Chapter 470: Hunan Cuisine
Because Hunan is located in the transition zone between the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau in the southwest and the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River in the northeast, and it is in the place where the warm and humid airflow of the Bay of Bengal and the warm and humid airflow of the Pacific Ocean compete, the annual precipitation is as much as 1300~1800 mm, the rivers and lakes are dense, the water network is continuous and horizontal, and the four underwater floods of Hunan, Zi, Yuan and Li are supported by the Yangtze River and Dongting Lake to form waterlogging, or a long drought without rain, or a rain disaster, the temperature difference is large, the humidity is high, or the heat is unbearable, or the cold is pressing. People are often immersed in cold and heat, and are prone to dampness and depression. Pen × fun × Pavilion www. biquge。 info Changsha Taifu Jia Yi said: "Changsha is a humble and wet land, which is not conducive to longevity. "In this land, on the one hand, it is suitable for the growth and reproduction of subtropical plants, and the yield and quality of peppers are very impressive; On the other hand, the excellent growth of chili pepper to dispel cold and dampness and open depression shows its skills here, like a hero who can be useful. Chili peppers are especially suitable for consumption in Hunan. Generally speaking, people from other provinces can accept the spicy flavor and texture of Hunan cuisine for more than half a month, and there are no obvious adverse reactions. Some people from Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Fujian, Guangdong and even the three northeastern provinces who have worked in Hunan for many years have the same level of spicy taste as the local Hunan people. Taiwanese philosopher Mr. Zhang Qijun also talked about this in "Principles of Cooking", saying that he did not eat chili peppers before: "Don't say that you don't eat chili peppers, put a little chili pepper in the dish, and you dare not eat the whole dish." The Anti-Japanese War arose, and when I arrived in Hunan, I saw that the dishes made by Hunan people with chili peppers were so fragrant. Try it, the more you taste, the braver you become, and in less than half a year, you can eat chili peppers like Hunan people. On the contrary, after Hunan people go out of Hunan Province, such as entering Beijing or going south to Guangdong, Hainan and Shenzhen, their desire to eat spicy food is greatly reduced, their ability to resist spicy food is gradually degraded, and even abnormal reactions such as cleft lip and sores occur due to spicy food. This proves the distinct and strong regional characteristics of spicy food from both positive and negative aspects.
……
The second layer is the economic and circulation reasons. The landform of Hunan is composed of "seven mountains, two rivers and one field", which is located in a remote area, the land is barren, far away from the southeast coast, and the disadvantages of topography, location and transportation make the ancient Hunan economy relatively closed and backward, and it is at the edge of politics, economy and culture. Emperor Shun toured south and collapsed in the wilderness of Cangwu (now Yongzhou City), which was the boundary of the Central Plains sphere of influence. Yelang Country (now Huaihua, Xiangxi) was the place where prisoners were exiled. The Tang Dynasty poet Li Bai has a poem: "I send my sorrow and the bright moon, and follow you until the night is long." The ancient Furong Building in Qianyang, Hunan Province today is to commemorate this famous "western poet" at that time.
……
These areas are still economically underdeveloped, and are concentrated in the main impoverished counties of Hunan Province. The inconvenience of transportation causes poor circulation, and sea salt has always been expensive here. Even in the eventful years of the revolutionary struggle in Jinggangshan in modern times, salt was still very rare in the mountainous areas of Hunan and Jiangxi, and chili peppers had the function of stimulating taste and disinfection, and happened to be a substitute for table salt. Second, it is difficult for seasonal vegetables outside the province to enter the local area. The purchasing power of rural people is low, the chili pepper is delicious and cheap, and to some extent it replaces the edible and even medicinal value of salt, it is the first choice for "sending rice", from this point of view, a big bowl of cabbage is not worth a small spoon of chili, chili pepper is the oil of the poor, so it has become the most affordable and practical vegetable for farmers. Farmers in Baoqing (now Shaoyang City) in Xiangzhong have a load of dried chili peppers for the New Year, which shows that its consumption is huge. Farmers in the area of Yongyong Daxu Town, Jiangyong, even directly use dried chili peppers for rice. According to the survey of the rural survey team of the Hunan Provincial Bureau of Statistics, in 1999, the province's pepper sowing area was 1.15 million hectares, with an annual output of more than 300,000 tons, and more than 300,000 tons of peppers were imported from Hainan and other places that year. Today, due to the economic development, the overall spicy food in the province has decreased, and the obvious difference between the spicy food degree of developed cities and remote rural residents continues to prove the relationship between the amount of chili consumption, especially the level of spicy food, and the local economy.
……
The third layer is the spiritual and cultural reasons. "If Hunan changes, China changes; If I survive, China will survive. "If the Chinese nation is destroyed, unless the people of Hunan die." The sense of mission of Hunan people with lofty ideals to take the world as their own responsibility is extremely prominent among all provinces in China. The two large-scale migrations in the early Ming and early Qing dynasties had a great impact on the character and folk customs of the Hunan people. The two large-scale migrations were due to the sharp decline in the population caused by the war, and a large number of people from other places moved into Hunan. Therefore, Wu Xinfu and others believe in the "General History of Hunan" that the pioneering and enterprising spirit of the new immigrants and the integration of ethnic minorities such as the Han and Miao ethnic minorities have gradually formed the temperament of resisting and persevering, daring to act, enduring and working hard, and being brave and strong, and are often called "mules" and "barbarians". This kind of humanistic characteristics are in common with the spiritual essence of chili peppers, so chili peppers and "spicy people" hit it off. It is not surprising that Hunan people use the momentum of chili peppers to lyrical, expressive, and ambitious, and develop from a general picy to a large-scale cultivation and production of spicy peppers.
……
The Hunan cuisine was founded by the celebrity Tan Yanmin and his family chef from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China in Hunan. With the gastronomic concept of "excellent selection of raw materials, fine knife processing, exquisite cooking skills, and precise taste harmony", Gu'an Hunan cuisine has won people's favor and is known as the "source of Hunan cuisine".
……
The main famous dishes of Hunan cuisine are "Dong'anzi Chicken", "Red Simmered Shark's Fin", "Steamed Pork Meat", "Whole Duck with Bread", "Spicy Winter Bamboo Shoots", "Chestnut Roasted Choi Heart", "Wuyuan Fairy Chicken", "Jishou Sour Pork" and so on. Among them, "red simmered shark fin", also known as "group shark fin", is a famous local dish in Hunan. The cooking method is to use shark fin with chicken broth, soy sauce, etc., simmered over low heat, the juice is thick and delicious, and it is famous for its freshness and glutinousness. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Jinshi Tan Gu'an liked to eat this dish very much, and his home chef improved the preparation method of yellow simmered shark fin, and added chicken, pork belly and shark fin to simmer together, so that shark fin is more soft and glutinous and smooth, and the soup is more mellow and delicious. Tan Jinshi was praised for his food, and since then he has been famous all over the world. Therefore, the dish was created by Tan Yanmin and his home chef, so it is called "Ku'an shark's fin".
……
Kumian shark fin, also known as red simmered shark fin, is a traditional famous dish in Hunan. Kumian shark fin is made of exquisite materials and is uniquely made. It is necessary to select the spine wings and remove the coarse essence; In addition, use a hen, a pig's elbow, shrimp, scallops, mushrooms and other condiments for later use. Bring the hen and pork knuckle to a boil over medium heat at the same time, and simmer over low heat to get the soup. After the shark fin is swollen and steamed, it is steamed with animal soup, and then simmered with shrimp, dried scallops, mushrooms and other condiments, this dish has a mellow taste, shark fin is glutinous and soft, nutritious, and it is really a treasure in the dish. Before liberation, Quyuan Restaurant operated this dish, which was appreciated by diners.