Section 195 Kanas Lake (3)

Hu Jiaojiao is talking to us on the side about where to eat, to solve the problem of food and clothing for all of us hungry, saying that we are sleeping all the way, hungry and screaming, we are completely whimsical, hungry, completely did not notice that the side of the road suddenly came next to a local old man with fairy wind bones, he saw us very excited, and then greeted us warmly, chatted a few words of greeting, but also hospitable and warmly welcomed us to his house to have a light meal, what a blessing from the sky, God bless, we dreamed, hungry and thirsty, the long-awaited meal finally has been settled.

We happily followed the old man's vigorous pace, along the winding sheep intestine path did not walk for too long, unconsciously talked and laughed to the old man's home, in front of a Swiss-style log cabin in the village, we followed the old man's steps up the stairs one by one, couldn't wait to walk in, to find out, only to see his home cleaned very clean, spotless, their family also smiled and greeted us, warmly greeted us, the kind-eyed, amiable, silver-haired old lady and a ruddy face of the lovely Tuva village boy, they came out to greet us, so he hurriedly ran to the back to Zhang Luo's meal. The old man beckoned us to sit down in turn, and we sat down beside the old man Erdesh respectfully, and he was busy and cheerfully took out a flute from the antique exotic cabinet with his somewhat calloused hands, which he called the Sul, and he said that he had made a tube of Sul from the reeds picked by the Kanas Lake, and they all called it "Mandalesi" The reeds are generally more than half a meter long, but with only three musical holes, the Sur flute is indeed unique and distinctive. He said that they Tuvans are born with a love of music and dance, and everyone can sing and dance well, because music can dispel sorrows, ignite happiness, and transport you to a distant and beautiful past. Then he took the flute with great interest, closed his wrinkled eyes slightly, and then put it to his lips with the workmanship of the sour, and played a string of beautiful music in a colorful voice, and he said that he played one of his best songs, called the beautiful Kanas. With the long and short exhalation of the air current, the old man's old and slender fingers moved skillfully and freely, which was incomparably wonderful, like the crisp and pleasant flute sound of the yellow warbler out of the valley immediately erupted, filling the entire wooden house, and in an instant, we seemed to have come to a dreamlike paradise. It seems to be like the night rain in Bashan, the oblique wind and drizzle, the small raindrops that flicker are ticking and ticking, fluttering, falling on the banana leaves, the rain hits the plantains, making a good sound of big beads and small beads falling on the jade plate, and it is like a warm wind blowing slightly through thousands of trees, and the leaves make a murmuring sound, which makes people can't help but think about it.

The old man just finished playing the flute, his wife came out of the back kitchen with enthusiasm, and suddenly the rice was fragrant, the aroma was fragrant, they politely served yogurt, milk wine, milk tea, milk lumps, ghee, oil cakes, oil sieves, etc., and suddenly the table was full of a large number of dazzling things to eat, we were dazzled, dizzying, the host told us not to be polite, to eat at will, it was really a warm and kind ethnic minority. The old man carefully poured the tea for us one by one, and then let us add the appropriate amount of ghee and milk skin in front of us according to our taste. We did as they did, and the fragrant ghee melted into the tea quickly, and a few golden oil flowers floated up, and the milk skin quickly soaked in the tea, floating softly on the surface of the tea, like duckweed in the water waves, full of poetic feeling.

We take a sip on the cup, suck the milk skin into our mouth, and as soon as we chew it, a wonderful sour taste spreads. It was so delicious, the taste was really unique, unforgettable, and soon the first bowl was tasted and drunk, and before we knew it, the old man immediately couldn't wait to add a second bowl to us. Then we drank it all up, and he told us in all seriousness that when you drink milk tea in a Tuvan house, you have to drink two bowls, because you walked in with two legs. After drinking two bowls of milk tea, you go out with two legs, so that your life will be auspicious and peaceful, and even the old man also introduced that he particularly likes two here, likes good things in pairs, and then the old man took out their best wine here, saying that they Tuvan people love to drink, especially love to drink home-brewed milk wine, the delicate skin full of milk wine is the beloved thing on the back of the men's horses, today is specially entertained for us distinguished guests from afar to drink, but after three rounds of wine, the old man's face was slightly red, and he became particularly talkative, he said that they are very strange in the local area, and you don't want to be surprised after you know。

For example, they Tuvans are fighting with red faces and red ears, and it seems that the two of them are fighting inextricably, with blue noses and swollen faces, and even feel so serious that they are about to die, but you remember, you just watch from the sidelines, don't have any reaction, don't do anything, just watch quietly, but if you don't understand the rules of Tuvan fighting, and want to go up and fight with kindness, the two don't say a word, they don't fight immediately, but come to beat you unexpectedly. It turns out that when two Tuvans fight, they want to fight for heroes, and if you go to pull them, they will think that you look down on the two of them, and your martial arts are stronger and your skills are higher, so they will fight you together. We leaned back and fell in laughter, and we felt that the habits of this place were so funny, so ridiculous, and luckily we hadn't encountered anything like this, otherwise we would have been beaten.

Then the old man continued to talk endlessly, tirelessly introducing all kinds of local people, customs and habits, he said that Tuvan men ride about two horses in their lives, they are Tuvans who grew up on horseback, and they like to ride horses and whips the most, and gallop with dreams in the endless wilderness of chasing dreams. And the age of 20 is a symbol of the Tuvan becoming a man, so the family prepared a horse for him, and he rode this horse back and forth in the Altai mountains, and at the age of 40, the first horse was ridden old, and the man began to ride the second horse of his life, and rode until he was old. So from 20 to 40 years old, the man rides the first horse in his life and wants to find a girl to be his wife, while the Tuvan boy chases the girl, he can only chase two, the first one does not chase the second, and this second must be successful, otherwise he may become a bachelor for life, lonely and old for life, and in the life of the Tuvans, there can be no horse. Horses are dependent, partners, and friends. Therefore, the Tuvan people cherish horses, understand horses, and have a set of good skills to control horses, so their Tuvan children began to practice riding horses when they learned to walk. At the age of seven, they can fly freely on horseback, ride horses and whips, and many times, they don't need to wave the saddle at all, they can gallop on the steppe, ride horses and whips, and even the usually taciturn Tuvans are immediately energetic and majestic as soon as they ride on their horses.

He also said that they especially like to drink in this place, "7 months of winter, 5 months of summer." This is a phrase that is often on the lips of the Tuvans. In winter, heavy snow cut the village off from the outside world, and alcohol became a dependence in life. Some people in their village once counted when they were idle and bored, and the people of Tuva village drank 45 tons of wine one year. Over time, the mountain of wine bottles behind each house has been built into a glass wall, and the sun shines brightly, so that the people here will happily drink for a lifetime, to say goodbye to the boring life of snow-covered mountains.

Then Hu Jiaojiao curiously asked them about the origin of the Tuvans, and the old man said that they themselves did not know, anyway, their ancestors had lived happily here for generations, and he was rooted here as soon as he was born, so the ancient books called them "Dubo" and "Bald Eight People". Some say that they are the descendants of Genghis Khan, according to legend, a long, long time ago Genghis Khan conquered the Western Regions, his second son Chagatai sent a vanguard force to open a road in the mountains, meet the water to build a bridge, later, this brave team in the Altai Mountains deep mountains and old forests lost their way, mysteriously disappeared. Later, there was a primitive tribe living on the shore of Kanas Lake, they took the mountains and forests as their home, lived by grazing and hunting, cut down the pine trees on the mountains to build wooden houses, peeled off thick animal skins to resist the cold, and used primitive cooking utensils to make fragrant milk wine, they did not intermarry with foreigners, did not fight with others, they lived leisurely and contentedly in Kanas for generations, and were called the people of the forest. And their own language, Tuvan, which is an ancient and rare language, belongs to the Turkic language group of the Altaic language family, is a living fossil of the language, only a few people, it is estimated that they Tuvan people can speak, but this old man himself left the village a few years ago, all over the country, and traveled north and south, so he can hear the Great Song language we speak, otherwise they will speak for a long time, and we will also listen to alien languages.