Chapter 465: Stir-frying, stewing, steaming, and burning
Ningbo's pickled vegetable soup yellow croaker, moss small square grilled, rock sugar soft-shelled turtle, pot roasted eel, Huzhou's old shrimp, colorful eel, Jiaxing's fried crab powder, fried shrimp and crab, etc., all have a history of hundreds of years. Pen, fun, pavilion www. biquge。 infoWenzhou is close to Fujian, influenced by Fujian cuisine, the cooking is light, mainly seafood, such as three silk fish rolls, three slices of cracked shrimp and other dishes also have a long history.
Hangzhou cuisine first launched new dishes such as Longjing shrimp. However, the Zhejiang cuisine, which is dominated by Hangzhou cuisine, is basically divided into three major factions, one is the "Beijing Bang" restaurant that cooks the northern flavor, that is, the big gang dishes that are unanimously valued by the culinary circles, and mainly cooks high-end raw materials, such as shark fin, sea cucumber, bird's nest, bear's paw, roast suckling pig, hanging oven duck (Beijing roast duck), which is the strongest in Hangzhou. The other faction is the Hui Gang with braised braised as the specialty, mainly distributed in Hangzhou, Lake (Wuxing), Ningbo and other places, and the dishes are mainly flavorful, heavy oil, heavy thickening, heavy color, and economical. The other group is the local lai, a true indigenous cuisine. Hangzhou's larger scale has the West Lake Louwailou, which was opened in the Qing Daoguang period, and is famous for West Lake vinegar fish and Longjing shrimp. There is Wang Runxing of Qinghefang in the city, known as "Huang Faner". Fish head tofu, known as wooden nut tofu, pieces of meat, pickled bamboo shoots. There is an orchid restaurant in Shaoxing, with standard Shaoxing dishes such as shrimp balls and steamed vinegar fish. There is Dongfu Garden in Ningbo, eastern Zhejiang, and famous dishes such as yellow croaker in pickle soup and rock sugar soft-shelled turtle are authentic local traditional dishes in Ningbo.
Zhejiang cuisine has its own unique cooking methods. In addition to people's regional taste preferences, rich specialties are also one of the factors.
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Song sister-in-law fish soup is boiled with mandarin fish in water, and after the fish is removed from the bones, the fish meat is put back into the original soup and added a little soy sauce, sugar and more vinegar, without adding oil to the production process, creating a similar "West Lake vinegar fish". The West Lake vinegar fish is simple to make, the fish is slaughtered, processed by knife work, boiled and fished out and seasoned, but the technical standards are very high. This cooking method is unique among the country's famous dishes. Shaoxing's famous dish of white fish button chicken also has a similar situation, put the chicken and white fish (salty dried yellow croaker) in the same bowl, without adding oil, after steaming, its flavor is fragrant and flavorful. Ningbo is rich in yellow croaker, and the yellow croaker is boiled with pickles to make a large yellow croaker soup with thick flavor and fresh taste. In the past, Jiaxing was rich in hairy crabs, except for snack bar stalls, restaurants do not sell whole lake crabs, but have always used crab roe (i.e. the meat of lake crabs) to cook dishes. Wenzhou, an important town in southern Zhejiang, pays attention to the soup, "three pieces of knock shrimp" and "three silk knock fish" all use high-grade hanging soup. In addition, Hangzhou's mud-grilled dishes such as "Huatong Chicken" and "Longjing Shrimp" with tea vegetables as ingredients are all unique cooking techniques.
Zhejiang cuisine, like the major cuisines in the country, has developed rapidly. Zhejiang Province has also set up various schools and culinary research institutes dedicated to cultivating culinary talents, extensively exchanged culinary cultures, and further improved the equipment and conditions of the catering industry.
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Zhejiang cuisine still plays a leading role in traditional cuisine. At the end of the 80s, some traditional dishes were no longer popular. Instead, there are "soft-shelled turtles, river eels" to the current Jiwei shrimp, scallops, blue crabs, cream crabs, fresh red shellfish, abalone, small sand fish and so on. The most important thing is that the outlets of catering services are growing year by year, especially the development of the private economy, which is fierce. By the end of 1992, the number of private restaurants in Hangzhou had soared to more than 4,000. In terms of the variety of varieties and cooking, the practice of private individuals is basically "killing and cooking alive", and the taste is left to the needs of the eaters, which forces the large state-run stores to follow suit. Under the influence of the "south wind", some varieties of Hangzhou cuisine have been replaced by shrimp and scallops. Some traditional dishes are innovative, and Shao cuisine still dominates. Ningbo has given full play to the advantages of relying on seafood, and Wenzhou cuisine has developed many famous dishes with seafood as raw materials.
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Based on the above four schools, Zhejiang cuisine has obvious characteristics and styles as a whole, and has four common characteristics: exquisite selection of materials, unique cooking, attention to original taste, and fine production.
Raw materials pay attention to varieties and seasons, in order to fully reflect the tender and crisp texture of raw materials, the use of seafood, fruits and vegetables, all to the season, the use of poultry, livestock, are to specialty, fully embodies the Zhejiang cuisine selection of fresh and fresh materials, pay attention to the parts of the materials, follow the "four times of the order" principle of material selection.
Fine: that is, fine, pay attention to the selection of raw materials and essence, in order to maintain the elegance of the dishes;
Special: that is, specialty. Pay attention to the selection of local seasonal specialties to highlight the local characteristics of the dishes;
Fresh: that is, fresh, pay attention to the selection of fresh vegetables and fruits and fresh seafood and river freshness and other raw materials to ensure the pure taste of the dishes;
Tender: that is, tender, pay attention to the selection of new and tender raw materials to ensure the freshness and crispness of the dishes.
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Zhejiang cuisine is famous at home and abroad for its rich and colorful cooking techniques, among which it is good at 6 categories: stir-frying, frying, stewing, boiling, steaming and burning. "The method of cooking, the heaviest heat", there are more than 30 types of cooking methods commonly used in Zhejiang cuisine, depending on the material, pay attention to the coordination of the main ingredients, and the taste is full of changes. Each of the six techniques he excels at has its own merits:
Stir-fried, known for its slippery stir-frying, requires the speed to become a dish quickly, the quality is smooth and tender, thin and lightly oily, refreshing and delicious without greasy;
Fried, the dishes are loose on the outside and tender on the inside, striving to be tender and mellow, the heat is just right, and they are good at wrapping and fried;
Stew, stewed by the technique of the dish, the soup won the wish of the tender, the soup is thick and mellow;
The dishes made by the slippery and slippery techniques pay attention to the heat, pay attention to the ingredients, and the main ingredients need to be fresh and tender products, highlighting the delicious and innocent taste of the raw materials;
Steaming, pay attention to ingredients and cooking heat, the main ingredients are made fresh and beautiful;
The dishes cooked by the technique of roasting and burning are also known for their fire work, and the raw materials are required to be stewed crispy and flavorful, and the fragrance is delicious.
In addition, Zhejiang's famous chefs cook seafood river with their own uniqueness, which adapts to the eating habits of the people in the south of the Yangtze River, who like to eat light and tender. When cooking fish, mostly to water treatment procedures, about two-thirds of the fish dishes are cooked in water heat transfer medium, highlighting the characteristics of the fresh and tender taste of the fish, the traditional dish should be the first to recommend Hangzhou's West Lake vinegar fish, the live fish is killed, cooked by boiling water, soft and boiled, without adding any oily, smooth and delicious, the public mouth praises.
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The taste pays attention to freshness, crispness and tenderness, and maintains the original color and true taste of the raw materials. Li Yu, a native of Hangzhou, once believed in "The Story of Idle Love" that "the world's good things are good in solitary travel", which means to eat the original taste of high-quality raw materials. However, the development of cooking proves that the so-called outstanding taste of raw materials is not the rational and scientific cooking of raw materials, removing their dross and retaining their essence. To remove its dross, that is, in addition to cooking, it is also necessary to use onions, ginger, garlic, Shao wine, vinegar and other condiments to achieve the effect of removing the fish, smell and fragrance, expelling the bad taste of raw materials, and increasing the fragrance of raw materials.
For example, Zhejiang's famous dish "Dongpo meat" is cooked with Shao wine instead of water, which is mellow and luscious. Due to the abundance of products in Zhejiang, the names of the dishes are mostly supplemented by fresh bamboo shoots, ham, mushrooms, mushrooms and green leafy seasonal vegetables