Chapter 100: Catch the Imp

The owner of the cloth shop asked Mrs. Shi what does this waidan have to do with catching that little ghost? Shitai looked at her sister and the cloth shop owner, and then motioned for them to go into another room with her.

In this room, the furnishings are extremely simple, but as soon as you enter, there is a strange fragrance wafting in, which makes the senior sister very strange, because this master has known her for so long, and she has never smelled this fragrance in this place, and this smell makes people feel refreshed.

Shitai pointed to a furnace in the middle of the room and said, "There used to be a pill here, but this was a long time ago, it turned out that many years ago there was an elderly Taoist who came to Hong Kong thousands of miles away, but there was no place to live at that time, so he temporarily stayed here for the night, this Taoist stayed in some places for 7749 days, and he was refining Dan in this house every day, and he never saw him eat. As for him, as if he had something important to do, he was in a hurry to refine this pill, and when it was refined, he was about to leave, and before leaving, he sent three pills to Shitai, saying that this pill could go to evil and avoid evil. All along, these three pills were placed in this house, and Mrs. Shi took out one and gave it to the owner of the cloth shop, she said: "You take one pill before tomorrow night, and then take the amulet card to the gambling racecourse, we will wait for you there, and at night, we will take that little ghost again." ”

The business of the cloth shop was still very open in Hong Kong at that time, many women liked to go there to choose cloth to make cheongsam or something, and some women would also come here to buy fabric to make suits for their husbands, it can be said that the whole Hong Kong because of this fashion has also been at the forefront of the Asian trend for a while.

This cloth shop is relying on clothing, and the clothing of the Chinese has always been developing, the Chinese have experienced too many changes in clothing, as early as thousands of years ago in China, clothes have not only been an appendage to the cold shelter, but an important symbol of the Chinese nation with highly developed humanistic ideas. In a sense, it is also a perceptual history of the development and change of human culture.

I have always thought that clothing is the unique labor results of human beings, but also the aesthetic achievements of human beings, which is not only the crystallization of material civilization, but also has the meaning of spiritual civilization. For thousands of years from the Three Emperors and Five Emperors to the Qing Dynasty, clothing as a cultural form ran through various periods of ancient China. From the evolution of clothing, we can see the changes in history, the development of the economy and the transformation of the aesthetic consciousness of Chinese culture. The costumes of Shang were "majestic and solemn", the costumes of Zhou were "gorgeous and natural", the Warring States was known for their "freshness", the Han Dynasty was "dignified" to spread, the Wei and Jin dynasties were "free and easy", the Tang Dynasty was "plump and gorgeous", the Song was "restrained and regular", the Yuan was "stout and bold", the Ming was "thick and beautiful", and the Qing was "delicate and simple", all of which reflected the aesthetic tendencies and ideological connotations of the ancient Chinese. With its own wisdom, the Chinese nation has created a gorgeous and colorful clothing culture, and has developed a unique and complete clothing system with the Chinese nation's own broad and profound.

Clothing and culture are inseparable carriers, the ancestors of the Chinese pursue the way of nature, clothing also reflects the psychological needs of a nation, in ancient times, the form of clothing in the East and the West is similar, at the beginning are leaves, turf skirts around the waist to cover shame. Later, the West gradually made clothes close to the body, so that Western clothing more and more reflects the beauty of the human body, strengthens gender, and highlights the lines of the human body; Oriental culture pays attention to the harmony between man and nature, and the subtle and hazy beauty in Oriental culture dominates, deliberately weakening the human body and covering up the human body in clothing. Maintain the loose, elegant, and free and easy style of oriental clothing. The pursuit is the texture, color and pattern of the fabric. The basic shape of Hanfu provides a standard for the oriental clothing world, and today the clothing of many ethnic groups around China and Southeast Asia has been influenced by Hanfu, especially the Korean hanbok and the Japanese kimono are directly developed from China's "Hanfu" and well-preserved cultural relics, but the Chinese have not inherited and developed such exquisite clothing as Hanfu, which is indeed a pity, which has a certain relationship with the evolution of the last dynasty of feudal society, the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China. Western clothing culture has parted ways for thousands of years. However, in the late Republic of China, there was also a cheongsam that reflected the beauty of the female body in China, which still has a bit of a different meaning, and this kind of cheongsam that makes the eyes of people all over the world brighten up has greatly changed the aesthetic of Chinese clothing.

The establishment of the ancient Chinese clothing system began in the Qin Dynasty, and there has long been a difference between "official clothes" and "civil clothes" and "dresses". The "dress" was worn at large events or diplomatic ceremonies, and this tradition had a profound impact on subsequent historical dynasties. Even today, with the rapid development of science and technology, this is also the case. Hanfu was the Chinese dress at that time, and the ancients in China were very particular, and there was a distinction between "tops and bottoms", and there were "tops and bottoms, wide clothes and belts", one for the sake of beauty; The second is that the wide sleeves are more stretched on the body. Of course, ordinary people still use casual clothes with short sleeves on weekdays, which is convenient for people's daily work and life, and is more concise and practical. Chinese clothing "tops and bottoms", skirts also, not trousers. As early as the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, women's clothing was dominated by "deep clothes". The "deep" here does not belong to the color, but the style, the deep coat is the top and bottom that were not connected to the top and bottom in the past, and then tie the belt, and the placket is wound with the body called "curved skirt", and later this kind of deep coat is also called "curved skirt deep coat". For another example, there is also a "hand over the right collar" in the Chinese Hanfu, both men and women are left and right, which is also the most important clothing feature of the Chinese; To this day, all our clothing retains this exquisiteness, which is the embodiment of cultural heritage in clothing. Because of the Chinese saying that "the left is yang, the right is yin", it embodies the idea of "yang multiplying yin", rather than yang being higher than yin. The women of the Qin and Han dynasties still wore deep clothes, but the number of layers of the placket was increased, and the width of the hem increased. The appearance of the belt finally made the Chinese clothing also reflect the hazy beauty of the body, the tie can play a role in buttoning and decoration, Liu Yong has a famous poem: "The belt gradually widens and never regrets, for Yi to make people haggard" here "belt" is the result of a change in the aesthetic orientation of the Chinese people. In ancient times, in addition to clothes, there was also "silk". Silk is pants, because it is often woven of fine silk, so it is called "纨绔", rich children wear more silk silk, only to have the name of "纨绔子", and now it has evolved into a derogatory term. In the past, Chinese often used clothes to explain a person's identity, such as "cloth clothes" refers to poor people, "white robes" refers to people who have not achieved meritorious fame, and "robes" generally refer to soldiers and soldiers. "Qingjin" is a clothing often worn by scholars in the Zhou Dynasty, and generally refers to people with knowledge. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the imperial examination era specifically referred to Xiucai. "Yellow clothes": yellow means noble, wearing yellow clothes means that you are in a noble position, so yellow clothes have become another name for the emperor, and the most well-known "women" refers to heroines, Tsing Yi: It is the clothing worn by people with low status in ancient times. Handmaidens also mostly wore green clothes, which were later used as a proxy name for handmaidens. "Ochre", russet. In ancient times, prisoners were dressed in ochre clothes, because they were called prisoners by Chu clothes. There are also many names for different people in clothing, which reflects the diversity of Chinese clothing culture.

After the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, women's clothing generally inherited the style of the Qin and Han dynasties, mainly undergarments, shirts, and skirts, and also took large-sleeved shirts as fashion, and the popular upper placket (cardigan) was popular, and the skirt was generally high in skirt waist, short in top, narrow in sleeves, and long in lower skirt. In the Sui and Tang dynasties, China went from war to economic and cultural prosperity, and the development of clothing appeared in both clothing materials and styles. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women's short skirts were all small sleeves, under the tight long skirt, the skirt waist was still high, usually above the waist, a bit like the current Hanbok, some even tied under the armpit and tied with ribbons, giving people a slender and pretty feeling. The skirts of the Middle Tang Dynasty were more open than those of the early Tang Dynasty, and there were no other changes. The clothing of women in the Sui and Tang dynasties was the most open and free, and the clothing of women in the Tang Dynasty was gorgeous and gorgeous. Due to the influence of foreign cultures, clothing is diversified, and women wear men's clothing; It is characterized by dew as beauty. It shows the graceful and generous aesthetic mentality of women in the Tang Dynasty, advocating martial arts and bravery, pursuing equality, and being open and bold. This aesthetic mentality reflects the aesthetic spirit and tolerant cultural mind of the Tang people from one side. There is a famous poem: "The clouds want to dress and the flowers want to look, and the spring breeze blows Revlon." If it weren't for the jade mountain, it would meet Yaotai under the moon. It illustrates the beauty of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty. The beautiful costumes of the court gradually spread to the people, such as: placket, pullover, lapel or collarless style, half-sleeved and exposed arms, and exposed breasts to become fashionable. During this period, there were a variety of costumes. Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty was mainly shirts, skirts and drapes; The veil is a long scarf draped over the shoulders. There is also a special short-sleeved half-arm shirt, which is worn over the long shirt, and we have seen this kind of character image in Tang Sancai.

Since the Song and Ming dynasties, due to the dominance of Zhu Chenglixue, the grading of clothing has been relatively strict, and the clothing of aristocratic women has specific regulations, from the queen, the imperial concubine to the wife, there are crowns and clothes. "Phoenix crown xiaxia" is a women's dress with social status in the Ming Dynasty, and it is the costume used by the concubine when participating in important ceremonies such as memorials. The entire crown is decorated with dragons and phoenixes, and they are worn with a xia veil. In the Ming Dynasty, women's daily clothing was dominated by shirts, skirts, jackets, gowns, and armor. The gown is more popular, and the straight collar, placket, and small sleeves are the clothes of the common people. In addition, a kind of placket, sleeveless, left and right sides of the slit of the blouse "bijia", after the Song and Yuan dynasties, became popular, and in the Ming Dynasty became women's daily clothing. From the formal point of view, this kind of armor has a relationship with the half-arm of the Sui and Tang dynasties, and the Qing Dynasty horse armor also developed from this.

The Qing Dynasty is the era that has changed the most in the history of clothing in China, with thousands of years of ancient clothing culture, reached its peak in the Qing Dynasty, whether it is weaving technology, or dyeing technology is famous all over the world, exported to many countries in the world. The Qing Dynasty was an era of Manchu and Han cultures, especially after the Manchus entered the Central Plains, the clothing culture still retained most of the Han Dynasty's clothing habits at the beginning. Later, the people began to imitate the costumes of the people in the palace, and the Qianlong Dynasty formulated a detailed crown and clothing system, and illustrated it. The Qing Dynasty's royal relatives and nobles, non-commissioned officers and ordinary people's clothing has distinctive characteristics, the level gap is very large, the Manchurian men's clothing is mainly robes and horse coats, and the sleeves are horseshoe-shaped, which is the most specific embodiment of the Jurchens' "advocating the spirit of dogs and horses" in the Manchu costumes. The shape of the robe is simple, the collar is straight, the placket is large, the front and back of the body have seams, the hem has two slit, four slits and no slit are more convenient for horseback hunting. In order to facilitate riding and shooting, the royal family and nobles wore robes with slits on all sides, that is, there were slits on the front and back of the clothes and the left and right sides of the clothes, while the commoners wore non-slit robes with slits on the left and right sides or "one wrap round". Manchu women usually wear long robes, which can cover their feet, the right side is oblique, the cuffs are flat and large, the sleeve ends, the placket, the skirt is inlaid with colored edges, the collar is high and low, and the collar is wrapped around the collar with a scarf; Used to protect the neck, the cheongsam they wore was wide and straight in the early days, and later became a waist, with a "shoulder" on the outside of the cheongsam. Since the Manchurians do not bind their feet, their flowerpot-style high-soled shoes need to walk smoothly and slightly swaying, which mainly highlights the dignified and free and easy of Manchurian women.

The period of the Republic of China is a watershed in Chinese clothing from ancient times to modern times, and all former Qing official uniforms and robes, supplementary clothes, feathered crowns, and court beads were abolished. Of course, there is also a gradual evolution process, and men's long-distance running gowns gradually become tunics and suits. The women's wide-waisted and wide-sleeved cheongsam gradually evolved into a corset cheongsam, which further highlighted the beauty of women's figures, and finally became a clothing style representing the elegance of Chinese women. During the Republican period, the political propositions and requirements of the times would find their imaginary shadows in the clothing, such as the "Zhongshan suit", which was designed for revolutionaries by combining the characteristics of suits and traditional Chinese horse coats. The initial style of the tunic is 9 buttons on the front body, the back body through the back seam, the stand collar, and the front body has 4 open pockets. Although it is not as chic as a suit, it is simple, solemn, generous, and can be processed with domestic fabrics, so as soon as it came out, it rose among young students and gradually extended to ordinary adult men. In 1929, the Nationalist Government issued a general order to define the tunic as a formal dress, modify the shape of the tunic suit, and give it the meaning of "revolutionary": the four pockets of the predecessor were determined, according to the four dimensions of the founding of the country (courtesy, righteousness, honesty, and shame); The cover of the bag is in the shape of an inverted pen frame, which means "governing the country with literature"; The predecessor changed to five buttons in accordance with the principle of separation of powers (executive, legislative, judicial, examination, and supervision) of the national government; The cuffs are set as three buttons in accordance with the principle of "Three People's Principles", and the standing collar is changed to a closed lapel, showing the concept of "three provinces and my body, strict governance". Since then, the tunic has not only become the official uniform of government officials, but also a symbol of the pursuit of fashion by ordinary youth. It's a pity that the tunic has not been maintained, and if someone walks around the street in a tunic now, they will definitely be considered to be the actors of that crew.

In the late Republic of China, most people were still wearing robes and horse coats, for example, we saw that in Lao She's "Teahouse", people's costumes were about the same, which were inextricably linked with the costumes of the Qing Dynasty. During this period, the mainstream social wear was: generally businessmen wore suits, intellectuals wore long gowns, government officials wore tunics, and women's clothing was cheongsam and upper and lower skirts were the most popular. In the folk, men mainly wear Tang costumes with plackets, and women will mainly wear clothes with plackets and buttons under the armpits.

After the founding of the People's Republic of China, restricted by the level of economic development, the consumption of clothing during this period was very simple and monotonous. It is roughly "Lenin suit in the 50s, tunic suit in the 60s, and labor suit in the 70s", and each period is slightly different. In the 50s, gray-blue "cadre uniforms" were popular among men, and women wore "Lenin suits" as fashionable, while both men and women wore the same cloth shoes and were beautiful in simplicity. During the period of Sino-Soviet friendship, Soviet floral cloth began to make life colorful and colorful, and clothing began to decorate itself again." Influenced by Soviet female experts, many Chinese women also wore "Bragi" for a time. In the 60s, due to the "resistance to bourgeois ideas", the wearing of suits and long shirts was almost extinct, and high heels disappeared. Cloth shoes with raw soles are popular to show "simplicity because of ugliness, hard and simple". It is not difficult to find that the vigorous promotion and praise of simplicity has caused people's thoughts and feelings to really begin to regard simplicity as beauty, even if it is an "aesthetic" recognized by the whole society. However, after the beginning of the "Cultural Revolution", clothing became more and more boring due to the generalization of the "revolutionary" spirit. During the "Cultural Revolution", "green, blue, and gray" colors became the main colors of people's clothing, and military uniforms became fashionable; The style is an old-fashioned tunic, with a straight neckline; The fabric is cotton of one water. Under the guidance of the clothing ideology of "don't love red makeup and love arms", the whole country fashioned green military uniforms and red armbands, which was the darkest era of Chinese clothing.

After the reform and opening up, the thinking and concepts of the Chinese people have gradually changed. In terms of clothing consumption, more and more people from top to bottom have begun to realize that the pursuit of beauty is by no means the preserve of the bourgeoisie. Everyone in society is the creator of a better life, and has every right to dress up and enjoy beauty. Even the relevant leaders of the central government have personally come out to correct the name of dressing, and the clothing industry and thinking should be emancipated. It is necessary to advocate the diversification of clothing and raise people's clothing to the height of the level of civilization to understand, "the level of clothing reflects the level of wealth and spiritual civilization of a nation and a country, and beautifying life should start from beautifying clothing." At the same time, party and state leaders took the lead in wearing long-lost suits. The central leading comrades advocated beautifying clothing and took the lead in wearing Western clothes, which embodied the changes of the times in a concentrated way. However, there seems to be the same in the differences, that is, the dress of the people, which is also closely related to the thoughts of political decision-makers, among which wearing a suit, in a sense, is obviously a symbol of opening up to the outside world and learning from the West, and contains a certain social significance of reform and opening up; In fact, this is another manifestation of the influence of political ethics on clothing, that is, the open dress brought about by enlightened politics. The era of talking about beauty and perversion is over. With the increasing normality of the country's political life and the change of people's concept of dressing, the clothing consumption of Chinese people generally shows a trend of personalized, ready-to-wear and high-end clothing consumption. It matches the reputation of China as a cultural powerhouse.

The costumes of any nation have their own set of systems and inheritances, which are inextricably linked with culture, politics and economy. Clothing always reminds people to pay attention to their image and manners, people no matter how people can not do without clothes to cover their bodies, the study of this cultural change, will make us understand that only the cultural gene is the most obvious characteristic of clothing culture. And as our economy booms, our clothes will definitely be more colorful.

As the owner of the cloth shop, he naturally knows the evolution of this clothing, and he also has his own unique opinions, but the problem now is that in the past few months, not only have the bets been lost, but even the business of this cloth has become worse and worse, it seems that this little ghost has a really big impact on the cloth shop owner, thinking of this, the cloth shop owner touched the pill in his breast pocket with his hand, and thought, I can only rely on Shi Tai to subdue this little ghost, so that my business can flourish again.

(To be continued)