Chapter 32: The Kham Man I Know
Out of the mouth of the tunnel, there is a large flat land, and on the left is a viewing area of several hundred square meters, and many drivers stop to smoke and watch the scenery. On the right is the mountain, there is a drainage ditch several meters wide between the road and the mountain, and a few trucks are parked on the side, all of which are dump trucks pulling cement.
Several drivers were talking around the driver who caused the accident, and the driver was constantly talking on the phone and getting emotional. Jiang Ming said that we were also smoking a cigarette in the viewing area. Then I saw that there was no car behind me and leaned to the left. Leaving Zhang Shan in the car, he went down to smoke with the fat man.
Jiang Ming walked to the opposite side to see the accident car that overturned on its side. When we passed through Tianquan County, we saw a cement factory between Ya'an and Tianquan, and these cars should have pulled cement there. This Tibetan side truck is very distinctive, and there is a lot of decoration in the cab, which is the kind of colorful tassels. Maybe this is also a kind of Kham culture.
After smoking for a while, Jiang Ming came over with the Kangba man, who had a black face and a mouthful of big white teeth. Jiang Ming said that this is Zhang Hai from Nanyang, Henan Province, who has lived in Danba for 15 years. I'm a little surprised, this black face and messy short hair, and a man in Tibetan clothes with half of his shoulders exposed, is he a Han Chinese?
The fat man said four-eyed, you can give an explanation. Jiang Ming said that he wanted to ask Brother Hai to be a tour guide, he had just lost his job, and when he was out of the tunnel just now, the truck hit the ice floe and the wheels skidded and overturned, and his boss said that the cement money and the money for repairing the car were deducted from his salary. Then he quit and let the boss clean up the mess himself.
On the Sichuan-Tibet line, the braking system of all trucks is cooled with water, and then the water flowing onto the road freezes at sub-zero temperatures, and accidents are prone to without snow chains. However, without water cooling, going up and down the mountain for dozens of kilometers, the braking system is more likely to have accidents. We've seen a truck go downhill with one wheel running out of water, and the whole wheel was burned red. If you don't dare to overtake, you will hang far behind.
I see, I said no problem, we came to Tibet to be black-eyed, and it was naturally good to have a familiar local as a tour guide for us. This Haige, who looks like a Tibetan, checked the vehicle for us and said that the cable tie is very good for anti-slip, and now it has broken a lot of roots, and it needs to be replaced before going down the mountain. The road is full of ice floes.
Then Jiang Ming took out a few bands, and the man pulled out the four-wheel tie and re-tied the new tie. It is said that the use of cable ties for going down the mountain is the point, but it is nothing to go up the mountain. After tying up the wheels, we set off again, and the man sat in the co-pilot and introduced us to the local characteristics.
The man said that he came to Danba County with his relatives at the age of fifteen, took the driver's license at the age of eighteen, and drove a car for more than ten years. It's just that Ya'an hasn't been there a few times. He said that he was a son-in-law and his wife was from the Qiang ethnic group.
I looked at his clothes, and he said that the Qiang and Tibetan are almost the same, and they both wear them half-shouldered. Mainly in the Tibetan border, there is a temperature difference between the four seasons in a day, and it is always inconvenient to take off clothes, so when it is hot, half of the arms are exposed to dissipate heat. A few of us had the same expressions on our faces.
In the past, I saw that Tibetans didn't wear sleeves, but I always couldn't figure it out, but it turned out that the temperature difference was large and the heat was dissipated. Every time he turned, the man said what to pay attention to ahead, and he was quite familiar with this road. I said you are going to drive? The man smiled and said that he could trust his words, no problem.
I said my wife was in the car, she got motion sickness, and she had altitude sickness, so you drive smoothly and can't be like driving a truck. He said he understood. Then I was a little worried at first, he just had a car accident and now he is driving our car again, but after a few minutes, I found that the worry was unnecessary.
The old driver is the old driver, the driving is particularly stable, the brakes are particularly slow, and the start is particularly smooth, this car is a pleasure. Halfway up the mountain, he found a spacious observation deck, and the man parked the car. Let's take a drink and smoke a cigarette, and introduce you to the surrounding attractions.
After getting out of the car, I put on a thick padded jacket for Zhang Shan. She held my hand and didn't let go, I thought her hands were cold, maybe she didn't have a good physique after giving birth. I held her hands in my palms, took a few breaths of hot air, and rubbed them again. She looked at me fixedly, and I looked at her lovely face.
When the man saw it, he said, "You don't have gloves, right?" There is a village at the foot of the mountain, where you can buy gloves at the roadside shop, and you will each prepare two sets later. I thanked the man and got in the car to continue on my way. I asked the man, Brother Hai, the Kangding of the Kangding love song, is it Tibetan?
The man laughed and said that you didn't do an investigation when you went to Danba? Kangding is a county-level city that belongs to the garrison of Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, and a total of 17 counties in Luding County and Danba County are under the jurisdiction of the autonomous prefecture.
The Kham culture you are talking about refers to the Tibetan culture formed by the Tibetan living circles of Yunnan, Sichuan, Qinghai, and Tibet, which of course also includes other ethnic minorities. In terms of language, clothing, religion, folk customs, residential architecture, folk culture and other aspects, it is clearly different from the special folk culture of other Tibetan regional cultures.
Now we have not yet arrived in Luding County, in fact, Ganzi Prefecture is very large, we have just come to the border, Luding and Danba are both the border of Ganzi. I see? I used to think that Luding was from Ya'an, Danba was from Aba Prefecture, and there was such a big Ganzi Prefecture.
I looked back at Jiang Ming, and he said that he also knew it for the first time. I asked Jiang Ming how you knew about so many things here, and he said that it came from his master's memory. Daigo empowerment?
Descending to the small village at the foot of the mountain, there are a few shops on the side of the road, and the man greeted the owner warmly, and then helped us choose gloves and scarves and hats. The man said that when he came to Tibet now, it was very cold in January, almost like winter, so keeping warm was the most important thing. We each picked two sets of gear.
Get in the car and continue walking, the man asked us where to stay, Luding County or Yuanyang Dam. He said that the Mandarin Duck Dam is at the intersection of Danba and Kangding, which is the most convenient way. What did the fat man say about the Mandarin Duck Dam? The man said that there is a secondary school in Yuanyang Dam, which is very large, surrounded by settlements, hotels, markets, restaurants and so on.
The fat man said that there is a secondary school where this bird doesn't? The man laughed and said that there are people studying in that school in the entire Ganzi Prefecture, Aba Prefecture and Tibet, and there are many beautiful girls. Jiang Ming said let's just take a look at the Tibetan girls.
Yuanyang Dam is a small town, we stayed in a small hotel, and after parking the car, the man took us to eat. We walked to the restaurant across the street from the school, and as soon as we entered, the man ordered us butter tea. The proprietress should be a Qiang person, and her clothes seem to be different from those of the Tibetan people, with a brown face in her fifties.
She kept pounding up and down in a one-meter-high wooden tube, and at the same time she was talking to the man, and we couldn't understand a word. After pounding for a while, I poured a bowl of butter tea for each of us, looking very good-looking butter tea, and it was salty when I drank it.
As the name suggests, butter tea is pounded with ghee in a wooden tube, and then pounded with strong tea and salt. Eat it with glutinous rice dumplings. For many southerners, they are not used to eating, but when they come here, they must follow the local customs.
Tibetans don't eat vegetables, they have diarrhea, and their vitamins and chlorophyll are taken from tea leaves. Tibet is cold, so you have to eat a lot of calories. They mainly eat beef and mutton and glutinous rice and butter tea, and their digestive system is used to it, so the diet varies greatly from place to place.
Zhang Shan spit it back after only one sip, pushed it to me, and then turned her head to watch TV. The fat man frowned and drank the butter tea, and then added it. Jiang Ming was more gentle, drank it in small sips, and chewed it slowly with a piece of glutinous rice cake. I'm not picky about what I eat, as long as I can eat enough.
The fat man said, Brother Hai, when will you take us to eat roast whole sheep? The man said that the roasted whole sheep had to be customized, and a sheep was 800 yuan. Is it so expensive? It's a month's salary. Jiang Ming said you can order one for us, and we will eat roast whole sheep in the evening. When the man heard this, he called an acquaintance at the market.
It was just time to get out of school, and many students came out of the secondary school, most of them were wearing casual clothes, only a few students who looked like ethnic minorities, the boys had red faces, and the girls' faces were a lump of plateau red. People who live on the plateau will see congested capillaries on their faces because the oxygen content is only 70-80% in the plains. This is the plateau red.