Chapter 273: Costume of the Dynasties (Background)

The Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties were an important historical period in the history of Chinese clothing from the primitive society symbolized by witchcraft to the symbol of royal power based on political ethics.

According to the record of "Zhou Li", at that time, people divided the rites into auspicious, fierce, military, guest, and jia, which were collectively called "five rites". There are six kinds of costumes for queens and women, mainly including robes, Zhai clothes, Que Zhai, bow clothes, exhibition clothes, and clothes. The robe, the chariot and the que are the ceremonial garments that accompany the king to the sacrifice. The exhibition clothes are the costumes for the ceremony of meeting the Son of Heaven and the banquet of the guests. Other ladies' costumes also have a detailed system, each with its own differences.

During the Shang and Zhou dynasties, the form of clothing was mainly made of tops and bottoms. Clothes are in positive colors, namely green, red, yellow, white, and black; Clothes use intercolor, that is, multiple colors made by mixing positive colors. Clothing is mostly small sleeves, and the length of the garment is usually at the knee. The collar, sleeves and edges of the garment have different patterns, and the waist is tied with a ribbon.

The dress of the Shang and Zhou dynasties represents the highest level of clothing at that time. Clothes ranged from a robe that reached to the feet, and there were also tops and bottoms that were divided into two sections. Clothes are generally narrow-sleeved, tight-mouthed, and wide-brimmed with a collar, mainly placket, and there are also partial styles. A dress is a calf-length skirt. Waist belt. In front of the abdomen hangs a rectangular "黼黻". There were no pants at the time. Only wrapping the leg around the calf, the ancients called it "Xingteng", or "evil width". Wear shoes made of various materials. On the head, it is a "headcoat" such as a crown, crown, and ben for aristocratic men.

Most of the nobles' dresses were fox fur robes, especially white fox furs, which were extremely precious. In order to show etiquette, the nobles covered the fur with a silk brocade coat, which was called "裼". Sometimes a layer of outer garment can be added to the tunic called a formal garment, which is a ceremonial garment worn during major ceremonies. The formation of the patriarchal ritual system of the Western Zhou Dynasty not only determined the different clothing styles of the upper and lower ranks. And it is required to change to different costumes according to different etiquette.

The imperial dress of the Zhou Dynasty was composed of gown, crown, yellow, belt, dress, width, skull, balance and other costumes. Gon is a colorful blouse painted or embroidered with various patterns. The crown is a crown hat worn by the emperor with a lithographic version on the top. 黻, also known as knee covering, is a rectangular fabric hanging in front of the abdomen. A belt is a belt made of leather or woven with silk thread. It is a long skirt worn under the body. Width, also known as evil width, is a cloth belt wrapped around the legs. It is a thick-soled shoe woven with gold thread and red thread. Heng is a headdress used to hold the crown in place.

The Western Zhou etiquette system determined different clothing styles for each rank, and different etiquette required different costumes. There are 12 types of clothing patterns for the emperor, and only on the clothes of the Son of Heaven will appear in all of them. The Lords can only use the patterns below the dragon, and the algae pattern and fire pattern can be used. The doctor's clothing can be covered with pink rice patterns. Narrow-sleeved woven shirts

Rectangular collar narrow-sleeved long clothes, the clothing of this period has not yet been twisted, generally tied at the waist, and some have jade ornaments hanging on the belt. At that time, there were two main types of belts: one was made of silk fabric, called "big belt" or "gentleman's belt". Another type of belt is made of leather, called a "leather belt". This is a gentleman's belt.

Narrow-sleeved woven clothes, this dress has a rectangular collar, collar, sleeves, placket, and skirt are all trimmed, with a shawl on the shoulder, a ribbon at the waist, and a jade pendant on the right side. It belonged to the general scholars of the time.

Spring and Autumn Warring States Costumes (770 B.C. ~ 221 B.C.) The great progress of weaving and embroidery technology during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period made the clothing materials increasingly refined, and the varieties and names became more and more numerous. The brocade of Xiangyi, Henan, and the ice, Qi, Jin, and Wenxiu of Qilu in Shandong are popular all over the country.

From the princes and grandsons to the people of Limin, they are all beautifully dressed and have a variety of styles, and all of them wear jade. (Jade naturally has grades), and even more, the jade worn should be counted as a group.

and swords, hats, and shoes, all inlaid with gold and jade. Women's shoes are made of fawn skin, silk threads, fine grass, etc. Winter coats are especially luxurious. Crossing the female capital to wear it to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.

The clothing of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the breadth of the upper class and the narrowness of the lower class of society, have become very different. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body deeply, it is the casual clothes of the scholar class at home, and it is also the dress of the common people, which is common to both men and women, and may be formed at the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The deep coat combines the previously independent top and bottom into one, but maintains a boundary line divided into two, and there is no seam or width up and down. The most ingenious design is to embed a rectangular fabric at the junction of the waist seam and the sleeve seam under the armpits, which can make the plane cut three-dimensional, which can perfectly express the human body shape, and the two sleeves also obtain a greater function of spreading the elbow. According to records, there are 4 different names for deep clothes: deep clothes, long clothes, linen clothes, and middle clothes.

During the Qin and Han dynasties, the costumes were still heavily splendid, and the embroidery patterns were mostly mountain clouds, birds, beasts or vines, and the brocade had a variety of complex geometric diamond patterns, as well as the through-width patterns woven with words.

The "Silk Road" was opened up in the third year of the founding of the Western Han Dynasty, when Zhang Qian was ordered to go to the Western Regions, and the Chinese silk and clothing culture was able to spread to the West. (Paying homage to the ancestors)

The clothes of the Western Han people. It's not much different from the Warring States. Outerwear and underwear. The lower body is tight-mouthed pants, maintaining the style of "big skirt". The shoes are divergent shoes. Waist belt.

The Qin Dynasty was uniformed, and the color of the uniform was still black. The Han Dynasty had a public opinion system. There are more than 20 kinds of ceremonial dresses, court clothes, and regular clothes of the emperor and his ministers. The difference in rank in clothing is already very pronounced. The Qin Dynasty abolished the original six types of crown clothes, leaving only one black crown for sacrifice. During the reign of Qin Shi Huang, it was stipulated that officials of the third rank and above should wear green robes and deep robes, and the common people should wear white robes, which were mostly made of silk.

To say that this Qin Dynasty people, they pay attention to color matching, and the Qin people use green. Red. Purple. Blue is the main popular color. Among them, green is the most popular. White. Black is rare. Pay attention to the top and bottom and cuffs. The color of the neckline is different and matched.

For more than 4,000 years in the Han Dynasty, robes have been used as ceremonial dresses.

The official uniforms of officials at all levels in the Western Han Dynasty were black robes all year round, and the difference in official positions was distinguished by crowns and ribbons. The official uniforms of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties basically followed the style of the Han Dynasty.

Robe: with large sleeves as the most, the cuffs are not divided into small ones, called "dispelling". The full sleeve is called a "jacket". The neckline and cuffs are square-checked, and the placket is open low to reveal a bit of underwear. (-- 。 Qin Hannan is really. Hey, it's better to be born in a good environment than to be born in a good age)

Curved robe: to undertake deep clothes, the Western Han Dynasty is common. In the Eastern Han Dynasty, there were few, and the collar and neckline were relatively low, revealing the lining, the cuffs were lacey, and the whole body was relatively narrow. The lower length drags the ground, like a trumpet, and when you walk, your feet will not be exposed

Cicada clothes: It is the usual Yanju clothes of the officials, which can be worn at home in summer, and can be used as a smock when it is a little colder, and can be passed on in the robe when it is cold.

[China Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties] ===========================

It's a remarkable time. National costumes began to blend. (Tubes remember the definition of national costumes, no, look up.) )

They have begun to wear hats without hats, and their crests have a trendy name - scarves. (Jack Sparrow laughs and doesn't say anything)

There are many types of scarves, including folded scarves, water chestnut scarves, purple scarves, white scarves, etc.

At the beginning of the Wei Dynasty, Emperor Wen Cao Pi formulated the nine-grade official position system, "with purple and crimson green as the difference between the nine grades". This system was used in successive dynasties until the Yuan and Ming dynasties.

In the Jin Dynasty, in addition to the scarf, there was also a small crown, and the crown with a gauze hat was called the lacquer sarong crown, which was originally worn by the samurai, and later people felt that it was fashionable, and both men and women wore it.

During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the ethnic minorities in the north entered the Central Plains, and the ethnic groups were integrated. The dumb pleats of the short clothes of the northern ethnic groups became the most fashionable and trendy at that time, and they were the front line of fashion, worn by both men and women. Women's clothing is "frugal at the top and abundant at the bottom".

At the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to Qi and Liang, he began to wear suits, skirt suits, originally in the Han Dynasty, when the Jin Dynasty had a short jacket and a wide skirt, and the feet were wearing wat head shoes and high tooth shoes (a kind of lacquer painting clogs), which was called a popular at that time, most of the popular ones were the rise of youth and teenagers, exclusive to tide men, and later, it became popular. On the other hand, the costumes of ethnic minorities were influenced by the rules and etiquette of the Han Dynasty, and they wore Han costumes.

After the Xianbei Northern Wei Dynasty moved its capital to Luoyang in the eighteenth year of Taihe (494), Emperor Xiaowen of Wei implemented the policy of Huahua, changed the surname of Tuoba, and led "all the ministers to serve the Han and Wei clothes". Originally, the Xianbei people wore clothes with small sleeves with clip collars, and this reform of the old customs, known as the "filial piety reform", made the old system of crown clothes since the Qin and Han dynasties to be continued, and promoted the development of Chinese clothing culture.

The development of Sui and Tang Dynasty costumes, whether it is clothing or clothing style, has presented an unprecedented brilliant scene.

Caijin is a material used to make various patterns of silk, and is often used in the sleeves or half sleeves. There is also palace brocade, the pattern has the shape of the pheasant, the fighting sheep, the phoenix, the swimming scales, and the chapter color is gorgeous. All kinds of embroidery are no longer mentioned, and the colors are divided into color set dyeing and monochrome dyeing.

The following piece should be the official court dress of the Sui and Tang dynasties, it is more formal, the color is scarlet, it is estimated that it is the official rank below the third grade and above the fifth grade at that time, and the sleeves inherit the style of deep clothes.

The green round neck and narrow sleeves, with left and right slits on the left and right, should be the regular clothes of the six-rank officials. The narrow sleeves are like the sleeves of the Xia, Shang and Zhou periods.

The Sui and Tang Dynasty women's clothing, which is obsessed with thousands of women, is elegant, light and soft, and truly achieves "the quiet place is like a quiet place like a flower shining on the water, and the action is weak and the willow supports the wind".

If you think that Tang costumes are designed for plump and graceful women, you want to deviate, although Yang Guifei is graceful and luxurious, and she looks great in a group of undergarments. But there are always women like Feiyan, and there can't be hard and fast rules, so let's unify the standards according to Yang Guifei.

The following is a women's pullover, from the court to the people, everyone looks at its clothes leader mouth embroidery, it should be embroidered in five colors, color coordination, this kind of clothes should be a regular category.

This is a rare style in Sui and Tang Dynasty clothing, generally with sleeves up to elbows, waist length, and a small belt as a chest. Because of the wide neckline, the chest is half exposed when worn. (。。。。 Huh,). This should be a lapel style

This outfit is the most representative. Collarless bandeau skirt. A short tunic and a long skirt with a ribbon high at the waist, almost down to the armpits. He also brought a long scarf that was popular at that time, generally made of tulle with silver flowers or gold and silver pastel painted flowers, one end fixed on the chest strap of half an arm, and then draped on the shoulder, twisted between the arms, called the shawl. It's fluttery to walk on.

This red, Yang Guifei is afraid that it will not look good when she wears it, with a round neckline, a very low neckline, half sleeves, and a deep coat style, in fact, if you look closely, it is a two-piece suit, the inside is a long skirt, that is, the inner skirt, and the outer cover is an embroidered collarless pullover, and the edge of the cuff neckline is delicately embroidered.

Court.. The crown on the man's head, the top of the crown, there is a rectangular crown plate with a circle in front and a back, and the crown plate hangs down in front and back. Depending on the quantity and material, the crown is an important symbol to distinguish the noble from the low. Whoever wears a crown must wear a crown. The crown dress is made of black blouse, vermilion bottom, and the upper and lower coats are painted with crests. In addition, there are knee covers, scarves, red scarves, etc.

Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of brocade fabrics, colored silks, and leather

Following the prosperous Sui and Tang dynasties, make us simple and Song. Song costumes are mainly fresh and concise.

This is a time when everyone is very elegant

========================= [Chinese Song Dynasty] ===========================

The Song Dynasty still had three kinds of sacrificial clothes, court clothes, and regular clothes.

The court clothes are not much different from those of the Tang Dynasty, and the sacrificial clothes only reduce the level.

Since the Song Dynasty, officials have begun to hang a circle around their waists, and they also wear an ornament on the neck, called a square round neck.

Compared with the Tang Dynasty, the biggest change in the official uniform of the Song Dynasty was the head of the head. In the Tang Dynasty, the soft head became a kind of hat with hard tires and hard feet in the Song Dynasty, and it had a fixed shape. The tire frame is made of iron wire and bamboo strips, and is covered with lacquered yarn. Officials most often wear straight-legged heads, with two ruler-like feet sticking out horizontally at the back of their heads. It was shorter at first, and then it became longer and longer, even a zhang long. (It's troublesome). As for the low-level officials and soap subordinates, their clothing was relatively simple, with shorter robes and narrow sleeves, and most of them wore cross-legged heads with their feet bent upward.

This is a straight-legged head, and the rank of the green official should not be high. Not as good as the Sui and Tang Dynasties.

At this point, we can all summarize the characteristics of ancient Chinese clothing,

The straight feet of the official crown were invented by Zhao Kuangyin in order to prevent ministers from whispering in the court. Straight-legged head

Generally, large dresses are praised with large sleeves (except for the Qing Dynasty), and the cuffs are generally embroidered, and the texture is based on different grades, with various materials, various embroidery methods, and various patterns.

It is often worn sometimes with narrow sleeves and is crisp and neat. The hem of the robe was usually slightly wide (much wider in the Tang Dynasty).

There are many styles of placket: placket, collar, round neck, lapel, collarless, etc., women's clothing collar styles are varied, and the right side of the collar is mostly men's clothing

Most of them are unbuttoned, and there are stand-up collar metal buttons in the later stage of famous dishes.

The Yuan Dynasty had a vast territory. Ethnically mixed. Everything has signs of mash-ups. In terms of clothing, on the official uniforms of the Tang and Song dynasties, their sacrificial clothes, court clothes, and official clothes were established.

The Han official costume style is still mostly Tang-style round-necked clothes and heads; Mongolian officials wore collared garments and square corrugated hats; In the middle and lower classes, in order to facilitate the galloping on the horse, the most fashionable are the pleated braided jacket (round-necked and tight-sleeved robe, wide hem, pleated, and braid waist) around the waist, and the hat is worn.

The textiles of the Yuan Dynasty include Nashiya Jin Jin, Hun Jin Tiezi, Jin Duanzi, Douluo Jin, Sanleng Luo, Big Silk, Small Silk, South Silk, North Silk, Wood Brocade Cloth, Fanjin Cloth...... All sorts of names. In the Yuan Dynasty, more than 10 great court meetings were held every year, when thousands of officials wore high-end dresses of the same color, style and decorated with Nashiya gold brocade jewelry, called the quality of the grandson clothes, and the fee was rare in the previous dynasties. This style of clothing was used as errand clothing in the Ming Dynasty

====================== [Chinese Ming Dynasty] =============================

Since the Tang and Song dynasties, dragon robes and yellow have been the exclusive colors of the royal family. Ordinary people wear it to kill their heads. Unlike some NC dramas, Flashing LZ is often proud of its eyes. Since the Northern and Southern Dynasties, purple is precious. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was the positive color, and because the "Analects" had "the evil purple seized Zhu Ye", purple was abolished from the official uniform.

When it comes to the classification of clothing, in the court, it is said that it is "complement", one before and after the "complement", the civil official uses the poultry and the military attache uses the beast, and the round-necked robe usually worn is distinguished by the length of the clothes and the size of the sleeves, and the elder is respected.

The main first clothes of Ming Dynasty officials followed the Song and Yuan dynasties and were slightly revised.

The emperor wore a black gauze folded scarf, and the wings of his hat were raised upwards from the back. Officials wear winged lacquered veils in court clothes, and often wear black gauze hats. (Thinking about Wanli Ye back then, he didn't love the emperor's pretend).

The wives and mothers of officials who received the title also had red large-sleeved dresses and various xia shawls with different grades of tattoos and ornaments.

In the Ming Dynasty, there were already high heels, and high heels were divided into inner heels and outer heels.

Civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors, so as not to mix with the official uniform; The working masses are only allowed to use brown.

Ordinary people's hats, in addition to the old ones that are still popular since the Tang and Song dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, promulgated them throughout the country, and used them in Shishu.

One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer yarn hat, called the square flat scarf; One is a hemispherical cap composed of six pieces, called a six-in-one cap, which means that the four seas are leveled and the world is one. The latter has been handed down, commonly known as melon skin hats, and is made of black velvet, satin, etc.

There are many kinds of clothes in the Ming Dynasty, according to the Ming tomb, there are black gauze hats, leather belts around the waist, satin long shirts, blue cloth robes, cloth shirts, waist wraps, plain silk dresses, trousers, cloth pants, cloth shoes, hats, patch clothes, long shirts, short skirts, dresses, vests, gloves, knee pads, sweat towels, square scarves, sachets, boots, foot wraps, cotton socks,

There is also a tomb where a bunch of couples (just commoners with status points) are buried. The funeral clothes include floral satin jackets, floral robes, plain satin silk cotton robes, floral satin cotton robes, plain satin jackets, plain silk jackets, floral satin cotton trousers, floral satin aprons, plain satin hooded capes, plain satin square scarves, floral satin socks, plain satin boots, floral satin masks, floral satin handkerchiefs, bed sheets, corpse cloths, cable ties, woven patches, plain silk cotton jackets, floral satin cotton jackets, plain silk vests, plain silk jackets, plain silk square neck shirts, floral satin jackets, plain silk cotton trousers, floral satin single pants, floral satin skirts, plain satin hats, crested shoes, knee pads, handbags, floral satin pillowcases, black gauze plain handkerchiefs, Epitaphs, gold Guanyin Buddha statues, gilt hairpins, blue and white hexagonal bands "Xuande Year" lid jars, brown painted figures porcelain lid jars, wooden hairpins, etc.

The women's clothing of the Ming Dynasty was no worse than that of the Sui and Tang dynasties

In the Ming Dynasty, women mostly wore skirts and trousers. Among them, the silk is cut into regular strips, each of which is embroidered with a flower and bird pattern, and the other is inlaid with gold thread on both sides, which is broken into a skirt, which is the "phoenix tail skirt". It is more useful to fold the whole satin with fine pleats, which is a "hundred-fold skirt".

The women's clothing of the Ming Dynasty mainly includes shirts, jackets, xia curtains, backs, armors and skirts.

The basic style of clothes, mostly imitated from the Tang and Song dynasties, is generally right-handed, restoring the customs of the Han people. Among them, the Xia veil, the back, and the nail are the placket, and the left and right sides are slit.

Adult women's clothing, with the change of each person's family background and identity, there are a variety of different shapes, ordinary women's clothing is relatively simple, mainly including skirts, backs, jackets, cloud shoulders and robes. The robe is evolved from the back, and is characterized by a low neckline, placket, wide sleeves, less or no lace on the collar and sleeves, and a length of the foot.

The form of clothing with upper skirt and lower skirt was the main clothing of women in the Tang Dynasty, and still accounted for a certain proportion of women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty.

The upper shirt is a collared and long-sleeved shirt. The color of the skirt is still light at first, although it is decorated, but it is not obvious. In the early years of Chongzhen, the skirt was mostly plain white, even if the embroidery pattern, it was only one or two inches below the skirt with a lace as a presser foot. The skirt width was originally six, that is, the so-called "skirt dragged six Xiangjiang water"; After using eight pieces, there are many fine pleats around the waist, and the action is like water lines.

At the end of the Ming Dynasty, the decoration of the skirt became more and more exquisite, the skirt width also increased to ten, the pleats on the waist became denser and denser, each pleat had a color, the breeze blew, the color was like the moon, so it was called "Yuehua skirt". The belt is often hung with a "palace silk" made of ribbons.

The Queen's Kasumi Phi

Xia curtain is a kind of veil, its shape is like two colored exercises, around the head and neck, draped on the chest, hanging a gold and jade pendant. Xia curtain has appeared as early as the period of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, after the Sui and Tang dynasties, people often praise this kind of clothing as beautiful as Caixia, so there is the name of Xia curtain. Bai Juyi's "Dance Song of Ni Clothes and Feathers" has the description of "rainbow clothes and xia walking and shaking crowns". By the Song Dynasty, it had been officially used as a dress, and the embroidery patterns varied with the grade.

The Queen's Tiara

The phoenix crown is a kind of wire mesh as the fetus, decorated with a jade phoenix, and hung with jewelry tassels of the crown as early as the Qin and Han dynasties, has become the queen mother, the queen mother, the queen of the prescribed clothing. There are two forms of phoenix crowns in the Ming Dynasty, one is worn by the concubine, and the crown is decorated with phoenixes and dragons. The other is the color crown worn by ordinary women, which is not decorated with dragons and phoenixes, only decorated with beads and hairpins, but it is also customarily called phoenix crowns.

The queen often wears a dragon and phoenix bead crown, wears a red large-sleeved shirt, adds a xia veil on the clothes, a red Luo long skirt, a red jacket, and a dragon and phoenix ornament on the special bun of the first dress, and the clothes are embroidered with a woven gold dragon and phoenix pattern. Shrimp takes this as a big-sleeved shirt.

This is called Xia Wei, it is a kind of veil, its shape is like two color exercises, around the head and neck, draped on the chest, hanging a gold and jade pendant. The Xiahui appeared as early as the Northern and Southern Dynasties

Ming Dynasty dark green weaving gold yarn through the shoulder persimmon pedicle shaped Xiangfeng shirt (heirloom in kind)

This is a blouse. The style is cross-collar, right-handed, long wide sleeves, left and right open skirts, white silk collar, white silk sleeve edges, and narrow cuffs. The texture is diameter yarn, and the plain weave flower is entwined with sawn lotus. The shoulders and sleeves are woven with gold for the cloud shoulders and the sleeves are auspicious phoenix patterns, and the inner part is decorated with a saw lotus pattern

This dragon and phoenix robe is red silk ground, embroidered with gold color dragon and phoenix and standing water pattern, the robe style is a standing collar, the right side, the sleeve width is 53 cm, plus 41 cm of the sleeve. The neckline is 17 centimeters wide and 5.4 centimeters deep. Sixty centimeters wide at the waist. The hem is ninety-three centimeters wide.

Ming Dynasty peach red yarn ground color embroidered cloud python skirt

The lady's headband "Scarf" is a kind of crown ornament, like a crescent-shaped arc-shaped ornament. Wearing a short jacket and a long skirt

----------------------------- Hanfu, also known as Han Yiguan, the traditional costume of the Han nationality in China, also known as Han costume and Chinese costume, is from the accession of the Yellow Emperor (about 2698 BC) to the end of the Ming Dynasty (the middle of the 17th century AD) for more than 4,000 years, with the Chinese etiquette culture as the center, through the successive Han dynasties to respect the Zhou rites, like heaven and law and form a thousand-year-old etiquette clothing system. Since the Yellow Emperor, Yao, and Shun hung their clothes and ruled the world, Hanfu has had a basic form, after the inheritance of the Zhou Dynasty's etiquette, to the Han Dynasty to form a perfect clothing system and popularize to the people, but also through Confucianism and Chinese law system to influence the entire Han cultural circle. Han people, Hanfu, Chinese, and Chinese customs got their names from this. Japan, North Korea, and Vietnam have all enacted laws to emulate the Han clothing system.

The basic characteristics of Hanfu are the handover collar, the right side, the knot with rope and belt, and the use of belt hooks, etc., and the plate collar and straight collar are its beneficial supplements. Structurally, Hanfu is divided into ten parts: collar, placket, skirt, jacket, sleeve, sleeve, sleeve

A complete hanfu usually has three layers: a small coat (underwear), a middle coat, and an overcoat.

Hanfu is the traditional national costume inherited by the Han nation for more than 4,000 years, and it is the clothing that can best reflect the characteristics and beliefs of the Han people, and is a necessary component of Chinese etiquette and culture. Each of the characteristics of Hanfu can be found in the Four Books and Five Classics, the Twenty-Four History, and the Subset of the Classics. Each ethnic group has its own distinctive national costume, and Hanfu embodies the national characteristics of the Han nationality. From the Yellow Emperor to the Ming Dynasty for more than 4,000 years, the Han nation relied on its own wisdom and belief to create a gorgeous and colorful Hanfu culture, and developed a clothing system with its own unique characteristics of the Han nation - the Hanfu system.

From the perspective of shape, the coat mainly has the "upper and lower clothes" system (clothes refer to the hakama in ancient times), the "deep clothes" system (sewing the upper and lower clothes together), the "skirt" system (undergarments, that is, short clothes), hakama, and the "general tailoring" system (long shirts, outer drapes) and other types. Among them, the crown dress with the top and bottom is the most solemn and formal dress of the emperor and the hundred officials; The robes (deep clothes) were worn by officials and scholars, and the skirts were worn by women. Ordinary working people generally wear caftan brown (short coat on the top and long hakama on the bottom). Hanfu was changed from the oldest clothes of the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, and the continuous clothes or deep clothes were originally worn by the princes and princes, and were used as the first ceremonial dress since the Han Dynasty.

Han cloth is divided into: brocade, silk, silk, Luo, silk, cloth, cotton, linen, yarn and so on. Zhou Li stipulates that there are silk and dyeing people engaged in printing and dyeing. Traditional dyeing materials include: safflower, black plum, reed, sumac, scarf, alum, amaranth, locust flower, citrus, bayberry bark, bluetooth leaves, lotus seed shells, mung bean flour and so on. [9] The dyeing of classical fabrics follows the ancient system, reflecting the Chinese belief in the five elements of yin and yang. There are six images and six colors, green is like the wood of the east, red is like the fire of the south, white is like the gold of the west, black is like the water of the north, Xuan is like the sky, and yellow is like the earth. In addition to the six positive colors, there are also corresponding intermediate colors: 纁 [yellow and red], purple [cyan red], red [red and white], green [blue and yellow], and ethereal [blue and white]. The intercolor is also the color system of the Tang and Song Dynasty official uniforms, and the public uniforms are of five grades: Zhu, purple, crimson, green, and green. In addition, there are cyan [dark blue and red], scarlet [red], Jiang [big red], Ti [Danhuang], and Zhu [deep silk].

Hanfu is developed from the clothes of "Yellow Emperor Yao Shun hangs his clothes and the world rules". The ancient six costumes of the Son of Heaven, the six costumes of the queen, the Confucian costumes, and the sword costumes are located in the center of the Hanfu system and have been followed for more than 4,000 years. The crown costume is the root of all Hanfu, and it can best reflect the Chinese belief of "Jedi Tiantong", and it is also the auspicious costume for the Han people to worship the gods and ancestors for thousands of years and communicate with heaven and earth.

If we compare the Han Chinese with the European peoples, we will find that the two are clearly different in many ways. The overall style of Han costumes for thousands of years has been based on light and easy. This style is best reflected in the ancient robes of the Han people, and the main feature of this robe is the wide robe. Big sleeves, praise clothes and belts, although the shape is simple, but once worn to the person, everyone is the same, the look is different, and the plasticity is very strong. Although we can't see the prototype of this kind of clothing now, we can still get a glimpse of its appearance from the silk paintings of the Han Dynasty and some figure paintings left over from the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties - the simple shape of the Han costume coat attached to the characters of different postures suddenly has a kind of fresh vitality, the lines are soft and smooth, which makes people think about it. The plain and easy outfit adds a natural charm to them. The robes fully reflect the soft and comfortable, elegant, detached, and calm national character of the Han nation, as well as the plain and natural, subtle and euphemistic, elegant and fresh aesthetic taste. (1) The violent coercion of the historical shaving of hair has disappeared, and Hanfu tends to be revived. (2) Inheritance: Inheritance: The history of Hanfu is inherited. In this long period of time, the development of the history of Hanfu has been following the characteristics of being passed down from generation to generation and from generation to generation, which reflects the inheritance of the historical development of Hanfu. (3) Diversity and identityDiversity and identity refer to the diversity of Hanfu styles and the identity of Hanfu types (or styles). As a thing with a history of 1,000 years, Hanfu was not a style in the first place, and the colorful styles such as "tops and bottoms", "deep clothes", and "skirts" reflect the diversity that should be due as a long-standing national costume. Although Hanfu has always been rich in styles, the basic shape (or style) of Hanfu is "handed over to the right side of the collar, without buttons, but tied with rope and tie knots" The characteristics have not changed through the ages, which is the identity of Hanfu. The unity of identity and diversity is a major feature of Hanfu. (4) CompletenessCompleteness refers to the completeness of Hanfu's own internal system. After thousands of years of development, Hanfu is already a mature clothing, it is not only rich in internal variety, exquisite craftsmanship, but also Hanfu accessories are also very diverse and rich. (5) Compatibility Compatibility refers to the integration of Hanfu and traditional culture, Hanfu has been regarded as a symbol of authentic traditional culture to a large extent, and Hanfu itself embodies traditional culture everywhere, and Hanfu and traditional culture are a harmonious family.

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