Chapter 100: Hanfu

The traditional Chinese costume is commonly known as Hanfu.

Hanfu, also known as Han Yiguan, Han costume, and Chinese costume, is from the accession of the Yellow Emperor to the end of the Ming Dynasty, in the main residential area with the Han nationality as the main body, with the "Huaxia-Han" culture as the background and leading ideology, with the Chinese etiquette culture as the center, through natural evolution and formed a unique Han national style and character, which is clearly different from the traditional clothing and accessories system of other ethnic groups.

The Manchu Qing Dynasty entered the customs, the country was subverted, and Sun Zhiqi, the No. 1 traitor in Tianzi, put forward a proposal to shave his hair and make it easy to wear, which was adopted by Dolgon. Since then, the most representative costumes of Han culture have been annihilated in the long river of history.

Even if the Manchu Qing Dynasty was subverted and the nation became independent, at this time the atmosphere of the West had already affected the East. Great China seems to have forgotten its past glory and forgotten its ancestors, and it turned out to be ****.

What's even more ridiculous is that the neighboring countries that have been influenced by Chinese costumes still retain their traditional clothing culture......

Hanfu began with the Yellow Emperor, prepared in Yaoshun, derived from the Yellow Emperor's crowning uniform, and was finalized in the Zhou Dynasty.

In the Han Dynasty, the entire crown and clothing system was completed and became a part of the Shinto religion, or spiritual beliefs. Therefore, later all Chinese dynasties Junzong Zhou, Fa and Han took the inheritance of the Han clothes crown as a national event, so there were 24 histories of public opinion.

Hanfu has also influenced the entire Han cultural circle through the Chinese legal system, and some ethnic costumes in East Asian countries have or borrowed Hanfu characteristics, but this cultural influence has been abandoned by themselves.

Walking down the stairs, Audrey playfully put a handkerchief to her lips and asked with a smile, "Jonas, is it pretty?" ”

Zhou Nan nodded and said with a smile: "It's beautiful, but it's still a little bit of charm." ”

"What's the charm?"

"Salute."

Audrey's rough Chinese level was a little difficult to understand Zhou Nan's words, and at this time, Mrs. Lin, who was downstairs behind her, explained with a smile: "The salute is the most quintessential part of our traditional Chinese culture, which is equivalent to your Western handshake ceremony and veneer ceremony. It has the advantages of hygiene, time-saving, beauty, and independence, but due to the decline of modern times, our culture has also declined. ”

Audrey looked back with some curiosity and asked, "What is it like?" Can I learn? ”

Mrs. Lin walked downstairs with a smile and said, "Of course you can, but there are many kinds of rituals, which are functionally divided into sacrifices, social interactions, and life etiquette, and there are a total of ten categories of actions, each of which represents a different occasion, and I only know a little about these, and I can't be considered proficient." ”

Zhou Nan raised his head and asked, "Mrs. Lin, the disconnection of history has made our traditional culture missing. Ancient buildings have been preserved a lot, but the ancient traditional etiquette and traditional clothing have not been inherited so far. I want to pick it up again, but I don't know how to start, I wonder if my husband can teach me? ”

Mrs. Lin pondered for a while and said, "Except for architecture, my knowledge of other aspects is not elegant, if you really want to sort these out, I can recommend a friend of mine to help you." ”

"I don't know who it is?"

"I don't know if you've heard of Shen Chongwen? His vernacular is popular all over the country, and he can be regarded as a generation. And he also has a strong interest in traditional Chinese clothing, and has been researching this area. ”

How could Zhou Nan not know him? When Zhou Nan was a teenager, his favorite writer was him. At that time, he was also teaching in Green Island, but Zhou Nan didn't have a chance to see him.

The candidate mentioned by Mrs. Lin is indeed very good, and his "Research on Ancient Chinese Costumes" has made him from an author with warm words and sentences to a scholar with rigorous evidence, and Shen Chongwen has completed the transformation from a writer to an expert in the history of clothing.

"Can you get in touch with him?" Zhou Nan asked hopefully. He knew Mr. Shen's history and knew that he had suffered for decades, and it would be a blessing if he could use this to make the rest of his life better.

Zhou Nan is not an immortal, he can't save everyone, and most people probably don't want Zhou Nan to save him. Everyone has their own fate, and what Zhou Nan thinks is good, I'm afraid it will be depraved for them.

"He is now a teacher at Peking University, if you tell me in advance, maybe we can come to Switzerland together!"

Zhou Nan said with a smile: "The University of South China is about to be organized, and there is a shortage of teachers and professors from all walks of life. I hope that Mr. Lin can help me connect with a group of teachers, and I will definitely treat them with great courtesy. ”

Mrs. Lin nodded and said, "There is no problem for me to invite you, but I dare not guarantee whether it will be able to make the trip." If they could contact the country in South China, I think it would be much easier for them to travel. ”

"Nanhua will not be established until January, and the construction of the university will be even later, so I will focus on this next year." Zhou Nan hesitated for a moment and said, "If Mr. Lin and Mr. Liang are willing to give in, I am willing to wait for them." The position of Head of Architecture, or even Vice Chancellor, you can choose whatever you want. ”

Mrs. Lin laughed, shook her head lightly and said, "Let's talk about it......"

During dinner, Zhou Nan mentioned the invitation of Mr. Liang to work at the University of South China, and Mr. Liang was also relatively indifferent.

Although there is no more civil war in the country now, it is the root of all Chinese after all, and most people are reluctant to leave it. Everyone longs for the end of the war, the arrival of peace, and the return of the motherland.

Zhou Nan was not disappointed, throughout the fifties, the environment was still relatively relaxed. Although there are some liquidations, they are still relatively peaceful, but the days are a little harder.

It is equivalent to saying that he still has more than ten years to introduce talents.

After dinner, several women went to the theater in the city to watch the opera, and Mr. Liang also accompanied him, only Zhou Nan did not go, and stayed at home in the name of writing.

However, instead of writing, he recalls the different styles of clothing in each period of antiquity.

In another life, he wore almost all Taoist robes in the second half of his life. In fact, the Taoist robe is also a type of Hanfu, which was improved from the pleats of Hanfu in the Ming Dynasty, so he is not unfamiliar with national costumes.

From the Yellow Emperor Yaoshun to the Ming Dynasty, with a history of more than 4,000 years, the evolution of clothing is also an intuitive historical embodiment of the development of the Han nation. Although the style of clothing has changed repeatedly over the millennia, the basic structure and type have not changed much.

Among them, the right side of the collar, the wide sleeves of the praise shirt, and the lace concealed buckle are the most significant features that have not changed since ancient times.

However, if Zhou Nan wants to carefully distinguish the differences in the clothing styles of each era, the differences in production methods, and the differences in printing and dyeing, Zhou Nan does not know why.

If you want to sort these out systematically, you need a professional to do it.

Moreover, Nanhua is located in the tropics, hot and humid, and it is absolutely inappropriate to transplant the Hanfu culture just by rigidly transplanting it. Why? Because it's so hot, how can you wear so many clothes?

Therefore, if you want to promote Hanfu in Nanhua, you must also adapt measures to local conditions and specially develop clothing suitable for the local weather, so that it can be promoted.

Zhou Nan does not require everyone to wear Hanfu as a regular wear, but at least like Dongying, this tradition must be continued.

When attending crown ceremonies, weddings, funerals, sacrifices, banquets, elegant music, theatrical performances and celebrating traditional festivals, everyone can wear Hanfu, which is the existence and continuation of the nation.

Zhou Nan drew on the sketch for a long time, although he drew some sketches of different styles of the Han, Tang, Song and Ming dynasties, but he couldn't grasp the details.

Zhou Nan thought about it and decided not to care about the traditional style for the first time, so he specially designed two sets of simple single-layer Hanfu, which were ready to be worn when he went to Nanhua to participate in the founding ceremony at the end of the year.

If he doesn't lead by example, who will approve of that!

After thinking about it for a long time, he chose the clothing style of the Wei and Jin dynasties as the main style to be promoted in Nanhua.

The clothing style of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period was simple and solemn, and the Qin and Han dynasties continued the style of the previous generations, paying too much attention to it.

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Lao Zhuang and Buddhism became fashionable, and the "Wei and Jin demeanor" was also expressed in the clothing culture at that time.

Wide clothes and belts have become a popular clothing for everyone from princes and nobles to ordinary people. Men dress openly and with their arms exposed, striving for a relaxed, natural, and casual feel. Women's dresses have long skirts that fall to the floor, with large sleeves and layered ribbons, showing elegance and flowing.

As for the clothing style of the Tang Dynasty, it was too complicated and not suitable for the tropics, and as for the style after the Song Dynasty, it was not what Zhou Nan liked.

At the very least, Hanfu must be better looking and more elaborate than Dongying's kimono, so as to establish a sense of superiority in people's hearts.

Compared with the style of the Ming Dynasty and the kimono, people look like aristocrats, and you look like servants, which is too embarrassing.

The clothing style of the Wei and Jin dynasties was elegant, the design was simple, and it could even be worn as regular wear in the tropics. The main thing is to look good, so that it can trigger the mentality of young people to follow the trend.

When Mr. Liang and the others returned home, Zhou Nan had already drawn two sketches, one for men and one for women.

The men's style is still right-handed, with a larger neckline and a pair of bloomers-style pants underneath.

The women's version uses a pair of plackets, which is also in line with the aesthetic design of later generations for women. You designed it to be right-handed, and you blocked the chest, so that men were unhappy and women didn't want to wear it.

However, this is just a style of design, and Zhou Nan doesn't understand how to do it.

Mr. Liang and Mrs. Lin are connoisseurs, although they do not specialize in these, but when they study ancient buildings, they also have some understanding of ancient costumes and etiquette, and they have made a lot of suggestions to Zhou Nan.

Until late at night, Zhou Nan looked at the revised drawings and decided to come back from the hot spring, so he called Givenchy. Let him look at the drawings and help him design his clothes.

Although this design is not yet perfect, many places do not even follow the exquisiteness and tradition of Hanfu at all. But at the very least, it's tropical, cool, and looks good.

As a starting point for the promotion of Hanfu, this set of designs is already very good.

Audrey was still looking at the women's skirt as she lay on the bed. "Such beautiful clothes, this is simply charming......"