Chapter 148: Arbat Street

The next morning, Fat Brother and Lao Chen drove the car to pick up me and Sveta first, and then pick up Brother Chao and Vera.

As soon as the car left the satellite city, I saw a police car parked on the side of the road ahead, and a policeman stood next to the police car and shook a baton. The fat brother muttered, "TMD, if you don't do it, you have to pay the travel fee." "When the police saw our car approaching, they held out their batons and signaled for our car to pull over. After the fat brother parked the car on the side of the road, he did not get out of the car, but rolled down the window. The policeman came over, first saluted, and said in a routine tone: "Hello! Please show your ID. Lao Chen handed the prepared health certificate to the police, and the policeman took the health certificate with an expressionless face, and did not open it, but after glancing around, he took out a banknote from the health card, quickly put it in his pocket, and then returned the health certificate to the fat brother, and waved his hand to let us go.

After waiting for the car to drive a few hundred meters, Brother Chao asked curiously: "Brother Chen, does this policeman know your car?" Lao Chen nodded and said, "Almost all the police cars patrolling here know our car, and if they encounter it, they will give 50,000 rubles." Brother Chao then asked: "Do you encounter car inspections every day?" Lao Chen shook his head: "Usually we go out early, rarely encounter a car check, every time we encounter it, we may not necessarily check, anyway, it is those policemen, they are all familiar, today is the end of the check, tomorrow and the day after tomorrow will not be checked, and Lena is with us, the police do not dare to go too far in front of their own country, if it is just me and the fat man, then the police will not see a check." "I see, this is equivalent to paying protection money.

In the car, Chao Ge told us that Arbat Street is quite Beijing's Wangfujing Street, is the most famous commercial pedestrian street in Moscow, Arbat Street is divided into "new" and "old", the old Arbat is a folk pedestrian street, and the new Arbat is a modern commercial street, the famous poet Pushkin once lived on this street, and Pushkin's former residence is located on Arbat Street.

After listening to Brother Chao briefly introduce me and Fat Brother to Arbat Street, I want Sveta to tell me about Arbat Street again. Sveta told me that Alabast Street is located in the center of Moscow, and Muscovites affectionately call this street "Liberty Street" or "Pedestrian Street". This street, which runs parallel to Pushkin Prospect, is about 2 kilometers long and does not allow any vehicles to enter. The word Arbat is derived from the Arabic language, and it is said that in the past, many Arab merchants lived here, who used to load goods on pallet carts, and people named the street after the Russian pronunciation of pallet carts. However, it is also said that "Arbat" is an Arabic word meaning close neighbor. At first, the old Arbat Avenue was only a few hundred meters long, and in the early 80s, Kalinin Boulevard, which is adjacent to Arbat Street, was renamed New Arbat Street. In the 19th century, when the aristocracy and the upper class competed with each other, living in Arbat Street was all the rage. Famous writers and poets such as Pushkin, Tolstoy, Lermontov, and Gogol, as well as composer Rachmaninoff, have all lived on Arbat Street, and when walking on the street, you can often see nameplates nailed to the walls of buildings, indicating that a certain person lived here from a certain year to a certain year. The former residence of the famous poet Pushkin is located at 53 Arbat Street. Pushkin in 1831, with the "first beauty of Russia" Natalia? After getting married, Goncharova lived here. Arbat Street is one of the few pedestrian streets in Moscow, one of the most famous, and has almost the same history as the city of Moscow. Although it is narrow and short, only 100 meters long and more than 10 meters wide, the Russian style is very strong, and the Russians call it "the elf of Moscow". In this brick-paved street, you can see not only the most traditional and simple things, but also the most modern and fashionable toys. On both sides of the street, the quaint old shops, the specialty shops selling traditional crafts, are displayed like antiques, but there are very fashionable coffee shops, clothing stores, and exquisite gift shops. After listening to Sveta's detailed introduction, I became intrigued by this famous street in Moscow.

After entering Moscow, the fat brother parked his car in the parking lot near the subway station, he said, the police in Moscow are stuck in traffic, and it is difficult to find a place to park on Arbat Street, so it is better to take the subway. After leaving the parking lot, Lao Chen said, a few of us should not walk in a row, walk separately before and after, so as not to attract the attention of the police, although not afraid of the police checking passports, but it is also very troublesome to be checked. So we scattered into the subway station and walked past the police, who ignored us.

When you arrive at the Arbat Street metro station, Sveta says it's one of the most complex metro stations in Moscow, and it's easy to get lost here if you can't read the directions. After we got off the subway, we walked for a long time in the underground passage of the subway station before getting out to the surface. As soon as you get out of the subway station, you will see a tall and magnificent building that resembles the main building of Moscow University, which Sveta said, is the Foreign Ministry building, one of the famous "Seven Sisters" of Moscow.

Walking into Arbat Street, I was dazzled by the small shops on both sides of Arbat Street, which were filled with a wide variety of goods, and the shops on the street gathered a dazzling array of representative Russian crafts. The shop that sells handicrafts is not too large, and there are various handicrafts made by folk artists, such as various wood carvings, lacquerware, embroidery, wool fabrics, etc., as well as various oil paintings. The most traditional handicrafts are the wood painted matryoshka dolls that have been handed down since the time of Tsarist Russia, in a craft store, I saw a set of nesting dolls made in the image of ********** is very interesting, when I asked the price, some of them are ridiculously expensive, the clerk told me that this is a very famous craftsman in Moscow all handmade zuò. Sveta motioned with her eyes that I didn't want me, and when I got out of the craft store, Sveta said that if I liked it, she would give me a set in the future, but it was better not to buy anything here, because the goods here are the most expensive in Moscow.

Because of the cold weather, there are not many people on the pedestrian street. In the spring and summer, Vera said, the street is filled with freelance painters who paint portraits of tourists, as well as street musicians. It's just a pity that I can't feel the atmosphere of this street art now.

We came to the Pushkin House at 53 Arbat Street, a small two-story building with a very unpretentious light blue color. There is a house number "53" on the wall. The bronze plaque at the door is engraved with the words "Alexander? Sergeyevich? Pushkin lived here from the beginning of February to mid-May 1831". It turned out that Pushkin only lived here for a short period of three months. The Pushkin House has now been converted into a museum by the government, and Sveta said that the Russians have great respect for Pushkin. There are many places in Moscow that are associated with the name of Pushkin. Such as the famous Pushkin Square, the famous Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, etc. Moscow also houses the Pushkin Museum, dedicated to Pushkin's life and literary achievements. He lived in more than one part of Moscow, but the museum of the Pushkin House is the only one in Moscow.

We entered the former residence museum with admiration and first put on felt slippers in accordance with the regulations, which was a measure taken to protect the cultural relics. The first floor of the House Museum hosts an exhibition entitled "Pushkin and Moscow" all year round. There are a large number of paintings, portraits, maps, manuscripts, books and other exhibits detailing Moscow in Pushkin's time, Pushkin's activities in Moscow, and his family and friends.

Ascending from a wooden staircase to the second floor, you will reach the place where Pushkin once lived. It is a pity that almost none of the furniture used by Pushkin has been preserved. So almost all the rooms are empty. Only a few portraits were hung on the walls, and some manuscripts, pictures, and so on were displayed. In addition, there are individual pieces of furniture, such as the desk used by Pushkin and the dresser used by Mrs. Pushkin, originals that were moved from elsewhere. Only the large living room has made some replicas of a visitor who visited with his parents as a child, slightly decorated in the style of the era. In addition, there is a vestibule at the entrance of the staircase, which partially replicates the original appearance of the year.

We were received by a museum docent, who told us in detail about Pushkin's life and the history of Pushkin's house. Pushkin was born on June 6, 1799 (May 26 in the Russian calendar) in Moscow into a noble family. He spent his childhood in Moscow. In 1811 he went to study at the Tsarskoye Village (present-day Pushkin City) school near St. Petersburg. While in school, he was influenced by the Decembrists, as well as the Enlightenment activists against serfdom, Rajishev and Chaadaev, among others. Later, he was exiled to the south in 1820 for publishing poems such as "Ode to Freedom" and "To Chadaev", which criticized serfdom and praised freedom and progress. During his exile, he did not put down his pen, and still wrote many works that condemned high society, criticized the tsarist **** system, sympathized with the people, and praised the power of the people, such as the narrative poem "Captive of the Caucasus", "Tsgang", and the historical tragedy "Boris? Godunov" and so on. After returning to Moscow in 1826, he was still under the watchful eye of the Tsar's agents, but he nevertheless published poems such as "To the Prisoner of Siberia" and "Alion", and adhered to the revolutionary ideas of the Decembrists.

In May 1830, Pushkin and Natalia? Nikolaevna? Goncharova is engaged. After completing the poetic novel "Yevgeny? Onegin, he and Natalia were married on February 18, 1831. In preparation for his wedding, in early February he rented the house we saw on the second floor of 53 Arbat Street, with a total of five rooms. The first 3 months of their marriage were spent here for the newlyweds.

At that time, Natalia was known as the "first beauty of Moscow". Judging from the portraits displayed in the former residence, it is indeed worthy of its name. Pushkin met her at a ball in the winter of 1828, when Natalia was only 16 years old. Pushkin later recalled that at that time he fell in love with her at first sight and soon decided to propose to her. However, this "first beauty of Moscow" does not have much cultural accomplishment except for speaking French and dancing well. She had no interest in poetry, and it was difficult for her to become a confidant of the poet Pushkin.

On February 17, 1831, on the eve of the wedding, Pushkin held a party in his new residence to "say goodbye to the single life". Many of his friends were invited to the party. According to the participants' later recollections, Pushkin appeared depressed and sad, as if he had a premonition that the marriage would bring some kind of tragic end to his fate. On February 8, 1837 (January 27 in the Russian calendar), Pushkin was enraged by the French official Dantes' attempt to seduce his wife, so he duel with her, but unfortunately he was shot and died of his injuries two days later, at the age of 38. In fact, it was a deliberate conspiracy. It is a pity that a generation of great poets died so prematurely. Originally, he could have left more beautiful poems for people.

Pushkin did not write a single line of poetry during his stay on Arbat Street, and soon after his marriage he began to be troubled by the dilemma of excessive household expenses and making ends meet. At that time, the upper class in Moscow was very unkind to him, and some people spread gossip about him. This qiē forced him to leave Moscow in mid-May 1831 and move to St. Petersburg.

After Pushkin left, the house on Arbat Street changed hands several times. From 1920 to 1921, it was used by a theater of the Red Army, whose artistic committee included the famous poet Mayakovsky and the famous theater director Meyerhold. Later, Pushkin's former residence gradually faded into oblivion. It was not until 1930 that a collection of essays entitled "Pushkin in Moscow" appeared, which included information mentioning the former residence, that people remembered it again. In February 1937, a commemorative plaque was hung on the façade of the house. But it was not until February 18, 1986, the 155th anniversary of Pushkin's wedding, that the Pushkin House on Arbat Street was officially opened to the public. Since then, the house has received numerous visitors from all over the country, as well as guests from all five continents of the world. Although the interior of Pushkin's former residence has not been preserved intact, and the poet lived here for only three months, it is still extremely cherished by the Russian people. People come to pay their respects with admiration, and they are also infected by the noble spirit of the poet from here.

We walked out of Pushkin's house and saw an old woman placing a bright red rose on the windowsill next to a bronze plaque with Pushkin's name engraved on it. I think that if Arbat Street is the "elf of Moscow", then this unpretentious little building is the soul of Arbat Street. We are engraved with the inscription "Alexander? Sergeyevich? From the beginning of February to the middle of May 1831, Pushkin paused for a moment in front of the bronze medal of "Pushkin who lived here" and silently paid homage to the great soul of the poet.