Shui Shengyuan liked carpentering, but his father let him learn to be a weaver. Shui Shengyuan has been a weaver with his father for more than ten years, and has woven nearly 200 woolen bags. "My father knitted woolen coats in the old society, which was the patent of the landlords, and I could only knit woolen pockets, which were needed by every family."

In the 1980s, Chinese farmers began to use fertilizers heavily. Fertilizers have contributed to increased food production; The plastic bag containing fertilizer directly replaces the woolen bag, "one bag for the world". The loom of the aquatic source was stuffed into the kiln behind the courtyard and was never used again....

"Is this carpenter or weaver?"

On July 14, 2016, my daughter, who was steaming slowly in Dingxi City, suddenly called and said that someone wanted to take pictures of the loom on which she was weaving woolen cloth.

Shui Shengyuan works in a small furniture factory in the western suburbs of Dingxi City. There are only three employees. The workshop production and the workers' living are all in a "new rural" courtyard. Three rooms, two smells plus no swimming, always sleeping people a house is a round room, four square meters of the size of the bed Zhi also happy from the light, proud not to look at the end of the room full of pots. The other quantum is a paint spray room, and the fan of the net wind K in the window has not been able to dissipate the smell of paint in the house even if he tries his best.

Shui Shengyuan greeted the visitors by the side of National Highway 310 and brought them into the furniture factory. "This is where I work, and the end of the key can choke people to death." The task of Shui Shengyuan in the furniture factory is to cut the material, break the entire compression plate as needed, and hand it over to the second process for carving. The furniture he wears is made of simple objects such as the back of the bed, the heating hood, and the decoration ceiling.

In the courtyard, a young man born in the 80s is grinding and carving with sandpaper. Shui Shengyuan asked the young man: "I have to go home, does the boss ask for leave?" You call and ask. The young man spoke with a strong northern Shaanxi accent.

The young man's words gave Shui Shengyuan confidence, and he dialed the boss's phone. The two sides communicated for three minutes and agreed to take a leave of absence. Shui Shengyuan relieved himself to take off his dusty overalls, washed his face covered with sawdust, and slowly changed into a black tunic.

Spray painters noticed movement in the yard. Turn off the big fan and walk out of the paint booth. He took off his gas mask and coughed for a while while leaning against the windowsill.

"This old man won't live this year. Coughing up blood the other day!" Aquatic Source quipped.

"You're packing up like a new bride, what's the good thing?" The old man returned to the source of water and squatted at the mouth of the wide mouth and began to smoke slowly.

"We're going to go to his hometown and take a picture of his loom." The visitor said loudly. The old man stopped smoking and asked suspiciously, "This old carpenter can still weave?" That is, he can weave woolen cloth. ”

When Shui Shengyuan and the guest mountain gate came, the old Hanli youth walked to the door and watched him leave. Out of the gate, the aquatic department said that the painter Lao Han was also a cook for three people at the same time, and the young man and the boss were partners and mechanics in the furniture factory, and all the difficult flowers were completed by him.

Out of Dingxi City, in the direction of Huining County, the soil interception ditch is continuous. After walking the asphalt road, it is connected to the water-shaped road, and after walking the "cement road, you have to take the loess road." The first ditch, and then up the mountain, is the new home of the aquatic community, Xiaowan Village, Xijiaping Town, Anding District.

The village courtyard of the water source is at the highest point of the village, and cars can only drive to the center of the village. I went to his house and I just came to him half a year ago. "Walk through several village alleys. The courtyard gate is locked. The courtyard is a concrete floor, except for the fine dust, but it is also clean, "The loom I have used for 30 years is a bit difficult to assemble!"

Aquatic sources eventually chose a set of heald frames that were less destructive. The restoration was relatively smooth, except for a few small parts that could not be found, and the general structure and important components of the loom were put together in a step-by-step manner. Shui Shengyuan climbs onto the loom and demonstrates the operation.

From the weaving shaft, warp stop, heald frame, heald, heald eye, weaving mouth, all the way to the cloth roller. The weaving process of "opening and closing the warp threads up and down, and shuttling back and forth the weft" can only be restored in the unhurried tone of the aquatic origin.

"The warp thread exits from the spindle, goes around the rear beam, passes through the warp stops, thread eyes and reed teeth to the weaving mouth, where it interweaves with the weft yarn to form the fabric. The fabric wraps around the chest bridge and is wound onto the cloth roller under the drive of the take-up roller. When the warp and weft yarns are intertwined, the heald frame moves up and down respectively, so that the warp yarn in the eye of the thread is divided into two layers to form a shed, and the weft warp weaving knife leads the shed.

When the weft thread is drawn through the warp layer, the weaving knife is pushed firmly against the weaving mouth to make them tightly bonded. In order for the interweaving to continue, the fabrics that have been made are drawn away from the work area, and the warp threads on the weaving shaft are brought into the work area. In general, another old tunic covered with dirt came, and began to assemble the loom. When the guests began to drink cans of tea, the aquatic distribution was replaced, "The loom is not much to look at, and the things may not be able to be found." "The source of aquatic life is clear three times. I wore a black tunic of mine.

The parts of the loom are scattered, most of them are in the kiln behind the courtyard, and the rest of the parts are in several places. Shui Shengyuan ran out and ran in, and it took an hour of busy work to basically get all the parts. The loom is as simple as a toy, and the frame is made of square wooden strips, and the rods are simple and easy to insert. Individual components are made of branches, thick or thin, and some are twisted.

The weaving shaft, the back beam, the chest beam, and the cloth roller are all made of wooden sticks made of local materials. The most manufacturable parts of the entire weaving machine are the heald frame and the shuttle. The upper and lower horizontal axes of the heald frame are still two sticks, and the left and right side stalls are two ropes made of cowhide. Healds are very well-proportioned yarns and are all spun by hand. The black and white wool threads are tied to the beams of the heald frame at both ends, and the upper and lower parts are intersected with each other.

The joint is the heald eye, which is used to lift the warp thread. The shuttle, also known as the weaving knife, is hypertrophic in the middle, with thin tips at both ends, and a total length of about 50 cm. The back of the knife is heavy, the blade is narrow, and a layer of iron is added to the knife, which can be called sharp. The belly of the loom is hollow, and the rolled weft yarn can be hidden inside. The surface of the whole shuttle knife is smooth and clean, and the wood grain is clear and the wood color is bright in the parts that have been worn for a long time.

Stood up. But there are two sets of heald frames and healds, and the aquatic source is assembled one by one, and the rack is soon judged to be inseparable from her. "One set is for strips. The group used a good line to stretch the knotted place, the heald is the most critical, it takes a long time, and it is easy to break when it is disassembled. "Tie the knot in a different position, durable. You can't always use one place to lift the thread.

Aquatic sources are introduced while splitting the tangled healds.

Shuttle, also known as weaving knife. The weaving knife of the buffalo source has been silent for 30 years, but the delicate wood grain that was sharpened back then is clearly recognizable, and it is as fresh as ever to make coats and quilts. The white wool is spun into thread, dyed with pigments, woven into cloth, and the red and blue are taken by themselves.

"In the old society, people were poor, and only the landlords raised sheep and wool in their homes. Therefore, weaving woolen cloth can only be afforded by the rich. In Shui Shengyuan's recollections, his father was away all the year round and was a professional weaver, and he had never done farm work.

After 1949, the agrarian revolution balanced the appropriation of resources by the rural population. Weaving cloth was no longer the preserve of the landlord family, and the peasants could also weave some utensils for their own homes by accumulating some wool. The scope of water is obviously larger, and it has become a real "stepping on thousands of doors".

There are obviously five brothers in Shui, the second in line. He went out to work all the year round, and only returned home during the Chinese New Year, and rarely cared about the family's farm work, which caused the dissatisfaction of the other brothers. "I am the shopkeeper of the family, and I want to beat my father and not let me go out to weave." No matter how much he obstructed it, the water was clearly determined to weave the cloth.

In 1957, Shui Shengyuan's mother left her four sons behind, and the pressure on Shui to support the family increased dramatically. The corresponding body to complete. ”

The listener stopped to keep its value, and the aquatic source got into the loom from the carport at the gate, and the dusty rags. This is the position where Zhengfang is full of Sulong rags and looms, so that the viewer's understanding is intuitive at once. There is a yarn. "The aquatic is to fiddle with the lower beams of the heald frame, and the thin rope is tied with cowhide, which belongs to the operation period, and there is a lifting plastic according to the four rope stems.

The fast ring of each said is beautiful in a phase of the district, and I want to be another one that is not broken. The end is lattice on the base point of the lower part of the loom roll. After rolling the cloth rollers, the two heald frames on both sides of the pulley row jump up and down in turn. This mobile place is a key step in weaving cloth on an old-fashioned loom. The heald frame jumps up and down. Drive all the warp threads into two groups of upper and lower tensions, opening the "portal" for the back and forth of the weft.

Frames, squeaks, jingles. The loose loom, the pulley that drives the heald frame, the tread stick at the lower part of the heald frame, and the iron are broken, and the sound of wood and iron intertwining is made under the manipulation of the aquatic source. It was the familiar voice of the aquatic source, and it brought his mind back to the troubled years of 30 years ago.

For as long as I can remember, the ears of the aquatic source have been intertwined with clanging and squeaking. Jingle bells, father Shui is obviously a famous weaver. The craftsmanship of weaving woolen fabrics from Shui Shengyuan comes from his father Shui Mingya, born in 1921, when Shui was obviously young, there was no decent industry in China, and handicrafts dominated people's needs for food, clothing and housing.

Since ancient times, the Longzhong area is a place where Hu and Han people live together, and cotton cannot be grown with wool spinning, and wool yarn solves the problem of clothing than the purchase standard.

cloth is typically self-sufficient. The fabric woven from wool has a soft texture and can be used as a pocket for grain. The wool and camel hair are smooth, and he can only be more diligent.

Shui Ming is a family. Since then, the 10-year-old aquatic lake has no labor. tasks. As a result, he lost the opportunity to go to school, and became newly illiterate.

Under two yarns. The way to increase one's own collection is to work overtime at night, and the 1.5 yuan in cash earned a day, 1.3 yuan to be handed over to the production and agricultural cooperative period. I can only leave it to the production team to hand in, if I can't hand it over, it means that we yuan. "At that time, my father worked very hard, and if he cheated and cheated, the family would not have anything to eat." Not aggressively, it is not enough to earn money that can increase the daily income to 3.

At the age of twelve or thirteen, Shui Shengyuan began to learn weaving from his father, and by the time he was fifteen or eighteen, Shui Shengyuan had already mastered the weaving skills. In the era when water was obviously out of fashion, quilts and coats had to be woven. By the mid-1960s, farmers had no private means of production and could not accumulate wool unless they went. The wool of socialism". So the customer became the production team, and the main fabric became a big pocket for the large demand for agricultural production. From this period onwards, his father Shui obviously gradually ended his art. The hard skills of knitting woolen pockets cultivated by aquatic sources can only be processed at home in a workshop style.

Aquatic source works for a day, and then works a few hours in the evening, which can weave 15% wider. Rice length wool cloth wool cloth can be graded to infinite length, but it does not need to be long to make pockets.

The washed woolen cloth is as good-looking as a tweed, and it is maintained on three sides, that is, only a pocket, and the volume is able to hold 1 bucket of Xiaoling. Remove the dirt in the wool, the cow wool weaving is washed and seen the bag between the p, the four sides are like wool felt without seams, it is really beautiful. The essentials are very important when washing, and not washing will make the wool cloth loose.

10 After the Ministry of Aquatic Life had woven the goods for his own home, the loom given to him by the old father was dismantled and entered the Kerun at the back of the village, until the 19th year, when the water was obviously desexual, the loom did not run again.

The last pocket, which had been used for more than 20 years, had been bitten by rats with many large holes and turned into a pile of rags. But the aquatic source was reluctant to throw it. After more than 30 years of reorganizing the machine, the rag cloth that Shui Shengyuan took out of the pile of rags and demonstrated was the last pocket in his craft career.

"After more than 30 years of not doing it, the craft of weaving has long been lost. Now I don't think anyone in the whole of Dingxi can weave. I was supposed to be the last weaver, and the loom was not chopped for firewood, not because of its cultural value, but in memory of my old father. In the old tradition of our Dingxi people, the objects used by our ancestors must always leave one or two pieces to remember. ”

Shui Shengyuan is full of satisfaction that someone pays attention to his weaving skills. After the reorganized loom was photographed, it was not willing to dismantle it, but carried it into the main house. The "last pocket", which had become a strip of rags, was also folded squarely and placed into the house, and at the gate of the car, the doorcloth was taken off by the aquatic source, and it was a half-cut woolen cloth. Although the face of the curtain has faded after decades of wind and sun, the lining is still deep red and thick. Shui Shengyuan carefully folded the two pieces of woolen cloth together.

Peasant craftsmen, there is no distinct identity. Craftsmen will quickly return to the most primitive state, farming is to make a living, and craftsmanship is also to make a living. With the rise and fall of demand, the market is gone, but there are many people who can farm, and everyone does not accept farming. Farming is actually a craft, and all crafts are lost. Farming is a craft.

The city was very angry, but it had to stay, and the house was empty. The large courtyard of the aquatic source is empty. The courtyard was empty, and one of the four Shui Shengyuan brothers had also learned to weave, but he couldn't weave well. My father valued the craftsmanship of aquatic noodles the most, and Shui Shengyuan became the successor of Zheng'er Renjing.

In the 1970s, the work sent by the various production teams was not enough to feed the family. Aquatic sources - while participating in the work of the production team, - and using the noon and evening time to earn money to replenish rations. At this time, weaving a pocket can earn four yuan, basically two days to do a good pocket, including weaving and sewing.

Once, a production team needed more than a dozen pockets at a time, and it took more than a month for Shui Shengyuan to do it well. That's a lot of money, close to $30. Since the aquatic source is produced in his own home, the owner must follow the practice that the craftsmen in Longzhong must provide food and accommodation, and the first production team paid an additional 80 catties of wheat and 3 catties of clear oil to the aquatic source. The production team he was in easily did not ask for leave, and in order to get his remuneration back, Shui Shengyuan only took half a day off.

He drove 40 miles of mountain road to the production team, and it was nearly evening when he picked up wheat and oil. Shui Shengyuan walked home at night with his burden, and when he crossed the river, he heard the sound of the river, but he couldn't see the road." Halfway through, a goat suddenly appeared in front of him, and Shui Shengyuan threw down his courage to chase after him, chasing and pressing, and suddenly disappeared. Shui Shengyuan returned home and told his father that he had almost caught a goat. "My father was very surprised when he heard this, and said don't chase after him in the future, it's a harmful ghost."

"I love carpenters, not weaving. But my father didn't like me being a carpenter. "Shui Shengyuan's attitude towards weaving is derived from a cousin-in-law's evaluation of his father: "Chinese New Year's Eve, the second uncle's house is still flying wool." As much as I don't like it, the aquatic source also yarn pockets.

In the late 170s, chemical fertilizers appeared in China one after another. The plastic bags containing the fertilizer can also be used once and then used as a tool for farmers to hold grain. The history of the wool oral attack is that he has been a weaver for more than ten years.

"I came to Zhuangyuan half a year ago and also entered the city. Hide the inseparable feelings for the dirt yard. It was when the rural network was reformed, Shui Shengyuan and his wife gave birth to four daughters, two sons, "The plan is strict, but behind the scenes, I am encouraged to continue to have sons." I hope it's all on my son. The son talked about the object in Dingxi City, and when he got married, not only did the in-laws not ask for courtesy. There is no requirement for the fire building order. On the contrary, he also built a courtyard house for his son-in-law.

When it comes to his son's marriage, Shui Sheng Yuanzhen is happy, but when it comes to his in-laws, he uses the gap in Slope Township, and there seems to be endless entanglements.

Families have left the village and moved into the city, where the aquatic source has been seeking to fend for itself. In 1980, after Shui Shengyuan finished weaving the last woolen bag, he learned the rough carpentry skills, repairing the earthen house and making small cabinets. He loves the art industry and knows a little about carpentry technology, so he went to the furniture job at the age of 68. 1,800 yuan a month, including food and accommodation. Shui Shengyuan said that the work is not the best heart.

"The boss was too stingy, the painter cooked for the three of us, and the boss ate too much oil. Who can't afford to eat oil these days? Besides, how many catties of oil can the three of us eat to make him poor?"

Shui Shengyuan wanted to change jobs, but it was difficult to find a suitable one.

It is difficult for people in the city to deal with, and it is difficult to adapt to the environment of the city. Aquatic sources have a lot of complaints about the people and things in the city. However, he still plunged headlong into the city.

In the middle of summer, the air is filled with dense heat, and the yellow apricots hang all over the branches, and the ripe ones fall spontaneously and spread on the village road. Some have been bitten by insects and rats, revealing the tender flesh and exuding a rich fragrance.

Weaving cloth is not an easy task, and it takes quite a long time to become proficient. Once a person is proficient in weaving, he can even weave quickly without looking, just with his hands and feet mechanically cooperating. With such proficiency, you can weave 4 meters of cloth in a day.

Weaving cloth is not an easy task, and it takes quite a long time to become proficient. Once a person is proficient in weaving, he can even weave quickly without looking, just with his hands and feet mechanically cooperating.

The dense threads of various colors on the loom need to be separated and arranged in order.

Weaving cloth is not an easy task, and it takes quite a long time to become proficient. Once a person is proficient in weaving, he can even weave quickly without looking, just with his hands and feet mechanically cooperating. With such proficiency, you can weave 4 meters of cloth in a day.

Weaving cloth is not an easy task, and it takes quite a long time to become proficient. Once a person is proficient in weaving, he can even weave quickly without looking, just with his hands and feet mechanically cooperating. With such proficiency, you can weave 4 meters of cloth in a day.

Weaving cloth is not an easy task, and it takes quite a long time to become proficient. Once a person is proficient in weaving, he can even weave quickly without looking, just with his hands and feet mechanically cooperating. With such proficiency, you can weave 4 meters of cloth in a day.

Many young people have never seen this loom, let alone know how to use it. With every click of the shuttle to and from left to right, it is the sound of the impact of the frame, and the main function of the frame is to use the pole fixed in front of it to smash each weft thread drawn by the shuttle on the cloth surface.

When it comes to weaving, it always reminds people of the scene of "chirp and chirp, Mulan is a household weaving". Weaving has a history of thousands of years in China, the long history of weaving handicraft has also influenced generation after generation of people, and then with the industrial production has made the former national handmade textile skills gradually away from us, but its simple texture and the human feeling revealed in the silk thread has never been able to erase the warm memory in people's minds.

When people are about to forget this kind of handicraft, a few days ago, in the house at No. 31 Bowen Middle Road, Nantian Town, there was the rhythmic and rhythmic sound of the old-fashioned loom. Intrigued by this craft, I visited the owner of this home.

It was the mistress of the family who weaved the cloth, and when she walked in, she was sitting upright in front of the loom, her feet alternating up and down between the pedals, and her hands alternately controlling the machine and the shuttle. Next to the loom are spinning wheels, spinning wheels, cotton threads, shuttles, crutches, shuttle threads, wax blocks and other tools.

The hostess's name is Hu Jinxing, and she introduced that she is a native of Bixi Village, Yuhu Town, and her weaving skills were originally learned from her mother. After marrying in Nantian Town, she continued to study with her mother-in-law. Hu Jinxing said: "Life in the past was not as convenient as it is now, and I bought what I wanted, and most of the clothes I wore were made by myself. And at that time, the project of making a piece of clothing was very huge, from spinning to weaving, and then to ready-to-wear, there were dozens of processes in the middle, and the process was very cumbersome.

Weaving was the survival skill of most women at that time. Therefore, girls must learn to make needlework and weaving from an early age. I learned weaving when I was 18, and when I got married at the age of 20, I made the dowry myself. ”

Indeed, the weaving process of hand-looting is extremely complex, in the past, weaving, to start from picking cotton spinning thread, to the weaving of the machine, to go through ginning, elastic flower, spinning, threading, pulping and dyeing, the line, the line, the line, the warp, the brush, the heald, the break, the heave, the crane, the plug, the weaving, the machine and other size 72 processes, all the processes are manual. Tools include cotton removers, cotton elasticizers, spinning wheels, winches, warp warps, pedal looms, etc.

The cotton remover is used to remove the cotton picked cotton, manually cranked or pedaled operation, through the skin and iron rolling each other, squeezing the cotton, so that the cotton is separated. The cotton elasticator is used to loosen the fibers in the cotton that has been stripped of the cotton. It is composed of a slingcotton bow and a hammer. The spinning wheel is used to spin the elastic cotton into cotton thread, which is hand-shaken by hand, and can be spun eight taels per day.

The winch is used to twist the spun spindle into several strands, which is convenient for pulping and washing. Before weaving, the cotton thread is straightened into a warp by manually running back and forth, and its structure is composed of wooden boards and nails. The pedal loom is a series of actions such as foot pedaling, hand pushing, and throwing shuttle to spin cotton threads into cloth.

Hu Jinxing introduced that there are many weaving processes, which is a nerve-wracking thing, and each process must be skillful: first, the warp sizing, that is, the warp sizing is done once with batter. If the batter is too thick, the warp thread will be brittle and easy to break; If the batter is too thin, the warp thread will be loose and easy to break.

The second is to draw the thread, that is, the upper warp, the thread is held by hand, and the hand should be balanced, otherwise the thread drawn out is not tight, and it is easy to be interrupted by the shuttle when weaving. Then there is the crepe, the length of the crepe buckle should be consistent, so that the upper and lower warp lines can be completely separated, and the shuttle can come and go unimpeded. The most important thing in weaving is to push the hand and the foot to step on.

The rope cavity (the wooden frame with the buckle) for weaving is pushed by hand, and the slow time of the heavy fall of the push, the tightness of the cloth, the fast of the light fall, the sparse and uneven cloth. Finally, there is the trimming cloth. First, scrape off the small bumps on the cloth, then seal the cloth in a jar, burn sulfur, the cloth is smoked white, take out, spray and fold, and put it on the stone to hang flat. After these processes, the cloth is bleached, smooth, and dense.

If you want to weave a cloth with a sense of color layering, you also need to match the colors when warping. Because the pattern of weaving is not fixed, the weaving process is according to the needs and preferences to match, the color can change from 20 kinds to thousands of kinds, in front of the online machine, it is necessary to warp the required thread, through repetition, parallelism, continuity, interval, contrast and other changes, the formation of the unique rhythm and rhythm of the line. If you want to weave a good-looking pattern, you must rely on the interweaving and interspersing of various color threads to embody it, and the woven cloth can achieve the desired effect.

Hu Jinxing said: "In the past, weaving cloth had to spin cotton into yarn on a spinning wheel, and it could only be used after sizing and dyeing, but now weaving cloth does not need to be spinned, it is to buy finished cotton yarn, or go to the factory to buy cotton fabric scraps, and then process it again, and then you can weave it." Compared with the past, weaving saves several processes.

But there are some procedures that are indispensable, such as falling wires, warp threads, cranes, plugs, etc., and for example, the shuttle thread used on the shuttle when weaving cloth should be wound to the shuttle core with a spinning wheel for use in weaving. As he spoke, Hu Jinxing was in front of the spinning wheel with a wooden structure, and showed us a few shuttles on the spot.

I saw her sitting in front of the spinning wheel, unhurried, and in a while a few shuttles were wound. The spinning wheel she uses is also different from the traditional spinning wheel, the original spinning wheel is shaken by hand, and her spinning wheel has been modified, equipped with a steel ring, and replaced with pedals, which saves a lot of effort.

Due to the cumbersome weaving process, several people are usually required to cooperate in the preparation of weaving. The process of color matching, hoisting, and plugging cloth will be completed by Hu Jinxing and her husband.

According to reports, weaving 2 feet 4 wide cloth surface will require 580 yarns to go down, sometimes more, the strength of the line should be uniform when the warp, the thread will be broken if it is too tight, and it will affect the weaving cloth if it is too loose, and then the yarn will be tightened one by one through the comb in the order of arrangement, and the process is quite labor-intensive. There are only two processes of warp thread and tethered cloth, and two people are busy from morning to night, and it takes 3 to 4 days.

Hand-weaving is not only troublesome in the preparation process, the cloth is also relatively slow, a more skilled weaver, a day can only weave up to 7 or 8 feet of cloth, in the past a piece of cloth is only 5, 6 zhang, according to the meter is less than 20 meters. Since the cloth is not wide, one piece of cloth is only enough to make a few clothes. In addition, the living conditions at that time were poor, and it was rare to weave cloth once a year, and if the family had a large population, sometimes it was difficult for a person to add a piece of clothing for a year or two.

Folk hand-woven cloth is generally coarse cloth, coarse cloth is also called "homespun cloth", "old coarse cloth", "home weaving", mostly made of cotton weaving. Coarse cloth often has regular warp stripes and is slightly coarse. And the coarse cloth has the irreplaceable superiority of woven fabric, the product has the characteristics of no pollution, good air permeability, sweat absorption, elasticity, soft and comfortable, warm in winter and cool in summer, no static electricity, strong skin affinity, durable, etc., and has high use value.

Because the coarse cloth is made of pure cotton yarn as raw material, and the whole process is made by hand, it is a real green, environmentally friendly, and natural product without any industrial pollution. In today's people advocating nature and longing for green, coarse cloth has once again become a hot spot for people to chase fashion, and is favored by people who like pastoral style, love nature, and seek to return to the basics, and become the best gift for relatives and friends.

In Hu Jinxing's home, I also saw rolls of natural, green, cool and breathable coarse cloth that had been woven. The patterns of these cloths are interwoven with various color threads to form a variety of graphics to embody, the colors are bright or light, and the style is simple and bold, not at all ostentatious. This kind of coarse cloth carefully woven with a shuttle contains an ancient humanistic atmosphere, which makes people have a feeling of returning to simplicity and comforting nature.

Nowadays, with the improvement of people's material living standards and the concept of health, green and environmentally friendly handmade coarse cloth has quietly returned, regained its favor, and is worth a lot of money. Hu Jinxing said that the cloth she weaves does not sell much, and she gives it to relatives and friends as gifts, and occasionally people come to buy it, and she also sells some of it as bed sheets, with a large bed for more than 200 yuan a bed and a small bed for more than 100 yuan.

When Hu Jinxing was weaving, several elderly people came to the family to watch. During the inquiry, the old people also said that when they were young, almost every family could weave cloth, and all women could weave. Later, due to the low production efficiency and high labor cost of hand-woven cloth, it has been replaced by industrial cloth. In Nantian Town, I only saw Hu Jinxing weaving, many families don't weave, the older generation doesn't weave, and the young people can't.

When asked about inheritance, Hu Jinxing said that her daughter used to work in a textile factory in Wenzhou, and now she is also going to business, and her craftsmanship has not been passed on.

Listening to their stories, I couldn't help but sigh that hearing the sound of weaving is so precious now. In a few years, how long will the sound of weaving be heard?

The father sat upright on the loom, his feet on the pedals, and two rows of longitudinal yarns fell vertically around a beam, inserted into the sand cone that held the ground in place. With the rhythm of the pedal, it "bites" into a 45-degree yarn mouth alternately.

The father's right hand dragged the "slippery" (a wooden drill for inserting yarn) and let it cross the "yarn mouth" back and forth; The left hand rhythmically pulls the wooden comb (commonly known as "chuangzi") with a long and wide bottom (commonly known as "chuangzi") at the bottom...... With the "movement" of "click, click", a beautiful handmade cloth with uniform thickness and width was born.

Mother sat in the corner of the spinning wheel, spinning cotton yarn, and from time to time she glanced up at the loom, as if to check whether the cloth her father had woven was flawless. My father was engrossed, humming a little song and not knowing it. Mother Wan'er smiled, shook the spinning wheel vigorously, and the left hand that pinched the cotton wool strip spit out the white yarn like a spring silkworm.

As a result, the "Woo La Woo La" sound of the spinning wheel and the "click" sound of the loom were played into a symphony of the happy life of "male weaver and female spinning".

To weave good cloth, you need to grow good cotton.

In early spring, when the sun is just shining, the farmers are busy with the good cotton for the coming year. The parents carried the cotton seeds to the ground to plant cotton, here they carried the wheat seedlings and vegetable seedlings, and the other side planted the seeds, and the dew quickly wet the clothes.

If you harvest cotton well, you have to hoe it.

"The seedlings have risen and broken their shells three times, and the cotton hoes have been scorched three times and are as white as snow." Diligent hoeing is not only to remove weeds and prevent them from competing with cotton seedlings for nutrients, but also to keep the soil soft and promote the development of the root system, so that the cotton nucleus can be abundant, the cotton flowers will bloom large, the cotton silk will be long and the cotton quality will be good.

After the gestation from spring to summer, the cotton verification that smiled and opened its mouth couldn't hold it back, and it scrambled to open. The cotton flowers fall like white clouds, and the cotton fields are like snow covered, which is very spectacular. The owners of cotton carried bamboo baskets and went down to the field to pick cotton with joy, only to hear the laughter and singing of the big girl and the little daughter-in-law, drifting into the distance with the white clouds.

To weave a good cloth, you also need to spin a good yarn.

My mother spun yarn like thread and drew yarn like silk, and she was a well-known spinning expert in our area. I still remember that at that time, in order to learn spinning from my mother, the villagers moved the spinning wheel to the big locust tree in front of the house.

The spinning wheel made a "woo-la-woo" sound together, startling the birds on the branches to fly around, and the spinning girls under the tree couldn't help but laugh.

Weaving has to go through a number of processes such as twisting, stretching cotton, spinning, sizing, and beating tubes, and not everyone can afford to put down the work, and a wooden loom is expensive, so few households in ten miles and eight townships have the ability to weave.

Therefore, whenever the scythe is put into the warehouse and the snowflakes are flying, it is the busiest day for my father and mother. Because my father has the skill of weaving a good cloth, and my mother has the ability to spin a good yarn; In addition, there is a good loom handed down from the ancestors and a natural warm-heartedness, so there is an endless stream of people who come to the door to ask for weaving.

My parents never paid for weaving and spinning for others, and the villagers who didn't want to go would give two feet of coarse cloth as remuneration or help with farm work. Mother always said that the villagers in the township have not yet asked for help.

In the early years, there were not many farmers who could afford to wear foreign cloth, almost all of them were self-planted, self-spinned, self-woven, self-made, pure natural cotton, not dyed, ecological textiles, but also comfortable and warm.

Although the fabric woven by modern machinery is fine, beautiful and readily available, it cannot replace the nostalgia, local flavor and rural charm of artificial spinning and weaving, and lacks the simplicity and beauty of the original ecology.

Nowadays, the spinning and weaving skills of the farmer have been sealed by the years, but what cannot be sealed is the nostalgia that "weaves" into the depths of my soul.

The fabric she weaves is not as bright as modern fabric, but it has a unique texture, when the child gets married, she has to use the fabric she knitted by herself to make clothes, quilt covers, and there are happy events in the village are inseparable from her century-old wooden handloom.

Yesterday, in Daji Town, Xianyou County, Haidu reporters found her, 79-year-old Zheng Adao, as in the past, sitting on the bamboo board of the loom, wearing reading glasses, and fiddling with this old object that has been passed down for generations.

Cotton threads turn into cloth through more than a dozen processes

Zheng Adao, an old man from Osaka Village, Daji Town, Xianyou County, is 79 years old this year. She is a well-known weaver in the village, and she is also an old man in the village who still weaves cloth on a wooden hand loom, and the villagers affectionately call her "Ah Dao". She learned how to spin and weave cloth from her grandmother when she was 19 years old, and has been hand-weaving for 60 years, she said.

Yesterday, at Ah Dao's house, the old man was weaving. The wooden handloom was placed at the entrance of the ancestral hall, and it was "creaking" happily, and the finished cloth on the platform was already a thick stack. The old man Ah Dao is skillful, accompanied by the rhythmic pedal sound of the soles of his feet, and the wooden shuttle shuttles back and forth in the cotton thread, which is dizzying. Ah Dao's hands and feet are very tacit, and the length of the cloth is constantly extended.

The first time I saw a wooden handloom was very fresh. The loom had been in use since her grandmother's time, and it had been used for hundreds of years, and it looked worn out but still very durable. A Dao told reporters that a piece of cloth has to go through more than a dozen processes from cotton thread to cloth, such as kneading cotton slivers, spinning threads, raking threads, reversing threads, and so on.

"Nowadays, we usually go to the market and buy white cotton threads, then disassemble them into thin cotton threads, and then four people take care of these thin cotton threads together, and put them on the loom one by one." Dao said that she needs to weave the width of the cloth to decide how much Zhen to use, and the cloth she is weaving now uses 7 frames, with 40 cotton threads in each frame, and a row used to be 280. These processes require patience to complete, and if a thread is set or broken, the whole cloth may not be able to be woven.

The loom is also equipped with a spinning wheel, A Dao showed the reporter how to use the spinning wheel, only to see that she first wrapped the cotton thread on the spindle of the spinning wheel, shook the spinning wheel to let the spindle high spindle turn, the left hand loosened the cotton thread one after another, and the cycle reciprocated, and after a while, a thread ear was spun. A Dao told reporters that spinning the tassel with a spinning wheel is much faster than winding the thread by hand. I can't help but sigh at the wisdom of ancient humans to invent this time-saving and labor-saving machine.

In addition to the white cloth that is being woven now, Ah Dao also weaves flower cloth. With that, she took out the flower cloth she had woven some time ago from the room next to the ancestral hall. The reporter noticed that this flower cloth is woven with cotton threads of various colors, although it is not as bright as the current cloth, but it is very textured in the hand. "When we were young, we would make quilt covers out of floral cloth, which was not as light as the current quilts, but they were very close to the body and very warm." When her eldest son got married, she used the cloth she had woven to make clothes and quilt covers for him. Now the white cloth, when someone in the village gets married or has a birthday, Ah Dao dyes the cloth red and gives it to them to make a red cloth bag, which is used to wrap the gift plate and make a good omen.

"When weaving, you need to use your hands and feet at the same time, which can achieve the effect of exercising your body. My mother is usually in good health and has no serious illnesses. The maternal great-grandmother who used to weave also lived to be more than 100 years old. A Dao's daughter told reporters that although her mother is close to old age, her body is still very healthy.

Ah Dao recalled that her grandmother did not teach her the craft of weaving. When she was a teenager at that time, she often stood in front of the loom to see how her grandmother weaved, and after a long time, she would do it, and she often took advantage of the gap between her grandmother's getting up and leaving, sitting in front of the loom, and learning to weave like an adult. "Sometimes I would break the thread and run away, and when my grandmother returned to the loom, she would see how she reconnected the broken thread." Ah Dao said with a smile, in this way, I see more and do more, and I will learn the craft.

Nowadays, mechanized production has been the general trend, the traditional hand-loom has gradually faded out of people's sight, the wooden handloom has also withdrawn from the historical stage, and the colorful cloth is mostly produced by textile mills. Although the texture of the hand-woven cloth is not as delicate as that of the machine, and there are not so many patterns, but in this cloth, each cotton thread is integrated into the weaver's painstaking efforts, which is the crystallization of concentration and patience.

According to Dao, the old people in the village are now seventy or eighty years old and can weave cloth by hand. "When I was young, many families in the village would use wooden handlooms to weave cloth, some of which were sold to the outside world, and some of which were kept for domestic use." Now that they are old and dazzled, they have not continued to weave, and her eyes can still see clearly, so she weaves a weaving cloth in her leisure time, killing time, and also remembering the old craft in her memory.

According to the data, in the Yuan and Ming dynasties, cotton textile technology developed rapidly, and the people's daily clothing gradually changed from linen cloth to cotton cloth, which is the development stage of manual machine weaving. The "spinning lun" unearthed at the site of the Warring States Period in Beiwu in Houma City strongly proves the history of the textile industry in southern Jinnan.

Huang Daopo, a weaver in the Yuan Dynasty, invented the foot-operated loom, also known as the shuttle machine. Huang Daopo learned weaving technology from the local Li compatriots in Hainan, and integrated the advantages of the prevention and control technology of the two groups of Li and Han people, summed up a set of more advanced weaving technology, and finally invented the pedal loom that can still be seen until now, that is, the shuttle machine.

The traditional loom has a complex structure and troublesome operation, so it leaves a deep impression on people, it has a similar frame to the wooden bed, the loom consists of the main body, two rollers, a baffle, a pedal, a heald (a device on the loom that separates the warp threads up and down so that the shuttle can pass smoothly), rope, a reed (also called a reed, a row of small bamboo strips closely arranged together, generally there are 100 evenly distributed, only one warp can be allowed between the roots, each small bamboo strip looks similar to the toothpick we see today, but flat, The two ends of the bamboo strips are made of thin bamboo boards or wooden boards tied with wire), etc.

At one end of the loom is a head (thread post) covered with warp threads, and there are six wings at both ends of the loom, which can be controlled and rotated. Not far from the nose of the machine is installed the erected frame, its function is to pull two threads through the horizontal wooden rod above, the thread is the same width as the head, the height of about 20 centimeters of rectangular line brush, the lower part of the thread is connected by the lead rope to connect two pedals, take turns to step on the pedal, the thread is divided into two layers, the warp thread that evenly passes through the thin eye is divided into two layers, the weaving shuttle passes through the middle of the two layers of warp, leads the weft and the warp to stagger, and then forms a cloth through the extrusion of the machine.

When weaving, the fuselage should have a certain inclination, the women sit in front of the cloth post at the end of the loom, the pedals of both feet alternate up and down, and the hands take turns to control the machine and the shuttle, only to see the hands flying, shuttling back and forth, and the skillful movements are as wonderful as playing the piano.

The bamboo silk brocade horizontal divider that Shenzhen Yongle was fortunate enough to collect recently is one of the parts of the ancient loom. The meaning of the word "brocade" is "golden silk", which means "a fabric as gorgeous and noble as gold and silver". "Interpretation" said: "Jin, Jin also." The labor is heavy, and its price is like gold. Therefore, only His Holiness obeyed it. "Jin is a luxurious silk, in ancient times for the nobles.

With a history of 5,000 years, Chinese culture has left objects that correspond to history, culture and craftsmanship in various periods. From ancient times to the present, human beings have been in the first place for clothing, food, housing and transportation, because clothing is a person's appearance, spirit, it can reflect many aspects of a person. From ancient times to the present, textile is a folk processing and production, and the objects that can be confirmed in the past history are few and few. Why? Because the weaving objects were not made by the imperial court with exquisite financial materials, but were made of folk and simple materials, and could not withstand the decay of the years and environmental changes, there are few confirmed objects in the present.

This bamboo silk brocade divider is 66 centimeters long and 10 centimeters wide

It is an object in the Guangxu period, and it is an antique with a history of more than 100 years;

It is also a cultural relic, which can reflect the folk culture of that time;

It can reflect the wisdom of the people who developed at that time;

Draw a totem with a signature to protect your product, yes

A large-scale manufacturer;

It is also a handicraft, which shows the time and craftsmanship;

It is also the last witness of artificial weaving, and it is also the witness of entering the leap period and entering the industrial machine weaving.

Strictly speaking, brocade should be called brocade, in fact, it is a method of fabric jacquard, and later called it habitual, the fabric of the brocade method jacquard is called brocade. Brocade is one of the most advanced techniques of fabric jacquard. The common methods of sorting are: brocade, silk, makeup, flat gold, embroidery, printing, and single dyeing. The dragon robe of the Qing Dynasty is a kind of brocade - makeup brocade.

Before the 80s of the last century, people's clothing colors were relatively single, and most of the clothes were made of "old coarse cloth", and as the creator of "old coarse cloth" - traditional looms. With the increasing urbanization of rural areas and the improvement of farmers' living standards, more and more people buy clothes to wear, and the looms have gradually faded out of people's field of vision, and the ancient weaving technology has gradually bid farewell to the historical stage.

It's a pity that this kind of meaningful collection is not very popular at the moment, and only a few people are collecting it. But in another ten years, when the Chinese folk looms are completely extinct, the value of those people's collectibles will be truly reflected. Many may regret that the opportunity to make a fortune was missed again.

Zhao Zhiqing, 46, sits at his home in Beilixin Village, Guhan Town, Xiangyuan County, Shanxi Province, weaving cloth under the lights. She is the inheritor of the old coarse cloth weaving skills of Changzhi City's intangible cultural heritage, and together with her, more than 3,000 rural women in the surrounding counties and cities have become rich by weaving cloth by cooperating with enterprises.

Old coarse cloth, also known as homespun cloth, has a long history of production technology. The local old coarse cloth weaving skills have been selected as the intangible cultural heritage of Shanxi Province and the intangible cultural heritage of Changzhi City, with a total of 72 processes from cotton picking to weaving, including ginning, elastic flowering, spinning, pulping and dyeing, weaving, etc.

"The weaving shuttle is wrapped with tassels, and in the past people used to wrap it by hand, but now people use machines. The ears wrapped in the shuttle are weft threads, and the shuttle shuttles repeatedly in the warp threads to weave into cloth. Zhao Zhiqing told reporters about the process of hand-weaving.

The old coarse cloth is made of pure cotton yarn as raw material, with a soft texture and no static reaction, "warm in winter and cool in summer, good air permeability, deep line coarse lines, and countless massage points on the entire cloth surface. Zhao Zhiqing learned weaving from his grandmother since he was a child, and is now the fifth-generation representative inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of the old coarse cloth weaving skills.

In 2012, the local old coarse cloth production enterprise adopted the method of enterprise and farmer to provide local villagers with weaving machines and technical training, so that villagers can weave cloth for the enterprise at home. Zhao Zhiqing participated in the corporate training and has been among the best in the weaving skills competition many times. Today, she demonstrates her weaving skills at the local intangible cultural heritage hall every day and organizes weaving skills training for local women.

Zhao Zhiqing, 46, sits at his home in Beilixin Village, Guhan Township, Xiangyuan County, Changzhi, Shanxi Province, weaving cloth under the lights.

The local old coarse cloth production enterprises spin the cotton into threads, arrange the threads according to the pattern, and hand them over to the farmers to weave the cloth. Farmers will weave the cloth to the enterprise, workers and then do cutting, rolling, embroidery and other processes, the old coarse cloth can be sold to the outside world, because of the excellent characteristics of the handmade old coarse cloth, although the price is more than twice the woven cloth, but exported to all over the world, extremely popular.

"In the past, I gave my children some farm work, and in addition to farm work, I played mahjong." Zhao Zhiqing said, "After I trained Xiangzi Lao Coarse Cloth Weaving, I can now weave one meter of cloth in an hour, one meter of cloth can earn five yuan a month, and I can earn more than 1,000 yuan a month, which is a lot of income for my family." ”

Step on thousands of doors to be with people

The longbow was still in hand, and the felt was hard to find

"I'm going to run to that far away and bring you back to my yurt. Graze cattle and sheep with me, sing indulgently on the steppe...."In Mongolian folk songs, the yurt is a place where a good life blooms.

Felt is a symbol of nomadism.

Between the vertical and horizontal loess ravines, it is located in the mountain bay. A H mountain beam, several small miles of mud, is a village. The newspaper paste wall and wool felt paved kang in the house are the standard home style of the farmers in the courtyard. Earlier, the barren families were either exposed or laid with a bamboo mat. Being able to spread bamboo mats and wool felt on the earthen kang is definitely a sign of wealth.

Longzhong is not a pastoral area, but sheep farming is common. Here are the number of nomadic and agrarian civilizations in China

Make a yurt room. The combination of clay kang and wool felt, the meeting place of thousands of years. The wool felt is spread here to the point that it has been cultivated to resist, and there is no meaning of the integration of wool felt and nomadism in the early sea of Longzhong as the grass. Luxury chase

"The resident officials beat iron twice, and the wool was rolled out three times and the rent was rolled out. Take a look at the latest chapters of "Dream Claw Book House in the Great Era" and read it for free for the first time.