Ruan lost his father at the age of three, and his family was poor. However, he was eager to learn and progress, advocating Confucianism in his early years, and later disappointed with reality and deeply feeling the impermanence of life, so he adopted an angry attitude of disdain for the famous religion of etiquette and law, and turned to the Taoist ideological track with the purpose of seclusion. ”

"Many people say that Ruan Ji is a deviant person, and his dress is controversial, so this is also the reason why many people do not recognize the costumes of the Wei and Jin dynasties as Hanfu. Of course, this is only a small part, and it is more the collision of ideas and cultures at that time, which led to their dissatisfaction and anger against those in power, but they have no choice but to do so. ”

"Actually, if you study Chinese language and literature, you should know that I have experienced four great ethnic fusions in history before I became today's Han nationality. That is, the people who take Han culture as their ideology are called Han people. ”

"The first period is the Spring and Autumn Period, and the second period is the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. It is characterized by ethnic migration, with a small part of the Han population going to ethnic minorities, and some ethnic minorities going to the Central Plains. ”

"This integration is not just about ethnic minorities and intermarriage, they also bring their lifestyles and costumes, as well as some habits. Therefore, the Wei and Jin Hanfu are composed of other elements. ”

"The current Wei and Jin styles mostly refer to the style of wide-sleeved or narrow-sleeved Hanfu collared blouses wrapped into skirts, which is the orthodox form of Hanfu, and evidence such as cultural relics and murals can be found. It's not the costume of the photo studio, or the speculation of the merchant. ”

"Then is Wei Jinfeng a means for merchants to seek benefits?" He Hao asked.

"When a merchant did Wei and Jin style, it was to seek profits, and if there was no benefit, he would not do it, because businessmen, merchants, no profit and no business, this has been the case since ancient times. In fact, many modern people have admitted that the clothing of the Wei and Jin dynasties was Hanfu, but they have doubts about the Wei and Jin styles. We generally call it Jian'an style and Wei and Jin style, and Wei and Jin style are not put forward in textbooks. Of course, there is no standard system for Hanfu in textbooks. It can only be said that they are very disgusted that Wei Jinfeng appeared in a way that seeks benefits, so they deny it. ”

"I still have doubts, then what they say is the evidence of the existence of Wei, Jin and Hanfu, that is, where did the murals and culture ever appear?"

Yang Tassel smiled: "The costumes of the Wei and Jin dynasties continue the traditional characteristics of the costumes of the Eastern Han Dynasty, and the painted female figurines unearthed in the Northern Wei Dynasty in the grassland slope of Xi'an, Shaanxi Province, comb cross buns, wear narrow-sleeved shirts and skirts, and the murals of the Wei and Jin tombs in Dingjiazha are all the embodiment of the style of the Wei and Jin dynasties. Of course, many people think that the orthodoxy of Wei and Jin Hanfu is the Jin shirt, and the kind of shirt is a collared and large-sleeved shirt, and Hanfu does not have this system. ”

"Then is this a Hanfu standard?"

"In fact, it is indeed a Hanfu system, because this is only one type of Hanfu system in the Wei and Jin dynasties, after all, there cannot be only one Hanfu system. Just like the improved version of Hanfu now, Jin Shirt and this form are both Hanfu. It's just that one is called Zhenggong Niangniang, and the other is a concubine who wants to become Zhenggong Niangniang, in the final analysis, they are all concubines of the emperor. ”

"Why do many people always like to mention Ruan's nationality when they were in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. Because at the time, he was an outlier. After his mother died, he still drank wine and ate meat, and he didn't cry when the guests came to mourn him, and the guests couldn't kneel down. Even what he is wearing today is normal, but at that time, he could only be described by two words ahead, yes, it was ahead of the curve. ”

At that time, many literati were dissatisfied with Sima Shi's regime, including Ruan. Although Ruan Ji is in office, he often goes out of office, which can be regarded as a way to express dissatisfaction. Later, people worshipped them for their courage in their actions. At that time, Taoist thought was very popular, and Taoism paid attention to doing things without fighting, benefiting without harm, cultivating them in the body, and its virtue was true. Therefore, the literati at that time had their own independent personalities. Their outfits have also changed a lot because of this personality. ”

"Several major elements of the Jin system, the first point, there must be a waist skirt: a lower skirt with a right-angled trapezoidal splicing structure. The second point can be: the shoulder inlay, the cuff inlay, various inlays, a pair of I-folds on the side of the joint (if there is no upper body, it will be very barrel and not suitable for big butt stars, and it is not suitable for external wear), the edge, and the free matching of the color of the skirt piece. Thirdly, there is absolutely none: "large-sleeved shirt", a shirt called a shirt with a side slit but a cut, and a pleated skirt of all-purpose square cloth (doubtful). ”

"That is, Wei and Jin Hanfu must have a waist to do it?"

"I said, okay, you are also the president of the Hanfu Society, you need to strengthen your knowledge in this area!"

"Ouch, I see, you can move on."

"The style with a waist is the style of Wei and Jin Hanfu, but it is not the only one, that is to say, Wei and Jin Hanfu do not necessarily have a waist shirt, because this cannot be verified. And the one we have unearthed shows a style without a waist. Therefore, there must be a waist shirt, and those who do not have a waist are not necessarily not in the Jin system. ”

"Clothing tailoring, especially the theory of tailoring figures, was introduced to China by Western countries in modern times. In other words, this kind of thing is more of a written record, and there is no technical terminology. ”

"Then Wei Jinfeng is Wei Jin "crazy", and is the merchant store selling studio clothes? ”

"In fact, although some merchants are seeking profits, they are already very conscientious, because they have studied this period of history, and then cut the Wei and Jin Hanfu according to the unearthed cultural relics and written records. Of course, there are more studio clothes, because studio clothes are more beautiful, fairy-like, and can be liked by many people. For those who like Han culture, they are easily deceived, and then mistakenly believe that the studio costume is Hanfu. ”

"Wasn't there a piece of news some time ago that caused a heated discussion in the Hanfu circle! said that a girl who likes Hanfu went to a Hanfu party, but she wore a studio suit, but she was ostracized and couldn't get off the stage. ”

"I heard it, and later it was said that this girl never touched Hanfu again."

"That's right, so what we need to do is to spread the correct concept and standard of Hanfu, so that more people know that this is a precious wealth left to us by our ancestors, and it should not be underestimated."

He Hao squinted at Yang Tassel and said, "Don't say it, you look really handsome when you're serious." ”

"Then are we going to pay homage to Ruan?" Yang Tassel accepted the praise with peace of mind.

Wait, it's like I'm not usually handsome.