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His subordinates agreed. This Luzon Island does not belong to the jurisdiction of the Qing court, it is completely our territory. Moreover, the island is full of Han people, and there is no Manchurian, so it is natural for the Han people to be well-dressed. I'm ashamed that my subordinates have stayed in Luzon for nearly half a year, but they have never considered this issue! Li Guangdi was sincerely ashamed, as a Han Chinese, he had actually taken the clothes of the Manchurians for granted, if it weren't for Geng Jingzhong's special reminder, he would still not be aware of it.

"I don't blame you at all, our generation has kept the Manchurian hairstyle since I was born, and I also wear the clothes of the Manchurian, and it is normal to not remember my Han clothes. But I can't remember it for a while, I can't remember it forever, and now this king has decided to abolish the Manchu costumes and hairstyles in this Luzon Island, and officially restore my Han clothes! Geng Jingzhong said categorically. I've been thinking about this for many years, and I can't really implement it until now, and I'm very happy in my heart.

"Chirp!" Li Guangdi paused in thought, then pulled the reins, and walked a few steps quickly to catch up with Geng Jingzhong. "It's okay, when I returned from this inspection, I ordered Xu Shan to be in charge of this matter. But Lord Wang, can you think about which kind of clothing to use? Is it still the outfit of the former Ming? ”

"I haven't thought about this yet, I have been in China for thousands of years, and all dynasties have their own characteristics, but I really need to think about it. But personally, I still prefer the original Han Dynasty clothes, which are simple but very solemn! In Geng Jingzhong's impression. But there are many styles of Hanfu such as zài. So many costume dramas in later generations are not for nothing. Although it is said that there are many costume dramas. The style of Hanfu is not standard at all, but those epic masterpieces and blockbusters are still trying to restore history. When Geng Jingzhong graduated in his previous life, he also participated in the Hanfu Activity Club, participated in and co-organized several Hanfu revival activities, and had a good understanding of these things.

The culture of the Han nation can be said to be one of the oldest cultures in the world, and the development of Hanfu has existed since the birth of the Han nation. There are some ancient texts that believe that the Han and their ancestors had a unique clothing system for a long time. For example, the "Historical Records" believes that "Chinese clothes were made by the Yellow Emperor" and "before the Yellow Emperor." There are no clothes and houses. and the Yellow Emperor built houses, made clothes, and held funerals, so that all the people were saved from the difficulty of survival. "Before the age of archaeological physical support, the earliest appearance of Hanfu should be the Yin Shang period. About 5,000 years ago, during the Yangshao culture period in the Neolithic Age, China produced primitive agriculture and textile industry, and began to use woven linen cloth to make clothes.

After Yin Shang. The crown and clothing system was initially established in the Western Zhou Dynasty. The clothing system was gradually improved, and a chapter uniform system centered on the "crown dress of the Son of Heaven" was formed. "Serve the crown of Zhou" is the essence of Confucian governance thought, and Zhou rites are based on the etiquette system of the Xia and Shang dynasties. By the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the styles of clothes were unprecedentedly rich, mainly expressed in deep clothes and hufu. In the later part of the Zhou Dynasty, due to the drastic changes in politics, economy, ideology and culture, especially the hundred schools of thought had a certain impact on the perfection of clothing, the clothing and customs between the vassal states began to have obvious differences, and the deep clothes were created. The crown and uniform system was included in the scope of "etiquette" and became the form of etiquette, and since then China's clothing and clothing system has been more detailed.

"In ancient times, the clothes that passed up and down were deep clothes, and the clothes that represented the characteristics of the times were also deep clothes, and deep clothes could actually be the characteristics of ancient clothes. Those who speak ancient clothes should be the first. What is Shenyi, "The Book of Rites. "Deep clothes" Kong Shi justice said: "Therefore, those who are called deep clothes, with the rest of the clothes, the upper clothes and the lower clothes are not connected, and the deep clothes are connected, and the body is deep, so it is called the deep clothes." In short, the system of deep clothes is actually the first of the ancient clothes, and the leaders of the deep clothes are not only in its institutional form, but also up and down, and in terms of time, it is the most popular. Along with the deep coat appeared the hufu, which generally consisted of a short coat, trousers and boots, and the body was tight and narrow, making it easy for nomadic herding and hunting. In order to strengthen his own army, King Wuling of Zhao first adopted Hufu as a military uniform in the Central Plains. As a result, wearing Hufu became popular for a while. In addition, musicians wear hoods, dancers have sleeves that are several feet long, hunters' clothes and trousers are mostly tightened, and some people often wear horn hats or magpie tail crowns, and wear small sleeves and long skirts.

After Qin Shi Huang unified China, various systems were established, including the clothing and crown system. The etiquette system of the Han Dynasty was formulated by the Taichang uncle Sun Tong of the Han Gaozu according to the etiquette system of the Xia and Shang dynasties. In the Western Han Dynasty, there were two kinds of women's deep clothes, straight and curved, and the cutting was different from the deep clothes of the Warring States Period. The neckline of the Western Han Dynasty men's deep coat is wide to the shoulder, the right side is straight, the front placket is drooping to the ground, in order to facilitate activities, the back placket is cut from the knee below the trapezoid, so that the two sides of the placket into a swallowtail shape. Women in the Han Dynasty liked to wear broken undergarments and long skirts when they were working, and the top of the cinch was decorated with a long belt; Men in the Han Dynasty wore broken shirts, calf nose trousers, and cloth skirts around their clothes, which were worn by farmers and merchants.

As for the Ming Emperor of the Eastern Han Dynasty, with reference to the clothing system of the Three Dynasties and the Qin Dynasty, the Han Dynasty crown clothing system was established with the crown hat as the main symbol to distinguish the ranks. The overall clothing presents a dignified and elegant style. Men in the Qin and Han dynasties mainly wore a kind of robe with wide sleeves and large sleeves, which were mainly divided into two categories: curved robe and straight robe, which could be worn on other occasions except for sacrifices and court meetings. Another feature of the Han Dynasty period was the implementation of the ribbon distribution system. Han Dynasty women generally brushed their hair back and twisted it into a bun. There are many names for bun styles, and they are too numerous to mention. In addition, the heads of aristocratic women are also decorated with steps and hairpins. Slaves and maids often wrapped their heads in scarves. The dress of the women of the Han Dynasty was a deep coat, which was different from that of the Warring States period. There are also those who wear skirts and trousers. The Han Dynasty also had strict grading rules for shoes.

The costumes of the Wei and Jin dynasties and the Northern and Southern Dynasties were influenced by social politics, economy, ideology and other aspects, and developed from the old system of the Qin and Han dynasties in the Wei and Jin dynasties to the mutual influence, mutual absorption and gradual integration of various ethnic groups in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. The costumes of this period are mainly characterized by natural and free, delicate and sparse. Wrapping the head with a towel is the main first wear of this period. The more popular is a "cage crown" with a scarf on top of a small crown. The clothing of Han men in this period was mainly shirts with wide cuffs and no restraints. The hair ornaments of Han women are also quite distinctive, mainly the popularity of wigs. During the Wei and Jin dynasties, women's clothing inherited the customs of the Qin and Han dynasties. Improvement on the basis of tradition. Generally, the upper body wears a shirt, jacket, and undergarment. The lower body wears a skirt, the style is mostly thrifty and rich, the body part is tight-fitted, the cuffs are fat, the skirt is a multi-fold pleated skirt, the skirt is long and the hem is loose, so as to achieve a handsome and chic effect.

And the costumes of the Tang Dynasty are connected to the top. The French service and the regular service are in parallel at the same time. The French dress is a traditional dress, including crowns, tiaras, clothes, dresses, etc.; Regular clothes, also known as official clothes, are generally worn on formal occasions, including round-necked robes, hats, leather belts, boots, etc. By the Tang Dynasty, the system had been formed. Civilians are mostly dressed in white. The women's buns of the Tang Dynasty were complicated. There are also those who insert golden hairpins and rhinoceros combs on their sideburns, and noble women make goose yellow, flowers, and makeup on their faces. Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty was mainly skirts, shirts, and drapes. The skirt was the main style of clothing for women in the Tang Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women's short undergarments were worn with small sleeves, tight long skirts, and the skirt waist was high, generally above the waist, and some were even tied under the armpits. And tied with ribbons, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts of the Middle Tang Dynasty were wider than those of the early Tang Dynasty. Nothing else has changed much.

The costumes of the Song Dynasty generally followed the old system of the Sui and Tang dynasties. However, due to the fact that the Song Dynasty was in the midst of internal and external troubles for many years, coupled with the influence of factors such as Cheng Zhu Lixue, the clothing of this period advocated simplicity, rigor and subtlety. The soft-footed hat of the Tang Dynasty had evolved into a hat lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquered yarn. Emperors and dignitaries wore foot heads, messengers and servants wore footless heads, and Confucian scholars wore headscarves. In the Song Dynasty, men's clothing was still dominated by round necks, and officials wore robes except for sacrificial court meetings, and different colors were used to distinguish ranks. The hairstyle of women in the Song Dynasty was expensive in the late Tang Dynasty, and hairpin flower arrangement has become a custom. The women's skirts of the Song Dynasty were narrower than those of the Tang Dynasty and had fine pleats; The shirt is mostly a placket and covers the skirt.

During the Yuan Dynasty, the long clothes were collectively referred to as robes, and there was little difference between the north and the south in terms of style, but the materials were expensive and coarse, but there was a huge difference. The hairstyle of Han men has not changed much, but the hairstyle of Han women in the north is simpler than before. At the beginning of the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, it tried to eliminate the influence of the Mongolian costume system of the Yuan Dynasty on Hanfu, and "ordered to restore the dress like the Tang system", but it was not fully implemented. It was not until the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu that many uniform systems began to be determined. During the Ming Dynasty, cotton cloth was popularized, and the clothing materials of ordinary people improved. The main first clothes of Ming Dynasty officials followed the Song and Yuan dynasties and were slightly different. The clothing of ordinary people is long, short, shirt, or skirt, which basically inherits the traditional clothing style, and the variety is very rich. During the Ming Dynasty, in addition to the hats worn by ordinary people, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, issued throughout the country, and the Shishu were universal, namely the six-in-one hat and the Sifang Pingding scarf.

The hanfu of each dynasty is different, but the general style of popularity has not changed much. Our Hanfu is usually cut from cloth with a width of two feet and two inches, that is, about 50 centimeters, and is divided into ten parts, such as collar, placket, jacket, jacket, sleeve, belt, and yun. Take two pieces of cloth of equal length, fold them in half, use them as the front placket, and sew the middle seam of the back. The placket is a straight-necked cardigan. If you take another piece of cloth, cut it into two pieces, and sew it on the left and right plackets, it is a right shirt with a diagonal collar. The middle seam of the front placket is called the placket, that is, the pulse of the governor, the pulse of Ren, and the right side of the vein, so it is called the right side. The length of the skirt is divided into the waist, the knee, and the foot. According to the length of the coat, there are three fixed lengths of Hanfu: undergarment, caftan, and deep coat. The seam between the sleeve and the placket is called the jacket, and the cuff is called the di. A complete hanfu usually has three layers: a small coat (underwear), a middle coat, and an overcoat.

When the placket on the left side and the placket on the right side of the Hanfu cross on the chest, the neckline is naturally crossed, so it is vividly called "handing over the collar"; The two straight lines of the collar are like the symmetry of traditional culture on the left and right lines of the clothes, showing a unique rhyme, representing the impartiality of life. The sleeves are round coats, which represent the round sky in the round place. This kind of extinction of the circle of local science on the Hanfu is also a manifestation of ancient Chinese culture.

The most typical collar type of Hanfu is "hand over the collar right 衽", that is, the collar is directly connected to the placket, the placket is crossed in front of the chest, and the placket on the left side presses the placket on the right side. Lapel. The original meaning of the placket. The left placket is flanked to the right axillary frenulium. Cover the right placket inside. It is called the right side, and vice versa. This is the tradition of "handing over the collar to the right" that has remained unchanged in the style of Hanfu in the past dynasties, and it is also inseparable from the Chinese idea of "respecting the right", which is obviously different from the costumes of other ethnic groups.

The other kind of "hand-in-collar" is supplemented by "straight collar" and "disc collar". A straight collar is when the collar comes down vertically and directly parallel to the chest without crossing it at the chest, some have a tie on the chest, and some are directly open without a tie. This kind of straight-collared clothing is generally worn over the cross-collared hanfu. It is often used in everyday outerwear styles such as blouses, half-arms, and jackets. The disc collar is a more common style in men's clothing, the collar is a plate-shaped circle, which is also right-handed, with a tie on the right shoulder, which is used in Han and Tang official uniforms, and there are also disc collar styles in daily clothes.

Since ancient times, Hanfu has been praised for dresses and belts, and short clothes with wide sleeves have been often dressed. Compared with the Western clothing of the same period, Hanfu has indisputable superiority in terms of human nature. While Westerners used breastplates and skirts to restrain women's body development, the wide hanfu had achieved the characteristic of allowing the body to stretch at will. The sleeves of Hanfu are also known as "robes", and their shape is relatively unique in the entire history of national clothing in the world. The sleeves, in fact, are all round coats. Represents the round of the sky in the place of the round sky. The width and length of the sleeves is a distinctive feature of the sleeve shape of the dress in Hanfu, but. Not all hanfu is like this. The dress of Hanfu is generally wide-sleeved, showing a graceful, elegant, solemn, elegant and agile demeanor. For a long time, the standard style of Hanfu sleeves has been the round coat, and the physical objects reflected from the pre-Qin to the Han Dynasty are all without exception. For a long time, except for the small sleeves that were open in regular clothes after the Tang Dynasty, the mainstream of Hanfu sleeves was still round and round.

"Wide and long sleeves" is the main feature of the sleeve shape of Hanfu dresses, but it is not the only style feature, and small sleeves and short sleeves are also more common in Hanfu. There are mainly several uses: common people's clothing for daily physical labor, military uniforms for sergeants and generals, and winter clothing for keeping warm with tight sleeves. Sometimes the economic and cultural and aesthetic concerns of various dynasties in history are different, and there are also different expressions in the sleeve shape, for example: the aristocratic dresses of the Han and Tang dynasties mostly used wide sleeves, and the regular clothes of the Song and Ming dynasties mostly used small sleeves.

The buttons in Hanfu are also very special, and the most characteristic is the hidden button, which actually includes two cases: buckled and unbuckled. Under normal circumstances, Hanfu does not use buttons, and even if there are buttons, the buttons are hidden and not exposed. It is usually done by tying a knot with a strap to tie the clothes. At the same time, there are large and long belts around the waist. All the straps are made of the fabric from which the zuò clothes were made. There are two pairs of straps for a piece of clothing, practical, a strap under the left armpit and the strap of the right placket are tied in a pair of knots, and the strap under the right armpit and the strap of the left placket are tied together, and the two pairs of straps are knotted and tied respectively to complete the dressing process. The other is the large and long belt around the waist, which is not only practical, but also decorative, in addition to symbolic meaning, symbolizing power. The large belt of the hanfu is wider than the kimono.

Hanfu is the traditional national costume inherited by the Han nation for more than 4,000 years, and is the crown and clothing system in the Four Books and Five Classics, which is a necessary component of the etiquette culture inherited on the basis of the Confucian classics "Book of Songs", "Book of Songs", "Zhou Li", "Book of Rites", "Book of Changes", "Spring and Autumn", "Kaiyuan Ceremony" of the Tang Dynasty, the Twenty-four Historical Records and other subsets of classics and histories. The Hanfu system shows the hierarchical culture, kinship culture, political culture, emphasis on the elder over the young, and the Confucian idea of benevolence and righteousness. In the context of ancient Chinese patriarchal culture, clothing has the role of notorious, distinguishing prestige, and distinguishing the noble and lowly, and is the dress of auspicious rites, fierce rites, guest rites, military rites, and jia rites. In addition to the etiquette of national events, the family rites of ordinary Han people include four ceremonies, including crown weddings and funerals. The Four Books and Five Classics have a detailed description of the Hanfu dress.

The overall style of our Han costumes for thousands of years is mainly light and easy, and pays attention to the unity of nature and man. This style is best reflected in the ancient robes of the Han people, and the main feature of this robe is the wide robe. Large sleeves, praise clothes and belts. From the silk paintings of the Han Dynasty and some figure paintings left over from the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang dynasties, we can see one or two of his appearance--the simple Han costume coat is attached to the characters of different postures, and suddenly has a kind of fresh vitality, with soft and smooth lines. The robes fully reflect the soft and comfortable, elegant, detached, and calm national character of the Han nation, as well as the plain and natural, subtle and euphemistic, elegant and fresh aesthetic taste.

Taking the most typical deep clothes as an example, its shape must conform to "rules, rules, ropes, and trade-offs". The hem of the deep coat is made of 12 pieces of cloth, which should be the meaning of December in a year, reflecting a strong Fatian thought, the sleeves are arc-shaped to meet the rules, and the collar is rectangular to respond to the square, which means that there must be rules for life, and the so-called no rules are not a square circle. The sash droops long to the ankle to represent uprightness, and the placket is flush with the ground to represent trade-offs. Contains a lot of Confucianism. When people wear Hanfu, they will naturally pay attention to their words and deeds, which shows that Hanfu contains considerable cultural connotations, and is influenced by the philosophical ideas of "Confucianism, Taoism, Mo, and Law", and the influence of ethics and morality is fully reflected in the clothing. The pursuit of peace and nature, no quarrel with the world, and the realm of generosity and benevolence have shaped the "Hanfu" style of unity between nature and man, elegant and free. "Hanfu" also reflects the wearer's magnanimity, easy-going and inclusive bearing. This kind of bearing, even the Wa Kingdom and North Korea, which have learned Chinese culture, have not reflected!

"Well, the costumes of the Han Dynasty are indeed very good, and the decorations of the Ming Dynasty in front of me are also good. Although it shows that Taizu Zhu Yuanzhang has also set many uniforms, his subordinates believe that clothes can be flexible and changeable, and what they wear should be able to choose according to their preferences. But the main body still awakens the recognition of my Han people with Han clothes, just like the young people of our generation, they are about to forget what is going on in Hanfu! ”

Geng Jingzhong also nodded in agreement: "You are right, the identification with Han Yiguan is part of our national consciousness. I think that when the Wuhu Rebellion was in China, the intellectuals and people of all walks of life in the Central Plains fled to the south one after another, so that the fire of the Central Plains civilization was retained, and the Jiangnan was gradually developed into a prosperous and prosperous land. It's a pity that now the Qing court is very strict against our Han people, and for the time being, we can't restore the Han clothes on the mainland, so we can only implement it here first! ”

"Hmph, our Hanfu has had a far-reaching influence with the spread of our Chinese Confucian culture, and the surrounding ethnic groups, including many other Confucian cultural circles, have imitated the Chinese etiquette system, and have borrowed some characteristics of Hanfu for the five ceremonies of the auspicious and evil bin military and the five ceremonies. In addition, even the Chinese Binli stipulates that the monarch of the four Yi must wear his own costume to meet the Chinese Son of Heaven, which should be called "the lord of Fan obeys his national costume". In the vassal system of the Han and Tang dynasties, the leaders of the surrounding ethnic groups still had the so-called "Chaoji" system of regularly meeting the emperor. Whether it is a foreign monarch and his envoys or courtiers to pay homage to the Chinese Son of Heaven, accept official positions, make contributions, or the Chinese Son of Heaven entertains foreign monarchs, foreign monarchs must wear state clothes and pay tribute. Our national costume system has prompted the surrounding ethnic groups to form their own national costumes, such as the former Khitan Taizong entered the Jin Dynasty and came into contact with the Central Plains clothing system. In all dynasties, there were "Gong Gong Tu" depicting the costumes of other countries' envoys, but now look at those "Gong Gong Tu", it's just that we Han people have lost their own clothes, which is really a big joke! ”

Li Guangdi saw that Geng Jingzhong was still unhappy, so he said with relief: "Lord, since you have decided to restore the clothes of our Han people on Luzon Island first, there is no need to worry about this matter!" If you are still a little anxious, you can send someone back first, inform Xu Shan, let him organize the tailors and painters in the city, plus the scholars who have studied clothing, first restore some of the styles of Hanfu, and wait until a few days, after your inspection, return to Manila is just right to decide which clothing styles to use? ”

Geng Jingzhong listened and nodded incessantly. So he turned his head to one of the guards beside him and said, "You heard what this king and the chief of the general staff said just now!" Any idea what we're talking about? ”

"Back to the prince, my subordinates understand!" The guard replied immediately.

"Okay, then the king will give you this important task, and you will be responsible for the overall incident. You immediately turn the horse's head now, quickly convey the meaning of this king to the Governor of Xushan, and ask him to help you organize the manpower, and do it in accordance with the advice of the chief of the general staff just now, I hope that when I come back in a few days, your task has been completed!" ”

"Yes! Mission completion guaranteed! (To be continued......)