One casual afternoon, the sun shines through the window lattice, and the colorful window panes color the light, highlighting the illuminated light and shadow on the floor tiles. An old-fashioned gramophone, a cup of fragrant coffee, and a woman in a cheongsam will naturally remind us of the golden age of cheongsam.

In that golden age, the cheongsam was an indispensable dress for every woman, but the traces of the cheongsam gradually drowned in the wheel of history, only in the occasional wedding banquet can be seen, the bride's clever smile and festive red slowly achieved a beautiful new life belonging to the cheongsam.

It is gold that always shines, and the beauty of the cheongsam will never be drowned. The bright yellow color and silk fabric are paired together, adding a luxurious temperament to this cheongsam, and the delicate handmade buckles are designed to fit the figure, highlighting the delicate femininity in the details.

When the designer skillfully combines these two elements, the cheongsam is rich in an intellectual beauty, which is the best embodiment of the "elegant" culture.

The charm of the cheongsam lies in its inclusiveness, it can be very luxurious, it can also be simple and simple, it can not only wear a light luxury royal sister fan, but also can stand up to the literary and artistic freshness. Cotton and linen middle-sleeved cheongsam, fresh and natural grass green, delicate sense of disc buckle between collars, literary young women walked.

It is said that the beauty of the moon before the flower, in fact, it still depends on who is facing, the beauty does not need to be decorated with a ring, the smear of vulgar powder, only the face reflected by the soft moonlight, and the graceful figure wrapped in a slim dress is the most beautiful silhouette under the moonlit night.

It is said that women are like water, not only because of the softness of women, but also because of the Luo Shen in Cao Zhi's pen, whenever I think of her slim and jade standing in the smoke waves, ethereal and pure temperament, wearing a blue dress and delicate like water, Ying Ying smiled and achieved the eternal swan song.

The cheongsam is like a rose to a woman to love, it is an appropriate reflection, the cheongsam decorates the woman, and the woman injects a steady stream of vitality into the cheongsam. When the delicate embroidery is embroidered on the jacquard silk, the small buckle plays the music of the ancient rhyme.

The cheongsam is like a poem, hazy from a distance and exquisite from a distance, it is a graceful figure engraved in Zhang Ailing's words, which reflects the tenderness of oriental women in a restrained and subtle way. An elegant stand collar with hand-beaded beads around the neck and a slit hem that allows you to follow with a light stride.

The cheongsam is a woman's fluttering emotions, which are always gently revealed inadvertently. Women who love beauty are showing their exquisite curves, although the Eastern and Western cultures are very different, but there is a common place in aesthetics, the cheongsam combines Western aesthetics with traditional culture to create itself, but has won the unanimous recognition of Eastern and Western women.

Oriental women are subtle, restrained, and unassuming, and the cheongsam deeply captures this characteristic.

It does not engage in alternatives, does not win with nudity, but adopts a design that tends to be tight, fully exposing the charming lines of the woman's body, which not only releases the aesthetic temptation, but also performs subtle and low-key, without reducing the elegance and solemnity of the Oriental woman.

The cheongsam is like a woman's smart emotions, always inadvertently gently revealing the charm and elegance of wanting to talk and resting, and it is a woman's favorite that will never wither.

The cheongsam is irresistible to the temptation of women, they all know the beauty of the cheongsam, and they all know that the cheongsam can release itself to the maximum, so they chose the cheongsam.

Because of the cheongsam, the flamboyant woman becomes virtuous, the virtuous woman becomes elegant, and the elegant woman is more amorous, because of the embellishment of the cheongsam, the city is full of warmth, this season is soaked in romance, and the woman's body is full of femininity.

Some people say that the cheongsam is a woman's flower that has come out of history, cold and fragrant, blooming in the years and floating in the dreams of countless people.

The oriental charm of the cheongsam temperament deeply contains the virtuous, elegant, gentle, and beautiful temperament and temperament of Chinese women, and is fully highlighted through the supple and delicate body lines of Chinese women.

The cheongsam quietly allows Chinese women to show their beautiful side, but it is subtle and restrained, revealing sexiness and temptation without any traces and without publicity.

Perhaps this in itself is the character and trait of a Chinese woman!

The cheongsam is familiar with the oriental charm and understands Chinese women, it has insight into all the beautiful ideas in the hearts of Chinese women, and knows how they want to express themselves.

And only Chinese women can deeply understand the charm and charm of the cheongsam, only they can perfectly interpret the beauty of the cheongsam, from this point of view, Oriental women and cheongsam are each other's confidants, they are a beautiful pair of jade pan orchid.

The tall and thin woman showed her grace, like an elegant white lotus; The petite woman wears it delicately, like a faint orchid; The older women still wear the charm, and the younger women wear the elegance, such as the cute short cheongsam looks brisk, and it is more capable and youthful!

The long cheongsam lotus moves lightly, swaying and affectionate. The cheongsam creates a woman's gentleness, affection, elegance, loveliness, and charm to the fullest, and shows its charm to the fullest.

The cheongsam in my impression always appears in March in Jiangnan, the woman in Jiangnan, wearing a silk cheongsam and holding an oil-paper umbrella, walking in the alley with white walls and bluestones......

If it is in the quiet afternoon, there is a charming incense in the study, the breeze is blowing, the courtyard is full of flying peach blossoms, the woman wearing a cheongsam walks from the pavilion in the courtyard to the study, and opens the Tang and Song poems bound in the line......

Leisurely out of a hundred years of vicissitudes, noble and refined splendid gorgeous turn, will once confuse the worldly dust of the world

Shake off the wardrobe of history......

This old-world Qiong flower

And so it withered

Or is it slowly opening up......

Simplifying the ups and downs of the carcass

Sit back and drown

Stood slim

If you walk up, it is more elegant and elegant

Even the hurried passers-by can't help but take a few more looks......

It seems to be resentful

Stretching out in that graceful and multifaceted way......

Suddenly, there was a soft sigh

The glitz of near-evil has passed

The Pure Flower of Near-Kindness may not be far away

Wearing a green coat, dyeing a tree is fragrant, and the moonlight on the two sleeves tells the peerless elegance.

Regarding the cheongsam, the deepest memory is the swaying and colorful women of the Republic of China, and the customs of old Shanghai that have never been lost. The cheongsam has a variety of colors and fabrics, ink, flowers, falling cherries, Ruolan, enchanting, etc., quiet long styles, gentle sleeves, and classical and exquisite handmade buttons.

Cheongsam is a kind of scenery, since there is a kind of pure and proud, gentle, introverted, in the days of the flower moon agarwood, always fantasize about returning to the ancients, stepping on the riverside of the willows, sighing behind the carved window lattice, and the cheongsam is also inadvertently alluded to this classical state of mind, but also often mediocre people disturb themselves, in the vast world, fall into a lonely heart, the elegant tone of the cheongsam makes me peaceful, calm, in the plain time of the clear flow.

A faint smile became eternal in an instant, and the graceful cheongsam figure, like the Jiangnan complex, was soft and enchanting in time...... Through a long time and space, looking for and seeking, your smile blooms like a flower, looking back, the gentleness of that moment, pouring the cup of the previous life, lost the lonely itinerary, and elegant the beauty of a thousand years.

The cheongsam leaves people with a wordless background, and everyone seems to know that wearing a cheongsam requires a slender and feminine figure, and there will be no flowing lines, and there will be no beautiful charm. I always feel that Oriental women should wear a cheongsam, but I feel that it is inappropriate, because not so many people can wear the style of cheongsam.

Wearing a cheongsam, what I encountered was a calm, what brought me was elegant leisure, it was like the heart of the autumn lotus, let the moonlight sprinkle on the hut, flowing in every dark corner, quiet in this silent moonlight, even thoughts and ideas seem redundant.

The cheongsam is a true work of art. Or I give it too serious, too restrained, too elegant, too precious elements, and I just think it's suitable for wearing in pictures and paintings, and for stage performances. Nowadays, walking in the crowd, I find that wearing a cheongsam will be out of place with the world, and the cheongsam is now destined to be a lonely landscape, this scenery is a little distant, some old, like a dusk that is about to fall, with the last touch of beauty.

It has always been believed that the cheongsam should be accompanied by the mountain flowing water guzheng, the light and low-turning pink fan, the plump and delicate woman, and the ancient thread-bound books overflowing with the fragrance of ink, mahogany seats and gurgling outside the window

Bamboo stream. I am mediocre, I don't have a crystal heart to brew the unique beauty and grace of Jiangnan, and I don't have a light body to wear that freshness. My mood is also not in line with the cheongsam, I can't let go of the red dust, I can't let go of the heart of complaining in the deep boudoir of the heavy building, and I can't pick up all the lights and can't sleep

Crossing the coquettish of the Tang Dynasty, along the path of the Pingping, the curtain rolls the west wind, who is chanting in the wind a drunken flower yin! Dark fragrance sleeves, you fill in the words with tranquility, drunk with the scenery of Jiangnan, like Jiangnan, but may not have the euphemistic and moving talent of Jiangnan, as well as the vulgar classical charm, just like the willows by the lake, in the past for a long time, the cheongsam accompanied by the apricot blossoms and fireworks in the south of the Yangtze River, romantic countless wind and snow. Regarding the impression of Jiangnan caused by the cheongsam, half of it has been soaked in the drizzle of Jiangnan; and the other half, all of them gave Jiang Nanchun the brightness.

In the misty and rainy moments, hold up an oil-paper umbrella to bring people back to the tender and tactful era, and remember the past like wine and songs......

An oil-paper umbrella, walking out of the alleys in the south of the Yangtze River, the people under the umbrella, or the woman with bright eyes and bright teeth, or the teacher in a long shirt, stand quietly in the rain, pondering, reverie or hesitating, so quiet, so elegant. The oil-paper umbrella uses bamboo as the skeleton and oilskin paper as the umbrella surface. The surface of the umbrella is painted in a variety of colors, depicting various patterns, including elegant green, delicate pink, dreamy purple and melancholy blue......

The love for oil-paper umbrellas stems from Dai Wangshu's famous hazy poem "Rain Alley". The evening rain is dashing, the alleys are deep, and an oil-paper umbrella silently hesitating on the wet bluestone slab path should be so lonely and sad.

Nowadays, I always wish I had an oil-paper umbrella, imitating the artistic conception of the poem and pacing alone in the long rainy alley, feeling the dripping raindrops along the umbrella, splashing the crisp sound of big beads and small beads falling on a jade plate.

Imagine yourself, it should be a young woman wearing a goose-yellow cheongsam under the umbrella, with a lilac-like melancholy, bright and pure eyes looking into the distance, listening to the loneliness of the rain on the umbrella surface, with the hope of pure love, and the corner of her mouth is faintly sad.

Lingering Tingting, more than enough, slowly disappearing in the corner of the deep alley surrounded by rain and smoke. Meditate, stop-and-go. Rain smoke drifted in the attics and alleys, and the surroundings were filled with a world of rain. Visitors have held up the oil paper umbrella, as if they have received the invitation of the feelings of the ancient town, and are willing to be a person under the umbrella, feeling the classical mood on the bluestone path, and the romance of the distance.

The oil paper umbrella is natural, fresh and pure, I selfishly think that it can only belong to the East, just like the Oriental woman, dignified and virtuous, elegant and moving, its soul hides demure and elegant. A smart oil-paper umbrella should walk in an ancient winding alley, where there are bluestone roads, where there are apricot blossoms and bamboo shadows, where there are small bridges and flowing water, and where there are mossy ancient ferries. The toes swept silently, the figure was as light as the wind, stepping on the softness of the dust and water, and Wan Ting stood in the south of the Yangtze River in the smoke and rain.

Scoop a whirlpool, can't paint the face of Jiangnan in a dream, hold an umbrella, can't wait on the shore of Xizi Lake, deep rain alley, smoke and rain, in my thin years, the woman without makeup is like

At a glance, the hidden smile precipitated into a memory, in my heart, in the text!

Holding up an oil-paper umbrella and cruising in the misty spring rain, do you feel the cherry blossoms mottled like a white horse passing through the gaps? Holding up an oil-paper umbrella and strolling through the autumn rain, can you remember the ethereal scenery you wish to move forward?

The oil-paper umbrella is full of dreams and charming. When the wind and rain wash the annual rings, when the years erode the marks, when a handful of oil paper umbrellas soaked in the fragrance of tung oil come hazy from the smoke and rain, the millennium wind and rain have endowed the oil paper umbrella with rich historical and cultural connotations, and precipitated the beauty of the oil paper umbrella.

When you have experienced the hustle and bustle of the world, the gorgeous Yanran, and returned to the plain countryside, can you still vaguely remember the delicacy like a flower?

If the mainstream of Chinese style is a stand-up collar, and maybe a hand-over collar, then how hot the neck should be in the summer! As a result, the little-known fashion of the Republic of China of "Waste Collar" was grandly launched. "Abolish collar", as the name suggests, is no collar, how can there be a trend of decent people in the Republic of China to abolish collars? Take a look at the fashion stories in this issue

For the impression of the costumes of the Republic of China, many people will definitely mention the element of "stand collar".

The story about the stand-up collar has been written before in "The Stand-Up Collar: Four Hundred Years of Clothing History Related to Women". Liling originated in the Ming Dynasty, whether it is self-development, or influenced by foreign culture, there are different opinions. In the early years, there was also a writing of "Huang Han" in an attempt to prove that the Liling came from the Mengyuan Dynasty, in order to prove that the Liling had barbarian blood and excluded it from the Han clothing system.

It is undeniable that the stand-up collar has had a great influence on later generations, and it is so large that it is almost the most prominent element of Chinese clothing.

The popularity of the stand-up collar in the costumes of the Republic of China was due to the fact that the stand-up collar spread from the necks of Han women to the banner men and men at the end of the Qing Dynasty, thus becoming a more common clothing element. The stand-up collar is not static, high and low, square and round, always changing. Therefore, the comparison charts of the so-called Ming Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty Republic of China ruling on the Internet obviously ignore these popular changes.

For example, in the late Qing Dynasty, women's clothing was wide, but the stand-up collar was very low. In the old photographs, the woman looks like she has stolen some kind of armor, but her neck is exposed, and she is so low that it is almost nothing.

For example, in the early years of the Republic of China, the collar became extremely high, and it could always be level with the tip of the nose, covering half of the face. But the clothes at that time were very thin, coupled with the fashionable hairstyle of the time, the whole person was top-heavy and full of a peculiar sense of conflict.

Nowadays, it is always difficult for businesses who regard the stand-up collar as Chinese-style to make the stand-up collar and placket perfect, mainly because of the craftsmanship of the façade of a piece of clothing, which is really difficult. I love watching merchants do stand-up collars, and I often joke that the difficulty of antique clothes is to sew a four-piece set on the bed.

But it's not the same with a stand-up collar and a placket, and the difficulty is proper. Therefore, you can often see a large number of car accident scenes, the collar is broken, the placket is crooked, and the button is twisted and blocked. In short, only we can't think of it, and there is no disaster scene that businesses can't do.

In addition, there is another reason, that is, modern people don't actually wear stand-up collars very much, feel uncomfortable, and are restrained. It is no wonder that so many so-called lapels made by merchants to cater to buyers who do not want stand-up collars are so popular. From "Ming Hanfu" to "Republic of China style".

After so much foreshadowing, it is time to grandly launch the Republic of China costumes without collars.

From the Republic of China jacket skirt to the Republic of China cheongsam, there are collarless styles, which were mostly called "waste collars" at that time.

In fact, in many records of the Republic of China, people do have some views on the collar, which is linked to the autonomy of the body, the right to health, and the social atmosphere.

After all, the most important thing for the Republic of China is to think about what should happen to this country and its people, and the short and long of clothing, Chinese and Western, and whether there are or not are very worthy of discussion, and the results of its discussion seem to be the easiest to show in front of the world.

Ordinary women have indeed realized a lot, they know that the collar of clothes has hindered the movement of the neck, and the high collar is even more not, so at that time their thinking was very positive, regardless of the high or low collar, all were abolished, and they generously advocated wearing collarless clothes. When the schoolgirls got the news, they immediately rushed to remove their collars, and they also published many articles in the newspapers and magazines about the abolition of collars, which advocated a change of scenery.

There are multiple styles of "waste collar", such as directly removing the stand-up collar part and leaving only a round collar, and there are also changing styles such as making a square collar.

However, it should be noted that the "discarded collar" is a redesign based on its collarless characteristics, rather than the practice of removing the collar directly. So we can see that the "discarded collar" collar is often larger than the collar itself.

Moreover, although the "abolition of collars" was mostly seen in the 1920s, some empirical evidence can still be seen in the 1930s, which shows that this trend has always existed. It was more common in the 20s, also because the clothing was more changeable at that time, and the collar design was more flexible, and many people would also count some other collar types with non-stand-up collar designs as "waste collars".

Although removing the "stand collar" is like tearing down the wall at the door, there is a feeling of sudden enlightenment, but at the same time there is a feeling of being at a loss. Therefore, although there is a lot of empirical evidence for the "abolition of collars", it has never become a climate.

The development of cheongsam, from the end of the Qing Dynasty to today, has gone through a hundred years of history. In the past 100 years, there has been a lot of evolution and change.

The cheongsam belongs to a type of robe, which was developed from the deep clothes of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (2700 years ago). The so-called deep clothes are the clothes worn by ancient Chinese people with tops and bottoms in one.

By the Qing Dynasty, robes became the main clothing. In particular, the robes worn by Manchu women are straight and stiff, ankle-length, and extremely cumbersome in decoration. The flag costume is wide and does not show the skin, and it is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people. Because the Manchus are also called flag people, they are called cheongsam. The cheongsam was born and institutionalized in Shengjing, and became one of the representatives of Chinese costume culture. The cheongsam culture gradually accumulated is the characteristic of Shengjing's urban culture.

As one of the most ethnic clothing and ornaments in China, the Manchu cheongsam is elegant and gorgeous, and it is also a kind of "dress" that can best show the beauty of oriental women.

In the early years of the Republic of China, women's clothing generally maintained the shape of a top and a skirt, similar to that of the Qing Dynasty.

The 20s was a period when Shanghai-style cheongsam gradually took shape. Cheongsam began to become popular, the cuffs gradually shrank, and the piping was not as wide as before.

In 1929, the government of the Republic of China identified the cheongsam (as well as the Chinese dress) as one of the national dresses. At that time, there were two women's dresses: one was a blue blouse and a black skirt, and the other was a cheongsam. Female students in the school mostly wear large placket tops, round bottoms, elbow-length mid-sleeved shirts, and silk skirts.

The 30s were the golden age of cheongsam. The Shanghai-style cheongsam is more Westernized in both cut and design, using chest and waist provinces, and the cheongsam becomes longer and tighter with a high slit, which is more in line with the ideal image of oriental women's exquisite, open and lively.

In the 40s, the beginning of the Anti-Japanese War disrupted people's pursuit of clothing in the 30s. Considering practical functions such as economy and ease of movement, the cheongsam was shortened to the middle of the calf and the height to the knee, and the sleeves were tended to be eliminated and the collar was reduced in summer. Simple, simple, and adaptable, thus becoming the unique style of the cheongsam in the 40s.

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the cheongsam entered its freezing period. However, the cheongsam is still favored overseas, and many upper-class figures and celebrities from China and abroad take the cheongsam as their favorite clothing, and many Chinese will wear the most representative ethnic cheongsam to participate in many important festivals.

Cheongsam has returned to people's field of vision in the form of film and television works, fashion shows, and beauty pageants. The basic features and elements of the cheongsam have gradually stabilized, and the styles and details have been updated and become more and more exquisite.

In the Republic of China and today, the cheongsam culture has gained new vitality. In addition to the cheongsam, which is still exclusive to women, the style tends to be simple, the color tone strives to be elegant, and the natural beauty of women is emphasized. In Shenyang, many families have masters of cheongsam cutting and production. The fine, flat stitches are barely visible. The novel and unique buckle, delicate piping, and decent gnawing feet are comfortable and decent.

In 1984, the cheongsam was designated by the State Council as the dress for female diplomats in China.

Since the Beijing Asian Games in 1990, the cheongsam has been used as the ceremonial clothing for the Olympic Games, international conferences and expos held in the mainland of the mainland.

On May 23, 2011, the handmade cheongsam process became one of the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage approved by the State Council

The cheongsam has appeared on the international stage as a unique symbol of the Chinese nation.

There are many theories about the origin of the cheongsam, some believe that the cheongsam is a direct development of the robes of the Qing Dynasty flag women, and some believe that the robes worn by Chinese women date back to the Zhou, Qin, Han, Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties, and will not be discussed here.

The placket of the cheongsam is divided into: round placket, single placket, double placket, straight placket, curved placket, square placket, pipa placket, oblique placket, medium and long placket, Ruyi placket, large round placket and double round placket.

The collar types of cheongsam are: low neck, phoenix collar, ingots collar, square collar, V-neck, round neck, drop collar and even standing collar.

Ingot collar? When wearing a cheongsam with an ingot's collar, you need to straighten your neck and raise your chin to show your dignified and elegant demeanor.

The Shanghai collar originated from the injury and is a more typical collar type, and now many cheongsams still use the Shanghai collar.

Plant ornaments are widely used in cheongsam patterns, and the common plant ornaments are the four gentlemen (plum orchid bamboo chrysanthemum), the three friends of the cold year, the eyebrows of the joy, the eternal green, the grape squirrel, the melon (pumpkin and butterfly), the group flower, the arabesque, the lotus pattern and so on.

Animal patterns have far-reaching meanings, and common symbols include happiness, well-being, auspiciousness, longevity and festivity. Different animal patterns and other patterns have richer meanings, such as the combination of squirrels and cranes, which means "pine cranes prolong their lives", and the combination of patterns and fish patterns, which means "more than festive".

The cheongsam decorated with landscape patterns is relatively rare and is a relatively unique pattern.

The cheongsam is decorated with a variety of patterns, such as Bogu patterns, religious texts, utensils patterns, character patterns and text patterns. The character pattern is usually based on historical figures and myths and legends, and the religious pattern is mostly expressed in the "Ruyi cloud pattern" and "eight treasure pattern".

In terms of structural fancy, disc buckles are generally divided into three types: straight buckles, pipa buckles and flower buckles.

The straight buckle, also known as the "straight buckle", is the simplest buckle.

The pipa buckle is derived from the Chinese knot and is widely used.

Flower buckles are purely decorative buttons, which can be divided into solid flower buckles and hollow flower buckles according to the structure

"Silk" is a treatment for the edges of clothing.

According to the sewing process, it is divided into dark thread edging and bright thread selving. According to the color division, it is divided into monochrome edging, two-color seicing and multi-color selanging.

The development of cheongsam, from the end of the Qing Dynasty to today, has gone through a hundred years of history. In the past 100 years, there has been a lot of evolution and change.

The cheongsam belongs to a type of robe, which was developed from the deep clothes of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (2700 years ago). The so-called deep clothes are the clothes worn by ancient Chinese people with tops and bottoms in one.

By the Qing Dynasty, robes became the main clothing. In particular, the robes worn by Manchu women are straight and stiff, ankle-length, and extremely cumbersome in decoration. The flag costume is wide and does not show the skin, and it is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people.

Because the Manchus are also called flag people, they are called cheongsam. The cheongsam was born and institutionalized in Shengjing, and became one of the representatives of Chinese costume culture. The cheongsam culture gradually accumulated is the characteristic of Shengjing's urban culture.

As one of the most ethnic clothing and ornaments in China, the Manchu cheongsam is elegant and gorgeous, and it is also a kind of "dress" that can best show the beauty of oriental women.

In the early years of the Republic of China, women's clothing generally maintained the shape of a top and a skirt, similar to that of the Qing Dynasty.

The 20s was a period when Shanghai-style cheongsam gradually took shape. Cheongsam began to become popular, the cuffs gradually shrank, and the piping was not as wide as before.

In 1929, the government of the Republic of China identified the cheongsam (as well as the Chinese dress) as one of the national dresses. At that time, there were two women's dresses: one was a blue blouse and a black skirt, and the other was a cheongsam. Female students in the school mostly wear large placket tops, round bottoms, elbow-length mid-sleeved shirts, and silk skirts.

The 30s were the golden age of cheongsam. The Shanghai-style cheongsam is more Westernized in both cut and design, using chest and waist provinces, and the cheongsam becomes longer and tighter with a high slit, which is more in line with the ideal image of oriental women's exquisite, open and lively.

In the 40s, the beginning of the Anti-Japanese War disrupted people's pursuit of clothing in the 30s. Considering practical functions such as economy and ease of movement, the cheongsam was shortened to the middle of the calf and the height to the knee, and the sleeves were tended to be eliminated and the collar was reduced in summer. Simple, simple, and adaptable, thus becoming the unique style of the cheongsam in the 40s.

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the cheongsam entered its freezing period. However, the cheongsam is still favored overseas, and many upper-class figures and celebrities from China and abroad take the cheongsam as their favorite clothing, and many Chinese will wear the most representative ethnic cheongsam to participate in many important festivals.

Cheongsam has returned to people's field of vision in the form of film and television works, fashion shows, and beauty pageants. The basic features and elements of the cheongsam have gradually stabilized, and the styles and details have been updated and become more and more exquisite.

In the Republic of China and today, the cheongsam culture has gained new vitality. In addition to the cheongsam, which is still exclusive to women, the style tends to be simple, the color tone strives to be elegant, and the natural beauty of women is emphasized. In Shenyang, many families have masters of cheongsam cutting and production. The fine, flat stitches are barely visible. The novel and unique buckle, delicate piping, and decent gnawing feet are comfortable and decent.

Speaking of "Chinese style", I can't help but think of the close-up of the buckle shot on the cheongsam. The disc buckle, also known as the flower buckle, is a decorative element that cannot be ignored on cheongsam and Chinese clothing, how many different styles are there? How was it designed? How would people have used them together?

When it comes to cheongsam or Chinese clothing, many people actually come into contact with one of the elements first, that is, the "flower button". Nowadays, we can find traces of "flower buckles" in many Chinese style related designs.

Flower buckle or word buckle, the basic way is mostly to coil and knot a variety of cloth strips, for the ductility of the cloth strip to cut the oblique silk cloth at 45 °, and because of the popularity of the times and the characteristics of various flower buckles, or will use sizing, cotton thread, copper wire and other processes.

The so-called "Pan Xiang Buckle" is the simplest of the flower buckles, and it is also the most basic of all kinds of changes, and it can be known from the name that it is like a mosquito coil, so it uses the simplest strips of fine cloth to coil in a spiral shape.

The incense buckle can be used separately or in two, such as two juxtaposed of the same size, or one large and one small such as a gourd.

In addition, the cloth strip of the incense buckle itself can also be used color-matching or floral cloth, and the color on the cheongsam itself can be used to match the design.

As the basic type of change, the focus of the "Pan Xiang Buckle" is to be evenly wound, tight and delicate. Although it is common to imitate the buckle of the Republic of China, in addition to the problem of the process itself, most of it is abrupt because the size is too large.

The panxiang buckle changes slightly when it is coiled around the outermost ring, and three small sharp tips are pinched, just like a longevity peach with leaves. Although it is almost exactly the same as the panxiang buckle, it immediately looks cute because of the extra small spikes.

If you look closely, the pinching method of the small pointed tips is slightly different, but the flower buckle as a whole is much smaller than the silk of the cheongsam, so you can imagine how this low-key ingenuity is laborious.

In addition, a simple floral style can also be changed through similar methods, and many flowers are designed with the fabric pattern of the cheongsam itself.

The base of the coil is changed from a circle to an elliptical with sharp corners, which is a flower buckle in the shape of a blade.

The outer ring of the panxiang buckle is coiled square, in fact, it is to pinch the four sharp corners, and the fashionable abstract geometric pattern fabric during the Republic of China also complements each other.

Panxiang buckles appeared very early, and they were also very common in some clothing from the late Qing Dynasty to the late Qing Dynasty.

It can be said that as long as the ingenuity is enough, the deformation of the panxiang buckle is endless, and because of its own simplicity and exquisiteness, it is the most intriguing flower buckle on the antique cheongsam.

We are more familiar with another kind of "inlaid hard flower buckle", which is generally made of sizing cloth clip copper wire into a flat cloth strip, which has the advantage of being conducive to various shapes and a prominent three-dimensional effect.

Because of the characteristics of "inlaid hard flower buckles", it is possible to create a variety of line-based shapes, from small flowers to large combinations, and the decoration is outstanding.

Just like the variation of the panxiang buckle, the inlaid hard flower buckle also has a multi-color design that matches the cheongsam itself.

Because the pattern of the inlaid hard buckle is generally more complex, in addition to the common axisymmetric shape, there is also a symmetrical center, so that the design of the buckle is more free and flexible.

There is a more sumptuous combination among the flower buckles, which is the "three-flower button", which is commonly found on double-placket clothing. The three-flower buckle can be any style of flower buckle, but the use of inlaid hard flower buckles, combined with the flower buckles on both sides of the placket, is visually extremely complex and beautiful.

However, not all plackets have three-flower buckles, and there are also ordinary buckle or no buckle designs due to design needs.

The inlaid hard flower buckle can already be seen in the old photos of the late Qing Dynasty.

This method of creating a double buckle effect with a pattern is not uncommon, but it is also very interesting.

If the inscribed hardbuckle is regarded as the hook edge of the painting, then the coring buckle is colored. Therefore, the coring buckle is generally made of fabric filled with cotton in the closed outline of the inlaid hard buckle pattern, and is often decorated with fabric different from the color of the buckle. Therefore, the inlaid hard buckle is also called the hollow core buckle, and the coring buckle is also called the core buckle.

In addition to using different colors and multiple colors, you can also fill in some outlines and leave others unfilled, creating a virtual and real effect, and creating a visual center of gravity in a small flower buckle.

The above can be regarded as the basic process means of point (panxiang buckle), line (inlaid wire hard flower buckle), surface (core filling buckle), so that the flower buckle can basically do most of the stick figure figures that can be imagined.

In terms of the matching of clothes, the larger the decorative buttons (such as inlaid hard buckles and coring buckles), the more prominent they will be on the collar and placket, while the body should choose a word buckle or panxiang buckle with better practicality and durability.

Some are a simple combination, that is, the collar and placket use the "full version", while the bodice uses a simplified version.

In some eras, the flower buckles of cheongsam are already mainly decorative, and there are also unbuttoned ones.

And the flower buckle does not always exist in some symmetrical form, and asymmetrical flower buckles are not uncommon.

The asymmetrical flower buckle can be made into more shapes, which is common in contemporary cheongsam, and some of the flowers are so large that they almost serve as the design of the body.

Although the flower buckle is an element that cannot be ignored in Chinese clothing, it is not necessary, and the existence of a word buckle, a hidden buckle and so on cannot be ignored. Moreover, although the flower buckle is very labor-intensive, it is not the more advanced the Chinese clothing, the more necessary it is, at least if your button is made of precious jade, it is enough to kill the cost of labor.

Personally, whether it is a cheongsam or a Chinese costume, the matching between the flower buckle and the clothing fabric and clothing design is more important.

The faint fragrance of cheongsam, the strong Chinese beauty interprets the charm and style of the cheongsam, and the cheongsam completes the grace and elegance of the woman.

There is no kind of clothing like the cheongsam, which skillfully sets off the beauty of women's curves, and there is no woman who can wear the cheongsam so charming, smart and dignified like an oriental woman.

The cheongsam is a historical mark of a period, the national uniform of the Republic of China, and the most common form of wearing in people's lives. The twenties of the twentieth century are regarded as the starting point of the popularity of cheongsam, which flourished in the thirties and forties, and the cheongsam reached its peak in the thirties.

The cheongsam originated from the robe of the flag people, and Beijing is the place where the flag people live the most, so until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the cheongsam belonged to the Beijing culture. The robes of the flag people in the Qing Dynasty included men's robes and women's robes, but since the cheongsam is women's clothing, it can also be said that the cheongsam originated from the robe of the flag woman.

The appearance characteristics of modern cheongsam generally require all or part of the following characteristics: open or semi-open placket form of right placket, stand-up collar button, swing side slit, monolithic fabric, waist cinching, sleeveless or short sleeves, etc. The slit is just one of the many features of the cheongsam, it is not the only one, and it is not necessary. The cheongsam style is characterized by absorbing Western art, which is new, flexible and diverse, and has a strong commercial atmosphere; It has an official style and appears reserved and concise.

There are various styles of cheongsam, and there are various classification methods, such as fabric classification, process classification, style classification, seasonal classification, etc., this issue of Xiaobian recommends to you the cheongsam process classification.

According to the classification of plackets, there are usually seven types, including single placket, double placket, straight placket, oblique placket, pipa placket, curved placket, and no placket. Although the overall cut of the cheongsam has not changed much, the placket shape is also exquisite. The discussion of details can also affect the overall perception of women wearing cheongsam. Choose the right shape for your face and body shape, and you will generally not make a mistake when choosing a cheongsam.

Round-placket cheongsam: The round-placket line is round and smooth, which is a very common placket direction of cheongsam, which is sleek and smooth. In line with the feminine graceful and quiet temperament. Women of all face shapes can easily control the cheongsam, and this type of placket does not pick the shape of the face.

Straight placket: The distinctive feature of the straight placket cheongsam is its sense of line. The long straight-placked cheongsam has a slimming effect and can elongate the female figure.

Placket: A placket style that is slashed diagonally from the neckline across the chest, giving it a classic charm when worn. In the past, plackets were usually fitted with large flower buttons, but now they are switched to thinner buttons. The current cheongsam design is mostly oblique placket style.

Square placket: The square placket is characterized by a square with a circle. I'm thinking that its design idea is probably also taken from the good as water. Sleek and angular, mild and aggressive.

The square placket is square and round, subtle and introverted, and full of changes, suitable for women with different face shapes. The placket is suitable for women with thin faces, and it can play a role in modifying the face line.

Pipa placket: The placket is only covered to the chest, not to the armpits. The most common application of the pipa placket appears in Qing court dramas, and the short horse coat is mostly a pipa placket.

Women with pointed faces and pointed chin are more suitable for this type of placket.

The double placket is more complicated than the single placket, and it is necessary to open the placket on both sides of the cheongsam first, and then sew one of the plackets together. This stitched placket is only used as a decoration, so the cheongsam wearing a double placket is the same as the single placket, but the cheongsam with a double placket is more beautiful and noble in terms of visual effect. More traditional and dignified. The style is on the old-fashioned side.

Of course, the effect of the placket on the shape of the face is obvious. Aunts who are not satisfied with their face shape can try a cheongsam with a double placket.

There are many types of collar classifications, and there are eight common styles. General collar, penguin collar, impatiens collar, collarless, drop collar, bamboo leaf collar, horseshoe collar, etc. Each collar type of cheongsam has its own characteristics and advantages. When choosing a cheongsam, the collar type can also be used as a reference factor, women with short necks are not suitable for choosing high collars, for women with long necks, there is no limit, and the range of choices is much wider.

According to the classification of cuffs, cheongsam sleeves can be roughly divided into sleeveless, shaved shoulders, short sleeves, seven-quarter sleeves, eight-quarter sleeves, long sleeves, narrow sleeves, bell sleeves, large bell sleeves, horseshoe sleeves, reverse folding sleeves, etc.

In the past, the type of sleeve of the cheongsam was mainly determined by the change of weather, but nowadays, women mainly wear cheongsam to banquets and other occasions, and the younger ones mostly choose the last three, while the older ones mostly choose long sleeves. Usually the long sleeves are 19 to 20 inches (63-67 cm), the middle sleeves are about 16 inches (53 cm), and the short sleeves are 10 inches (13 cm) long.

Buckle type classification: word buckle, phoenix buckle, pipa buckle, butterfly buckle, monochrome buckle, two-color buckle, etc.

Classified by pendulum type: wide pendulum, straight pendulum, A-line pendulum, dress pendulum, fishtail pendulum, short front and long back, zigzag pendulum, etc.

When I saw the cheongsam, I seemed to see the resentful eyes in the rainy alley, and I heard the mournful sound of the piano by the Shen Garden, and I smelled the fragrance of gardenias on the river beach of old Shanghai......