It's the New Year, paste a favorite mushroom "Several Fence Hanging White Mushroom Fertilizer", which is taken from the Song Dynasty food.

There is a Taizhou Mansion on Liangzhejiang East Road, and there is a Xianju County in Taizhou Prefecture, and there are two mountains in Xianju County.

One is called Mengxi Mountain, with thousands of peaks and mountains, and thousands of ravines. One is called Weiqiang Mountain, the valleys are staggered, and the ancient trees are sensen. There are mushrooms on both hills.

Winter goes to spring, it is warm and cold at first, the forest is thin and thin, and the soil pine buds are live, which is the season of mushrooms (xun, higher fungi, especially mushrooms). Weiqiang Mountain in the southwest, the humidity in the col is steaming, from the dead branches and leaves, from the fluffy moss, the mushrooms with flower handkerchiefs wrapped around their heads and brocade legs come out, clusters, clusters, vibrant, like the girls of the local She tribe. The head is covered with mushrooms, and the thick white umbrella is dotted with brown squares, and the edges are all curled, like a freshly knitted velvet hat. The leg wrap is a stipe, thick and white, with a swollen base, overlapping like lotus petals, and ribbons are tied on the lotus petals. The breeze is light, the fragrance is fragrant, and the mountains are fresh.

The geese have passed the gramophone, orange-green, orange-yellow, the autumn wind is whisking, the sky is clear, and it is the season of thick ointment. Mengxi Mountain in the northwest, soaking with zero dew, mountain paste wood, or at the top of the peak, or in the branch of the tall tree, the thick paste mushroom is dotted and distributed in between. When it was born, it was shy, round and jade, light and dripping milk, white as jade, and its size and shape were like pigeon eggs; Soon, the fungus umbrella was opened, and it was hard to hold it until the palm of the hand, as if to shield it from the coming autumn rain.

The autumn rain is really coming, the small umbrella of the thick ointment mushroom can cover the autumn rain, can not cover the frost, the frost and snow have passed overnight, the green leaves all over the mountain are withered, and it is the chestnut mushroom that is replaced by the thick ointment mushroom. The chestnut mushroom can only lead the way for dozens of days, and it is the pine mushroom that can flourish for a long time.

Throughout the year, pine mushrooms emerge from the humus under the shade of the trees, bent over, tilted their heads, and flocked, or wear goose-yellow hats, or reddish-brown hats, hats without fins, and no hanging fish around their waists, so the pine mushrooms are civilians, boat owners, and veterans who guard the grain depots and pastures in those years.

These flavors are all mushrooms, and they are all treasured in people's mouths. Thick paste mushroom to make soup is the most beautiful, wash off the mud, blanch it in a pot of boiling water, add refined salt, pour rice wine, simmer slowly over low heat, the soup is bright, warm and smooth, and the taste does not let the pheasant stew the lettuce. The chestnut mushroom is suitable for stir-frying, the mycelium is thick and tough, slip it in the oil pan several times, add five flavors and soup stock and cook finely, the taste is thick and chewy. The pine mushroom is slightly fishy, blanched with salted water to remove the fishy, or blanched and cold, or fried in a pot, or stewed with chicken, or put in a soup pot to improve freshness, the flavor is good. And the mushroom is the first one, or boiled or fried, the aromatic charm is in the mustache, fat, smooth, nutritious, and medicinal value, the king of mushrooms is it, the king of mountain treasures is also it.

Mushrooms, pine mushrooms, thick paste mushrooms, chestnut mushrooms, the Song Dynasty people shouted like this, strictly speaking, the Song Dynasty literati shouted like this. In fact, there is another name for the mushroom, another name for the pine mushroom is the mushroom, another name for the thick paste mushroom is called the chicken leg mushroom, as for the chestnut mushroom, I am afraid that no one has ever seen the real thing except the Xianju people, and we also need to spread the wings of our imagination and guess it and guess its current name.

Mushrooms, pine mushrooms, thick paste mushrooms, chestnut mushrooms, the resumes of these mushrooms are registered in the "Fungus Spectrum". "Mysteria" was written by Chen Renyu, a native of the Song Dynasty and his hometown in Xianju.

Chen Renyu said that they have a combination of mushrooms, pine mushrooms, thick paste mushrooms, chestnut mushrooms, bamboo mushrooms, wheat mushrooms, jade mushrooms, yellow mushrooms, purple mushrooms, four seasons mushrooms, and Amanita mushrooms, each of which is a fungus, and most of them belong to mushrooms. Chen Renyu's "Fungi" is the most complete enumeration in the ancient fungi genealogy, and no one has done the same work before him; After him, everyone was lazy again, and when they talked about mushroom food, they directly copied the "Fungus Book". For example, when we just talked about mushrooms, pine mushrooms, and thick mushrooms, we plagiarized them from the "Fungus Spectrum", but we turned the literary language into the vernacular.

Gossip is not mentioned. Let's say that Chen Renyu's hometown Xianju is located in the subtropics, with abundant rainfall, warm climate, and mountainous, which is extremely beneficial to the growth of various fungi and plants. Chen Renyu once proudly said that there are several kinds of mushrooms in China that are only produced in Xianju, such as the mushroom, and he believes that only those produced in Weiqiang Mountain are authentic; Like thick ointment, he also thinks that only those produced in Mengxi Mountain are authentic. He even further asserted that the world is so big that only Mengxi Mountain has thick ointment mushrooms, and they can't grow anywhere else. These words were uttered with great pride and were therefore not very reliable. Now we know that mushrooms can be cultivated artificially and can be found all over the world; The thick paste mushroom, which once grew humbly on the dung heap of the alluvial fan plain of the Yellow River, did not look like a rack at all, and had to grow to Xianju, Zhejiang.

Chen Renyu said that Zhejiang Xianju was the place designated by the emperors to pay tribute to the mushroom, and Mengxi Mountain was also the only export place for the thick mushroom. Xianju belongs to Taizhou, and the mushroom was originally called "Taiwan mushroom". The people picked the mushrooms from the mountains and gave them to the magistrates; The magistrate then packed it and paid tribute to the emperor. When packing, it was necessary to label it, and the civil servants in charge of labeling were too sloppy in their writing, and the "Taiwan mushroom" with the dog crawling body was paid tribute, so that the emperor saw it as a "combined mushroom". As a result, the name of "Taiwan mushroom" was changed to "Combination Mushroom". Later, for decades, a basket of mushrooms went down Weiqiang Mountain, dried in the homes of mountain people, loaded on the ship, went down the Yong'an River to the east, entered Taizhou Bay from the Linhai River, and then went north along the sea road, crossed Yushan Island, Jiushan Island, and Taohua Island, landed in Hangzhou Bay, and then unloaded the ship and loaded the car, and sent directly to Da Nei through the Qiantang Post Station, and became a delicacy in the imperial kitchen, and put it into the emperor's stomach.

In the territory of Taizhou Prefecture, Tiantai Mountain, Huangyan Mountain, Tongbai Mountain, and Kuocang Mountain all produce mushrooms; Jumping out of the state capital, on the small lonely peak of the West Lake in Hangzhou, and on the Gaoting Mountain in Yuhang, it is not without mushrooms. But the emperor didn't eat it, and named it as someone from Xianju County, and he wanted it from Weiqiang Mountain. Because there was a prejudice at that time: the mushrooms in Weiqiang Mountain were the most fragrant, and they could not be compared elsewhere. However, Weiqiang Mountain is not close to the Jingshi journey, take the sea route to go around to the east, take the land route to separate several states and counties, and the mushroom is not as solid as the sweet potato, it will not be fresh overnight, and it will rot in more than three days, and it must be dry goods that can be transported to the palace safely. Therefore, the emperor is not as blessed as we think, they even eat a mushroom, I believe that when the master of the imperial kitchen made mushroom soup, he had to send a shot half a day in advance.

As Chen Renyu said, the thick paste mushrooms on Mengxi Mountain in his hometown are exported. Unlike mushrooms, this thick mushroom is not sold as a dry product, but is first made into soup, then bottled into urns and shipped out in the form of cooked food. At that time, the people who lived near Mengxi Mountain, in addition to farming and hunting, also engaged in family handicraft workshops, which mainly processed thick paste mushrooms.

In the twilight of autumn, before the frost arrived, from the first rooster crow in the morning, people carried baskets and stepped on the sparsely stretched path with a few dead grasses and dew-stained grass to climb the mountain, while searching for traces of thick ointment mushrooms. They look from place to place, their eyes flashing, like dogs stealing chickens; Overcoming thorns and thorns, exploring treasures in the mountains, and like a group of scientific expedition members. Their efforts always paid off, and soon, the willow baskets and bamboo baskets brought by everyone were filled with thick ointment mushrooms, some milky white and some light yellow, all of them with buds, and the small fungus umbrella was bulging. People take these little things home, choose mountain grass, blow off the dust, rinse them in cold water, blanch them in warm water, and finally make them into a fragrant mushroom soup. Every link is cautious, lest one be careless, touch the cap and scratch the stem, because everyone knows that the thick ointment mushroom is most afraid of hurting the muscles and bones, and it will be fishy as soon as the skin is broken. It can also be imagined that the people under Mengxi Mountain have taken the lead in living a small □□ by selling thick paste mushrooms, and some friends with market consciousness put the mushroom soup into exquisite clay pots, sealed with cement, and pasted with trademarks, one can and one hanging money, just like selling wine.

In addition to the delicious mushrooms and thick mushrooms, Chen Renyu also mentioned jade mushrooms. If we guessed correctly, the jade mushroom is the true shimeji mushroom, except for the cap when it is first born with a few marble markings, the stipe and each hyphae are white, so it is also called white mushroom. The jade mushroom does not smell as fragrant as the mushroom, nor does it have the fatty taste of the thick mushroom, but it is the most chewy, and after simmering in the pot for a long time, it can still exude a peculiar fragrance, like a steamed hairy crab.