Jinqun", also known as "Tianhua Jin" or "Tianhua Jin" (take the meaning of "icing on the cake"). Jinqun is a kind of full-ground regular pattern brocade, which originates from the Song Dynasty's "Eight Halo" brocade (called "Eight Rhymes" in the Yuan Dynasty), and can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty's "Cloud Nest Rui Brocade".

The basic brocade of the brocade group is to use various geometric shapes such as circles, squares, diamonds, hexagons, and octagons to make regular staggered overlaps to form a brocade skeleton with rich changes. In the various changes of geometric skeletons, fill in various forms of small brocade patterns, such as back lines, 10,000 (swastika) patterns, curved water patterns, even money patterns, chain patterns, armor patterns and so on.

In the center of the main geometric pattern, a larger theme flower is installed to make it a kind of brocade with prominent main flowers, brocade style and rich brocade patterns.

The characteristics of Jinqun are: "there are flowers in the brocade, and there are brocades in the flowers". The brocade shape and brocade pattern are varied, and the whole structure is balanced and even; The pattern is complex and regular, the overall effect is harmonious and unified, and it is rich in decorative flavor.

The brocade format is used on makeup fabrics, and it is a complex color matching and gorgeous effect of the compound color halo brocade. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, this kind of brocade is mostly used in the binding of Buddhist scriptures, and the color is Danbi Xuanhuang, which is intricately mixed and blended, and is rich in exquisite and gorgeous decorative effects.

This pattern form of brocade group can be applied to different varieties of fabrics such as "makeup flower", "gold weaving", "brocade" and "library satin", and has different weaving effects.

The pattern design of the cloud brocade pattern, in addition to the "weaving" form of the fabric is more complex and labor-intensive, many of the patterns used in the material are the use of design skills or production technology, cleverly to achieve simplicity and complexity, and receive twice the result with half the effort. In the traditional design method, there is a pattern composition method called "four-sided continuous, eight-sided seal".

When designing the "unit pattern", only half a unit of the pattern is designed first, and then the same half unit pattern is reversed and butted together, that is, it becomes a complete unit pattern.

However, when designing, it must be noted that after the two groups of homomorphic patterns are reversed and docked, the patterns connected at the joint must be properly connected, interspersed naturally, and there is no reluctance to see. More importantly, the unit pattern after the stitching, when the four-sided continuous or eight-sided chapter, the pattern connection should achieve a proper natural, smooth and harmonious effect.

The so-called quadripartite continuous and eight-sided chapter can be done when the unit pattern is continuous in cycle: up and down, down and down can be connected (the pattern can be naturally joined and continuous); Left and right, right and left can be connected; Upside down, the top and the top can be connected, and the lower and lower can also be connected; The left and right sides are reversed, and both sides can be connected.

The pattern composition method of "four-sided continuous and eight-sided chapter" has three obvious advantages: first, the idea is exquisite, the pattern is concise, and it can receive twice the result with half the effort; The second is to pick the flower knot this labor-saving, when picking the flower, as long as you pick into half a unit (a group of patterns) of the flower book, and then use the method of "inverted flower" to copy the same half of the flower, and then use the process of "tube flower" to combine the two and a half flowers, the tube into a complete flower book, "inverted flower" and "tube flower", than to pick half a flower to save labor and faster, and much more accurate; Third, when the material is cut and used, the splicing pattern is more flexible and convenient.

The late Yunjin veteran artist Zhang Fuyong, when he analyzed this design method before his death, once used a text note: "When Yu Chu learned art, the teacher said carefully, or picked flowers, or created drafts, all of which were used as a method to seek the secret of ascending to the hall and entering the room; Because the vines, flowers, and leaves are all available, the eight directions are reversed.

The chapter is short (referring to the short length of the unit pattern) and flexible, and the harmony is consistent, and the echo can also be appropriate. Samadhi is not a few words, and it is also self-satisfied and self-satisfied. It can be seen that the design of the Yunjin pattern is good at using the conditions of production to consider its chapter layout.

On the one hand, it is constrained by the limitations of production conditions, and on the other hand, it can actively use the possible conditions of production and create a method of saving labor and cutting corners, so as to obtain the economic effect of twice the result with half the effort.

This pattern composition method of "four-sided continuous, eight-sided seal" was widely and skillfully used in the design of cloud brocade patterns in the Ming and Qing dynasties. This kind of economical and labor-saving design skills and production skills are worthy of our continued emulation in creative design today.

Among all kinds of silk fabrics, only Yunjin still maintains its traditional characteristics and unique skills, and has always retained the traditional old-fashioned jacquard wood weaving.

The main characteristics of Yun brocade are different colors by flowers, through the warp and weft, digging flowers and weaving, observing from different angles of Yun brocade, the color of flowers on the embroidery is different. Because it is used in royal clothing, Yunjin is often used in weaving with exquisite materials, no expense, and excellence.

An important feature of Nanjing Yunjin brocade that distinguishes it from other brocades is that a large number of jacquard silk fabrics are decorated with gold. Its main varieties are makeup flowers, weaving gold, gold treasures, brocade and so on. Their patterns or add gold, or weave peacock feathers, or apply a large area of various gold and silver threads to interweave on a piece of colorful brocade, resulting in a kind of golden splendor, magnificent and splendid effect.

Nanjing Yunjin is the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasty royal royal dragon robes, crown clothes (such as weaving gold peacock feather makeup yarn dragon robe material, makeup satin dragon robe, twelve regiments of dragon pattern dragon robe, etc.), the noblewoman clothing of the officials and doctors class, specially for the palace or reward meritorious things (such as ink green makeup yarn python clothes, Ming Dynasty green green makeup yarn python skirt, camel color entwined lotus ground phoenix makeup satin skirt, etc.), for the court fabrics, as well as folk clans, festive, wedding clothing and other application categories.

After 1949, in addition to exporting high-end clothing fabrics and costumes for ethnic minorities and performance costumes, Nanjing Yunjin also developed new varieties of colors, such as Yunjin blankets, cushions, quilts, bags, horse clips, ties, hanging screens, mobile phone covers, table flags, Yunjin pen holders, business card boxes and calligraphy and painting mounting, tourist souvenirs, foreign trade and other daily handicrafts, or for mutual gifts or personal collections, decoration.

Nanjing Yunjin began in the Southern Dynasty and flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties, is the best Chinese traditional arts and crafts treasures, Nanjing Yunjin is Nanjing's traditional jacquard silk handicrafts, is the first of Nanjing's craft "three treasures". Nanjing Yunjin and Chengdu's Shu brocade, Suzhou's Song brocade, Guangxi's Zhuang brocade and known as "China's four famous brocades", and Suzhou silk and known as "two famous brocades".

In the ancient silk fabric, "brocade" is the fabric that represents the highest technical level, and Nanjing Yunjin is the culmination of the brocade craft art of the past dynasties, ranking the first of the three famous brocades in ancient China, and is the main material for the royal tribute of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, and the royal clothing. Because of its rich cultural and technological connotation, it is called the last milestone in the history of ancient Chinese brocade craft by experts, recognized as the "treasure of the Orient", and also a precious historical and cultural heritage of the Chinese nation and the world.

Yunjin is one of the most luxurious and exquisite arts and crafts. From the perspective of the essence of the aesthetic art concept expressed by the wide variety of Yunjin, it can be summarized into three forms of beauty: that is, the beauty of the royal court, which is the graceful and luxurious beauty of pursuing expensive luxury; The beauty of scholars and scholars and patriarchs is to show the beauty of lyrical elegance and purity; The beauty of folk festive etiquette is the beauty of pure folk customs that combines practicality and gorgeousness.

It brings together the decorative beautification characteristics of silk (material, tissue) texture, color harmony and beauty, and pattern sentiment, and combines the content and form of "quality and pattern", "ingenuity and art", and "image and image" to achieve the beauty of science and technology and literature and art, and the two perfect and unified form beauty. Therefore, the unique decorative beauty of Yunjin makeup flowers can be adapted to people's enjoyment of the elegant artistic value of aesthetic sentiment.

This is the artistic style of the unity of truth, goodness and beauty of Yunjin's works, which represents the fashion and folklore of national costume culture, and is also one of the evidence of the world's historical and cultural heritage.

On the stage of traditional Chinese drama, whenever there are emperors, generals, princesses and princesses, their dazzling costumes will always make people's eyes shine. They powerfully accentuate the characters and enhance the atmosphere of the plot.

These graceful and luxurious theatrical costumes are based on the costumes of the emperors and concubines of the Ming and Qing dynasties, high-ranking officials and ladies and daughters, and are made through artistic processing. And many of the costumes of these ancient emperors were sewn with Nanjing Yunjin. Therefore, in the "Nanjing Yunjin" also marked a deep "class brand", the imperial costume embodies the concept of "royal power and divine grant", the emperors of the past dynasties proclaimed themselves "the true dragon son of heaven", ordered by the sky, came to the world, and ruled all beings, so a large number of the image of the legendary beast "dragon" was used in the clothing, and the non-emperor was not allowed to use it, in order to show that the king was in the world, and I was the only one.

Nanjing Yunjin's skills are exquisite, and the culture and art are broad and profound. The colors are gorgeous, the colors are harmonious, the national patterns are strange and changing, and the nature is natural, and it has a profound heritage of Chinese auspicious culture. The dragon on the emperor's royal dragon robe is in the form of the main dragon, the dragon, and the dragon, representing the symbolism of the "Son of Heaven" and the "Emperor" to deify power.

The 12 crests of "Sun, Moon, Stars, Mountain, Dragon, Chinese Worm, Zongyi, Algae, Fire, Pink Rice, Yellow, and Yellow" all have the symbolism of the imperial power of "the whole world, it is not the imperial land, ruling the four directions, and being supreme". The auspicious birds, Rui beasts, and ruyi clouds are combined with realistic and freehand ornamentation, as well as the auspicious allegorical patterns and combination patterns of cultural and artistic modeling such as "pictograms, homophony, metaphors, and pretenses" of patterns.

The pattern of Yunjin expresses the design idea of the core theme of Chinese auspicious culture: "power, blessing, lu, longevity, happiness and wealth", which expresses people's prayer for happiness and enthusiastic yearning. Nanjing Yunjin not only has the value of rare treasures and expensive historical relics, but also it is a symbol of national culture that is appreciated by both the elegant and the vulgar, and the collection is auspicious.

Yunjin is specially designed for emperors, generals, princesses and princesses to make costumes, with a distinct imprint of court culture. The divine right of kings is a political theory of the feudal absolute monarchy. The emperors of the past dynasties proclaimed themselves the "true dragon son of heaven", and were ordered by the heavens to rule all beings. Therefore, the emperor's clothes were gorgeously decorated, and the image of the mythical beast "dragon" was widely used on the costumes.

The Yunjin court dress of the Yongzheng Emperor collected by the Palace Museum in Beijing, on the stone blue pigment satin ground, on the chest, back, and shoulders of the weaving group flower five-clawed dragon, waist circumference line dragon five, fold accumulation of front and rear group dragons each nine, dress is dragon two, line dragon four; Two dragons with a collar, one dragon with upright sleeves; Colorful auspicious clouds all over the body, down the eight treasures of flat water, sea water river cliffs.

In addition to showing the exclusive position of the Son of Heaven, the dragon robe also metaphorically symbolizes the meaning of "unifying mountains and rivers" and "everything is peaceful". The costumes of civil and military officials have strict hierarchical differences, and the general official uniforms of civil and military officials in the Ming Dynasty are different according to the official rank, and the colors and patterns are different. The big official is red, medium green and green, and the small official is sandalwood and brownish-green. The flowers are also divided into sizes, and there are no patterns for small officials. The more obvious distinguishing signs are complements, birds and martial beasts, and one on the chest and one on the back.

Second, the cloud brocade pattern design caters to the love and needs of the royal family.

Yunjin is for the use of the royal family, therefore, the pattern design of Yunjin must cater to the love and needs of the royal family, its pattern layout is full and rich, the color and texture are gorgeous, and the gold is brilliant, constituting the unique style of Yunjin. The emperor's dragon robe and crown clothes, the queen concubine's phoenix clothes, the gorgeous crown and xia veil, the palace curtain, the horse coat cheongsam, the civil and military officials' supplementary clothes, the palace mattress and cushions and other royal tributes, the decorative patterns are almost "the picture must be intentional, the meaning must be auspicious".

Third, the cloud brocade pattern has also been integrated into the aesthetic preferences and tastes of the people.

Yun brocade comes from the creation of the common people, therefore, the pattern of Yun brocade is also cleverly integrated into the aesthetic preferences and tastes of the common people. Yunjin Artist's people's cognition of all things in the world, their yearning and expectation for a better life, have also been integrated into a variety of vivid patterns and ever-changing colors. For example, drawing a copper coin under the bat's mouth is called "blessing in front of you", and sprinkling a copper coin on the brocade is called "the future is like a brocade". Nanjing Yunjin can be said to be the culmination of traditional Chinese auspicious patterns.

On March 30, 2013, Nanjing Yunjin University was established in Suiyuan Campus of Nanjing Normal University, which marked that the "living fossil" of Chinese brocade craft has a special scientific research and skill inheritance talent training institution.

The predecessor of the Yunjin Museum in Nanjing, China is the "China Brocade Craft Exhibition Hall" and "China Brocade Village", which were established in 1982, and is the only professional museum of cloud brocade and national brocade in China.

Founded in 1957, Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute is the first arts and crafts research institute in New China, as the only professional research institution of Yunjin in China, it undertakes the historical responsibility of inheriting and protecting Yunjin. Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute is a professional institution for the research, development and production of Yunjin in China, and it is also the main unit of Nanjing Yunjin to declare the intangible cultural heritage of humanity to UNESCO. In 2009, Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute was approved by the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of the People's Republic of China as one of the first batch of enterprises using geographical indications, as well as a national demonstration base for the productive protection of intangible cultural heritage approved by the Ministry of Culture.

There are more than 200 front-line weavers in Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute, but most of them are ordinary weavers engaged in assembly line operation, and there are very few backbone forces to master the "core technology" of Yunjin. The brocade secrets of Nanjing Yunjin people are passed down from generation to generation by oral transmission.

The traditional apprenticeship ceremony of ancient Yunjin is divided into 6 links, which are to worship the ancestor, the apprentice to change his mouth, the master to admonish, the apprentice to promise, the precept ruler to add the body, and the master and apprentice to give gifts. According to the rules of the trade, the apprentice must first present the traditional "six rites of bunch" to the master - dried meat, celery, lotus seeds, red dates, longan, and red beans. The master's return gift is also 6 kinds, gold thread, multicolored silk thread, peacock feather, Italian craftsman's manuscript, green onion, celery.

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