Chapter 454: Food Culture

Clear soup Shih Tzu tongue - Hao Yixing's "Remembering the Sea Mistakes" said: "The tongue is called a protruding piece of meat, just like a human tongue, and it is soft and crisp, and it is cherished." Pen @ fun @ pavilion wWw. biqUgE怂 info Its shell is round and thick, lilac, and can be decorated with fixtures. There is it in the sea of ink. Wang Peixun's "Memories of the Old Records of the Country Garden" volume 8 once described the treasures of the Jiaodong Sea, which has a cloud: "The first sea is more beautiful than the tongue of Xi Shi." Clams and the like are counted in tens, and this is the crown. Liang Zhangju's "Wandering Tracks" Volume 2 commented on Wenzhou seafood: "Xi Shi's tongue is available at any time, and it is ,...... (Wenzhou) Xi Shi tongue is not as good as Deng, Lai, Qing provinces. The Qing Dynasty poet Zheng Banqiao wrote in "Weixian Bamboo Branches" that "the big fish is bought and sent to the east of wealth, the huge mouth of silver scales is empty, and the cities come to be delicious, and the tongue of Xi Shi enters the jade plate." Zheng Banqiao said that the seafood of "Shih Tzu tongue" was eaten by wealthy families. In the 30s of the 20th century, the famous writer Mr. Liang Shiqiu tasted Xi Shi tongue for the first time in Qingdao Shunxing Building: "A bowl of clear soup, floating with a layer of sharp white things, I don't know what it is, the owner said Xi Shi tongue, there is a smooth and soft feeling in the mouth, and it really lives up to its reputation after trying." ā€

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The silver silk bream - the poem of Wang Shizhen, a famous scholar in the early Qing Dynasty, "The silver silk bream": "The gold plate is scattered and the snowflakes are flying, the thin silver filaments are subtle, and the fragrance is full of incense, and the mackerel of the Yu family is still rare." "Praise the finesse of the silver silk bream in Lixia (that is, Jinan, Shandong).

Geng cake - also known as Caozhou mirror persimmon, is the traditional famous spot in Heze, Shandong, in the Ming Dynasty Yongle years has been as a tribute to the imperial court, Yongle Emperor greatly appreciated, given the name "Geng cake", the Qing Dynasty Wang Shizhen has a poem to praise and say: "Bodu (Cao County) persimmon wins purple plum, jade snow contains tiger fetus. Lung disease is still longing, Yao Huang Oubi is different. ā€

Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty chased the people to the seashore, and saw that the locals were eating a thing full of aroma, so he ordered this food to be "鱁鮧", which is an ancient food, that is, fish intestine sauce. The earliest Northern Wei Dynasty's "Qi Min Yaoshu" volume 8 has "the method of making a sting". "Compendium of Materia Medica: Scales IV" also has an explanation of "鱁鮧", and Li Shizhen collected the explanation: "Shen Kuo's "Pen Talk" cloud '鱁鮧, cuttlefish intestines also'".

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Mullet egg soup - in the Qing Dynasty Zhao Zimin's "Compendium of Materia Medica", there is a record of mullet eggs "producing Denglai, which is the egg in the belly of the squid". The Qing poet Wang Shilu wrote in the poem "Four Songs of Remembering Caizi": "Full rice and fish balls, clear the bottle and order crabs, and the Boren shovel the fish, this matter will be pitiful." Wang Shilu listed the mullet eggs with crab and anchovy, indicating that the mullet eggs had been listed as treasures at that time. The Qing Dynasty poet and gourmand Yuan Mei recorded this dish in his "Suiyuan Food List". This dish has the reputation of "the first soup of Shandong cuisine".

Shandong pancakes - the Qing Dynasty literati Yuan Mei praised Shandong pancakes in "Suiyuan Food List": "Shandong Confucian Tai's home-made pancakes are as thin as cicada wings, as big as a tea tray, and extremely soft." And said that at that time, someone said: "Eat Kong Fangbo's pancakes, and the pancakes in the world can be wasted." ā€

Jiaji fish (representative dishes steamed Jiaji fish, vinegar pepper Jiaji fish, braised Jiaji fish, stewed Jiaji fish, etc.) - Qing Dynasty scholar Hao Yixing recorded in "Remembering the Sea Mistakes": "There are fish in the Denglai Sea, the body is fruitful, the scales are bun, the tail is red, the bite is fat, and its skull and eyes are fat, and it has a good taste. ā€

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Shrimp (on behalf of rookie bird prawns, Luohan prawns, emerald green shrimp balls, vinegar-cooked prawns, braised prawns, flower prawns, Ruyi prawns, goldfish prawns, garlic open side prawns, etc.) - Hao Yixing's book "Remembering Sea Mistakes" contains, Bohai Sea "There are shrimp in the sea, long feet, as big as a child's arm, fishermen's nets, two by two, dried or pickled, the goods are called shrimp." "The shrimp produced in Shandong waters accounts for 2/3 of the country's total output.

Fried lotus - the "Meal Recipe" section of Gu Zhong's "Raising Xiaolu" of the Qing Dynasty has at the beginning: "All flowers and seedlings, leaves, roots, wild vegetables, and herbs are very good." Clean...... Preparation must be obtained, or boiled or cooked, burned, pickled, fried". In "Eating Lotus", Lao She also described the scene of eating fried lotus flowers when he was teaching in Jinan.

Sea cucumber - Wu Weiye once pointed out in the early Qing Dynasty: "Sea cucumber is produced in the sea." He also wrote a poem chanting Denglai sea cucumber: "Prepare the soup to wash, and then enter the dingdang." It is forbidden to be wide in the North Sea, and the food can be cooked in the south. I can't distinguish the insect and fish family, and I don't know the name of the grass and trees. But the taste will be supplemented, do not medicine for the rest of your life. Hao Yixing's "Remembering the Sea Mistakes" recorded: "There are things in the Denglai Sea today, which are long and long, light yellow, pure bones without bones, chaotic and mouthless, and have stomachs and intestines,...... It is called sea cucumber". Yuan Mei's "Suiyuan Food List" said the difficulty of making sea cucumbers: "Sea cucumbers have nothing to do, the sand is fishy, the most difficult to please, but the nature is strong, and you can't simmer in clear soup", Ding Yizeng, a scholar in Rizhao in Shandong in the Qing Dynasty, wrote "Farm Notes" and said: "To make sea cucumbers, first soak them in water, grind off the rough skin, wash and cut them, remove the intestines, cut into strips, boil them in salt water, and then add thick broth, put them in a bowl, and they are very thorough through the water, and they are listened to and used." "This kind of hair preparation method of first water hair and then reheating with broth is very popular in Shandong.

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Jia Siyi's "Qi Min Yaoshu" of the Northern Wei Dynasty recorded the earliest soup in the history of human cooking: "Pound the beef and mutton bones, make them crushed, cook them to extract the juice, sweep away the foam, and stop them to make them clear." "The tradition of Shandong cuisine being good at making and using broth continues to this day. The broth (old hen, duck, bones, lean meat, elbows, pork belly, etc. are washed and watered for a long time, then washed, boiled for a long time, and skimmed off the foam) is divided into milk soup and clear soup, the clear soup is crystal clear, and the milk soup is milky white and smooth. A large number of hot dishes in Lu cuisine are extremely dependent on broth. "No soup is not a dish", before the liberation, Shandong restaurants will be closed because the soup stock is used up, although the main ingredients are available, the guests still want to eat, but in order to be fresh and delicious to do home, do not damage the reputation of the store, resolutely do not do not use the soup of the dishes. In addition, methods such as sea intestine noodles, shrimp roe, crab roe, shrimp paste, fried flour, stewed mushrooms and bamboo shoots are also commonly used umami agents in traditional Lu cuisine.

A hot and sour sea cucumber soup, or mullet egg soup, is particular about the seasoning, and the diner must taste three bites to eat the essence of the whole dish (that is, the so-called "intriguing", the taste must have a process of finding and experiencing in the mouth of the diner), if the first bite can taste the soup is very flavorful, it is a failed practice. The first bite is salty and fresh, slightly sour and slightly spicy; In the second bite, the sour and spicy taste is sublimated; In the third bite, the four flavors of sour, spicy, salty and fresh are parallel to the mouth, which requires all kinds of seasonings to be just right, which is a great test of the chef's skills. A nine-turn large intestine combines the five flavors of sweet, sour, bitter, spicy and salty into one dish, this dish should allow diners to taste the layers, each flavor can be clearly and distinctly presented in chronological order, presenting a taste in one second, and finally layered layer by layer, which is wonderful.