Chapter 461: Qing Dynasty Su Cai
Su cuisine is composed of Jinling cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine, Suxi cuisine, and Xu Hai cuisine. Pen, Fun, Pavilion www.biquge.info its taste is fresh, salty and slightly sweet, pay attention to the original taste, and enjoy a good reputation at home and abroad.
Jiangsu is the land of fish and rice, with abundant products and rich dietary resources. Famous aquatic products include the Yangtze River three fresh (sturgeon, saury, mackerel), Taihu Lake whitebait, Yangcheng Lake clear water hairy crab, Nanjing Longchi crucian carp and many other seafood products. Excellent vegetables include Taihu Ulva cabbage, Huai'an pu cabbage, Baoying lotus, chestnut, chicken head rice, coconut white, winter bamboo shoots, water chestnuts and so on. Famous and special products include Nanjing Lake cooked duck, Nantong wolf chicken, Yangzhou goose, Gaoyou hemp duck, Nanjing fragrant belly, Rugao ham, Jingjiang preserved meat, Wuxi oil gluten and so on.
The characteristics of Jiangsu cuisine are: a wide range of materials, mainly fresh from rivers, lakes and seawater; The knife work is fine, the cooking methods are diverse, and he is good at stewing and simmering; The pursuit of the original taste, fresh and peaceful; The style of the dishes is elegant, and the shape and quality are beautiful.
Famous dishes include: clear soup fire recipe, duck wrapped shark's fin, crystal trotters, squirrel osmanthus fish, watermelon chicken, salted duck, stewed soft-shelled turtle, boiled dried shredded chicken sauce, etc.
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Jiangsu is a place where celebrity chefs gather. The first professional chef in our country and the first city named after a chef are both here. Peng Zu made pheasant soup for Di Yao to eat, and was named the Great Peng Kingdom, which is today's Xuzhou, so it was named Peng Keng, also known as Peng Zu. In the Xia Yu era, "Huaiyi Tribute Fish", Huai White Fish until the Ming and Qing Dynasties were tribute. "Those who are beautiful in the cuisine have the essence of the district", the Taihu Lake vegetables and leeks in the Shangtang period have been elegant. As early as more than 2,000 years ago, the Wu people were good at making roasted fish, steamed fish and fish fillets. In the Spring and Autumn Period, Yi Ya of Qi was passed on in Xuzhou, and the "Fish Belly Tibetan Mutton" created by him has been passed down through the ages, which is the foundation of the word "fresh". Specializing in the stabbing of King Wu, he learned "whole fish moxibustion" from Yamato Public School in Taihu Lake, one of which is now the "squirrel mandarin fish" in Suzhou Songhe Tower. Liu An, the king of Huainan in the Han Dynasty, invented tofu on Bagong Mountain, which was first spread in the Jiangsu and Anhui regions. Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty chased the people to the seashore and found that the fishermen loved the "fish intestines" tasted very beautiful, and the Ming Emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty was also fond of this food. In fact, the "fish intestine" is the white ovary of the squid fish. When the famous doctor Hua Tuo was practicing medicine in Jiangsu, he and his Jiangsu disciple Wu Jin both advocated "cremation" of cooked food, that is, food therapy.
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Emperor Wu of Liang Xiao Yan believed in Buddhism and advocated vegetarianism and gluten as a dish. Ge Hong of the Jin Dynasty has the saying of "Wuzhi", which has a great impact on edible fungi in Jiangsu. During the Southern Song Dynasty, Su cuisine and Zhejiang cuisine were the two pillars of "Southern Food", and Wu monk Zanning made "Bamboo Shoot Spectrum" to summarize the experience of eating bamboo shoots. Tofu, gluten, bamboo shoots, and mushrooms are known as the "four King Kongs" of vegetarian dishes. The origins of these delicacies are all related to Jiangsu. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Nanjing's "Heavenly Kitchen" could use a melon to make dozens of dishes, and one dish could make dozens of flavors. In addition, pickled salted eggs and cucumbers made in sauce have been recorded in the classics since 1,500 years ago. A large number of wild vegetables are eaten, Jiangsu people have the name of "eating grass", Gaoyou Wangpan has a monograph, and Wu Chengen also reflects it in "Journey to the West". Manchu and Mongolian dishes have been added to Jiangnan cuisine, and there is a "Manchu and Han full feast". In the drink, the fragrance is emerging. In "Dream of Red Mansions", Baoyu eats the Muxi fragrance dew, and Dong Xiaowan handmakes rose fragrance; The fragrant dew sold in the Tiger Hill Pond is a delicacy that nourishes the mind and nourishes the body at that time, and can make people's teeth and cheeks fragrant. In addition to the restaurant, there are a large number of teahouses, and the tea style has become more prosperous since Qianlong. After 1840, Western food appeared in the treaty ports, and there were restaurants that combined Chinese and Western cuisine.
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According to the Hangzhou Xu Ke's compilation of "Qing Barnyard Banknotes", it is recorded that "the dishes have their own characteristics, such as Beijing, Shandong, Sichuan, Guangdong, Fujian, Jiangning, Suzhou, Zhenjiang, Yangzhou, Huai'an. "Half of the ten famous cities are in Jiangsu. Su cuisine is composed of three local dishes: Huaiyang, Suxi and Xuhai, with Huaiyang cuisine as the main body. Huaiyang is located in central Jiangsu, east to Haiqitong Taiyanfu, west to Jinling Liuhe, south and Jingkou Jintan, north to Lianghuai. Huaiyang cuisine is characterized by rigorous selection of materials, attention to knife and firework, emphasis on the original taste, highlighting the main ingredients, light and elegant tones, and shape
Novel, moderate salty and sweet, peaceful taste, so it is suitable for a wide range of applications. In terms of cooking skills, the methods of stewing, stewing, simmering and cooking are mostly used. Among them, Nanjing cuisine is famous for cooking duck dishes, and Zhen and Yang cuisine are good at cooking chicken dishes and Jiang Xian; Its fine pastries are won by fermented pastries, hot pastries, and puff pastry pastries.
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Su cuisine is good at stewing, stewing, steaming, stir-frying, attaching importance to adjusting the soup, keeping the original juice, the flavor is fresh, thick but not greasy, light but not thin, crispy and loose without losing its shape, smooth and crisp without losing its taste. Nanjing cuisine has a mellow taste, exquisite and delicate; Yangzhou cuisine is light and palatable, and the knife work is fine; Suzhou cuisine tends to be sweet, elegant and colorful. The world's famous city is known as "Yangyi Yiyi" (Yizhou is today's Sichuan), and the thriving market has promoted the development of Suzhou cuisine cooking skills. Sui and Tang Songjiang's "golden jade and jade", sugar ginger honey crab; Suzhou's delicate peony and Yangzhou's wisps are all exquisite fancy dishes. The staple food and dim sum of Su cuisine were known as the "Seven Wonders of Health" in the five dynasties. Its rice grains are distinct, soft but not rotten, and can wipe the table; The noodles are tough and can be worn into bands and continuously; The cake is thin and transparent, and can reflect the characters; Wonton soup is clear, can be injected with inkstone and grinding ink; The steamed dumplings are fragrant and crispy, and "chewing alarms people for ten miles", which shows the subtlety of the skills.
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Since the Song Dynasty, the taste of Su cuisine has changed greatly. It turns out that the southern vegetables are salty and the northern vegetables are sweet, and the fish and crabs from the south of the Yangtze River to Chang'an and Luoyang should be sweetened and honeyed. The Song dynasty crossed to Hangzhou in the south, and a large number of scholars and doctors from the Central Plains went south, bringing the influence of the flavor of the Central Plains. Su and Xi's sweetness today is indiscriminate. In addition, during the Tang and Song dynasties, especially since the Jin and Yuan dynasties, there were more and more Muslims coming to Jiangsu, and Suzhou cuisine was influenced by halal cuisine, and the cooking was more colorful. Since the Ming and Qing dynasties, Su cuisine has been influenced by many local flavors. In the past, Wu Wangfu and Emperor Yang of Sui traveled to feast and drink, and the emperor who enjoyed the dragon boat enjoyed the boat and ordered the boat dishes, which was also available for ordinary people to taste as a means of making profits for merchants at this time.
In the Qing Dynasty, Su cuisine was popular throughout the country, which is equivalent to the status of Sichuan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine. Huaiyang cuisine, one of the Su cuisines, was once a palace cuisine, and most of the dishes in the state banquet in 2013 were still Huaiyang cuisine. Therefore, Huaiyang cuisine is also known as the national dish. Suzhou cuisine has also been very popular in history. When Emperor Qianlong toured the south, he once went to Deyue Tower in Suzhou as a guest, and after tasting the delicious food in the south of the Yangtze River, he was very happy, and called Suzhou the first restaurant in the world. The special snacks in Suzhou cuisine include jujube paste pulled cake, small square cake, three fresh wontons, wine-stuffed balls, tofu flowers, boat points, green dumplings, eight treasure rice and so on. Nanjing cuisine tastes mellow, delicate and delicate, more than 1,000 years ago, duck has been Jinling cuisine; Yangzhou cuisine is light and palatable, and the knife work is fine; Suzhou cuisine tends to be sweet, elegant and colorful.