Chapter 381: Jiangnan Tannery
In the southeast corner of Zhejiang, there is a small city, which is surrounded by mountains and seas, with a mild climate, and is named Wenzhou. People always think that this place is full of tanneries, and people here are speculating in houses, but they don't know that Wenzhou people have only been in business for decades, and Wenzhou has been built for more than 2,000 years, and the study of food has a history of thousands of years.
If you can talk to a Wenzhou person about the food of pig noodles, then this friend will be counted: like Hunan rice noodles, no bowl of pork noodles can get out of Wenzhou, unless you come. And every Wenzhou person who returns to his hometown abroad, most of the breakfast on the second day of arriving home is a bowl of fresh and hot pork offal noodles.
At four o'clock in the morning, people are still asleep, and the city's glutinous rice has already been cooked. The mushroom broth boiled in advance, the freshly fried fritters are chopped into pieces, and the shrimp skin seaweed and pork are flossed with sesame seeds, neatly arranged. There are also buckets of freshly boiled soy milk.
At seven o'clock, people at work came one after another, boss, a bowl of glutinous rice with more meat soup and less shallots, and a bowl of sweet soy milk. The boss expertly scoops a spoonful of glutinous rice from the steamer, pours gravy, spreads fried dough sticks, and finally sprinkles chopped green onions, this bowl of glutinous rice full of carbs is the start of every local's day.
Eat sticky rice with soup. Egg drop soup, tofu brain, and soy milk are common choices. There are two kinds of soy milk, salty and sweet, salted soy milk will put fritters, seaweed, shrimp skin and green onions, and sweet soy milk will be sprinkled with black sesame seeds, if there are any taboos, remember to tell the boss in advance.
Both salty and sweet parties can be satisfied here. The sweet sticky rice here is not the same as elsewhere. Deep-fried fried fritters, evenly sprinkled with sugar and black sesame seeds, mixed with glutinous rice, and eaten in a big bite, no one can refuse such a delicacy.
When the people of Hunan and Jiangxi were still arguing about the first rice noodles in the world, the people of Wenzhou cried, because the pig noodles had never left Wenzhou at all......
Pork offal noodles are made of fresh rice noodles, which can be bought fresh every morning when you go to the vegetable market, and you have to eat them on the same day, and they can't be stored, so this kind of rice noodles is difficult to eat outside of Wenzhou.
Pig organs, as the name suggests, are pig offal, mainly the large intestine, small intestine and pig blood. It is cleanly processed, stewed for an hour, and only after eating it is enough to absorb the flavor, soft but not rotten, and full of glutinous fragrance.
The pork bone soup is clear in color and fragrant to drink, and it is paired with smooth rice noodles, fresh blood, and fragrant glutinous large intestines, a bowl of great satisfaction.
In the evening, people's thirst for carbs after a hard day is even stronger. The supper is a heavy version of pork offal powder. The color of the soup base is much richer at first glance, and the ingredients are simply spread all over the large intestine, and the soup is covered with oil.
The water and rice are different in different places, and the rice noodles made are essentially different. The rice noodles here are finer than Guilin rice noodles, not too tough and glutinous, and pay attention to smoothness and rice fragrance.
Dried flour is another type of rice flour, which is ground into gouache by grinding rice with water, going through two steaming processes, and finally pressed into filaments and dried into powder. It is very convenient to carry and store, and it is a dry food that Wenzhou people often prepare and often carry when they go out.
There are two types of thickness, and there may only be a slight difference in size before cooking, but the taste is completely different. Dry coarse powder is suitable for cooking soup noodles, be careful when cooking, it may be boiled if you are not careful, you should eat it immediately after cooking, the dried powder is easy to absorb water, and it will fall off after a while.
The toppings are free, they can be as simple as a scrambled egg with broth or a hearty bowl of seafood noodles. Whole small yellow croaker, fresh oysters, fresh shrimp, dried shrimp, dried eel......
Start the big iron pot, add the lard, first fry the condiments: eggs, pork, onions and carrots, then add the soaked powder, pour in the condiments, and finally add the vegetables, a plate of stir-fried noodles full of wok, dry and steaming.
It tastes tough, and the part with a little pot is the most exciting, golden and charred, with rich condiments, full of oily fragrance.
Where there is no glutinous rice, it is a foreign country, and where there is no fried noodles, it is a wandering!
A meal here can be without meat, but absolutely not without fish. If you want to choose to eat only one type of fish for the rest of your life, then the people here will definitely choose: catfish.
Two years ago, the media made statistics that 3,718 tons of catfish were eaten in a year, worth 150 million yuan.
A pound of fish meat mixed with three taels of sweet potato starch, no more, no less, the fish cake made in this way is not only fishy, but also elastic enough. To dip in soy sauce vinegar. This is the magic weapon of Wenzhou people's seafood, the golden ratio of soy sauce to vinegar 1:2. Whether you eat seafood or chicken, duck and goose, you rely on this small plate of dipping sauce to season.
Fish balls are also not spherical in shape, but in irregular strips. Also mix the white starch with the catfish, add shredded green onion and ginger, knead until the fish is elastic, and then use a scraper to scald it into the boiling water little by little, and wait until it floats, and the fish balls are cooked.
I like to add a lot of vinegar, pepper and chopped green onions, and remember to say hello in advance if you are not used to eating sour. The fish meat is smooth on the outside and tender on the inside, very chewy, the fish soup is delicious, and the sour and hot seasoning is fishy and fresh, which is very appetizing.
The same fish meat is added with sweet potato flour, but the knock fish and fish cake made are completely different in shape and taste. Knocking fish is as thin as cicada wings, which is a thin slice of fish meat after adding starch and beating it into more than 20 strips. Green vegetables, shredded radish and mushroom slices are also added to the soup, which can be said to be the favorite bowl of soup of Wenzhou people.
The crystal clear strips of jelly, dyed with a beautiful soy sauce color, look like Q bombs, and will melt in the mouth, full of fresh fragrance. If you eat an obvious elastic taste, it may be mixed with gelatin, after all, the cost of using pure fish gelatin is not low.
In fact, Wenzhou cuisine is also called Ou cuisine, which occupies a place in the four major schools of Zhejiang cuisine. This depends not only on the abundance of products, but also on the skill of knife work, the discerning eye for identifying ingredients and the sense of seasoning. And all of this is for one thing: the pursuit of the original umami of the ingredients.
Midges, the name given to blue crabs by Wenzhou people, grow at the confluence of seawater and freshwater. The body is sturdy, and the big one can weigh up to two kilograms, so a crab becomes a dish.
The best midges are produced in Lingkun, a small town at the mouth of the Oujiang River, where the midges are not inferior to Sanmen blue crabs. The midges around the Mid-Autumn Festival are the fattest, because at that time the female crabs have just finished mating, and it is also the time when the crab roe is the fullest.
Different from hairy crabs, the most delicious parts of the midge are two large crab claws, which have a lot of meat and are tender, while on the dining table in Wenzhou, eating a crab claw dry and scraping clean can be said to be a basic table manner.
Another crab, not everyone dares to try. It seems simple, but it is a dish that tests knife skills. River crab raw, with the pike crab in the Oujiang River as raw material, the raw crab is disinfected with liquor after treatment, the decomposition is very test knife work, and then used vinegar, soy sauce, rice wine, sugar, white pepper to dip, the dosage will be a little different from house to family, but it must be sour, sweet, spicy, and the entrance is fresh and smooth.
Superior knife work, embodied in the big dish. For example, fried yellow croaker. It is similar to the vinegar fish in West Lake, but it is a completely different knife technique. The fried yellow croaker is a peony flower knife, and the West Lake vinegar fish is a willow leaf flower knife, and the nuances of this are difficult to find without comparison.