Chapter 85: Mongolian Mosaic (3)
In Ordos, the headdress styles of each flag county are also slightly different, as many as a dozen. There are no back screen and back screen, there are large back screen and small back screen, and there are long and short vertical chains on both sides of the cheeks, the production process is very complex, some are gorgeous, and some are concise.
According to local customs, girls are required to wear headdresses when they are married, regardless of whether they are rich or poor. A good pair of headgear, the price is quite expensive. So, from the weight of the headdress, you can see how rich and poor a family is. The headdress of the average family girl is very little silver, and the inlaid coral beads are also small, and if you can't afford to use coral, you will replace it with a red feeder, which is worth two or three hundred silver dollars.
The headdress worn by a rich woman when she gets married can weigh more than ten catties and is worth tens of thousands of silver dollars. This valuable headdress can only be obtained in exchange for good horses and herds of cattle and sheep.
The Ordos headdress is composed of two parts: the vertical and the headdress. It is a braided hair ornament that hangs from the left and right braids on the chest, sewn from cloth and cotton wool, embroidered with various patterns and inlaid with silver ornaments and coral beads. The headdress is composed of several parts, such as the forehead hoop, the back screen, the cheek side hanging tassel, and the forehead ear.
The forehead hoop is generally about 10 centimeters high, and there are one to three rows of coral beads on the upper and lower sides, and the middle chisel silver seat is inlaid with large red coral, and the compartment is inlaid with turquoise. The flowing tassel of silver beads on the forehead spreads out in a herringbone shape according to the center of the eyebrows.
The back screen is the back of the headdress, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom in a convex shape, decorated with neatly arranged red coral beads, and there is a square chisel flower silver seat in the middle of the upper and lower parts, embedded with several red coral and turquoise beads.
The back piece hangs behind the ear to the left and right, three inches long, and is crafted like a back screen, decorated with coral, turquoise beads, and has round or square silver decorations on it. The weeping tassels on both sides of the cheeks are silver chains, coral, and turquoise beads, which are symmetrical on the left and right, and there are several or a dozen of them, which are long below the shoulders, and the silver bells are hung at the end of the tail, and they jingle when walking. Most of the large silver earrings used for decoration are hung on the hangs on both sides of the cheeks, and the large ones weigh about a few hundred grams, with as many as four on each side.
According to the custom of the Urat tribe, when the girl is married, she performs a distribution ceremony, and then dresses up and puts a headdress on the bride, which is also topped with a domed standing brim hat with otter skin. The whole set of headdresses consists of forehead bands, pendants, pendants, bows, forehead tassels, hairpins, etc.
The forehead hoop and the back curtain are decorated with horizontal rows of hollow silver seats of the same size, and the silver plates are carved with auspicious patterns, and are connected by a pendant chain inlaid with 20 coral beads at the lower forehead, and then 10 vertical chains made of silver, coral, and green pine beads on each side of the cheeks are set on the forehead hoop, and the vertical chain is longer than the waist.
Above the tassel is a diamond-shaped silver forehead ornament, and the top ornament is set with large turquoise and coral in a circle. The Urat headdress can be split, and married women usually wear only forehead bands, and only wear a full set of headdresses during the New Year's holidays.
The headdress of the women of the Heshute tribe in the depths of the desert is more elegant, consisting of a pair of black hair covers, two coral beads, a silver hairpin and an auspicious seat on the forehead. The hair cover is sewn with cyan satin or velveteen cloth, and the upper and lower ends are embroidered with various floral patterns such as plum blossoms, lotus flowers, lotus flowers, peonies, etc., when wearing, the hair is combed on the top of the head, the braid is put into the hair cover, and the hair cover hangs down to the waist along the temples, and the hair cover is strung under the armpit into the shoulder, and the 20 cm long hair cover is exposed at the hem of the shoulder.
Then connect the upper mouth of the hair cover with a pair of large coral beads, and then string it with a silver hairpin. The auspicious seat is fixed at the top of the forehead, and the silver seat is symmetrically inlaid with 9 jadeites and red coral, and after the headdress is worn, you can wear a hat or no hat depending on the season. In winter, there are marmot pointed standing hats, and in spring and autumn there are round hats.
The Turgot women's headdress is simpler, married women comb their braids, put the braids into a hair cover, and then wear a "Taork" hat with a wide brim in the shape of a "fire" on the front and auspicious patterns on both sides. The girl wore a single braid.
The Mongolian people are a group of only about 1,500 people, and their headdress is unique in that the base is a silver longevity-shaped brain disc or a gilded longevity-shaped brain disk, and is inlaid with 3 small red coral beads on both sides of the middle large. Hanging tassels on both sides of the cheeks, 3 on each side, each strung with 9 beads, the 6th from top to bottom is jade or turquoise beads, the rest are red coral beads, large earrings are hung on the silver ring, the combed two braids are put into a hair cover sewn with black silk satin, hanging down the back of the head, a pair of hair covers are connected by 5 silver buckles, the silver buckles are decorated by franc color, and then fixed to the hair roots with two large coral beads. When wearing a headdress, wrap your head with a black gauze scarf, and after putting on the headdress, you can string the two ends of the veil with silver cards behind the braid, which has a sense of elegance.
Wuzhumuqin is an ancient tribe on the Xilin Gol grassland, and its women's headdress has a three-dimensional effect, mainly composed of sheep's horn hairpins, silver hollow forehead hoops, forehead ears, hanging ears, and back curtains, among which the hanging ears are the most eye-catching. It has a silver butterfly decorated with coral at the top, and a silver bat and an auspicious knot connected to it with a silver ring underneath. There are cloisonné openwork silver ornaments on both sides of the hairpin. The frontal spikes are made of corals and pearls, and are vertical. The temples hang down long tassels of coral, turquoise and silver chains, and the headband is topped with a standing brimmed hat with an auspicious knot at the top.
Chahar's headdress is light and exquisite, with several gilded flower bases embedded in the middle of the hoop. Inlaid with coral, turquoise beads, the two sides of the openwork silver ornaments connected to the tassels, the back of the forehead hoop is a crescent-shaped chisel ornament, connected with coral, turquoise beads woven into a net-like back curtain, the curtain length is shoulder-length, adding to the gorgeousness of the headdress.
The women's headdress of the Balhu tribe retains the traditional characteristics of the tribe intact, and consists of forehead hoops and horn-shaped silver ornaments. The silver forehead hoop is full of chisel flowers, the front part is inlaid with several corals, and 3 hollow small silver bells fall behind, and the two sides are horn-shaped silver ornaments, which are formed by chisel flower technology, and the silver pieces are curved and distinct.
The whole headdress is fan-shaped, the horn-shaped edge is covered with chisel flower silver edge, the silver piece is inlaid with coral, turquoise beads, the back is engraved with a curly grass pattern, 4 silver tassels hang on each side, and the hat is decorated with red tassels, which retains the style of the ancient aristocracy.
The shape of the Buryat headdress is extremely simple. Only the forehead hoop is inlaid with red coral, and the silver rings with openwork flowers hang on both sides, which are connected to the silver box ornament on the chest, which looks delicate and gorgeous.
The headdress of the women of the Horqin tribe is distinctive, which is mainly reflected in the matching of hairpins. The headband is decorated with four rows of coral beads, the forehead is inlaid with rectangular turquoise, the headband is tied to the back of the head from the forehead when worn, and the hairpin of different shapes is inserted on the hairpin, the pattern is finely carved, there are various flower embellishments, delicate and elegant, generous and beautiful, and has a high artistic appreciation value.
An exhibition entitled "Exquisite Snow Desert: Treasures of the Himalayas and Mongolia" is being held at the Art Museum of the Chinese University of Hong Kong until February 24, 2019. The exhibition features more than 150 pieces (sets) of costumes, jewellery and religious utensils from the Himalayas and Mongolian regions from the 17th to the 21st centuries. A pair of "silver-embedded coral seas" in the exhibition are simple and elegant, with extraordinary temperament, and the author is especially fond of them.
The silver inlaid coral Tuhai is a product of the Mongolian people from the 19th to the 20th centuries. The pendant of Coral inlaid with silver has a special meaning for the Mongolian people. Influenced by Hinduism, the Mongolian people's enthusiasm for life, life and religious beliefs is reflected in the production of jewelry, which is very particular about the materials used.
Adorned with coral, which means that it is inseparable from nature, the coral represents the Mars of the star, which is known by its Sanskrit name "Mangala". Coral is brightly colored and can be used as an ornament; Gem-quality corals come in red, pink, and orange-red, all of which are popular among Mongolians.
Corals are highly viable, with a 2.5 billion year long evolutionary process, which can withstand ecological changes over 10,000 years, whether it is violent storms, volcanic eruptions, or repeated sea level rises and falls, but they have not been able to extinguish corals. Wearing coral jewelry or pendants is both a symbol of status and status, as well as a reference to Hindu mythology, which is associated with fire.
Fire represents burning, and Yao represents shining and brightness. The Mongolians advocate the ultimate in coral, but also love silver jewelry, in the archaeological excavation of the Xiongnu tomb, there have been found in the Warring States period silver jewelry. In the 13th century, Mongolia became a hub for gold and silver; Originally, it was a silver jewelry that could only be owned by nobles, but it was popularized at the end of the Yuan Dynasty and widely owned by the people; During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, women wore silver headdresses and silver jewelry, and men also had silver pendants around their waists.
Mongolian silver jewelry to many, big, heavy for the United States, whether in the plateau or pasture, Mongolians like to wear silver jewelry, Mongolia has a number of tribes, silver jewelry types, shapes, patterns are also different with the tribe, wearing methods also have their own characteristics, a small hairpin or hairpin or pendant, can be regarded as a token, very commemorative value, for the people to bring unforgettable memories.
Tuhai, pronounced toohai in Mongolian, means "ornament that plays a connecting role", and is an important part of the traditional Mongolian costume. Tuhai is rich in content, and silver is one of them. These round silver objects are hung with hooks on the top and bottom, and are inlaid with auspicious patterns or patterns along the edges, and inlaid with coral or other treasures.
Mongolians have their own aesthetic characteristics, with a special preference for bright, bright colors, which make people feel bright and cheerful. In the north, the Mongolians have a severe winter full of wind and snow, which is reflected in their daily clothing, with a strong cultural atmosphere, and the snow desert is also exquisite.
The Mongolian people love to decorate, and silver jewelry has become a part of their beautifying life. Whether it is a plateau, or a pasture, the Mongolian people wear silver jewelry is very common, because of the same ethnic group but different tribes, the types of silver jewelry, shape, pattern and wearing method are also distinctive, showing different meanings and exquisite, the cultural connotation is very rich, making it the highlight of Mongolian jewelry. A small hairpin, hairpin, and pendant are often a token, carrying the beautiful memories and eternal remembrance of life.
The most varieties of silver jewelry belong to the Ordos, Ulate, Chahar, Horqin, Uzhumuqin, and Balhu tribes. A Mongolian woman dressed in costumes, whose silver jewelry weighs two or three catties, has become the most eye-catching decoration in Mongolian costumes.
The Ordos women's headdresses, including the forehead hoops, forehead tassels, vertical chains, large earrings, and silver medals inlaid with the upper and lower pendants, are all made of silver. The "bole" worn by Chahar women is available in round and chicken shapes, and it costs a few taels of silver to make one.
There are silver hooks at the upper end, the center of the circle is inlaid with coral beads, a total of 3 circles, there are 3 ears at the lower end of the outer two circles, 3 chicken heart purses are hung respectively, red on both sides, blue in the middle, all hang various color thread tassels, worn on both sides of the long shoulder.
Another kind of chicken heart-shaped, both sides are carved with a pair of bat clips, the upper end has a silver hook, the lower end has 3 ears, and the silk thread tassel is hung. The "good day labor" worn by the women of Wuzhumuqin is shaped like **, carved flowers and plants around the periphery, inlaid with coral in the center, and the lower end is hung with silver auspicious knots, and 4 silver tassels are hung below the auspicious knot, which is specially hung on the buttons sewn on both sides of the women's long shoulders.
Before the advent of matches, the fire chain was a fire-making utensil in the daily life of the Mongolian people, and now it is worn around the waist and has become an ornament. The fire chain worn by the herdsmen is mostly decorated with silver, inlaid with silver nails, engraved with longevity patterns, double lions, flowers and plants, grass dragons, and some are also embossed with animal-shaped and eagle-shaped patterns, which are solemn and simple.
The silver bowl is the most elaborate utensil in Mongolian folklore, and it has become a symbol of Mongolian etiquette. The silver bowl is wrapped with silver sheets, the edge of the bowl is carved with water patterns or flower and grass patterns, the outer edge of the silver plate at the bottom of the bowl is engraved with auspicious patterns, and the center is engraved with five animals or two dragons playing with pearls, eight treasures, four obscene beasts, dragons, ten thousand characters, blessing characters and other patterns, the image is vivid and realistic.
The silver wine pot and the pot are the drinking utensils of the Mongolian nationality, which are small and exquisite, and can be carried around and easy to drink. Its shape is beautiful, the ornamentation is exquisite, and it mostly uses sun patterns, eight treasures, flowers and plants and traditional patterns, which is a daily necessities that herdsmen like. Mongolian knives have a variety of uses, most of them are silver sheaths, silver edges, silver wires, and silver sheaths.
There are many kinds of patterns such as dragons and two dragons playing with pearls, usually with a silver chain, which is easy to wear. Tuhai, round silver objects, with hooks on top and bottom, carved patterns and auspicious motifs along the edges, and inlaid with coral or other precious stones.
Smoke pot, Mongolian dry tobacco pouch, mostly made of jade, agate, porcelain cigarette holder, there are wooden rods covered with silver and inlaid with silver wire, there are silver rods with whole body, there are a variety of silver inlaid bones. With a beautifully embroidered cigarette purse, it hangs around the waist and is also a rare ornament.
Silver snuff bottles, there are men and women are divided, in addition to different styles, the size is also different, men's silver snuff bottles are atmospheric, women's snuff bottles are small and exquisite. Some are inlaid with red coral petals in the center, and blue, yellow, green, and purple cloisonné lace are inlaid on the periphery; Some carved male lions or dragons, with lion heads embossed on both sides, and red coral or turquoise ear stones as lids; Some of the round lace is carved with a dragon inside, and the outer part is engraved with a pan intestine pattern, and there are ears on both sides.
The silver lock worn on the chest of the child is a mascot to pray for the blessing of the gods. Generally, it is engraved with various auspicious patterns and symbols of longevity, fortune, longevity, longevity, and unicorn sending the prince to other patterns and words. Some are inlaid with red coral and other gemstones, wear silver chains or red silk ropes, and are decorated with amber, coral, and sapphires.
The locks are sewn to the baby's cradle or clothing when the child is born, and is worn around the child's neck when he or she can walk, and cannot be removed until the child is 12 years old. The unicorn is the legendary Rui beast, only seen in the peaceful and prosperous times, the child's padlock is mostly based on the unicorn as the theme, "the unicorn sends the child" means that the child sent must be a virtuous person and the material of the pillars.
Silver jewelry can be said to be ubiquitous and ubiquitous in Mongolian life, which decorates and beautifies life. From ancient times to the present, the craftsmanship level of Mongolian silver jewelry continues to move towards perfection, and is good at drawing inspiration from creation, and according to traditional customs, aesthetic taste, continuous innovation in details, to inherit and develop, into a breathtaking national costume ornaments.