Chapter 89: A Bowl of Noodles
After turning the garden, go straight to the century-old Yuxing Ji, the first meal in Suzhou must be noodles!
Suzhou people eat noodles, very particular, get up in the morning to catch a soup noodle. The strong noodles are churned in the pot where the first soup is boiled, and a steaming bowl is placed in front of you, and the day begins.
As a leader in the noodle restaurant, Yuxingji has many fans, and has been on the second season of the tip of the tongue. Eat three shrimp noodles in spring, Fengzhen big meat noodles in summer, eat bald butter noodles in autumn, and order frozen chicken noodles in winter. One season at a time, never perfunctory.
As the saying goes, it is not fresh and not eaten, and now in season, it is best to have a bowl of bald butter noodles, known as Hermes in the noodle world.
Enter the private room, order the special again, but where the chain store, if you want to eat the original or the main store, the cooking is too personal, even if the time and place are right, no one and bullshit are not.
A bowl of bald butter noodles, steaming, three female crabs and three male crabs of crab paste and crab roe boiled, bald butter is the Suzhou dialect, bald is the only, unique meaning.
Butter refers to high-purity crab roe without a hint of crab meat. Because of the cost of materials and labor, it is almost on the verge of being lost.
Bald butter was originally a way to store crabs to prevent hunger, and you can still enjoy the out-of-season crab flavor after the crab season, while the role of lard is to isolate and seal in the era when there were no refrigerators.
Johnson picked up a pair of chopsticks, put them in his mouth, and said with satisfaction: "In the past, many people in the local area had a lot of crabs and couldn't finish eating, so they took out the crab paste and crab roe, fattened and boiled well, put them in bottles or jars, and kept them for later bibimbap to eat." ”
"Take out the autumn ripe male crab crab paste and female crab crab roe, add the fat powder, stir-fry with green onion and ginger until fragrant, and then add the broth to boil. A small bowl of golden and bright bald butter, scoop a spoonful and mix on the noodles, the crab roe and crab paste are boiled in broth and fat, and wrapped in each noodle ......"
Suck hard, as if countless crabs are swarming, scrambling to crawl over the tip of the tongue, and the fluffy crab legs tease the taste buds, sour and numb, as stimulating as overelectricity.
Served with a plate of shredded ginger, it is also a habit of Suzhou people, which can play a role in removing the smell and reducing the greasy taste of the noodles, and at the same time, eating shredded ginger in the morning can also warm the stomach and nourish the body.
Xia Long likes to eat noodles, Xia Hu is in charge of guarding, picking up the bowl and feasting, after the wind and clouds have eliminated the two large bowls, he is satisfied: "198 a bowl, great value for money!"
Johnson put down his chopsticks and left a small half bowl, just waiting for the shredded shrimp and pork, the emperor of the noodles, to cook the noodles first and fry them in oil until they turn yellow on both sides, also known as double-sided yellow. In the middle of the store, there is a two-sided yellow face in the king of the king's gold signboard, which is coming for it.
Before eating, you should turn over so that you can eat the best state of crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. A bowl of noodles with a bowl of shredded egg soup, a plate of oil, after coming up, drink a mouthful of soup, and then scoop up the noodles, the aftertaste is endless.
In the early years, there were two kinds of soft and hard, the hard side yellow was fried raw, and the hard side was filtered and fried on both sides, and the fragrance wafted out, and then fished out and put on the plate. Then pour the toppings on the noodles to let the noodles absorb enough marinade, and the taste is fragrant and delicious.
The bottom of the noodles and the toppings of Yuxing Ji are separated, the bottom of the noodles is divided into two kinds of red and white, the white soup is clear, the red soup is mellow and fresh, and the soup stock is used after the old hen has been boiled for six hours.
Because it is the top match, there are more than 20 kinds of toppings of large and small sizes to choose from, fragrant but not greasy, crisp but not oily. The exterior of the dough resembles a cake, but the inside is not adhered to each other, and it is in the shape of a bird's nest.
If you mix the marinade, the noodles will still have the same fragrance after they soften, but they will become crispy and fresh, and you can eat two flavors in a bowl of noodles.
Yuxing assorted is very good, shrimp, chicken slices, fish fillets, hoof tendons, fungus, belly slices and other ten kinds of ingredients are stir-fried. In the old days, there was no such thing as packing. If there are any leftovers after the dinner, take them home.
Pour white dishes such as shrimp, hoof tendons, mushrooms, and chicken slices together separately and stir-fry them together, while soy sauce is used for eel paste, kidney flower, pork liver, duck gizzard, etc., or the dishes with red color are poured together, which is called white and red dishes, which is simple and not sloppy, and is in line with the new concept of energy conservation and environmental protection.
When it comes to eating noodles, Suzhou people are absolutely serious. The noodles must be pressed within three hours, and the taste of the noodles after more than three hours is poor, so many people ask at the first time of eating: Is it a new noodle?
The pot below should be large, the water should be plentiful and boiling, and the noodles will come out after a few boils in the pot. If there is less water and more noodles, it takes a handful of noodles to be put down for half a day before they are scooped up, and the jargon is called swollen noodles, and there will be no repeat customers if they are killed.
Boiling time for a short time is called hard noodles, and cooking for a while longer is rotten noodles. About half of the locals will ask the following chefs to be a little harder or a little rotten when they eat noodles, and different chefs have a very different grasp of soft and hard, which is also the reason why the time-honored brands are so popular.
Dew is the recipe of various seasonings and spices, which determines the basic taste of noodles, and it is easy for old diners to eat whose noodles this is with their eyes closed, so the recipe of dew is a housekeeping skill.
Legend has it that Zhu Hongxing's dew contains juice boiled with eel bones, and after these time-honored brands were publicly operated, many of them were lost and a large number of customers were lost.
The most important thing is the bowl of soup, if the noodle restaurant opens at 6 a.m., then the soup has to start at 3 a.m. Choose the ingredients, the main raw materials are chicken, pork, bones, eel bones, fish scales, add water and boil thoroughly, and then hang out the clear soup. Pork must be made of three fine and three fat, fat and thin pork ribs.
The hanging soup of Suzhou noodles is by no means a Cantonese pot, nor is it the kind of boiling in the north, but it is very similar to the blending in winemaking, and only the hanging soup master knows how to add the right soup to the right amount at the right time.
After hanging out, the pork bones are added and then simmered, and the bones must be pork leg bones and backbone bones. After the bones are put in, the heat is also particular, and you can see the skewers of bubbles in the soup pot, so that it can be simmered slowly for about three hours before it can be opened.
No matter how prosperous the business is, the soup in that soup pot must not be sold out, and the leftover soup can only be hung out deliciously. It is called old soup after accumulation of time, and when the soup is old, the business will become more and more prosperous.
Each old Suzhou has its own preference for eating noodles, what wide soup hard noodles are heavy green and two-sided......
Hard noodles require noodles to be broken, rotten noodles are slightly overcooked, no soup is mixed noodles, tight soup is less soup, wide soup is more soup, heavy green means more garlic......
Always calm and relaxed, the steaming noodles and toppings are served, first blow the hot air, and then drink a small sip of the noodle soup with a spoon to taste the umami of the soup.
Compared with the service of the old brand in the early years, you can now steal the fun. At least someone served you a table, and as soon as you entered the store and ordered the noodles, the boss did not force you to quickly find a place to sit down, use an abacus to settle accounts, and only accept cash in the store.
The first thought I had when I woke up in the morning was: hurry up and eat the first noodle soup. I like to go to the noodle restaurant in the early morning when it is just open, when the water below is clear water, and the noodles taste the best, so I get up early just to grab that mouthful of noodle soup.
According to SC Johnson, a good bowl of noodles must be scalded three times: the noodles are hot, and the noodles are not watered in warm water, but in boiling water.
The soup is blanched, and the prepared noodle soup is placed in an iron pot and simmered over the remaining heat to maintain its temperature.
The bowl is hot, and after the bowl is washed, it is placed in boiling water to take it, even in the cold winter of the number nine, it can sweat when eaten.
It's better to finish the noodles within three to five minutes, so that it is the original taste!