Chapter 4 Sugar Dipping

Zhang Zhaohua was overjoyed when he learned about the existence of cream, came out of the middle hall, and rushed into the dining room. Pen, fun, and www.biquge.info

After seeing the so-called cream, Zhang Zhaohua was even more overjoyed, although this cream is still not completely segregated, but at least it has the appearance of cream, although it smells heavy, and it tastes sour and sticky, but it is indeed pure cream, but people are not very good at eating it now, and Zhang Zhaohua is confident that he can show his hand at this point.

Zhang Zhaohua first instructed the stove to boil green tea and jasmine soup, and then scooped up a pound of cream and put it in a copper pot to slowly melt, with the proportion of four cups of tea, mixed with green tea juice with jasmine fragrance, heated to boiling and then patiently boiled for a while, and after the fire was extinguished, the room was full of fragrance, it was not the original indescribable sour taste at all, and the chefs and ladies in the place were all praised. When they each drank a small bowl, they were all amazed.

"Such a blend," said a chef, "I can't smell any of the original sour milky flowers, but look at the color, the snow is frosty, the smell, blowing the orchid, the taste is deep into the heart, more thick and sweet than the taste of many cooked water and thirsty water-dare to ask Niangniang, if you put it in the ordinary cooked water, is it so delicious?"

"It should be," Zhang Zhaohua said with a smile: "I only know this one, and I haven't tried other cooked water, so you can try it from now on." ”

"Sure enough," everyone praised, "it's a good drink!"

"It's not just drinking," Zhang Zhaohua laughed: "There are a lot of foods made with milk flowers." ”

One of Zhang Zhaohua's needs to make is steamed cheese with sugar, and the other is snails with ghee.

Let's talk about sugar steamed cheese first, this thing is not the kind that later generations eat, what is the appearance of what later generations eat, it is a finished product that is steamed out of milk, wine and rock sugar to form a semi-coagulated state, in fact, this practice was passed out in the middle of the Qing Dynasty, before that, especially in the notes of the Ming Dynasty, the crisp cheese is not milk, but a cream product.

In the Buddhist scriptures, when it is said that Daigo empowerment is explained, it is said that "for example, milk comes from cows, cheese comes from milk, cheese comes from cheese, crisp comes from cheese, crisp comes out of raw crisp, and ripe crisp comes out of Daigo." Daigo is the top, if there is a person who takes it, all diseases will be removed. ”

Milk from cows is milked milk, cheese from milk is processed milk or yogurt, like the Tang Dynasty people love to eat sugar cheese poured with cherries, that is, the cherries are pitted and poured with cheese cane syrup, so "cheese" specifically refers to milk and yogurt. Crisp from cheese is to extract oil from milk -- this "crisp" is very particular.

What is raw crisp, is cream, which is the thing in front of Zhang Zhaohua, and what is cooked crisp, which is to stir the cream violently, just like the Tibetan and Mongolian people "beat ghee", so that the protein membrane of the milk fat globule in the milk bursts and the milk fat flows out. When the fat in the milk gathers together, the milk loses its milky white color, and the milk fat shows its original color, pale yellow.

What is the final crystallization of the cooked pastry, is butter.

But know that butter is not just about separating the upper fat, it needs to be salted and pressed to remove the water before it can become butter for daily consumption. The bucket of cream in front of Zhang Zhaohua is actually yellow, and there is a prototype of butter, but because there is no salt and no water, it is still crispy in nature, that is, cream.

It is said that Daigo is the essence extracted from butter, and it is also said that the people of Dali, Yunnan Province eat a kind of tofu residue that is refined from **, and the same thing is Daigo.

Add osmanthus rice wine, rock sugar, almond slices, raisins and walnut kernels to the cream, boil it and add a lid to steam it in water, this is the real sugar steamed cheese. Osmanthus rice wine can also be replaced with flower dew, which is the recipe of the famous gourmand Zhang Dai in the Ming Dynasty.

As for the ghee snail, it is a sweet made of cream that looks like a snail, which appeared in "Golden Vase Plum", and when Zhang Dai reached the end of the Ming Dynasty, it was even more popular.

Some say that ghee snails appeared in Lin'an in the Southern Song Dynasty, and some say that they only existed in the middle of the Ming Dynasty, in short, Zhang Zhaohua has two ways to make ghee snails, the first is to directly use cream and honey, mix with sucrose and stir and so on, after condensation, squeeze onto the plate, while squeezing, while rotating, the bottom is round, the top is pointed, and the thread is round and round - however, such an attempt failed.

The cream cannot be formed, and without the corresponding tools for squeezing the cream, the squeezed out circles of threads are not only uneven, but also unsightly. Zhang Zhaohua immediately tried the production method of ghee snails recorded in the second Lu cuisine: 1 kg of flour, 5 taels of cream, made into puff pastry, kneaded into abalone snails, and pinched out of spirals on the edges, and then fried or baked until golden brown.

In Zhang Zhaohua's view, this thing, except for the spiral on the edge, is like a puff, and like a cream flower decorated on a cake, a small vortex and a whirl.

Zhang Zhaohua couldn't go into battle in person, so she was also directing people next to her, but the skills of these chefs in the restaurant made her breathtaking, she said that like a snail, these people really pinched out the shape of a snail for her.

put it on the pot and steamed it, Zhang Zhaohua remembered a famous dim sum, Saqima.

Saqima is Shaqima, a variety of names, transliterated like this, there is no accurate head, it is the food of the Manchu people. After the Manchus entered the customs, it became popular in Beijing and became one of the Beijing-style four-season pastries.

Saqima is not difficult to make, with eggs, fat and noodles, finely cut and fried, and then stirred with caramel and honey, home self-made is very easy, Zhang Zhaohua's grandmother will do this in the last life, Zhang Zhaohua has never started, but I have seen a lot, and the process is remembered clearly.

Zhang Zhaohua wants to make Saqima, with eggs as the main raw material, the ingredients are still relatively complex, there are fine flour, dry noodles, eggs, honey, raw oil, sugar, gold cake, caramel sugar, raisins, green plums, melon kernels, sesame seeds, osmanthus flowers, etc., the back are all embellishments, mainly on the dough.

Beat the eggs with water, add the flour and knead into a dough. After the dough rests for two quarters of an hour, cut it into thin slices with a knife, then cut it into small thin strips, put in the thin noodles after the oil is hot, and when it is fried until yellow-white, remove it and drain it for later use.

"Put the sugar water in a pot and bring to a boil, add the starch sugar, honey and osmanthus flowers," Zhang Zhaohua instructed, "until you pull out the monofilament with your fingers." ”

After the syrup is boiled, the fried noodles are mixed with a layer of syrup, and a layer of sesame seeds is spread in the wooden frame of the mold, the thin noodles are poured into the wooden frame and flattened, sprinkled with nuts, and then cut with a knife while hot, and let it cool to become a saqima.

The first pot of Saqima can be called perfect, the color is light yellow, the color is bright, and it tastes sweet and crispy, everyone is simply amazed by Zhang Zhaohua, but after making it twice, the color of Saqima is black.

"It's the reason why you put more eggs and less eggs," Zhang Zhaohua said very clearly: "If you put too many eggs, they taste fragrant, but the color is black; if you put too few eggs, the color is good-looking, but the taste is not fragrant." ”

Saqima hasn't finished eating it yet, the ghee snail is also baked, take out one and taste it, Zhang Zhaohua thinks it's okay, the side of the roast is a little mushy, in short, the entrance is crispy, that is to say, the ghee snail she used this method is not the kind of fertile lungs and heart, melt in the mouth, like honey mentioned in "Golden Vase Plum", since it is not a ghee snail, Zhang Zhaohua did not dare to give the exact same name, so he took a name like "****".

As for Saqima, Zhang Zhaohua's grandmother said that the Chinese name of this thing is called sugar dipping.