vs 126 Clothing Teacher Training

The first month has passed, and Ling Tong goes to the meditation garden every day to learn art.

The method taught by Master Chaoyu is different, although he will also train Ling Tong in basic skills such as needles, hemming, and upper sleeves, but more is to tell the characteristics and charm of clothing styles, as well as how to make a more intelligent match with the fabric texture and pattern.

"Let me ask you, if this peacock pattern cloud satin, if it is made into a one-piece robe made with silk cotton, and a two-and-a-half-inch wide collar full of embroidery, is worn by a woman with the figure of Ju Nan's ruler, how much will this dress cost?" Ling Tong was dumbfounded! Do you still have to weigh your clothes?

"Taishi, Ling Tong doesn't know, can I weigh it and then answer you?" Ling Tong said.

"That's right! At the beginning, it was called, what's so embarrassing about this? I tell you that you are about nineteen taels, and when you have done it, you will weigh it out and check it, and every time you make a kind of fabric and a style of clothing in the future, you will use a scale and write it down. ”

Seeing Ling Tong's confused expression, Chao Yu smiled and said, "You don't know why you did this, do you?" Hehe, I tell you, not only the amount must be counted, but the drape of the material must also be counted, and even the warmth and coolness must be distinguished! ”

"How can you tell if you feel draped? What about the coolness......" Ling Tong's eyes widened in novelty.

"The best material for draping is a double-layer smoke yarn, take the same width of one meter long, two materials at the same time horizontally straightened, while letting go, the closer to the falling time of the smoke yarn, the better the drape, after falling only shake less than three times, there is no sense of drape, can shake five to eight times, considered medium, more than ten times, counted!"

Ling Tong's eyes were full of reverence when he heard it, and he said eagerly: "What the Taishi said is unheard of, it is all the words of the truth, and Ling Tong has been taught!" ”

"The feeling of warmth is measured by a glass of cold water and a cup of hot water, and the warmth of ordinary cotton cloth is considered in the middle, the cold of silk and the heat of wool, which is not unusual, everyone understands! The key is the same satin, but there is still a difference in the sense of warmth, take a piece of material wrapped in the palm of the hand and put it on the top of the hot water cup, count nine times in the heart if there is a sense of heat, the material is cool, no, hot, this is actually to see whether the material is fast or slow to warm the heat, this feeling is to practice, I don't believe you try, hot water is easy to try, cold water is much more difficult......"

"Can you try cold water?" Ling Tong couldn't believe it.

"Yes, but you need to use well water in summer and ice water in winter, these subtle touches, you just need to gather together to do a good experiment, remember it in your heart, and don't need to do it often, after you have experience, you can know it with your hands; It doesn't need to be precise, but if you don't have a careful discrimination, you can never be born out of an ordinary tailor, you will always be just a craftsman, and you can't be a dressmaker! ”

"Master, the shopkeeper is here!" Qinglu ran in and replied with a brisk face.

In a blink of an eye, I saw Bai Huimei appear at the door of the hall, Qinglu opened the curtain for her, and she was followed by Ju Nan and Master An.

Ling Tong hurriedly stepped forward and saluted a few people. The shopkeeper smiled at her and nodded, "Miss Guo has been studying well recently?" Taishi never accepts disciples, which shows how much she values you! Ling Tong was busy and owed yes.

Ju Nan has a very meaningful expression on her head, Ling Tong has gradually encountered more people and things now, and she has learned to look at people, Ju Nan is not like Lian Tao and Master An, her thoughts are deep, she likes to show her mood, and it is difficult to guess her inner thoughts many times.

Master An held a horse in his hand and gently placed it on Master Chaoyu's table. All the tables used for tailors are covered with light-colored felt, so that you can not hear the sound of scissors, bamboo rulers, etc. colliding and rubbing against the tabletop.

"Today, there is something that needs to be palmed by the master!" Bai Huimei stepped forward.

"Master, look at this ......"

Ling Tong followed Chaoyu to the table, it was a painting made of silk threads, or a horse with a painting material, as soon as I saw that the weaving method was divided into multiple layers, I knew that it was extremely laborious!

"The eldest son of the Duke of Jin personally came over today, saying that the old lady Zou Huaide in the house is 90th birthday this year, and the family is naturally going to celebrate, the old lady is not deaf and blind, and the idea is still very big! I don't know where to find such a horse from the bottom of the box, and said that I must use it to make a longevity robe! Nothing else! ”

"Then I'll do it with him......" Qinglu on the side interjected with a grin.

Bai Huimei smiled bitterly, opened the first layer of clothing, and saw a cavity half an inch square!

"This is undoubtedly a good material, the old lady must say that it was handed down from the Song Dynasty! The people in the house don't dare to say no, the material is so big, it's not enough to dodge the hole, don't hide, and no one will make up for it, the key is to see, this is a decent painting! The following is Shou Tao Lianfu, the middle is full of beds, this cavity is in the middle, how to get it? ”

From beginning to end, Taishi Chaoyu was watching calmly and quietly, without saying a word, and when she arrived here, she said clearly: "This is a piece of silk material"

"The old lady said that it was the Song Dynasty, and there is some truth, the silk of the Song Dynasty reached the peak level, and then most of this process was lost, and now only through the warp and weft, just some ordinary ribs, plain weave, can weave such a painting is very few!"

"No wonder the eldest prince Zou said that even the palace royal clothes shop was also seen, saying that it was a high-grade silk, and he wouldn't make up for it and didn't dare to take it, so let him take it out and ask again, so he came to us."

Chao Yu said with a calm expression: "It is recorded in the history books that Zhu's "Peach Butterfly Picture" of the Southern Song Dynasty is the most famous, and there is a poem of seven words woven on it: "The finch steps on the flower branches and produces plain silk, I have heard that it is difficult to carve silk, you must know that it should be a Xuanhe thing, and do not make ordinary embroidery to see" is a work that no one can match! …… This silk material uses the traditional weaving method of warp and weft breaking, and also uses techniques such as wrenching, structuring, knotting, lapping, son-mother warp, long and short, wrapping the heart and participating in the warp. The natural color is fine, the raw silk is used, the color weft is thick, it is cooked silk, and the gold thread is also used here, which will go through so many years, and the gold color is dazzling! ”

"This material, I'm afraid I can't find a second horse in the entire capital, it is indeed a treasure, and their old lady is worthy of such material!"

"So what now? If I return it too, it will be a little ......" Bai Huimei looked at Chaoyu, her eyes were full of eager anticipation, she was a strong person, of course she hoped that Chaoyu could have a way, in other words, if Chaoyu couldn't do it, then no one would be able to take it!

"Give me three days, and then find me a plain weave wood machine, all kinds of silk threads including gold and silver thread, brushes, paints, and ten two-inch boat-shaped shuttles and a bamboo pick, I try to repair it first, but there are some places where embroidery techniques may be used, so I have to ...... alone."

Bai Huimei understood, gritted her teeth slightly, and said, "Cheng, I'll personally invite Jiang Yiyue!" (To be continued.) )