Chapter 61: Yunjin (2)
In the process of development, Yunjin has formed many varieties. Judging from the information available now, it can be divided into four categories: "makeup", "weaving gold", "library satin" and "library brocade".
Below each category, there are several varieties. Modern cloud brocade inherited the traditional style of the Ming and Qing dynasties and developed, the traditional varieties have makeup flowers, library brocade, library satin and other categories, library gold, library brocade and so on to the Qing Dynasty after weaving into the internal affairs of the Ministry of Internal Affairs "satin library" and get the name, continue to use to this day.
The heirloom cultural relics include Huangdi Gui Rabbit Pattern Makeup Yarn, Shou Peach Pattern Makeup Yarn, Cloud Crane Pattern Makeup Yarn, and Flower Tree Pu Pattern Makeup Satin. In China's 4,700 years of silk weaving history and 3,000 years of brocade weaving history, it has not yet been replaced by modern machines.
The traditional production process of Yunjin has inherited the ancient Chinese brocade jacquard technology and has developed. Its perfect and mature technology is fully in line with the principle of modern silk jacquard technology.
This long-standing silk weaving jacquard technology is rarely systematically and completely recorded in ancient documents. The most specific record is the book "Heavenly Creation" written by Song Yingxing in the Ming Dynasty. The structure of the jacquard machine drawn in the book is basically the same as that of Yunjin's flower building machine.
The sections such as "silk tuning", "warp tools" and "flower book" are also similar to the traditional production process of Yunjin. This shows that today's Yunjin production process is in the same vein as the ancient Chinese silk weaving jacquard process.
The hand-woven Nanjing cloud brocade is the most precious top grade in the brocade, and its skills are typical of ancient Chinese weaving technology, and its influence has continued to the present day. The genre represented by its "picking flowers and knotting", "warp and weft", "digging flowers and disc weaving", and other weaving processes and the artistic style of "chasing flowers and different colors" is unique in China, and can not be replaced by modern machines, and is rare in the world.
Makeup flower is the most complex variety of weaving technology in Yunjin, and it is also the most representative jacquard silk weaving variety in Nanjing. "Makeup flower" is the general term of weaving techniques, which was first seen in the Ming Dynasty's "Tianshui Iceberg Record".
The book records that among the large number of fabrics copied during the raid of Yan Song's house, there are many silk fabrics with the name of "makeup flowers". Such as "makeup satin", "makeup silk", "makeup Luo", "makeup yarn", "makeup silk", "makeup brocade" and so on.
"Makeup" fabrics are woven with gold thread and non-woven with gold thread. "Makeup" fabrics are characterized by a wide range of colors and rich color variations. In the weaving method, it is to use the weft pipe wound with a variety of different colors of colored velvet to do local weft break and dig flower disc weaving on the pattern on the fabric. This unique cloud brocade weaving technique is extremely free in color matching, not limited by the organizational structure, and is called "makeup flower".
Among the varieties of Yunjin's makeup, there is also a fabric called "Jinbaodi". This is a unique variety of traditional Chinese silk fabrics. "Jinbaodi" is to weave the ground with round gold thread, and weave colorful and gold-colored patterns on the gold ground, and the fabric is extremely magnificent.
Makeup is a prominent colorful pattern on the satin bottom, which is the most complex and gorgeous jacquard silk fabric in Yunjin. Makeup fabrics are varieties that represent the characteristics and styles of Yunjin skills, and are woven with colorful weft patterns on satin, silk, yarn, Luo and other silk fabrics with the technique of "digging flowers".
The pattern layout is rigorous and solemn, the pattern shape is concise and generalized, most of them are large full patterns arranged in a quadripartite continuous arrangement, and there are also large-scale makeup fabrics that are completely matched into a single and suitable for patterns.
With the color of the contrast, often with gold line hook edge or gold and silver line decoration pattern, through the white or color halo transition, with the weft tube small shuttle digging flower color, the fabric is beautiful and vigorous, the gold color is reflected, is the important feature of Yun brocade that distinguishes it from Shu brocade, Song brocade and other brocades. After 1949, innovative varieties were created on the basis of traditional varieties, such as Yuhua brocade, Dunhuang brocade, gold and silver makeup, Ling brocade, and decorative brocade.
In the "Tianshui Iceberg Record", "green makeup flowers are all over the shoulders of gold python satin", and the "yellow weaving gold makeup flower bucket Chinese side yarn" unearthed from the tomb of Wang Xijue in Suzhou is all woven from flat gold. The fabric of "Jinbaodi", one of the representative varieties of Nanjing Yunjin, is also paved with gold, and the whole width is completely woven with gold thread, and then colorful flowers are woven on it.
"Hibiscus makeup" is a kind of large-pattern brocade with a relatively simple color scheme, without a piece of gold twisting, nor with several different shades of color to express the level of the pattern. The whole pattern is represented by only a few different color blocks.
According to the record of the Ming Dynasty's "Tianshui Iceberg Record", there are 17 kinds of makeup flowers, such as makeup satin, makeup yarn, makeup Luo, and makeup silk. There are a lot of cloud brocade makeup flowers in the Ming Dynasty costumes in the old collection of Qufu Confucius Mansion, such as the ink green color makeup yarn python clothes, the Ming Dynasty green green makeup yarn python skirt, and the camel-colored lotus ground phoenix makeup satin skirt 、-->>