Chapter 59: Cutting and Sewing

The cutting of clothes, because of the limitation of fabric, Mo Lan can only do the simplest processing, but this is also much more practical than animal skin clothing, and the saved animal skin and cloth can also make some small parts, such as hats, socks, uppers, gloves and so on.

Mo Lan called the women of the clan to a relatively spacious barn hole, let people light a bonfire to keep warm, and then found a flat stone slab as a slab to teach everyone to cut clothes.

"To cut clothes, we must first understand the structure and use of clothes, we have limited materials, here I will only teach you a simpler way to cut, and when we have better conditions in the future, I will give you a more complex way to cut clothes."

Mo Lan stacked needle willow cloth and animal skins, fur and other clothing on the stone slab, took a piece of needle willow cloth and began to cut, and while cutting, he explained in detail to everyone.

"The clothes of our Yan Clan are different from the animal skin clothes of the Han Wolf Clan, which are divided into upper and lower clothes. The advantage of separating the upper and lower clothes is that it is warmer and more convenient. The top is divided into an undergarment and an outerwear, and the undergarment can be made into pants or a skirt. ”

"For the men of the tribe, wearing pants under the shirt is more conducive to their outdoor activities, which can increase the flexibility of hunting and labor. It doesn't matter to the women, because the amount of activity is small, pants and skirts are fine. ”

"The top is a little more complicated and is made up of the front panel, the back panel and the sleeves. The front and back panels must be sewn together with the sleeves to make a complete top. The jacket can be made of placket, oblique placket, collar can be made of round neck, cross-collar, stand collar, and the cuffs can be made of large sleeves and scattered sleeves. If you wear it for a man with sleeves, you can make a wrist brace so as not to be cumbersome. ”

"It's the same with trousers, you have to have a belt at the waist and leggings at the hem. Women can make wide-legged pants or skirts. However, this Kumo Snow Field is too cold, so it is better to make pants to keep warm, and the top and bottom are tightened and impermeable, which will be much warmer than animal skin clothing. ”

"Also, because the needle willow cloth is relatively thin, a single layer is not enough to keep out the cold, so we have to sew together animal skins and fur and needle willow cloth to make cotton clothes to wear, so that the warmth effect will be doubled. Even in the cold weather, if you go out in such a cotton coat, you will not have to worry about your life. ”

"Okay, now I have a sample of the cut top and pants, and everyone takes turns to look at it, and once you get used to it, I teach you how to sew these pieces of clothing into a finished garment."

Mo Lan handed the pieces of clothes cut with a stone knife in his hand to Amai and Xilu, and asked them to pass them on to the others to watch in detail one by one.

By the time the fabric was passed back to Mo Lan, she had threaded the bone needles with needles and threads, ready to sew the clothes.

The women of the Wolf Clan often use bone needles to sew animal skin clothes, so they are quite familiar with sewing clothes. However, there was no such delicate thread as needle willow thread before, and they used the outer skin of Eury branches or other vines, and they also used yak tendons.

However, the plant skin is not capricious enough, the length is not enough, and the yak tendon is tough enough but the length is enough, but the reserves are not enough. Anyway, it's all about making do, and now that I have needle thread, no matter what I sew in the future, I don't have to worry about running out of thread.

Mo Lan picked up the thread and sewed the jacket one by one, explaining the stitching method to everyone while sewing.

"There are many ways to sew by hand, and I won't talk about the complicated ones. Here, I will only tell you about a few of the most basic and practical stitches. ”

"First, quilting, it is one of the basic needles of the Yan traditional hand needle process, there are long and short quilting needles. The long quilting needle is used for the temporary fixation of two or more pieces of cloth, the thread is not knotted when the needle is started, and the needle is transported from right to left, with a length of about 3 cm. There are also many variations of long quilting needles, such as long on the front and short on the back; The front and back are short, and the middle is long. Short quilting is the basic stitch method used to fix fabrics. The needle method is also from right to left, with a stitch distance of 2 to 4 stitches in lcm. Everybody is optimistic, like this. ”

Mo Lan said, pasting the two pieces of fabric on the front and back of the jacket together, and began to demonstrate the stitching.

Everyone came over curiously, watched carefully, and circled around Mo Lan.

Although these women were uncivilized, their minds were not stupid, and after Mo Lan repeated the demonstration several times, most of them had mastered the needle method of quilting, so Mo Lan went on to explain other needle methods.

"The next thing to talk about is the needle. There are two kinds of needles, one is bright and the other is dark. This stitching method is mostly used to secure the welt of the garment and the inside of the bag. Mingyu is shallow with a straight needle oblique line, and the stitch is oblique, so it is also called an oblique needle. Move the needle from right to left, and it is better to have small and neat stitches on the front. ”

"Dark needle is also known as dark needle. There are no stitches on the front, and there are no stitches on the front and back, and it is also used for the welt of clothing. Come and see, learn from it! ”

Mo Lan said as she encouraged everyone to do more. Everyone watched and learned, but they soon learned to be decent again.

"The third stitch, let's talk about the barbed hook. The barb needle is also called the buckle needle. Move one stitch forward, then one stitch back, and the stitch is slightly slanted. Because this stitching method is relatively strong, it is commonly used when assembling the back seam of pants and installing armholes. ”

"Fourth, triangular needles. Also called dog tooth needle. It is used to fix the cuff edges, bottom edges, and trouser edges of clothes. Move the needle from left to right. The front side does not show stitches, and the reverse stitches are crossed. ”

"The fifth, seam pins. It is a common stitch method to modify the burr of the fabric and prevent looseness, and it can also be used for patching. Repeat to the desired length, first horizontally and then vertically, with the sutures passed under the vertical needle. There are many changes to the seam pin, and I will hand it over to you one by one later. ”

After Mo Lan explained the basic stitching, put down the fabric and needlework in his hand, clapped his hands and said: "Okay, give you fifteen minutes, now everyone is divided into groups and practice stitching separately, and when you are familiar with it, you can officially sew clothes!" ”

When everyone heard this, they were all eager to try. Automatically and spontaneously find familiar partners to start communicating and learning.

Mo Lan saw that everyone was serious about learning, and none of them felt impatient with tediousness, and nodded with satisfaction. Then pick up the cut fabric and start making your first handmade garment.

Of course, this detailed knowledge is not in her head, but Xiaoxiao uses special techniques to make a lesson plan in her mind, and then she teaches according to the lesson plan.

However, this is also a skill that she finally mastered after staying up for half a night last night, and it would be a half-baked thing to put it on hold in modern times, but it is more than enough to teach these unenlightened wild tribesmen!

Fortunately, thanks to a small help, otherwise I am afraid that it will be really difficult to survive in this Kumo Snow Plain, where there is nothing.

The material here is too scarce, and when there are conditions in the future, she must discuss with Han Che about relocating the tribe.

Even in the modern era of extremely developed civilization, there are still many harsh conditions that human beings cannot overcome, not to mention these wild tribes.

It would be great if you could move to the plains. However, the meal must be eaten one bite at a time, and the road must be taken step by step. Although the area outside the desert snow field is vast, it is not so easy to migrate with a large number of clansmen. If you are not fully prepared, you will lose the lives of many people.

Now they can't even meet the needs of food and clothing, where is the condition to migrate? We'll have to take our time.

The handmade clothing was finally made with the unremitting efforts of Mo Lan. Because it is sewn in three layers of animal fur and needle willow cloth, it is particularly thick and warm. The inner layer of needle willow cloth is soft and snug, which is much more comfortable than fur.

Ah Mai, who was fortunate enough to try it on, touched the clothes up and down, and her excited little face flushed, and Mo Lan finally breathed a sigh of relief when she saw this.

OK! The padded clothes are done!