Chapter 567: Ready-to-Wear Shop
Soon, several ladies drew the pattern of the cheongsam satin given by Yun'er, and took it to Fujin to give it to the palm of their hands. In Evian's eyes, Fujin should belong to an expert-level fashion designer, and she is right to give her palm. After putting forward suggestions for improvement, the edicts and teaching grandmothers cut and finished the cheongsam satin, and brought it to Fujin again.
Not to mention, several Mrs. Decree and Mama Jiao Xi have the potential of fashion designers, all of them are very good and fine, and they are also very decent and comfortable to wear. A costume design team was born. Yun'er built yì, opened a ready-to-wear store and a gift shop. Only Yun'er knows how much cloth she has in her hands and the accessories for making clothes. According to Fu Jin, the price of ready-to-wear clothes sold in garment shops in the Qing Dynasty can be sold for ten taels of silver for an adult man's robe and an adult woman's cheongsam. Of course, the fabrics are all fine brocade, the kind of one hundred and fifty wen a foot. Excluding costs and processing fees, the profit per piece of clothing is between five taels and six taels, which is double or even more. A lot of the brocade that Yun'er bought was half a ratio of mulberry silk and half of rayon, but it felt that the effect was better than that of pure silk. Because the brocade of the Qing Dynasty is pure silk, it is relatively soft, and there is no exotic crisp for the exterior. Exotic brocade can be made with a sewing machine, which is more than twice as efficient and unfolding. You can also iron it with an electric iron, and the effect will be better. The people who can use the sewing machine are all people trusted by Fujin and Yun'er, and the electric iron will also be kept secret.
The gift shop is a companion to the ready-to-wear store. The ready-to-wear garments are packed in gift boxes, and they immediately look noble. Whether it is a gift, personal use or marriage, it can raise the owner up, make people have a special face, and the price can also be raised. The Qing Dynasty was poor, the poor were the common people, and there were many who were not poor. Moreover, those pure cotton cloth and colored chemical fiber cloth can also be made into ready-to-wear clothes and supplied to the common people. After Yun'er thought about many links, she asked Wang Ye Fujin for instructions, and the two of them nodded and agreed, and soon the prince instructed Tian Liang and Nalan to find a shop. This shop is located on Zhengyang Street, although the rent is more expensive, the customer flow is also large, and the profit is also high, and the female dependents of large families often visit here.
The women who are good at cutting and making clothes in the house are not only the people around the hostesses of the front and rear courtyards, but also the maids and women who are on errands in the middle road building, Suzhou house, courtyard, east and west foreign mansions and courtyards, and everyone usually knows who these people are.
There are also four tailors from the palace dressing bureau, as well as four full-time embroiderers, all of whom are the best personnel in garment processing. Even a few ladies don't want to enjoy Qingfu at home, because making clothes is very profitable, and Wang Ye Fujin and Master Yun must not let themselves work in vain.
In this way, the selection of shops began, and there was a small grocery store not far north of the flyover that was in a hurry to redeem, and Tian Liang and Nalan reported that this grocery store could be divided into two merchants, and it happened that there was a gift shop.
The prince said, then call the garment store and the gift shop ready-to-wear stores and operate them together. Just use a set of people, find a few more sizes, and go back to your home to do the work.
Yun'er said: "It seems that our Qianqiantose is getting better and better at doing business. ”
The rent of this commodity is not cheap, twenty taels of silver a month, Tian Liang and Nalan came forward to talk about eighteen taels, and the term is set at one year. The name of the store is "Jade Dragon Ready-to-Wear". All the Jade Dragon brands are next to the Jade Dragon Cloth Village, who dares to rub against the merchants with the emperor's plaque? There is a cloth seller over there, and a cloth seller here, so it must be a family. As a result, four more household sewing machines were installed in Fujin's back warming pavilion.
In the exotic Shanghai, Yun'er bought more than 100 sewing machines with various functions, more than 20 of which are used to make clothing, as well as embroidery, embroidery, computer embroidery machine, code edge machine, copy edge machine, sewing machine, velvet embroidery machine, quilting machine, sewing machine, bead embroidery machine, cloth cutting machine, hemming machine, keyholing machine, flat embroidery machine, interlock sewing machine, embroidery cutting machine, trimming and sewing machine, curtain hemming machine, pattern bead edge machine, small charging sewing machine, high-power sewing machine, towel embroidery machine, shuttle embroidery machine, patch edge sewing machine, etc., can fully meet the needs of processed garments. It depends on the sale, if the sale effect is not good, these sewing machines will be bought for nothing.
There are also gift boxes, and Yun'er brought back a lot of plywood that can be used as gift boxes to hang the lining of the gift box and the antique satin for the box surface. Chinese people have the custom of "coming and not being rude", especially large families attach great importance to exchanges with others, friends, relatives, superiors and subordinates have courtesy exchanges, few people belong to the stick mallet only accept gifts from others and do not return gifts. Especially the eunuchs and wealthy families, face is more important than life. Therefore, Yun'er's gift box should be favored.
The plywood, satin, and antique satin that had been carried by air all came to Yun'er's hall, along with marking tools and carpentry wire saws. After calculations, the gift box designed by Yun'er was cut, and then Yun'er began to train eight teaching mothers to make gift boxes.
This skill is a little more complicated, and there is a carpentry operation. It was the wire saw, which was a woodworking tool that the Qing Dynasty did not have, and even Zhang, Cui and other masters who had done carpentry work for many years in the house had never used this kind of saw. Wire saws are best suited for cutting thin boards such as plywood, so the mothers, including Ling Juan, all pricked up their ears to listen to Yun'er's lectures.
When Ling Juan was young, her family was very difficult, and the carton that she had pasted with her mother for a long time was the kind of Chinese medicine pills, so she was not particularly unfamiliar with gift boxes. After Yun'er's explanation, you learned that the gift box is not as simple as you imagined, it is to make a box out of wooden boards. The gift box is satin-finished, and the lining must be hung, and there can be no stubble on the seams, nor can the lining and face be wrinkled.
After the efforts of the teaching and learning grandmothers, the production of the gift box was accepted by the teaching and learning grandmothers, but after it was done, it was necessary to tie the ribbon, so that it would be more grand. Just tying the ribbon made Yun'er waste a morning's time. It seems easy, but it is not so obedient when you get it in your hand, and the so-called eye is the case with high hands and low hands. Anyway, they have all passed, and the next thing is to design clothes, which is the main focus of Fujin. Yun'er found the last 100 million yuan of printed chemical fiber silk in a distant cave. It's those outdated chemical fiber silk fabrics for a dollar and a meter.
When this kind of fabric came to her eyes, Yun'er couldn't believe her eyes: how could it be so new and beautiful? The flowers on it are like they are alive, and against the background of the dark background, they seem to have jumped out of the picture. This kind of cloth costs a meter for a dollar, which seems too unreal! It's very strong to pull, how can it be outdated and old? It feels smooth and soft to the touch, and does not have the phenomenon of static electricity like the usual chemical fiber cloth. Yun'er felt as if the master had dealt with it, because these fabrics were no different from the new ones at all, and even better than the new ones.
With reverence for the master, Yun'er cut off a piece of cheongsam material from each of the ten chemical fiber satins, and asked Fujin to design ten cheongsam samples, and then processed and sold them in small batches after seeing that the effect was satisfactory.
Because it is a printed fabric, it does not need too many accessories, so it is sent to Fujin. The mustache was the first to scream, where had she ever seen such a beautiful silk, the flowers on it were like living! So he began to sell cute: "Two aunts, you can do it, the nephew and daughter-in-law are the juniors, and the favorite thing for young women is beautiful clothes, and the nephew and daughter-in-law spend money to buy it, right?" You two old men say a number. ”
Mama Zheng's Zhu Zheng is gone, so it's not good to joke with Mama Liu, but Mama Liu doesn't look down on Mama Liu: "You've all heard of the word scoundrel, right?" We have a big scoundrel in front of us. What good things did Master Yun bring, but before Fu Jin saw it, he wanted to return to himself. Don't be ashamed! ”
"What are you doing? Tune three nests and fours? Didn't you say it? These two are the aunts of the manoe? The beard is a junior, and the elders are not allowed to let the juniors? ”
Fu Jin said: "I won't let you today, such a beautiful flower cloth belongs to me, you don't even want to touch it!" ”
"Touch the edge, can you touch it?" The beard made a pitiful look and made everyone laugh.
Yun'er said: "Don't worry, nephew and daughter-in-law, I may give you a belly pocket cloth when the rest is cut." ”
The mustache fainted, and everyone laughed.
"Don't worry, let's make a few samples first, see the effect, okay, each person has a cheongsam, and it is as beautiful as Sister Hua." Yun'er was also amused.
It is very troublesome to make silk cheongsam, and silk is relatively soft and smooth, and it is very difficult to make. But it's not impossible to do it, if you master the method of making silk fabrics, it's still very easy to do. The most sure way to make silk fabrics are a few tailors and grandmothers who came out of the Shangyi Bureau in the palace. Fu Jin brought the four of them to Yiran Lou to explain the situation, and a few people happily accepted the task, took the size written by Fu Jin and went back with the fabric.
After half a decade of days, he is worthy of being a tailor from the Shangyi Bureau, and the silk cheongsam made is really enviable. If they were clothed servants from the Zhuangzi, Fu Jin might consider letting them use sewing machines. But it was difficult for Fujin to trust them from the palace, and it was not possible to get the eyeliner sent by the Queen Mother, let them use the sewing machine today, and it may not be available tomorrow, and the Queen Mother will know. It's a pity for this skill! However, Fujin also has a way, and he transferred four third-class maids from his own courtyard to four tailors to be apprentices. It is impossible to return to the palace when you come out of the Shangyi Bureau, even if it is the queen mother's eyeliner, there is not much hope of returning to the palace. Since he expressed his willingness to serve in the house forever, he will train a few apprentices. I gave a few before, but I didn't teach so seriously, for fear that the disciples of the church would starve to death the master. But this time Fujin told them that the prince was in business, loading silver into the treasury, and the girls and grandmothers who participated in the processing of fabrics could have processing fees, provided that they did it seriously and obeyed the dispatch of the cloud master. Because of this, the materials that were bought for living were all made of the silver of the cloud master.
Several tailors have also heard that the people serving beside the two hostesses in the front and back yards have participated in the prince's business and learned a lot of cloth skills. As a tailor, I work with cloth and fabrics, and I also want to learn some new skills. But if the master gives a few apprentices and refuses to teach them seriously, they will not teach them the skills, and they will not be rude, and everyone understands this truth. Therefore, several tailors changed their previous pride, no longer prevaricated and perfunctory, and taught their skills to several third-class maids in Fujin Academy. They themselves have also learned the exotic skills taught by the eight grandmothers, and they feel that it is quite cost-effective to repay one and report another.
The sample clothes were made, and the owner of the clothes wore them very well, so Yun'er took out a hundred pieces of silk cheongsam fabric, and used the method of making silk clothes learned by several third-class maids.
The silk fabric is smooth and sprayed with water before cutting, so that the fabric does not slide easily. Several tailors are old oilies in cutting, and they squirt out a mouthful of water in their mouths, like mist, which is a kung fu. Yun'er was inspired and thought that there was a kind of ironing slurry in the electric iron she bought, which could be used to make silk clothing.
Another way is to tighten a piece of cotton cloth on the cutting case, cut a single piece first, and then use a pin to turn the circle according to the warp and weft, and cut the second piece. If it is sewn with a sewing machine, in order to prevent wrinkling, the tension of the bottom and top thread is relaxed at the same time to reduce the pressure on the presser foot; You can also put a thumb-wide strip of paper on top of two layers of fabric, sew along with the fabric, and then tear it off. It is better to use both methods together, and the left hand slightly tightens the upper and lower layers of fabric, and moves evenly with the speed of the sewing machine. Silk clothing is much more difficult to make than cotton, and those who don't know how to use sewing machines have mastered the art of making zuò silk in years of exploration, so they refuse to teach it lightly.
With the joint efforts of several teaching mothers, it took half a month to use sewing machines to process, and half a month to make more than 30 sets of chemical fiber silk cheongsam, and took them to the newly opened "Yulong Garment Store" to sell. Because the price of silk itself is very low, and then the sewing machine is used, the chemical fiber silk cheongsam began to be sold at the price of six taels of silver a piece. In the first day or two, the store was newly opened, so almost no one cared about it, but on the third day, it was suddenly full. The female comrades bought all the silk cheongsams without asking the price. It's really all, there is not a single one left, and it is too cheap to go out.
Then sell at a higher price, half a month later, each cheongsam with a gift box, tie a ribbon, the price is ten taels of silver, but it is broken, the gift box is more popular than the cheongsam. Some people even buy gift boxes alone. Each gift box contains a pair of beautiful sachets that are colorful and beautiful. What Yun'er didn't expect was that Westerners with big noses also liked it very much, and bought it without a word.
The business went on. Not only chemical fiber silk cheongsam, but also cotton cloth cheongsam and brocade cheongsam. Then new content was added one after another, and it became another Jade Dragon Cloth Village, which was overcrowded every day. Yun'er thought that the people of the Qing Dynasty were relatively poor and could not afford expensive ready-to-wear clothes.
With Fujin's repeated encouragement, Yun'er designed a series of summer dresses specially for Han girls and little daughters-in-law, all of which were light-colored gauze skirts. There are not only the characteristics of women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, but also the characteristics of Ming Dynasty clothing that Han women like. It is a long skirt with a slightly narrower upper body and a slightly fatter skirt that can cover the top of the feet. The full dress characteristics of the upper body are relatively strong: from the left shoulder to the right armpit are three teeth, if it is a moon-white fabric, the teeth are light blue and lavender, the middle tooth is a slightly wider brocade colored tooth, and the two sides are equal distance pearl effect colored beads; An inch and a half of the bottom edge of the skirt is a circle of ribbons embroidered at equal distances, and the color is also pastel, and there is a white bead in the center of the flower. The fabric of the skirt is a completely opaque stretch yarn with a drape, and the pleats on it are pressed when spun, completely equidistant. The skirt is very wide when opened, and there is a petticoat inside. It gives people the feeling of simplicity and atmosphere, elegance and wealth. After the trial sale in Yulong Cloth Village, it was loved by many Manchu and Han women. The next day, a large number of merchants came to order, and some of them said that it was tailor-made for Jiangnan women. Unpretentious and dignified! (To be continued.) )