Section 19 I Came to the Colorful Gannan (I)

Zabuleng Monastery and Sangke Grassland

One: Say go, go to Gannan

Gannan tour has been very popular in recent years. Faced with the desirable monasteries and grasslands on the Gannan route, I was not moved. I've been to XC and QH, and as far as Tibetan monasteries are concerned, I've seen the four most famous monasteries. For grasslands, I've also been to the Xilamuren Grassland in Inner Mongolia. Coupled with the fact that I have been climbing SD beams and the meadows on Bald Mountain all year round, I think it is the most beautiful. Another reason is that the ride is too long, which is too hard for me to get motion sickness. To sum up, I didn't plan to go for a long time.

Just because I didn't make the trip doesn't mean I don't plan to go at all, but I had the idea of going there this year, but I didn't put it on the necessary itinerary. The reason is that I always have to travel to a place during the summer vacation, most of the mountains and rivers in the south I don't like, and I like this year's Spring Festival. Then, Gannan, a place with mountains and grasslands, is worth visiting when there is no better route to go.

In June and July, the most beautiful season in Gannan, I didn't make the trip because I went to Changbai Mountain, and I missed the itinerary of the group. The second phase of the outdoor was in mid-August, and I didn't want to go. Because at the end of July, the meadows in the Qinling Mountains are all flowering, and the grass is slightly yellow. Then, the Gannan grassland, which is higher than the Qinling Mountains, must be the same flower and grass old. For travel destinations, it must be in the most beautiful season, and for me, Gannan is not on this year's agenda.

However, on the 16th of August, the fat donkey was temporarily notified to go to Lanzhou for a meeting, and the time was set for the weekend. I didn't think much about it and decided to go together. I have been wanting to go to Lanzhou again for the past two years, and what attracted me to return was the beef ramen, which I ate in Lanzhou when I was 18 years old, and I thought it was the best noodle at the time, and the food impression left was so good. Also, I want to see what the places I visited look like years later.

After deciding to go to Lanzhou, you must go to Gannan by the way, and you can't go to Lanzhou just to eat a bowl of noodles. Although I know that it is not the most beautiful season in Gannan, it is also good to go to Gannan. After deciding, I immediately contacted the local travel agency and successfully signed up for a three-day tour of Gannan. Then book a high-speed rail to Lanzhou. So it's a walk-and-go trip.

Two: the same Lanzhou

Taking the high-speed train to Lanzhou at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, the scenery along the way did not evoke the memory of the previous time I took the train, but I only remember that time through the window, in the guidance of the adults, I saw a tall Buddha statue on the mountain. Didn't see it this time. But let me see that the high-speed rail is drilling caves most of the time, drilling too much, one bright and one dark, and the eyes are uncomfortable frequently (oh, the eyes suddenly decrease their light perception after coming back, which may have something to do with this), in the limited visibility time, I saw that the mountains here are very distinctive, basically all dirt mountains, the vegetation is very good, and there are many fruit trees.

Three hours later, I arrived in Lanzhou at a little over six o'clock in the afternoon. Walk out of the West Railway Station and take the bus to the Feitian Hotel next to Lanzhou University. The car basically passes through Lanzhou City from east to west. I stared out the window and saw not what I had expected. This city is not familiar to me, but it allows me to see the familiar cityscape. I see the same old days, and it feels like time has stood still here. At that time, I thought Lanzhou was more fashionable than Xi'an, and people were dressed more foreign than Xi'an.

For this reason, I lamented in the car that Lanzhou has not kept pace with the development of the country. The driver said: Yes, there are prosperous places. Surrounded by mountains and rivers, Lanzhou's geographical location limits the development of the city.

Actually, I don't dislike Lanzhou for looking a little outdated, but I hope it develops better!

After settling in at the hotel, we didn't go for a reception meal, but urgently went to the Zhengning Road Night Market to eat food. Of course, before you go, you should go to the meeting point in Gannan tomorrow morning to make sure that the trip will be smooth tomorrow. Fortunately, it's on the same street, the bus passenger center next to the Lanzhou Railway Station. Then, go straight to Zhengning Road.

The night market on Zhengning Road is placed on the street frontage, and it looks very simple. And the scale is very large, the stalls on both sides of a street are connected, the lights are bright, the diners are full, and the voices are boiling, which is exactly like a market. I walked from the east to the west of the street in a hurry, swept around, and searched all to see what was delicious. The purpose of this is not to let go of a delicacy, which can effectively avoid giving up many rare dishes due to a small stomach.

As a result, after a trip, I didn't find anything that made my mouth water, which was too surprising. It can't be a trip for nothing. So, I bought a bowl in front of the long line of milk mash stalls, and after eating half of it, I decided to put it down. Then I made up my mind to ask for a haggis. Because it is the same as the mash, it is highly recommended on CCTV's 2 sets. Another thing is that I have never eaten it.

I really didn't expect this bowl of haggis to be so delicious that I must praise it. There is no anger at all, it is very delicious, and the name is well deserved. It's just that a small portion of 30 yuan is a bit expensive!

At this point, my Lanzhou night market sweeping the streets ended with satisfaction in the center of this delicious haggis soup.

It may be the only food I like in this bowl of night market that leaves a good impression, after returning to Lanzhou, in the same meal eaten in another house, the portion is large and the price is low, and there is no smell, but it is far less delicious than Zhengning Road, and I don't want to take a second bite after eating a bite. It seems that if you want to eat the top snacks, you have to go to Zhengning Road.

Three: An unexpected vignette

The departure time to Gannan is 8 o'clock in the morning, which I really like. Unlike in JL, where there is a five-o'clock meeting every day. Because I explored the road in advance last night, I arrived at the meeting point half an hour early. In advance, I was able to sit in the first row, which was so important to me who was suffering from motion sickness. After arriving in Lanzhou yesterday, I discussed with the tour guide for a while before agreeing to leave me a place, but the tour guide asked me to go as early as possible.

This time, he sat in the first row smoothly. However, not long after I arrived at LX County, my mobile phone fell into the windshield gap in front of me, and I started the mode of fishing for my mobile phone, and I was irritable. The friends who sat with him had small hands, and they stretched out their hands over and over again, but they couldn't reach them. It was also futile to ask the children in the car to help. When I got to the service area in a hurry, I saw another thinner child and hurriedly called for help, but I still couldn't get it. I went to the service area again and asked the staff for a fire tongs, but I couldn't catch them. Seeing that he couldn't clip it for a while, he decided to buy this fire tongs and clip it slowly. At this moment, the man who was helping next to him dropped the tongs into the company of his mobile phone.

Alas, it's really a leak in the house and even rainy. Now it's even more important to pay for it quickly. As a result, the service staff didn't want any money, what a good person in Gannan. When I got back to the car, the man hooked the tongs with a branch.

The car moved on. The territory of LXHZ Zhizhou seems to be beautiful with water and fertilizer, crops are growing well, and there are many medicinal herb plantations, and the hillsides where the lily land is struck by the eyes are all there. I have eaten lilies many times, and it is the first time I have seen lily plants, and it is the first time I know that they are perennials, and the root fruit of lilies is a year. No wonder lilies are so expensive, and we eat garlic-sized lilies for more than five years. However, I saw these rare plants in a hundred gardens, but I saw them half-heartedly.

All the way, I was anxious to think about how to catch it, I was depressed and crazy, and I took the fire tongs and clamped it up again and again, but I couldn't clamp it at all, and it rumbled. Facing the sound of tinkering over the driver's head, I was worried that it would affect the driver driving below, so I couldn't fight continuously. The tour guide also kept coming over and put his hand down to fish, but they were all disappointed when they looked at the shadow of the mobile phone on the glass.

The car has arrived in XH County, the scenery outside the window is charming, the grassland and mountains in the field of vision are green, from the roadside green to the top of the mountain, the grass is green and lush, and the river is floating on the grassland like a jade belt, all the mountains are green pastures, sheep are happy, yaks are herds, there are many dizzying, the grassland is full of yaks grazing. As far as the eye can see, there is a prosperous scene on the grassland with beautiful grass and water. The tour guide said that in June, there are 10,000 acres of rape flowers in full bloom, which is beautiful and magnificent, and has become a golden flower mountain.

The vast green fields used to be my favorite, but if I used to take pictures through the glass, I was now absent-minded and worried. There is so much important content on the phone.

The man from Linxia said that yaks could graze over the top of the mountain. Now the grass is dense and lush, and they can eat enough at the bottom of the slope. He showed it to me, but I didn't want to look at it more.

The tour guide came to collect the fee for watching the Tibetan performance in the Sanko grassland at his own expense that night. I was annoyed and told her that I had no cash and had to pay on my phone. After the little tour guide collected all the money from the driver, he went down and talked to the driver and said to me, "Don't worry, the driver has adhesive tape there, and when it stops after a while, it can be glued out by sticking it to the fire tongs." "I was a little amused and wanted to laugh. Because when the phone just dropped, the driver told me that it was impossible to pick it up. I also know it's unlikely to stick up.

Seeing that I will be in XH County in more than ten minutes, my mood is extremely bad. I turned my head and told my companion who was sitting by the window that he had been bitten by a snake last night, and it seemed that the trip to Gannan was unpleasant. The companion smiled and said: I will definitely be able to catch it, if I really can't catch it, I can take a picture of you.

Hey, I suddenly noticed that the big windshield in front of me was connected to the window with some curvature, and I immediately reached down to probe, and sure enough, it was shallower than the middle of the current fall. Hurriedly pushed the mobile phone to the side with fire tongs, stretched out his hand hard, and actually touched the mobile phone, but he couldn't clip it out. At this time, the tour guide came and said that her fingers were long. She stretched it out, and with a few rings, she took out her phone!

I'm in a good mood, so hurry up and transfer the cost of tonight's show to the tour guide!

Four: Visit Labrang Monastery

At noon, we arrived at the county town of XH in the state of GNCZ and settled down at the Labrang Hotel and walked into a local ramen restaurant with a large bowl of ramen for six yuan. Maybe it's because of the high altitude, I felt that the noodles were a little raw after taking a bite, so I didn't eat them again, and the soup was so delicious. Her companion is from Lanzhou, and she said that the soup here can be added casually. This is great, I drank two large bowls of pure yak meat soup, so that I, who already loves to drink beef soup, have a beautiful addiction. Then, I always felt a little embarrassed, so many people dining, I asked for another bowl of soup. I walked over to the cook and said, I'll pay for another one. The Tibetan master said, "No, we have a lot of beef soup here." ”

At two o'clock in the afternoon, I arrived at the first point of this Gannan trip - Labrang Monastery.

Before entering the temple, pass through the prayer wheel corridor. In the wooden corridor is a row of large red prayer cylinders with bright patterns, and believers and visitors step on the bluestone pavement to turn the prayers. Standing at the starting point, I saw a rolling red stream of prayer tubes, no matter whether there were people in front of the prayer cylinders and whether there were people in front of them again, as long as the predecessors turned them, they kept turning, and more often than not, the long flow of people followed the red flow of the prayer cylinders. Watching the prayer cylinder turn forward from the starting point without stopping, as if it was to send the believers or guide the believers forward.

I followed the crowd as I turned the prayer wheel, and my heart was filled with joy. I feel that it is the most accurate interpretation of "rolling torrents carrying red dust", so I am very happy. I don't know if it's disrespectful for me to say this, but I'm just telling what I really felt at the time.

Entering Labrang Monastery, which is built on the hillside, you intuitively feel like a village. This is the feeling of too many short narrow alleys, all of which are closed to white walls and red roofs, and after learning that they are all the homes of the lamas who practice here, it makes me feel that this is a village, made up of lamas. When I came here, I read the information on the Internet, and said that Labrang Monastery is the highest institution of Tibetan Buddhism. However, looking at the many lamas who came to the monastery, the old and the young, it was exactly the same as three generations of grandparents living here. The old people sat on the ground at the entrance of the alley and chatted, and the middle-aged lama held a book and hung a bag, as if he was studying. The children, who were also dressed in red-clothed lama clothes, sat on the low wall with their schoolbags on their backs and played around, which showed that they had just finished school.

All this seems to be so harmonious and happy. The faces of every lama they met were filled with calm joy. When I walked, it was like a purple-red breeze drifting by, fresh and natural. In contrast, we from all over the world seem to have forcibly disturbed this quiet country that does not belong to us. The small square and the main hall are full of tourists with strong Peugeot. This Peugeot is in a hurry, with uncertain eyes.

Probably because I have been to XC's temple and QH's Ta'er Temple, Labrang Monastery as a whole did not make me feel as awe-inspiring as when I went to other temples, but I always had a relaxing and natural excitement. The white walls and red rooms of Taer Temple left a very good impression on me. The year I visited, the Taal Monastery had just been reopened to the public after repairs. The white wall is the whitest I've ever seen. The paintings on the rafter's eaves are bright and beautiful, and the appearance of the entire Ta'er Temple is beaming with joy, like a new house welcoming newcomers. In contrast, Labrang Monastery is a bit old in appearance, it is a long-ago existence, with villages and schools. Walking in, it is like the return of a wanderer.

We began to visit the main halls under the guidance of professor-like lamas in the monastery. The master spoke very well. When I looked up at the walls of several halls and piled up walls of handwritten scriptures, and listened to the explanations of the erudite masters, I felt a sense of reverence.

It's just that I'm really lonely. When I walked into a large hall and saw that among the enshrined Buddha statues was the 14th Panchen Rinny Chokyi Gyaltsen, I blurted out to the master that this was the place I had been here many years ago when I came to XC. The master said, "You are going to Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, not here, and it is far away from our Labrang Monastery."

As soon as I heard the master, he was right. The Tibetan temples are very similar, all of them are high-rise halls, and the real Buddha statues make it difficult for me, a layman, to distinguish where they come from.

The master led us into all the halls that we could visit. We also seem to understand what we listen to, and our admiration in the process is from beginning to end.

This is the beautiful impression that Labrang Monastery left on me. I love this quiet and peaceful temple village surrounded by mountains, sitting on the top of the mountain with a sea of clouds and white clouds!

Five: Listen to the most beautiful singing on the Sanke grassland

After leaving Labrang Monastery, drive for half an hour to the Sanke grassland. After parking, everyone flew to the savannah like birds.

The mulberry grassland is endless, and the meadows are green to the horizon. Walking through the grasslands is like being in a green world. The grassland is too vast, and the vast tourists are like birds perched on the grassland and playing. People from afar are in a flying mood on the grassland, expressing their inner joy to the fullest. There are those who cheer that the grassland is too beautiful, those who are excited on the grassland, and those who wander with their friends, and every face is liked. It's more about taking pictures, and the grassland is full of tourists who are taking art blockbusters or photo albums, all of them are full of energy, and their expressions are more in place than professional actors.

I was even more excited to pick up the white Hada and dedicate it to the grassland to the blue sky and white clouds. I crawled on the grassland again, close to the grassland at zero distance, greedily smelling the unique grass fragrance of the grassland, letting the grass fragrance soak my dress, drunk on the grassland and not thinking of returning. Then, I happily posed with my friends, so that our happy appearance was fixed on the picturesque Sanke grassland. All this is so joyful, happily smiling brightly on every photo, completely relieved and sincere, not for the sake of shooting. The beauty of the Sanke grassland makes our hearts return to innocence, and they are all lovely and handsome!

Then, I sat quietly on the grassland and watched the sunset on the grassland. August 18 is already a light autumn, the grass tips on the high-altitude mulberry grassland have turned yellowish, and the flowers are a little grateful, all of them are on the top of the fruit pods, and it is impossible to imagine the brilliance of their flowers. Compared with the flowers blooming on the grassland in June and July, the grassland at that time was like dressing the earth with the most beautiful flower dress. However, when the light of the setting sun shines on the grassland, the grass is golden, and the Sanko grassland is a sea of golden light. The sunset also whitewashed the faces of the people on the grassland and made their faces golden and brilliant, this moment was so wonderful, so beautiful that they just wanted to laugh.

When the sun hides in the distant mountains behind the grassland, the night begins on the grassland, and the temperature is also very low. Visitors walk into the inn on the Sanko grassland like returning birds.

We're not resting, though. It's about a grand cabaret show.

It was the first time I saw an evening performed entirely by Tibetan singers. The Tibetan actors' singing voices are loud and beautiful, just like the sound of nature. The dancing posture is exquisite, singing and dancing. The whole party was a feast for the eyes and ears, drawing the most beautiful end to our trip to the Sanke grassland. The night of the Sangke grassland has become the most wonderful night in this Gannan tour.

When the dance is over, people are still immersed in the beautiful song and dance, and they can't calm down for a long time.

Goodbye, the vast Sanko savannah. If I come again, I will definitely date the most beautiful flower grassland when the grassland becomes a sea of flowers.

The accommodation at the Labrang Royal Mansion Hotel in XH County almost sleepless night, so it is classified as a high anti.

At seven o'clock in the morning, XH County was silent. In the small square not far from the hotel, I saw more than a dozen middle-aged women dancing with the singing. It turns out that this is a square dance with ethnic characteristics, and their outfits should be non-ethnic minorities working here. It's also about moving forward with things and adapting to local conditions.

Except for the group of people who got up early to exercise, through the entire XH county, there were so few people that they could count, less than ten. For me, who goes to bed late and wakes up late, I like this lifestyle.

After watching the show and bonfire party in the Sanko grassland last night, it was already more than ten o'clock in the evening when I returned to the hotel. When I entered XH County, I found that there were two national flags hanging on the street lamp poles on both sides of the road, and the style of the national flag was similar to the size of the advertisements on the street lamp poles in mainland cities. At that time, it was believed that the reason why our station was near the county government was to guide Tibetans who could not read Chinese characters and facilitate service services. When I left today, I took a completely different route in and out of XH County twice yesterday, and it was through the county seat.

I saw all the light poles on both sides of the road lined with bright five-star red flags. This is the only city I have been to in China where the streetlight poles on both sides of the streets of the entire county town are all decorated with five-star red flags. It makes the whole county less commercial and more peaceful. When passing through a commercial street of Tibetan-style buildings, when you see the tall, neat, and uniform shops, you feel how harmonious it is with the five-star red flag all over the city.

Cathay Pacific can make the people safe, stable can live in peace, and living in peace and contentment is the common yearning of the people of all nationalities.

Here, I wish XH County, which left a good impression on me, as well as Labrang Monastery and Sanke Grassland in Xiahe, to be prosperous forever, and all ethnic groups are united as a family.