Chapter 108: One Foot of Cloth, Half a Husband
Of course, the hostesses of the empty wooden pier were not learning to listen to the whistles, they had long been accustomed to this way, and they had mastered the rhythm of the long and short after listening to a few sounds, and besides, these whistles did not apply to them, and their daily quota was not much, which could be easily completed, and they had sewed a lot of clothes in the summer city. Pen @ fun @ pavilion wWw. biqUgE。 info
In fact, in the past two days, they have also been learning, or discussing, how to sew a garment as quickly as possible, how to save the most fabric?
It may seem like a simple question, but it's hard to actually do.
The reason is simple, because at this time the widest linen cloth was only a little more than a foot wide, and it took many steps to sew a garment, and it was impossible to cut it from a single piece of cloth, or even a dozen pieces of cloth to be put together.
Why is it only a foot wide? For cloth is woven by men.
Linen cloth is also a kind of warp and weft cloth, and naturally, like all weaving procedures, after the warp threads are dense, the shuttle threads are relied on to pass the weft threads through these dense warp threads to form a weaving structure.
The odd number of warp threads is at the bottom for the first time, the even number of warp threads are at the top for the first time, and the shuttle leads the weft thread across it; Then the odd number of warp threads is on top, and the even number of warp threads are below, and the shuttle leads the weft thread back from the other end.
This requires the woman who weaves the cloth to be able to hold the shuttle with her left hand and throw it with her right hand, and then the odd and even warp lines change up and down, and then use her right hand to throw the shuttle back to her left hand from between the odd and even warp lines, which is considered to complete a cycle.
Therefore, the width of the weaving cloth is only related to the distance that the human hands can throw left and right, before the invention of the "shuttle", if you want to broaden the width of the weaving, you can only increase the manual responsible for the shuttle, which is obviously not as good as taking the time to sew the two pieces of cloth together to save time.
Even in the age of steam, the principle of shuttle weaving has not changed, it is nothing more than that the shuttle has changed from a human to a mechanical bounce. The earth has gravity, and it takes a lot of speed to make the shuttle fly almost straight, which is the source of the unbearable noise in the textile mills of the steam age.
This is an immutable condition, and all garment-making thinking can only be fixed within this condition.
The solution that Chen Jian came up with was a workshop system similar to an assembly line, where some people specialized in cutting, and some specialized in sewing blouses, sleeves, collar buttons, and so on.
The least process, the most economical fabric, the fastest speed, this is the problem to be solved by the garment department.
In the past, the clothes were made by individuals, so they naturally fit the body and were very comfortable. But if this kind of workshop pseudo-assembly line production, it is impossible to guarantee that every piece of clothing will fit.
As early as in Xia Cheng, when Yu Qian'er and the others were just introduced to numbers and units of measurement, Chen Jian asked them to count the average height of their clansmen.
At this time, turn it out, according to the standard deviation variance, which I learned a long time ago, and then divide the men and women into two numbers as a whole.
These two sizes are certainly not suitable for everyone's height and size, but they can be worn overall. At least this is not casual, which needs simple statistics as a basis, otherwise the standard size clothes made cannot be the most widely applicable.
The biggest problem caused by Xia Cheng's various strange units of measurement is that in the history of this world, I am afraid that the word husband will not appear, because Xia Cheng's ruler is not a corn ruler but a wheat ruler.
In the history of the word husband, the ruler is a millet ruler, the length of a hundred grains of corn is one foot, and the husband of one zhang is only strong; And according to Xia Cheng's wheat ruler, the husband of one zhang has gone beyond the scope of people.
All in all, it is absolutely impossible for Jian Chen to be a manly man in this era, and he can't even cultivate more than eight feet and have a beautiful appearance, and most men in Xia Cheng can only be described as five feet tall.
After determining the standard average height and width, a person with a marked figure was found from a crowd of people in Yucheng, and stood in the room as a mold, and these women who were good at sewing clothes figured out the most economical way to save fabric and work.
Every woman is a master of frugality, and in this era, no cloth can be wasted, and each woman also has her own different way of fiefdoming.
One was given a piece of linen, a copper knife or a rare pair of copper scissors, and they were not asked to make it, but they were asked to cut the cloth according to their own way of cutting.
The most economical way must have the most processes, and the most economical way must use the most materials, what Chen Jian has to do is to find out the balance between the processes and materials from the cutting methods of these women.
It took a day to decide on a way to cut and sew, but there were still many steps before the final completion.
From cutting to final garment, a total of 14 pieces of fabric are required, and a total of 23 processes are required. From the special production of wooden molds to facilitate the cutting according to the map, to the sewing of the sleeves at the end, Chen Jian has to assign special people for each process.
However, the time required for each process is different, so Chen Jian has to ensure that the women in the garment department of the dyeing workshop are divided into 23 parts, but the number of people in each copy is different, and at the same time, the number of each copy is required to be completed in the same amount every day.
According to the standard of those female workshop workers today, Jian Chen asked the women of Xiacheng to select the stupidest Xiacheng women here.
It is difficult to choose the best one for anything, but it is very simple to choose the stupidest one, and the women laughed and chose the stupidest people in sewing, and Chen Jian asked someone to bring the fabric, and calculated the completion of each process in an hour with an hour as the time.
Roughly according to half of the efficiency, the manpower required for each process is estimated to ensure the perfect connection between the upper and lower processes.
Four or five days had passed since all this was done, the first batch of wool felt from the Dyeing Workshop Division had been made, and the women in the garment department had already understood the meaning of the various whistles, and Chen Jian finally breathed a sigh of relief.
Everything has to start from scratch, and no one can help him, because the method here is not the same as Xia Cheng, and he can only open this head by himself.
The reason for the relief is that the garment department can be counted as a model, from the planning statistics to the model of the operation of the workshop, everyone involved in the Xiacheng has learned what they have to learn.
People in the Programme Statistics Division knew a certain meaning of statistics; The people of the Dyeing Workshop Division know the operation method of division of labor and cooperation; The workshop workers learned discipline, and inevitably learned the use of weights and measures and numbers in the summer city in their later work—and in the future their descendants could be exposed to one, two, three, and rulers at an earlier age.
It is impossible for the Dyeing Department to do only these two things, and in the future there will be special spinning, wool spinning, weaving, dyeing, and so on, but no matter what new departments emerge, they can continue to operate according to this method.
Jian Chen no longer needs to work hard to start from scratch, he only needs to adjust the plan in general, or come up with a new plan.
As far as next year is concerned, the Dyeing Division has a lot more to do. A number of the rest of the towns were to be dyed, a large amount of leather was to be cut into simple leather armor to be sold, a group of wool-weaving teachers were trained, a group of skilled wool-playing workers were trained, a group of professional tailors were trained, a group of professional weavers were trained, and many new and simple planned wood and iron tools were to be tested......
These are used as seeds, which will be taught by these people in the future, and once the system is established, it will work proficiently, as long as there are no problems with the people in the Planning and Statistics Division. (To be continued.) )