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The memory of the national costumes of the later generations of Yan and Huang is simple and profound, as if those years were the world of coats, cheongsams, and tunics, and these are still the dresses of the middle and upper class, which ordinary people basically can't reach and can't afford. These and the "blue ocean" in the 50s, the "green military uniform" in the 60s, the "green, gray and blue tricolor insects" in the 70s, the "hundred flowers blooming" in the 80s, and the "international fanaticism" in the 90s constitute the "family tree" of Yanhuang people's clothing for more than half a century.

After the main plane entered the 21st century, the spiritual and cultural demands of the people in Yanhuang to revitalize the prestige of a great country, realize national rejuvenation, and regain the traditional national culture were combined with the characteristics of the commodity market economy to continuously require segmentation and discovery of the market, which constituted a relatively niche but very stable domestic Tang costume Hanfu consumer market.

The definition of Tang costume and Hanfu is actually rather vague. The media, newspapers, the Internet, and so on all have their own standards and definitions. But no matter how they are described, they all have one thing in common: Tang clothing does not only refer to the clothing of the Tang Dynasty, and Hanfu is not limited to the clothing of the Han Dynasty.

Because the Tang Dynasty was a dynasty that made the people of Yan and Huang proud and excited, the Tang Dynasty was famous and famous. Therefore, since the Tang Dynasty, all countries in the world must call the Yanhuang people "Tang people", and the Chinese residential areas in Europe, Stars and Stripes and other countries are also called "Chinatowns", and most of the overseas Chinese also call themselves Tang people, so it is natural and logical that the Chinese people living in Chinatowns are wearing clothes with the traditional style of Yan and Huang are called "Tang costumes".

Although the term Hanfu has not been proposed for a long time, it has long existed naturally. Since the Shang Dynasty, the clothing forms of the Han people have been determined: placket, right side, upper and lower clothes. In the Zhou Dynasty, there was a "deep coat", that is, the "clothes in the form of long robes" for the common people in China later. Hanfu is a flat cut, does not emphasize the characteristics of the human body, and uses style, color and decoration to distinguish the identity of men and women, forming a completely different form and style from Western clothing. And no matter how the basic elements of Yanhuang traditional clothing evolve, there is always a core that has not changed, that is, wide, easy-going, and elegant.

The first target plane.

The founding ceremony of the Yanhuanghong Party has entered the countdown, but what costumes the leaders wear to climb the ** city tower is still being discussed. If you refer to the history of the main plane, then the tunic and coat are very appropriate choices. However, from the perspective of reviving national culture, if Lao Mao and others wear Tang costumes and Hanfu with the traditional characteristics of Yanhuang to board the **, and announce the establishment of the new Yanhuang Democratic Republic. Then it can not only correct the name positioning of these clothes and costumes, from "wild road" clothing to elegant halls, but also further enhance the self-confidence and pride of the Yanhuang nation, and dilute the folk influence of Western symbols such as suits in Yanhuang.

At this time, in a courtyard house in the old city of Beijing, more than 20 people were sitting around to discuss and hold a meeting, and a lot of fabrics and costumes were placed around them, red, green, brown, flower, plain, striped, which can be described as rich in color and in a variety of styles.

Before the Yanhuanghong Party liberated and recovered the occupied areas occupied by the Japanese invaders across the country, Zhang Ailing's "Changing Clothes" had become popular all over the country. There are many fashion inspirations in it, which are borrowed from Western clothing. But these are the noble lives of the propertied class in metropolises such as Beijing and Shanghai. In the ancient city of Yangzhou, civilians still take the original Yanhuang traditional Chinese costume as the mainstream.

Lu Xuehao, a skilled folk tailor, has lived in Yangzhou since he was a child, and studied under his father's family skills. His father, Lu Changshan, is to make Hanfu for ordinary civilians for a living, due to the chaos at that time, and the service objects are all poor families, so the clothing category is relatively monotonous, mostly Tsing Yi long shirts, melon skin hats and the like, but the craftsmanship is absolutely guaranteed, tailoring, buckles, piping, online, not sloppy at all. It is with a simple professional conscience that in the war-torn era of the Republic of China and the lack of material, the exquisite quality of Tang costume Hanfu craftsmanship has been preserved and passed down.

In the middle of the Republic of China, on the Caiyi Street in Yangzhou City (including the nearby lots), there were many garment shops lined up, and the famous one was Wu Zhengkui's house, which was close to the God of Wealth Temple; Tailor Zhang's house at the head gate of the sheep; Li Hongquan and Yuan Xuehai's family in Mida Lane; Fan Deaf and Zhu Lao'er in Tianning Gate; Caiyi Street, Lu Changshan's house, and so on. These shops all make a living from the production of ready-to-wear garments with the characteristics of the Yan and Huang ethnic groups. However, it is a pity that although the tailors in Caiyi Street are all skilled, because of the warlords and the war in the world, it is almost a problem for the people to eat, and secondary factors such as clothes will naturally be in the back row. Therefore, the family support of the tailors is only to maintain a difficult life, food and clothing.

In the mid-30s of the 20th century, Lu Xuehao, who had achieved a lot of learning, went to Nanjing, the capital of the Republic of China, to explore the world, and then moved to Shanghai a year later. At that time, Shanghai was the meeting point of Eastern and Western cultures, and it was also an important cultural town of Yanhuang. In the thirties, the concept of Shanghai clothing was unconventional and fashionable. It was precisely this concept that formed the social trend of "only valuing clothes and not people" in Shanghai at that time. The timing coincided with the popularity of cheongsam, which made Lu Xuehao, who was born in Tang costume Hanfu craftsmanship, even more like a fish in water. Under his dexterous hands, the cheongsam style has been constantly updated, and the neckline is high, the sleeves are short and long, the slit is high and low, and the matching decorations are frequently and easily, which has won the praise of customers. Even in many old movies in the thirties of old Shanghai, the charming cheongsam worn by the star in a certain shot was sewn by Lu Xuehao himself.

It is precisely because of his outstanding reputation in the industry and his own admirable craftsmanship that Lu Xuehao was invited to Beijing with many top masters in the industry to discuss the specific design ideas and tailoring styles of the new "Tang Hanfu" with domestic aesthetic and cultural masters.

"I myself think that the national costume of Yanhuang, that is, the so-called Tang costume Hanfu, should focus on reflecting the traditional cultural charm that the Chinese people show through their own bodies and inner national language. Men wearing Tang costumes should focus on showing their elegance, extraordinary bearing, and elegance and handsomeness; The women's cheongsam highlights the graceful and luxurious, dignified and elegant, charming and exquisite, showing the gentle and subtle oriental charm. Zhao Shigang, an expert in traditional Chinese culture, spoke first.

"I agree with Zhao Lao's suggestion." Wang He, a painter at the Yanhuang Painting Academy, nodded and said, "The national costume should have enough variable parts, such as color: it can be bright red and gorgeous, and when you wear such clothes, you can hear the gongs and drums in the Chinese wedding; It can also be light purple noble and indifferent, and the flickering light and shadow in the folds of the clothes vaguely reflect the desire to refuse and welcome; It can also be a black intoxication, and you can experience a luxury washed by the years when you wear it. In short, it should be a kind of 'embodiment' of national culture. ”

"Mr. Lu, you have been engaged in the actual production of Tang costumes for many years, you should have your own ideas, can you say it and communicate with all of us?" Qi Baishi saw Lu Xuehao, who was sitting on the chair, nodding and thinking, and suggested.

"Well, you are all gentlemen and scholars, I have not read many books myself, so I will only briefly talk about my experience as a tailor over the years. We have a mantra for doing Tang outfits, called 'five, four, six collars, eighteen buttons', which is the most basic essentials, no matter how the clothing changes, this can not be changed, so as to ensure the quality of the clothes made; There are also flower-like patterns that have been inherited and used in Tang costumes since ancient times, such as dragon and phoenix Chengxiang, dragon flying phoenix dance, nine dragon playing pearls, etc., and crane and deer with spring, magpie Dengmei, phoenix opera peony and other patterns, I also brought, whether these can be used, should not be used, I hope you can make a charter first; Finally, traditional Chinese clothing is not cinched at the waist because of the lack of curvaceous beauty in women's clothing, and now some customers have asked to change it to a cinched waist. In the past, the hem of the skirt was very narrow, and you could only walk in broken steps, but now the skirt is bigger, etc., do you need to take these into account? ”

"I think it's very necessary, like the placket of the cheongsam, the traditional one is very high, my friends feel very uncomfortable, it always feels a little awkward to wear, if the placket is lower, it will be comfortable." After hearing Lu Xuehao's speech, a female representative immediately answered with great sympathy. This is an older middle-aged lady and one of the celebrities of the Republic of China. A few days ago, when the Red Party had just recovered Beijing, because she was not clear about the Red Party's policies, she restrained herself for a while, and when the Red Party's policies were gradually announced to the public, she found that the Yanhuang Red Party, which was rumored to be a communist wife, had no offense against herself, and encouraged them to go out and encourage a hundred flowers to contend. She got an errand in the Calligraphy and Painting Association, teaching young students Yanhuang traditional Chinese painting Danqing, which not only gave full play to her interests and specialties, but also had a stable income, so as to maintain the family's standard of living, which was not cheap.

Today, in order to reflect the beauty of the traditional national costume, she specially dressed up to attend. At this time, she was wearing a blue dark flower soft satin sleeved cheongsam, and the edges, neckline, and cuffs of the robe were inlaid with knurled brocade edges three points wide. On top of the cheongsam, another set of green silk vests. On the feet, there are a pair of black soft-soled embroidered shoes, showing a clear and sparse charm. The permed hair is undulating and shiny and neatly covers the forehead. On top of the beautiful eyes, the eyebrows seem to be made by a painter. The pink lipstick sets off a mouthful of neat teeth, and the lilac-brown silk scarf tied around the neck and the flesh-colored coral pin on the chest are like a stream of water under the refraction of the sun, adding a bit of vividness.

"Mr. Min (Ms. Guan of the Republic of China is also called Mr.) is very right, is there anything else?" Qi Baishi encouraged.

"I still have some women's clothes, but most of the leaders are men this time, so calmness should be the first priority, so you have to make a trade-off in color. For example, cyan"

In this way, in your words and my words, in the opinions of the masters of Yanhuang culture and experts from all walks of life who are involved in clothing, the Yanhuang Xinguo (Han) costumes and Tang costumes of the first target plane were slowly conceived.