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type

The type of women in the Han Dynasty is usually based on the bun, which is generally from the center of the head to distinguish the head road, and then the two strands of the head are braided into a bunch, which is reversed from the bottom to the top, and is pulled into various styles, including the fallen horse bun on the side, the bun such as the spiral snail, and the name of the Yaotai bun hanging cloud bun and the bun of the lily bun and the concentric bun. The bun is generally not decorated, and most of them are made in the bun style. The queen is also decorated with a golden step and a shake of the flute.

The basic characteristics of Hanfu

The main feature of Hanfu is that it is handed over to the right side of the collar, and it is tied with a rope belt without buttons, giving people a free and elegant impression. These characteristics are clearly different from the costumes of other ethnic groups. Hanfu is divided into formal dress and regular dress. From the perspective of shape, there are mainly types such as the "upper and lower clothes" system (clothes refer to the lower skirt in ancient times), the "deep clothes" system (connecting the upper and lower clothes), and the "underskirt" system (undergarments, that is, short clothes). Among them, the crown dress with the top and bottom is the most solemn and formal dress of the emperor and the hundred officials; The robes (deep clothes) were worn by officials and scholars, and the skirts were worn by women. Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes on top and long trousers on the bottom. Accessory headdress is one of the important parts of Han costume. In ancient times, both men and women of the Han nationality wore their heads in a bun and coiled on their heads and fixed them with a flute. Men often wear scarves and hats, etc., in a variety of shapes. Women's buns can also be combed into various styles, and various ornaments such as beaded flowers and walking rocks are worn on the bun. The temples are decorated with sideburns on both sides, and some wear hats and hijabs. [2]

The specifications of the men's wear

"The Yellow Emperor hangs his clothes and rules the world", the right placket is handed down, the wide robe with the big sleeves, the big sleeves and the big belt (represented by the Qin and Han costumes), which continued the Xia, Shang and Zhou (Spring and Autumn Period, Warring States), Qin and Han Kingdoms, the Three Kingdoms, the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Song, Meng, Yuan, and Ming dynasties, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. This is the case with the most common style of Japanese kimono.

The crewneck shirt (worn by Li Shimin, Taizong of the Tang Dynasty), which became popular since the Sui and Tang dynasties, continued the Song, Meng, Yuan, and Ming dynasties of the Tang Dynasty, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. Song Taizu and Ming Taizu are all wearing this type of clothing. To this day, the clothes worn by the Japanese emperor on certain occasions are a variation of this hanfu. [2]

Women's style

There are slightly more styles for women's clothing, but there are only two basic styles:

The placket is on the right side of the collar (also represented by Qin and Han costumes).

The large placket and low-cut that arose in the Sui and Tang dynasties, which are different from the deep clothes of the Qin and Han dynasties, are divided into tops and bottoms. No longer like deep garments. These two styles of women's clothing had a great influence on the national costumes (women's clothing) of the Song and Ming dynasties, as well as Japan and Korea. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, Han women also wore Hufu with narrow sleeves and tight lapels, but those Hufu were basically worn as popular clothing (or out of curiosity), not traditional Han ethnic costumes. During the Song and Ming dynasties, Han women also wore some other styles, but their influence was not widespread.

Everyone saw that the costumes of the Qin, Han, Tang, Song and Ming dynasties were somewhat different in some places, but the main part was the same. The basic style of the deep clothes of the Western Han Dynasty and the Hanfu of the Ming Dynasty is the same, but they are different in details. The commonality is the large placket, the right side of the collar, the wide robe, the large sleeves, the cloth and the wrap belt. In fact, Hanfu such as the large placket, the right side of the collar, the wide robe, the large sleeves, the cloth and the wrap belt, were still worn by the Han people during the Tang Dynasty, but in the north centered on Chang'an, the round neck was the main one. In the Wuyue area, both are taken into account, and the Song and Ming dynasties are similar. The Japanese kimono was introduced during the Asuka Nara period (Tang Dynasty in China) and became the Japanese kimono it is today.

What is the style of Han costumes? If we compare the Han Chinese with the European peoples, we will see that the two are clearly different in many ways. The overall style of Han costumes for thousands of years has been based on light and easy. This style is best reflected in the ancient robes of the Han nationality, and the main characteristics of this robe are wide robes with large sleeves, praise clothes and belts, and the shape is simple. But as soon as it is worn on people, they are the same, their looks are different, and they are very malleable. Although we can't see the prototype of this kind of costume now, we can still get a glimpse of its appearance from the silk paintings of the Han Dynasty and some figure paintings left over from the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties - the simple shape of the Han costume coat attached to the characters of different postures suddenly has a kind of fresh vitality, the lines are soft and smooth, which makes people think about it. The plain and easy outfit adds a natural charm to them. The robes fully embody the Han nation's soft, quiet, comfortable and elegant national character, as well as the plain, natural, subtle, euphemistic, elegant, and fresh aesthetic taste.

(1) Historicity

Although the violent coercion of shaving has disappeared. Hanfu tends to be revived, but it is no longer possible to become a regular dress. Because, in order to reduce the resistance to communication, the backward people are accustomed to changing their appearance according to the habits of the people.

(2) Inheritance

Inheritance means that the history of Hanfu is inherited. In this long period of time, the exhibition of Hanfu history has been following the characteristics of being passed down from generation to generation and from generation to generation, which reflects the inheritance of the Hanfu history exhibition.

(3) Diversity and identity

Diversity and identity refer to the diversity of Hanfu styles and the identity of Hanfu types (or styles). As a thing with a thousand-year-old history, Hanfu is not a style in the first place. The variety of styles such as "tops and bottoms", "deep clothes", and "skirts" reflect the diversity that should be expected as a long-standing national costume. Although Hanfu has always been rich in styles, the basic shape (or style) of Hanfu is characterized by "handing over the right side of the collar without buttons, but tying knots with rope belts", which is the identity of Hanfu. The unity of identity and diversity is a major feature of Hanfu.

(4) Completeness

Completeness refers to the completeness of Hanfu's own internal system. After millennium of exhibitions. Hanfu is already a mature costume, it is not only rich in internal variety, exquisite craftsmanship, but also very rich in Hanfu accessories.

(5) Compatibility

Compatibility refers to the integration of Hanfu and traditional culture. To a large extent, Hanfu has been regarded as a symbol of authentic traditional culture, and Hanfu itself embodies traditional culture everywhere, and Hanfu and traditional culture are in harmony. [2]

Historical Exhibition

Hanfu is the abbreviation of Han costumes: it mainly refers to the Han costumes formed in the process of natural cultural exhibitions and ethnic blending before the end of the world.

As an independent clothing system, Hanfu has formed a unique cultural background and national style in the inheritance and exhibition of history, which has formed distinctive style characteristics, and is obviously different from the traditional clothing of other ethnic groups in China and any nation in the world, and is qualitatively different from modern clothing in terms of standard style.

The Han costumes are broad and profound. Because of its long history, wide range of applications, and in the continuous innovation and integration of the evolution, it is difficult for people who have less research on Chinese clothing to grasp, and as a large clothing system, can not only define Hanfu by appearance and simple system, but should be defined by its dominant style.

Therefore, the definition standard of Hanfu can be expressed in the following words: "From the Yanhuang to the Song and Ming dynasties, the Han (or the pre-Qin period, it was Huaxia) people wore the clothing as the basis, and on this basis, it naturally evolved and formed a collection of clothing with a distinctly unique style." ”

The definition of Hanfu - the traditional costume of the Han nationality is mainly based on the following three considerations:

First: the nationality of Hanfu, that is, Hanfu is the costume of the Han nation. And the clothing worn by the Hu people in ancient China cannot be called Hanfu. Ethnicity is a holistic concept, so the clothing of the Hu people worn by a Han person cannot be called the traditional clothing of the Han people.

Second: the tradition of the Hanfu Exhibition, and the tradition must be divided into two aspects, namely inheritance and unity. The inheritance of Hanfu is manifested in the fact that the origin of Hanfu can be traced back to the period of the Yellow Emperor in ancient China, and has always retained the style inheritance and continuous evolution. The unity of Hanfu is manifested in the common characteristics of all Han costumes in the mainstream of China's vast land from the Yellow Emperor period to the Song and Ming dynasties, in a time span of nearly 5,000 years, and a spatial breadth of millions of square kilometers. That is, the right side of the large sleeve deep coat as a typical representative.

Third, the naturalness of the Hanfu exhibition, that is, the natural exhibition that is not easy to be clearly perceived by people when the Han people are consciously and voluntarily forced by external forces, which is also the regular law of general things or cultural exhibitions. The naturalness of the Hanfu exhibition is the basis for the inheritance of a nation's traditional clothing, that is, the proper direction of the evolution of a certain thing or culture under its own normal exhibition trajectory. Its direction can be traced forward to its source through general laws, and its development direction can also be predicted backwards.

Defined by this, in ancient China, in addition to Qing costumes, as long as the costumes worn by the Han people before the end of the Ming Dynasty were integrated and differentiated regardless of the style and region, they can be called Hanfu, and modern ancient costumes, in addition to Qing costumes, although they are different from ancient times, are also reasonably restructured according to the traditional style, so they can also be called Hanfu. Hanfu is easy to distinguish from the traditional clothing of other ethnic groups (including modern costumes) with the naked eye, and now this kind of Hanfu is also known as "ancient costumes (except for Qing costumes)".

The costumes of the Qing Dynasty, traced back to the Manchu costumes, are also not Hanfu traditions. Therefore, although it is worn by Han people, it does not conform to the "traditional" elements of Han traditional clothing, so it cannot be classified as Hanfu; The clothing worn by the Han people today is mainly from the West, and the main (to distinguish the main and secondary) sources such as the "Tang costume" horse coat and cheongsam come from the traditional clothing of the Manchus, so it cannot be called: the "traditional clothing" of the Han people. That is, it is necessary to distinguish the difference between the clothing worn by a Han person and the traditional clothing of the Han nation as a whole.

Hanfu is one of the oldest national costumes in the world.

Before the age of archaeological physical support, the earliest appearance of Hanfu should be the Yin Shang period. (To be continued.) If you like this work, you are welcome to come to the starting point (.) to vote for the recommendation vote monthly ticket, your support is my biggest motivation. For mobile phone users, please go to M to read.

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