Chapter 29: The pride of the shopkeeper
The two brothers glanced at each other, sat down directly with a smile, and understood that Johnson didn't like to be too serious, and after this period of contact, the new boss had a clean background and deep connections, no wonder he didn't need too many bodyguards around.
Johnson handed the menu to Xia Long and asked him to order, but Xia Long was not hypocritical, and quickly ordered and asked the waiter to serve the food as soon as possible.
Helped Johnson pour a full cup of tea, and said casually: "As the capital of roast duck, Beijing is not only Quanjude and cheap shops, but also many rising stars. For example, Da Dong roast duck has become more and more popular in recent years, and it has even been selected as a roast duck for the state banquet, of course, the price is not cheap. ”
"In addition, the old roast duck restaurants also include Baikui Laohao, Liqun, Tianwaitian, Da Ya Pear, Jiuhuashan, and Golden Million...... The taste is not much different, it's all about that. ”
"As soon as I heard that this gentleman is an expert!" The shopkeeper happened to come in to serve the food, brought a few plates of lo-mei to the table, and said with a smile: "After Emperor Zhu Di moved the capital to the capital, he brought many palace roast duck masters. During the Jiajing period, the roast duck was passed from the court to the people, and our cheap roast duck shop was opened in the Mishi Hutong at the mouth of the vegetable market, and it was also the first roast duck shop in Sijiu City. ”
"The fat grass duck is used as raw material, and the net weight is required to be 2.5 kg. Pay attention to the crispy skin and tender meat, fat but not greasy. But the real connoisseur is very picky about the bag of red brine presented in the store. ”
Pointing to a few small plates of marinated meat: "Whether the duck in the store is roasted well or not can be guessed by looking at the appearance, but whether the old marinade is right or not, you have to taste it with your tongue to know." ”
"Roast duck in an open oven, and the duck cavity must be filled with water. Roasted outside and boiled inside, once the duck meat is cooked, this bag of juice is also fresh. Pour the wine-stuffed honey brine into the soup while it is hot, pour it with sugar, rice vinegar, refined salt, and add a drop of soy sauce to it. ”
After saying that, he closed the door and left with a smile, Johnson picked up a piece of duck paw, put it in his mouth, and savored it: "I heard that ducks were originally raised in the Yuquan Mountains and Rivers, and they are not frozen in winter, and they drink mineral water, and eat mineral fish, shrimp and aquatic plants?"
"Hey, that was how many years ago!" Xia Long also picked up a piece of lo-mei, and said while chewing: "People in Beijing like to ponder, and there are a lot of curves and curves in everything." Don't talk about ducks, even the fuel is best with jujube firewood. ”
"If there is really no jujube wood, peach, apricot, pear and other fruit trees can make do with firewood. The smoke is less and the fire is hard, burn-resistant, and has a clear fragrance. However, all firewood such as pine, cypress, tsubaki, and paulownia with peculiar smell cannot be used. ”
"In the past, people were poor, and it was rare to eat roast duck next time, and I wanted to eat as much meat as possible. Therefore, when the older generation of Quanjude chefs slice roast duck, they will use the knife to the maximum extent. ”
"At most, there are more than 110 pieces at a time, and at least more than 90 pieces. For auspicious purposes, they are collectively referred to as 108 tablets. But after this kind of film, there is nothing left of the whole duck, and even boiling duck soup seems weak. And in some places, the meat is sliced, but the taste is not good. ”
"Later, after many explorations, I found that 90 slices of roast duck is the most ideal. Now when you go to Quanjude, as long as it is a directly-operated store, the number of slices of each roast duck should be 90 pieces. ”
"The taste of each slice is basically the same, and the remaining duck rack can still be boiled into an authentic duck rack soup. ”
The three of them chatted while eating, and soon several dishes were ready, and the shopkeeper sent a few plates of pastries, introducing: "To eat roast duck, you must roll it up with bread to eat it." Roast duck without bread, even if it is roasted thoroughly, will be greasy, the key is that it does not taste fragrant. ”
"The dough in our store must be baked first and then steamed. One is to increase elasticity and the other is to maintain sustainable moisture. ”
"Once the bread is dry, it is easy to harden, it is not delicious, and it must be served in a steamer to be authentic. Some shops put the dough directly on the plate, which is really taboo!"
"Authentic dough must be rich in elasticity, and even if you hold it together, once you loosen it, it will still recover quickly. ”
The shopkeeper Erguang said that it didn't seem to be enough, so he took out the menu again, pointed to the pastry on the plate, and swore that "the really high-quality pastry is clear and transparent, even if it is through the pastry, it will not affect the reading of the text, I don't believe you can try it!"
"There is also this sweet noodle sauce, which must be carefully prepared with the sauce of Liubiju, with sugar and sesame oil, and mixed into a special roast duck sweet noodle sauce. ”
"Pay attention to not thick, not light, unremitting, just like a glimpse of the hibiscus beauty who is lazy to draw Emei through the window, a little powder, but it is gorgeous. ”
The more he talked, the more excited he became: "To judge whether the sweet noodle sauce is professional and authentic, you only need one point: you use chopsticks or cucumber strips to dip the sauce in the top, and stay in the air, as if it is not dripping, it is considered a first-class good noodle sauce." ”
"This kind of noodle sauce is so catchy that you can eat it with a happy taste!"
Everyone laughed, this is one of the pleasures of coming to the century-old restaurant to eat, everything can be told one, two, three, full of pride of the owner.
The roast duck master entered the door and began to slice the roast duck on the spot, Johnson looked at it for a while, in fact, he had practiced it before. With a sharp small fork, lay the whole duck flat on the board and cut off the duck's head first.
With the left hand, gently grasp the lower bend of the duck's neck, and first cut the front breast skin and meat into several thin slices. Then slice the upper right and left breasts, and slice four or five knives.
The three prongs of the duck bone are opened, and the tip of the knife is cut along the middle line bone to the right side, so that the bone and flesh are separated, and the upper half of the breast can be tilted right to the next slice, through the slice leg, and the leg is removed until the tail.
The master's knife skills are not bad, mainly oblique blades, using wrist strength, light and accurate knife intake, and decisive knife exit. The left finger gently presses the duck skin, and at the same time as the blade, the raw material under the piece is brought back, and then the second piece is followed, and the movements of the two hands are rhythmically coordinated.
It is said that one duck is eaten three times, but in fact, according to Johnson's understanding, three meals are the knife skills of a slice of ducks.
One has skin, two has meat, and three has oil.
The difference between the advantages and disadvantages lies in the thin layer of duck fat.
Rolling the dough and putting it in his mouth, Xia Long showed an expression of enjoyment. Johnson pursed his lips, passing the level, but not amazing.
Maybe I don't have much feeling for the duck, but the lo-mei is not bad, relish, pack and take away, and go back with red wine in the evening.
At the end of a meal, the dish felt decent, but the shopkeeper was the second in the shop, with witty words and enthusiasm and humor, which impressed Johnson deeply.
There is that pride in my bones, I heard that I have worked in the cheap shop since my grandfather's generation, and my grandparents have three generations, and I laughed that I was born here, and I will become a ghost here when I die.
SC Johnson sighed that perhaps only a century-old store has this kind of heritage, and the reason why it is loved by the locals must be outstanding.