I came to the river city of Wuhan when ** was the most raging, a few days ago on this train has a porter has been shown to be sick ** and quarantined, but also added some thrilling feelings to the journey, wearing a mask and gloves on the train after a sleepless night, finally arrived at Hankou Station.

The exit of Hankou Station has always been crowded, although the current epidemic has caused more than 50% fewer passengers than in the past, but this is the same as the other, all passengers are required to fill out the physical condition questionnaire, to write clearly the train seat number, name, ID number and the last ten days to go to where they have been, so tossed up, a large group of people with masks, passengers from Tiannan and Haibei gathered into a small pile, the degree of congestion is no less than in the past, finally fill out the questionnaire, in the body temperature detector and a large group of police, Under the supervision of epidemic prevention personnel, through the narrow exit, Hankou Station faces Wuhan's famous traffic artery: Zhan Avenue.

Wuhan is very large and is divided into three towns, of which the left bank of the Yangtze River is Hankou and Hanyang, the right bank is Wuchang, and the left bank is divided into two parts by the Han River, Hankou on the upper and Hanyang on the bottom. Each individual town is almost the size of Nanjing, the town is currently not divided into administrative regions, it feels like a Ming and Qing Dynasty a kind of military or bureaucratic name, by extension, we can understand as a very important, transportation hub and military town meaning. Each of the three towns of Wuhan has a completely different sense of historical vicissitudes, and Hankou, hearing this name, comes to mind the European-style buildings on Jianghan Road, the coolies on the wharf of the Yangtze River and the long-roaring passenger boats, and the central government of Wuhan in the twenties, and the phantom of politicians and warlords who premeditated the confluence of Ninghan and Han still haunts the high-rise buildings on Jianghan Road. Hanyang, when I hear this name, I first think of a rifle, a rifle that is the most widely used and oldest in China called the Hanyang-made old sleeve, the imitation Mauser 1888 style. Then there is Zhang Zhidong, who stands in front of the modern factory with chimneys and black smoke, Zhang Zhidong, who wears a flower feather and a horse coat. Wuchang, needless to say, the Wuchang Uprising, belongs to him, in the dark night full of dangers, the soldiers with braids waiting for the opportunity, the governors and marshals wearing new-style military uniforms, and the Revolutionary Party League in suits and leather shoes from Nanyang. In short, the history of Wuhan will not be reminiscent of too long ago, some are just the modern history of heavy suffering, from the Xinhai Revolution to the confluence of Ninghan and Han, and then to the defense of Wuhan, a black and white film mixed with a little snowflakes, mechanical refugees, dock workers, the Northern Expeditionary Army, the leaders of the labor movement, the Japanese army invading China, hurried in front of the camera, this is the history of Wuhan, only the majestic Yangtze River can witness this tragic white and blood-red modern history.

After getting off the train, there are several means of transportation to choose from, the choice must be the bus, Wuhan's public transport service is relatively good, city buses and trolleybuses, as well as small buses walking between the suburbs. Most of the cars are not so new, and the cars in the suburbs are still the kind of old-fashioned models that get on the bus from the middle door, if you want to make an old movie in the 80s and lack of bus props, it is recommended to go to Wuhan to find it, and it is all over the place. The routes in the city are unmanned ticketing, the strange thing is that the ticket is divided into two kinds of one yuan and two yuan, two corners of this small amount of coins is one of my least favorites, the usual use is to make a green background at the bottom of the beggar's bowl, but on the bus in Wuhan without him is really not good, either you change the change, or you vote more, anyway, no one makes change. Of course, there are exceptions, after dark the drivers will be plugged with towels or other handy things, he will also sit under the warning sign prohibiting the driver to give you change, I have no opinion on this convenience measure, but I don't know if the manager of the bus company will agree. Wuhan is very large, people's work place is often far away from home, which causes few cyclists, bicycle lanes in other cities in Wuhan as bus stops and pedestrian walkways, buses often stop in a long line next to the curb stone of the sidewalk, so that outsiders feel inexplicable, is it not that these cars are all lying in the nest?

To go to work in a distant place of course to do the bus, if the bus is not so many places or shuttle between the streets and alleys, you need two other convenient and fast means of transportation, numb and motor, numb is a three-wheeled motorcycle, called Mazda in Nanjing, by the traffic management agency to operate the license, the front half of the body is a motorcycle, the back half of the body is a small compartment sandwiched on two wheels, there are doors, there are two rows of seats, sitting numb walking on a bumpy country road in the dark, can turn your stomach upside down, but** Such comrades must have liked to sit, the smell of gasoline, the sound of motors, the bumping of your head against the roof of the car, the whole war years. Numbness is parked next to the bus station and residential areas, there will be a long line of numbness waiting in some important positions, the starting price is two yuan, according to the distance of the road the driver will bargain with you, you are a foreigner they may quote a high price, nine-headed bird, but I almost do not bargain with them, sometimes give an extra one or two yuan, driving numb people are landless farmers in the suburbs and laid-off workers in the city, men and women in their forties and fifties, frugal clothes, full of vicissitudes, maybe this numbness supports the livelihood of a poor family. There is a more convenient and cheaper means of transportation than numbness is motorcycles, presumably there are such things in many places, an ordinary straddle motorcycle, two helmets, is a source of life, the drivers are young and middle-aged men, the neon lights are bright and dark faces with exhaustion and loss, today's business is not good, is it a night of beer omission?

After getting off at Hankou Station, you can take the double-decker bus 1O bus, along the bustling Wusheng Road, you will come to the Guqin Terrace, which is a stone platform built of white marble, according to legend, it is the site of Boya Fuqin, although it is said that the tree covers the flowers, the ridge flies the eaves, but the history is impossible to examine, it is recommended not to see. After the Qintai is the famous Wuhan Yangtze River Bridge, older people will remember that the previous two dimes painted on this bridge, before the completion of the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge, this bridge built with the aid of the Soviet big brother has always been the pride of the Chinese, after all, the millennium of heaven into a thoroughfare, if you are interested, walking across this bridge is a good choice, the east of the river, the waves are exhausted, the eternal merry characters. Stop, how did you get to Chibi, it's far away from Wuhan. After crossing the bridge, you can see the golden and splendid building on Snake Mountain, the Yellow Crane Tower. This is the first building in the world, at the same time with the Yueyang Building in Hunan, the Tengwang Pavilion in Jiangxi and called the three famous buildings in China, was built in 223 AD, but unfortunately the Chinese dynasties are constantly fighting, the building in front of us was rebuilt in 1985, the Pavilion Pavilion Fang Lang Pavilion has everything, the people of the past have taken the Yellow Crane to go, the white clouds are empty for thousands of years, Li Bai does not dare to write down when he sees such a famous sentence, standing in front of the towering high-rise building, close his eyes, will you hear the chanting of the ancients, with the ancient sound of the Tang Dynasty band, dream back to the Tang Dynasty, This is probably the best place to be, and only in meditation can you experience the beauty of a thousand years ago.

Descend from the Yellow Crane Tower, walk down along Wuluo Road, it doesn't take long to arrive at Yi Square, as the name suggests, it is the place where the first shot of the Wuchang Uprising was fired, the square is divided into two halves by Wuluo Road, the north is the Hubei Military Governor's Mansion, a red brand-new European-style building, it was originally the Hubei Provincial Consultative Bureau Building of the Qing Dynasty, after the Xinhai Revolution was the stronghold of revolutionaries, in order to maintain the original appearance, the cultural relics protection unit funded the building to make it like last year's construction, standing in the middle of the courtyard of the Governor's Mansion, imagine the scene of the year, It was a vigorous scene born 9o years ago, but you have to close your eyes and think about it, because the brand new building really doesn't evoke any associations. There is a platform in the southern half of the square, and a white square pigeon occupies the platform, and the chubby pigeon with red eyes and red feet looks like a dish no matter how it looks. The tree-lined square is lush in the drizzle. The square is further south, is the Righteous Garden, listen to the name is also a revolutionary relic, in fact, it is a small commercial area, a lot of food stalls and restaurants, as well as handicraft shops or something, the two cannons at the gate are quite interesting, there are rifling in the muzzle, I don't know what I think is true, in fact, it is an imitation of the German Krupp 75 mountain gun, to be honest, the imitation is not very good.

In the Yiyuan, you can taste the flavor food of Wuhan. Hot dry noodles and tofu skin are popular foods that Wuhan people love "too early", which are cheap and affordable, and can comfortably fill their stomachs for a few dimes. It is said that in the early 30s, there was a man named Li Bao on Long Beach Street in Hankou who sold cold noodles and noodle soup in the area of Guandi Temple. One day, the weather was very hot, the noodles were not sold out, Li Bao was afraid that the noodles would spoil, so he cooked the remaining noodles and scooped them up and spread them on the board, accidentally touched the sesame oil pot, the oil splashed on the noodles, Li Bao simply mixed the sesame oil in the noodles, and then fanned the noodles to cool. The next morning, Li Bao blanched the cooked noodles mixed with sesame oil in boiling water a few times, filtered the water, put them in a bowl, and added chopped green onions and other condiments. Someone asked Li Bao what kind of noodles he was selling, and Li Bao casually said "hot dry noodles". Since then, hot dry noodles have gradually become an indispensable food for Wuhan people "too early".

The most famous Cai Linji's hot dry noodles, I didn't look for it to eat in the limited time, I found a restaurant in Yiyuan casually, I ate it, and decided not to eat it a second time, this is a matter of opinion, the taste can not be forced, at least Wuhan people like to eat very much, go to catch the bus in the morning, ten will meet the little sister who is too late to catch the hot dry noodles with a paper cup panting.

The bean skin is made of glutinous rice, eggs, diced meat, fresh shrimp, etc., and is made into a one-centimeter-thick and small square style. Fry in oil and serve on a plate. It tastes crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, delicious and delicious, oily but not greasy. The golden bright red and pink white is lovely, the taste is also good, oily, and I don't know if I have the courage to eat it if I am afraid of gaining weight.

In addition, Wuhan's famous foods include Jingwu duck neck, Wuchang fish, and stinky dried tofu, and the first two are not distinguishable from other places. The latter is strange, it is black, soaked in a spice bowl with vinegar, sesame oil, and coriander, and when you bite into it, it is snow-white inside.

Driving forward, it is worth seeing the East Lake, timidly speaking, this is almost the most beautiful lake I have ever seen. I took the company's Bora to simply walk along Donghu Road, Donghu South Road, Zhuodaoquan Road, the blue lake, the various scenic spots are scattered, clean roads, occasionally beautiful Wuhan University girls (I don't know why the school is not closed, maybe not female students at all) are running, there are kayaks on the lake, and a pair of men and women riding tandem bicycles, Luojia Mountain is wooded, and the campus of Wuhan University is clean and beautiful. If you can have a villa here, swim in summer, and walk by the lake, it is really a pleasant thing in life.

Speaking of beauties, Wuhan is a place rich in beauties, to name two examples, Liu Yifei and his mother who play Wang Yuyan, as well as Hong Kong's financial secretary's wife, Fu Mingxia, a first-time mother. It's all made in Wuhan. To see the beauty, it is best to go to Jianghan Road Pedestrian Street, which was originally a concession, the original European-style buildings are lined with steps, and the strange thing is that they are still in use now, the Wuhan Pass built of stone is still the customs of the People's Republic of China, and the tall bell tower may not have stopped for nearly a hundred years, silently looking at the living beings under the feet, and the crowds of people come and go. In the middle of the night, on the wharf of Wuhan Port, listening to the bell with the sound of the waves, will you hear the old glory of the bell?

The pedestrian street is not wide, old-fashioned buildings and skyscrapers are mixed, specialty stores and snack bars are one after another, Wuhan's fashion is very cheap, beauties can not let go of Wuhan, in order to make the trip worthwhile, I also bought a cotton European version of the casual shirt to fill the number, only 49 yuan, cheap enough. Beautiful and handsome little guys are in groups, but don't look at them randomly, the handsome guys in Hubei have a very violent temper, and they can't be beaten. It wasn't hot, it was raining lightly, and I was wearing a t-shirt, shirt and coat (corny enough). Most of the beauties are short-sleeved shirts and low-waisted denim, and some are sleeveless. Wuhan dialect likes to add a mood particle "sa". The beauties pushed the leftover stuff to their boyfriends, "Eat and sprinkle~~~~" The bones are crispy, and they have to eat the garbage. Therefore, when you see on the Internet, those who like to say "scatter" should be in the Huguang area.

Wuhan's street scene is not bad, skyscrapers are no worse than most provincial capitals, viaducts, light rail roads, wide avenues. The traffic lights in all directions, the drivers from the county will be dazzled, and the bustling city and the flashing neon cannot hide the weakness of the economy and the sorrow of laid-off workers.

Away from the neon and in the coin cart that can find money, you will feel trapped in a huge county town, no matter how you walk, you can't get out, the silence by the platform, the cigarette butts that go out in the dark, the men of Chibo sit around the smoky barbecue stalls, using beer and lamb skewers to eliminate the fatigue of the day, and the women who get off work haggle for cheap side dishes in the hands of peasant women who sell vegetables in baskets. The buildings are old, the people are tired, and the sky can see the stars.

Along the diagonal to the south of Wuchang, is the famous Hongshan District, famous because of his huge shantytown, I took the suburban bus in the morning, the scene along the way can be described as "waste capital". But Wuhan has never had the honor of being the capital, the buildings are not like Hankou is old but dilapidated, the grass is withered, it was once a song and dance field, the brick houses on the side of the road can vaguely recognize the slogan of the ** time, the collapsed façade room is piled up like a mountain of garbage, there are many factories, the rusty gate is set up with a five-pointed star, the factory is overgrown with weeds, the big trees on the side of the road are covered with dust, and the old-fashioned bus full of nails is bumped on the narrow road in disrepair and takes you into the seventies. This is Wuhan, where hell and heaven coexist, spent together in the 70s and the 21st century.

It is worth noting that the price of a driver's license in Wuhan is the lowest in the country, and the BC license is 16oo, and the traffic test is useless. Most of them are named with police stars, blue shields, provincial departments, municipal bureaus, etc., indicating that they have an extraordinary relationship with the power organs. Hopefully, these won't be a cradle for road killers. In Wuhan, there are a lot of privileged cars with Hubei license plates, and there are four Hubei cars passing behind them within five minutes. There are also a lot of military vehicles with the prefix of A, most of them are AR, and I have seen a white passenger and cargo of Aa, and I really want to take it off and hang it on our car, and since then it has been rampant all over the country. Hehe. There are also some pedal motorcycles with military license plates, which are related at a glance, and the beauty of riding motorcycles also wears pilot helmets, and the strange thing is that there are individual motorcycle police pilots with red star logos, which is simply inexplicable. The migrant workers on the construction site of the Triumphal Arch building under the second bridge are all GK8O steel helmets, green military uniforms, blue army pants, liberation shoes, and canvas H-shaped safety belts.

This is the impression of Wuhan in a few days, a glimpse of it. It is inevitable that there will be biases, so don't scold me from friends in Wuhan.

There are some fallacies about Hongshan District. In fact, it is further south of the Science and Technology Park, near Ma Yinglong Pharmaceutical Factory