Chapter 056: Dimensional Cropping
Generally speaking, there are many steps that need to be taken from the design to the cutting of the entire garment.
The first step is the renderings, which are the fashion paintings that Lin Zhengrong painted in the office of Dean Zhang Yaojie before.
Of course, renderings are not just hand-drawn fashion paintings, now computer technology is almost integrated into every step of the entire clothing design, so renderings are often realized by computer graphic software.
As for whether it is hand-drawn or software design, it depends on the designer's own habits to decide.
There is no particular definition between the two.
After the renderings are completed, it is also necessary to draw a flat layout.
After these two steps are completed, the cropping begins.
The tailoring methods of modern clothing can be roughly divided into two categories: three-dimensional tailoring and flat tailoring.
In plane cutting, the common ones are proportional cutting, D-style cutting and prototype cutting.
Among them, the original reduction method is widely used in the international garment industry.
Many countries and regions in Europe, the United States and Asia have their own prototypes, and although the data for their mapping are different, the methods used are basically the same.
It is said that the prototype reduction method has a greater impact on our country, which is due to the fact that there is little difference in the body size of women in China and Japan. Since entering China in the 80s, it has been quickly accepted by China's clothing industry and clothing education industry.
In fact, not only the cutting method, but also the fashion design concept and teaching method in China, which has been greatly influenced by the book, and even many of the textbooks of the fashion college are translated from the textbooks of the school of culture.
Whether you admit it or not, when it comes to clothing design, I am indeed ahead of the country, which is why Tokyo can be called one of the fifth most fashionable capitals.
In clothing design, plane cutting is the most widely used, and general clothing production is plane cutting.
Because plane cutting is based on the experience of predecessors, first drawing, paper patterns, and then through the cutting of the pleats and residual processing to obtain the three-dimensional shape of the clothes, it requires a strong spatial imagination.
In addition to flat tailoring, there is also three-dimensional tailoring, which is a technical term with rich meanings and is frequently used in the fashion industry.
According to the written explanation, three-dimensional tailoring is based on the design concept of using grey cloth close to the actual fabric performance, and tools such as pins directly on the mannequin or human body, to give the grey cloth an appropriate amount of relaxation and use the folding of various reasonable pleats, pleats, darts and dividing lines to make a variety of shapes of cutting.
To put it bluntly, the so-called three-dimensional tailoring actually refers to the technology of using white grey cloth as a common substitute to directly shape the clothing style on the stage and make a model.
Why is it white grey cloth, the reason is very simple, because this is the cheapest, in fact, it is not the same as white grey cloth, even if it is white paper, this process is actually pattern making.
Of course, unlike flat cutting, which requires a variety of sewing machine tailors, at the beginning, three-dimensional tailoring was first placed on the table with white grey cloth, during which a pin was needed to fix the shape.
Vertical cutting directly on the model to get the modeling, and then into a piece of clothing, paper patterns, more intuitive, but the cost is relatively high, in this aspect, the plane cutting cost control is better, of course, three-dimensional cutting is more suitable for novices to learn, get started quickly, many times do not need to look at the paper pattern.
However, when making dresses or fashions, it is more necessary to make three-dimensional cuts.
After all, three-dimensional tailoring is an intuitive operation process that designers mainly rely on vision, so theoretically speaking, you can cut how you want, and there are not so many rules and regulations to restrict, which is the most popular among fashion designers.
Generally speaking, in order to facilitate memory, three-dimensional tailoring is also referred to as "vertical tailoring", of course, three-dimensional tailoring is a concept in China, which is called "three-dimensional tailoring" in the original language, and is called "copying close tailoring" in France, and is called "covering tailoring" in Britain and the United States.
From this point, it can also be seen that the domestic concept of three-dimensional cutting is very similar to the book.
In fact, vertical tailoring is a concept relative to flat tailoring. Although vertical cutting may also be an extension and deepening of plane cutting, it has formed a set of operating techniques and procedures in teaching and research, which can be regarded as a supplement to plane cutting.
There are not so many rules and regulations, and designers can let their creativity and design style be unleashed.
Therefore, if a fashion designer has a solid foundation in pattern making and a certain personal style, then he will definitely be able to shine in the fashion industry.
In Yenching Fashion Institute, tailoring is a practical course, not only for dresses, in fact, suits or shirts can also be used for tailoring, especially some custom suits, many times are used tailoring.
Lin Zhengrong in his freshman year, he has already begun to contact tailoring, after so many years of practice, and went to a lot of clothing factories and design studios for internships, his personal skills are enough for him to cope with general fashion tailoring.
It really doesn't need the help of other people, which is why the two girls left just now.
Of course, their clothes also need to be modified, and it can be said that the clothes are always being modified before the costume works are staged.
In fact, there is also a process of evolution in the development of legislative adjudication.
This modeling means was born and developed with the development of clothing civilization, and Western clothing is a classification of clothing modeling into three stages: non-molding, semi-forming and molding.
Each stage represents the development of the history of Western clothing, and three-dimensional tailoring was born in the third period of clothing development, that is, the Gothic period in history.
Subsequently, it was gradually developed in the process of customization of clothing, because customized clothing requires a high degree of fit, so it is inevitable to carry out three-dimensional cutting based on the actual human body, and this method has been used until today's haute couture production.
Of course, the development process of three-dimensional cutting is not what Lin Zhengrong should be concerned about now.
He now needs to use drasteo tailoring to complete his finished design.
After all, the scope of adaptation of vertical tailoring is very wide, it belongs to a kind of soft sculpture, if the clothing style, the need for irregular shape of folds, waves and other forms, these must use three-dimensional tailoring.
The reason is simple, this kind of fabric that needs to be pleated, draped, draped, and draped simply cannot be designed with a flat structure.
Moreover, in terms of fabrics, soft, soft, thin, poor fixing performance, and good draping effect fabrics can only be used for three-dimensional tailoring.
Unfortunately, all the fabrics prepared by Lin Zhengrong before belong to this category.
Because he needs either silk or organza or chiffon, the characteristics of this kind of fabric are not only soft, soft, thin, but also very poor in fixation.
However, there is another feature, which is that the draping effect is particularly good.
So the selection that suits him is actually not much, it can only be vertical tailoring.