten tails of brocade scales in the pond swim leisurely, a green ashlar base under the house also stands in the water, engraved with the three words "in the pillar". The mainstay is a big and intense scene, but it can be established in the silence of the square inch if you don't want to. The business of the ancients is really unreachable.
Plants, trees, fish and insects, water stones, calligraphy, literature, and the human spirit are unfolded in a three-dimensional, dynamic and static way in this corner of only ten square meters, narrating the universe of mustard seeds. This kind of kung fu can only be done by the Chinese civilization.
Further back, there is only a small rectangular patio. A laurel tree is planted at each corner, and it is said that one is a golden cinnamon and the other is a silver cinnamon. It's a pity that it's not time to bloom now, and I can only appreciate the coolness brought by the shade of the trees.
Some sunlight unexpectedly seeped in, reflecting on the stone floor, as if inexplicable words were floating. Against the wall was a long stone case, very clumsy, just a few large rough stones on top of each other, and a few equally clumsy small boulders underneath.
There are more than a dozen pots of orchids on the case, including blue and white porcelain pots, and several clay pots, which are not uniform. And because of this disunity, carelessness, these orchids actually melted into this lonely patio.