【Chapter 008】 Cured ham
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4o pork legs are lined up on the dam, white, and it is spectacular!
"Xiaofeng, this is to marinate ham?"
After coming out of the bacon room, the banquets, cutlery, stoves, etc. on the dam had been cleaned up, and only a row of eight immortal tables were left together, on which were the cut pork legs. The villagers and Xiao family members who had the banquet just now have also left, and only Xiao Feng's family and the tourists who are watching are left on the dam.
Xue Husheng once went to Wuzhou in the south of the Yangtze River to collect style, and knew about the world-famous Wuzhou ham, and also knew that the Yuwu ham in southern Yunnan was called the two major hams in the north and south of China, but he came to Ginkgo Village for more than half a month, but he didn't know that there was also a tradition of making zuò ham here.
"As early as more than 1,000 years ago, the ethnic minorities in western Yunnan learned to cure ham to preserve meat, and our ancestors also inherited the traditional craftsmanship here after migrating here from the Central Plains!" Xiao Feng nodded and said, "But I haven't done it myself, so I can only watch from the side." ”
In the Nanzhao millennium Bai ancient village of Nuodeng which is less than 2oo kilometers away from the straight line distance of Ginkgo Village, it was once an important economic town on the ancient tea horse road in western Yunnan. After the liberation, due to the rise of Haiyan, Nuodeng gradually disappeared from people's sight, just like the many material distribution centers on the Ancient Tea Horse Road.
However, the technique of curing ham by the Nuodeng people spread along with the Ancient Tea Horse Road, and took deep roots in Ginkgo Village, and gradually became one of the traditions of Ginkgo Village.
"Then I'm going to have a good pat on the back!" The process of curing ham in Ginkgo Village is a traditional technique inherited from the previous year. Where can Xue Husheng, who is very interested in intangible heritage, sit still?
Today, when more and more traditional foods and handicrafts are gradually replaced by large-scale industrial production, and the goods on the market are the same, it is rare to see a village like Ginkgo Village that still adheres to tradition.
Xue Husheng is worried that under the strong impact of the market economy, these primitive lifestyles in Ginkgo Village will disappear one day, and it is only right to take the opportunity to record them now.
The technical director of cured ham is Xiao Jinhao, Xiao Jinxu, Xiao Jinming, Xiao Jun, and Xiao Jian are the main forces, and Xiao Tao and Xiao Feng are working on the side and learning by the way.
After Xiao Jinxu and the others washed their hands, they first used an awl to prick a few holes in some parts of the pork leg. Then massage vigorously and squeeze the pork leg. The action is quite neat.
"Third master, why do you want to pierce the hole?" Xiao Feng was a little curious and asked.
In previous years, when the family was curing ham, Xiao Feng was not in Ginkgo Village. He knows more about ham for its deliciousness. Nothing is known about the rest.
"The purpose of piercing and massaging is to squeeze out the blood in the pork leg. This keeps the inside of the pork leg dry and easy to preserve. Regarding Xiao Feng's question, Xiao Jinhao explained in great detail.
Don't look at the two actions of piercing holes and massage, it is very simple. But it's not easy to do it well.
First of all, you need to find the location of the artery on the pig's leg, so that you can squeeze out the residual blood as much as possible; In addition, the massage technique should be uniform and gentle, so as not to destroy the texture of the pork, so as not to affect the final taste of the ham.
Although the ham curing process of the Xiao family has been inherited from Nuodeng, it has evolved and improved over the centuries and has developed its own style.
Xiao Jinhao is also one of the celebrities in the catering industry in Yunxi County, and he has had the opportunity to taste the slightly well-known ham at home and abroad. Putting aside the subjective factors, Xiao Jinhao still feels that his ham tastes more mellow and has better quality.
The reason for this is that in addition to the fact that the raw materials used by Xiaojia ham are grassland free-range black pigs and a suitable climate, the craftsmanship and details of making zuò are also very important.
In addition to Xiao Jinxu's four main forces, Xiao Tao and Xiao Dazhi have also participated in the process of making ham, and they are also quite familiar with the process of squeezing blood water, and they are also in battle. Of course, in the process of squeezing and massaging, Xiao Jinxu and others still have to give necessary guidance to a few juniors.
Soon, all 4o pork legs were bled and ready to enter the second process.
Xiao Qiang took out a wine jar from the warehouse of the old mansion, and as soon as he opened the seal, Xiao Feng felt a strong fragrance coming to his face.
"This jar of rice wine was brewed 5 years ago, and it has been sealed in the cellar, and it was only taken out yesterday!" Xiao Jinhao scooped half a cup with a small cup, handed it to Xiao Feng, and said, "You taste it and see how it tastes?" ”
Xiao Feng took it and took a sip, the wine was viscous like glycerin, smooth in the throat, without any spicy flavor backlash, and what was even more rare was that it seemed to contain a faint grassy aroma.
"It's much better than Moutai and Wuliangye on the market, and my stomach is warm!" Xiao Feng never knew that there was still such a good wine at home.
"These rice wines are selected glutinous rice, sorghum, corn, barley and other crops after steaming, adding our Xiao family's special herbs and koji, fermented, distilled and cellared for five years, which is not comparable to industrial products!" Xiao Jinhao smiled a little proudly and said: "Rubbing the pork leg with this rice wine can not only take out the smell of the pork leg itself, but also make the finished ham more fragrant, this is our Xiao family's unique secret recipe!" ”
The Xiao family has been inherited for hundreds of years and has formed a complete set of technical inheritance systems, although Xiao Feng may not be willing to inherit these technologies, but Xiao Jinhao is obliged to introduce some of them to the patriarch's successor.
After listening to Xiao Jinhao's words, Xiao Feng was already a little powerless to complain!
He never imagined that his ancestors would be able to develop this luxurious ham-making process in an era when supplies were extremely scarce. Not to mention anything else, just this jar of wine, when it is known, must be willing to buy it at a high price, and in the Xiao family, it is just one of the accessories used to marinate ham.
After Xue Husheng, who was busy taking pictures on the side, heard Xiao Jinhao's explanation, he was also impressed by the Xiao family, and the concept of 'never getting tired of eating, not getting tired of being fine' was really thoroughly implemented in the Xiao family.
Even if Xue Husheng was well-informed, he couldn't imagine that in the mountainous area of the southwest border, there was actually such a century-old family as the Xiao family.
These days, whether it is the exquisite luxury of the Xiao family's old mansion or the investment scale of the Jinghu system, Xue Husheng has left a deep impression on the Xiao family. Now looking at the complex process of ham curing and the exquisite raw materials, Xue Husheng is even more emotional.
"This salt doesn't seem to be the same as the iodized salt we usually eat?" At this time, Xue Husheng noticed that Xiao Hai was carrying a large bucket of salt and came over.
These salts are not as delicate as ordinary salt, and the coarse particles are a bit like the coarse salt that Xue Husheng saw when he was a child.
"This is the potash we bought from the thousand-year-old salt well in Nuodeng, which is an important factor that distinguishes our Xiao family ham from other hams!" Xiao Jinhao grabbed a handful of salt grains and introduced: "Even if you put too much potassium salt, it will not make the meat of the ham bitter, which is quite important for the ham made with a large amount of salt!" ”
Xiao Jinhao explained to Xiao Feng and Xue Husheng some precautions and details in the process of making zuò, Xiao Jinxu and the others did not stop, they quickly soaked the whole pork leg with rice wine, and then began to sprinkle salt on it, and kept massaging.
This process is also extremely important, massage can allow the rice wine and salt to fully penetrate into the inside of the pork leg, avoid the growth of ** bacteria, and at the same time, it can absorb the flavor. At this time, Xiao Tao and a few other juniors could only sprinkle salt and pour wine on the side, and if they wanted to operate independently, they would need several years of observation and learning.
After the whole process, the pork leg is coated with a thick layer of well salt, which also announces the end of a paragraph of ham curing. Next, these preliminarily processed pork legs will be put into the Xiao family's ham cellar, marinated for half a month, and then proceed to the next process.
"Uncle Xue, are you interested in going to the cellar with us to have a look?" Seeing that Xiao Tao and the others were neatly stacking the pork legs in a special wooden barrel, Xiao Feng invited Xue Husheng.
Compared with ordinary people, the Xiao family's ham cellar is extremely large, and Xiao Feng's move is somewhat conspicuous.
"Okay!" Xue Husheng agreed without the slightest hesitation.
Just from the curing process he has seen so far, Xue Husheng can feel that the Xiao family's ham is not unusual, and now he wants to see the finished product of the Xiao family's ham.
A wooden barrel was filled with 8 pork legs, and after the lid was closed, Xiao Feng was not idle, he and Xiao Qiang lifted it up, and walked towards the backyard of the old mansion under the leadership of Xiao Jinxu.
The Xiao family's old house was built against Qingling Mountain, so the vegetable garden through the backyard was Qingling Mountain, but Xue Husheng did not see any trace of the house.
However, when Xue Husheng followed Xiao Jinxu and turned into a mountain col, there was actually a door on the mountain wall at the end!
"Your cellar is actually in a cave?!" Xue Husheng was so surprised that the camera in his hand almost fell off, he didn't expect that the so-called cellar room was actually a cellar cave!
At this time, Xue Husheng had a better understanding of the Xiao family's heritage and strength.
Xiao Jinxu, who was walking in the front, took out the key to open the big lock, pushed open the heavy door, and reached out to turn on the lighting and ventilation system.
Before the electricity was connected to Ginkgo Village, the Xiao family's cellar cave still used kerosene lamps and a primitive ventilation system, but after the electricity was turned on, Xiao Jinxu and Xiao Jinhao and others modernized the cellar cave as soon as possible.
Although it is not yet possible to tell what adverse effects modern equipment will have on the cellar effect, at least the environment in the cellar is much better, and it is much easier to work in it.
Under Xiao Jinxu's command, Xiao Feng and the others carried the barrels into a cellar room in the cellar cave one by one, and today's task was completed.
Half a month later, these semi-finished hams will be taken out again, smeared with the special mortar of the Xiao family, and then placed in the cellar room with better ventilation conditions in the cellar hole, and after half a year, they will become finished hams. However, the longer the Xiao family's ham is stored, the better it tastes, and in the Xiao family's cellar cave, there is no shortage of ham that has been stored for three or five years or even longer.
Under the leadership of Xiao Feng, Xue Husheng's camera recorded the Xiao family's cellar cave in the belly of Qingling Mountain, and many unheard of miracles came to his face! (To be continued......)