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Various ancient Chinese fabrics and embroidery (finishing)

1. All kinds of fabrics

1. Hemp

Fiber obtained from various hemp plants.

Bast fiber crops mainly include: ramie, jute, green hemp, hemp, flax, rob hemp and hibiscus.

There are coarse linen clothes and fine linen clothes.

2. Silk

One of the silk fabrics, silk fabrics are plain weaves, light and thin texture, tough and crisp and flat, and the common ones are Tianxiang silk, sieve silk, etc. Its satin flowers are easy to fluff and should not be washed more.

Silk ground (silk bottom of calligraphy and painting);

silk (a book with a silk base);

Silk (the yarn processed by silk through combing, drafting, twisting and other spinning processes similar to cotton yarn, defined as silk staple fiber in the modern textile industry), the fabric woven from silk is also called silk.

3, Luo

Wholly or partially made of silk fabrics made of rib tissue made of warp filaments intertwined with each other to form pepper holes.

There are Zhiluo, Hengluo, Hualuo, and Suluo.

Luo Qi (Luo and Qi are both silk fabrics, here refers to people who are dressed in noble and gorgeous clothes);

Luo Ji (silk quilt);

Luo shirt (silk clothes worn by the ancients in summer, the material is soft and light);

Luo scarf (silk hand towel);

Ropa (silk square scarf);

Luo Yi (clothes made of light and soft silk fabrics);

Luo Su (generally refers to fine silk fabrics);

Gro belt (silk garment belt).

3, Aya

Thin, patterned silk fabric, one side shiny, like satin.

It is a silk fabric with twill flowers on the twill, which is developed on the basis of Qi.

It was produced before the Han Dynasty and flourished in the Tang and Song dynasties.

The silk is smooth and soft, and the texture is light and thin, and it is used for painting and calligraphy mounting, making zuò underwear, etc. Officials in the Tang Dynasty used silk as their official uniform.

The Tang Dynasty Zhejiang was the most famous. In the Song Dynasty, on the basis of the Tang Dynasty, the names of dog hooves, persimmon pedicles, miscellaneous flower plate carvings and Tao Shui Waves were added, and silk began to be used for mounting calligraphy and painting, and the output gradually decreased in the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.

4. Brocade:

Brocade is a colorful fabric woven with colored silk threads with heavy tissue, which is the most complex structure and the most abundant change in silk fabrics. Brocade began in the Western Zhou Dynasty, and before the Tang Dynasty, it mainly used warp brocade with warp threads.

Due to the influence of the textile culture of the Western Regions, the brocade of the Wei and Tang dynasties began to use colored weft threads to weave patterns, called weft brocade. Since the Middle and Tang Dynasty, the weft flower has become the mainstream of silk jacquard fabrics, because it can be woven in rotation with many weft shuttles of different colors, thus enriching the color of the brocade pattern.

Compared to Ayara, Nishiki is relatively thick. Therefore, in the hot summer, brocade is generally not worn.

4-1: Shu brocade of the four famous brocades

Shu brocade is mostly woven with dyed cooked silk threads, with bright colors and tough textures. Featuring warp stripes and stripes of color.

In the early days, it was mainly based on multiple warp silk flowering (warp brocade), and after the Tang Dynasty, the varieties became more and more abundant, and most of the patterns were group flowers, tortoise shells, lattices, lotus, birds, beasts, and phoenixes. After the Qing Dynasty, Shu brocade was influenced by the Jiangnan brocade, and produced varieties such as Yuehua brocade, rain silk brocade, square brocade, Huanhua brocade, etc., among which the rain silk and Yuehua with color halo color stripes are the most distinctive.

4-2: Song Jin of the Four Famous Brocades

Song brocade has two meanings: one refers to the brocade produced by the official brocade in the Song Dynasty; The second is to indicate that the Song style brocade produced by the Suzhou Weaving House in the Qing Dynasty.

The main varieties are large brocade, box brocade and small brocade:

(1) Dajin, also known as "heavy brocade", is characterized by a tight and rich texture, exquisite structure, distinct flowers and grounds, and excellent color rendering.

The pattern pattern is mainly antique pattern, there are Fengdeng brocade, a halo brocade, the world music halo brocade (i.e., lantern pattern brocade), Baoxiang brocade, Baozhao brocade, yellow lion brocade, plant flower brocade, such as: fairy brocade (lychee), peony, lotus, hibiscus, chrysanthemum, iron terrier, plum, orchid, bamboo and other floral patterns of eight flower brocade, sixteen flower brocade, twenty-four flower brocade, "eight treasures" brocade (ancient money, Fang Sheng, calligraphy, painting, piano, chess, etc.), "auspicious clouds", "Ruicao" brocade, etc., mainly used for clothing fabrics and precious calligraphy and painting framing.

(2) box brocade: is a kind of mulberry silk and a small amount of cotton yarn with satin weave for color interweaving jacquard brocade, the texture is light and thin, clean and loose, the pattern is mostly combined with the box style, the pattern is neat and formal, and the pattern is mostly symmetrical and continuous horizontal strips. The subject matter is mainly animals (such as lions, swimming dragons, cloud geese, luan magpies, xiangfeng, etc.), with the theme, eight flower brocade, sixteen flower brocade and embellished with "eight treasures", "auspicious clouds", "seocho" and so on are mainly used for general calligraphy and painting mounting, decoration or clothing.

(3) Small brocade (also known as fine brocade): there are two kinds of vegetarian and flower, and the pattern is small.

The pattern is mainly geometric pattern and symmetrical small pattern, and most of the patterns adopt auspicious and wishful realism, such as eight treasures (ancient money, Fang Sheng, calligraphy, painting, piano, chess, etc.), eight immortals (sword, fan, gourd, tangled branches, cypress branches, flutes, lotus, etc.), eight auspicious (treasure pot, □□, double fish, conch, flower umbrella, hundred knots, lotus, etc.) and the word "longevity", "ten thousand (swastika)" word brocade, etc., mainly used as temple Buddha flags, book and album covers, as well as handicraft gift box decoration, can also be cocoa clothing fabrics. Cloud goose fine brocade, emerald hair fine brocade (with peacock feather thread to weave the pattern), cluster four plates carved fine brocade.

4-3: The Four Famous Brocades (Nanjing Yunjin)

The Song Dynasty set up a government-run weaving office in Nanjing, the Brocade Department, and began to weave brocade. It is named after the luxury, colorful and splendid, and the transformation is like clouds.

There are mainly "makeup flowers", "weaving gold" and "gold treasure land" and so on:

Makeup brocade color changes are abundant, a fabric on the pattern color matching up to more than 10 kinds, up to 20 ~ 30 kinds, the layout of the pattern is rigorous and solemn, concise and general.

The patterns of the brocade are all woven with gold or silver threads, or gold and silver threads.

The patterns of Jinbao brocade are all woven all over the ground with gold wire, and then the colorful and golden patterns are woven on the gold ground.

In general, the pattern layout of Yunjin is rigorous and solemn, the change is summarized strongly, the color is strong and the contrast is also strong, and it is often hooked with a piece of gold, white and color halo transition, the pattern has a strong and simple traditional style, the color is gorgeous, unique.

The subject matter of the pattern is extensive, there are both large entwined flowers, and various animals (such as dragons and phoenixes, cranes, lions, etc.) and plants (such as treasure flowers, lotus, bergamot, pomegranate, plum, orchid, bamboo, chrysanthemum, etc.), as well as the auspicious "eight treasures", "dark eight immortals", "auspicious", "longevity" word, "swastika" word, Ruicao and various postures of the change of cloud potential (such as Qiqiao cloud, Ruyi cloud, Hehe cloud, leaf cloud, line cloud, lying cloud, large and small hook cloud, etc.), lifelike, such as seeing the true scene, In particular, the technique used in the pattern is more subtle and exquisite, which can fully reflect the echo of the guest and the host, and the pattern is clearly layered, the flower is clear and white, and the brocade is even.

In terms of color matching, the technique of color halo and harmony is used to make the pattern color beautiful and moving. In ancient times, Yunjin was mainly used to sew dragon robes, decorate palaces and temples, as well as sacred robes, sacrificial mats, curtains, etc.

Yunjin brocade was very popular in the Ming and Qing dynasties, specially woven for the court, and mainly used as a "royal offering" for court costumes and rewards. It was only after the late Qing Dynasty that it spread to the people.

4-4: The magnificent brocade of the four famous brocades

That is, Guangxi brocade.

Produced in the Song Dynasty, the Zhuang people are called the Zhuang, so the Zhuang brocade is also known as the Tuo brocade. Cotton yarn strands or linen yarn strands are used as warp and mulberry silk as weft. Guangxi in the Han Dynasty already had brocade weaving skills. During the Tang Dynasty, a variety of fabrics woven by the Zhuang people were listed as tribute. But the textiles that can really be called "brocade" appeared in the Song Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, the cloth called "white matter square pattern, beautiful and heavy" was the early Zhuang brocade.

The pattern of the brocade is close to the paper-cut pattern, and the changes are varied. The traditional pattern pattern has flowers, birds, fish, insects, beasts and "10,000" words, "double happiness" and other text patterns, the lines are thick and powerful, the colors are gorgeous, and the silk threads of several different colors are commonly used to weave, the colors are mainly red, green, black and yellow, generally with red as the background, colorful, gorgeous and colorful, the contrast is strong, and it has a strong and rough artistic style.

5. Bamboo silk

It is carefully woven from high-quality bamboo silk. The color is tender yellow, thin and translucent, soft and delicate, thin as cicada wings.

The patterns of bamboo silk or landscape figures, or flowers, birds, insects and fish, are all subtle, exquisite, exquisite.

6. Clamping

The silk is sandwiched between two hollow flower plates, and the tight clamp of the pattern plate is used to prevent dyeing, and the flower plate is unraveled, and the pattern is revealed.

It began in the Tang Dynasty and was prevalent in the Tang and Song dynasties, and was still used in the Ming and Qing dynasties, mostly in Zhejiang and Tibet.

7. Twisted Valerian (that is, tie-dye)

Tie the fabric with a thread or the fabric itself and then dye it, unknot it into a pattern, and the pattern has a halo effect.

Twisted valerian, also known as tie-dyeing, appeared in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, was extremely prosperous in the Tang and Song dynasties, and has been used to this day.

8. Wax valerian

Wax valerian is a product that uses wax as an anti-dye agent for anti-dye printing.

Wax valerian, also known as batik, first appeared on cotton cloth (written cotton cloth) in the Eastern Han Dynasty, which seemed to be imported from the Western Regions, and spread widely among the Wei and Tang dynasties.

Due to the scarcity of wax produced in the Central Plains, the Tang Dynasty appeared to replace wax with ash anti-dyeing printing, also known as ash valerian, which was widely used in cotton fabrics during the Ming and Qing dynasties, that is, the blue calico that is now popular - that is, the following 9.

9. Blue seal (indigo cloth)

Blue calico was popular in the folk of Jiangnan in the Ming and Qing dynasties, simple and elegant, and was printed and dyed with cotton cloth as raw material.

Blue calico is a traditional hollow version of white pulp anti-dyeing printing, also known as indigo cloth, commonly known as "medicine spot cloth", "watering cloth", originally printed and dyed with blue grass as dye. Blue calico is baked with lime and soybean flour synthetic mortar, and is made of cotton, hand-woven, engraving, scraping and other multi-channel printing and dyeing.

Blue calico can generally be divided into two types: blue ground white flowers and white ground blue flowers.

10. Gebu (commonly known as Xia Bu)

The origin of Gezhi, one is Wu Yue, and the other is Lingnan.

Kudzu, a fabric made of the fibers of its stems is called kudzu cloth, commonly known as "summer cloth", and the texture is thin. Since the Zhou, successive generations have paid tribute. In addition to clothing, since the Wei and Jin dynasties, more scarves and kudzu scarves have been used.

11. Silk

Silk fabrics are woven with plain weave using the warp and weft breaking method. When weaving, the natural color silk is used as the warp, and the weft of various colors is dug and woven according to the sketch with a small shuttle, and finally there is a gap between the wefts of different colors, such as "carved shape", so it is also called carved silk.

The silk technique appeared in the Tang Dynasty, prevailed in the Song Dynasty, and has continued to this day.

Second, China's four major embroidery

1. Shu embroidery of the four famous embroideries:

Shu embroidery is also known as "Sichuan embroidery", which is the general name of embroidery products centered on Chengdu, Sichuan. Shu embroidery uses soft satin and colored silk as the main raw materials.

Shu embroidery originated in the folk of western Sichuan, in the long-term development process, due to the influence of geographical environment, customs, culture and art, etc., it has gradually formed a rigorous and delicate, bright and flat, sparse composition, vigorous and round, bright and bright unique style. The selection of Shu embroidery works is rich, including flowers and trees, birds and animals, landscapes, fish and insects, portraits, etc.

There are 12 types of needle methods in 12 categories, and the commonly used needle methods include halo needle, needle laying, needle rolling, needle truncation, needle doping, sand needle, cover needle, etc.

As early as the Han Dynasty, the name of Shu embroidery has been famous all over the world. After the Han Dynasty to the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, Shu embroidery developed rapidly. In the Song Dynasty, the development of Shu embroidery reached its peak. After the middle of the Qing Dynasty, Shu embroidery gradually formed an industry, and at that time, the county government set up a "persuasion bureau" to encourage the production of Shu embroidery.

2. Hunan embroidery, one of the four famous embroideries

The earliest Hunan embroidery products found so far are a silk fabric unearthed from the tomb of the Han Dynasty in Mawangdui, Changsha, and the needle method used is almost the same as that of modern Hunan embroidery, indicating that as early as the Han Dynasty more than 2,000 years ago, the Hunan embroidery process has been produced. After a long period of development, Hunan embroidery gradually introduced the traditional characteristics of Chinese painting, thus forming its own unique style. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the development of Hunan embroidery reached its heyday, and even surpassed Suzhou embroidery, and dominated the Chinese embroidery industry.

Hunan embroidery is mainly made of pure silk, hard satin, soft satin, transparent yarn, nylon, etc., with various colors of silk thread and velvet embroidery. It takes Chinese painting as the god, gives full play to the power of the needle, and achieves the artistic realm of rigorous composition, realistic image, bright color, strong texture, and both form and spirit.

3. Suzhou embroidery of the four famous embroideries

That is, Suzhou embroidery, its birthplace is in the area of Wu County, Suzhou.

Jiangsu embroidery production area of Jiangsu fertile land, mild climate, developed sericulture, rich in silk, since ancient times is the hometown of splendor. The superior geographical environment, gorgeous and rich brocade, and colorful flower threads have created favorable conditions for the development of Suzhou embroidery.

According to the records of Liu Xiang "Shuoyuan" in the Western Han Dynasty, as early as the Spring and Autumn Period more than 2,000 years ago, Wu State had used Su embroidery for clothing. During the Three Kingdoms era, Sun Quan, the king of Wu, ordered the sister of Prime Minister Zhao Da to embroider the "Map of the Nations". Suzhou embroidery in the Song Dynasty has a very high level.

By the Ming Dynasty, Jiangnan had become the center of silk weaving handicrafts. In terms of painting art, the Wumen school represented by Tang Yin (Bohu) and Shen Zhou appeared, which promoted the development of embroidery. Embroidery artists combined with painting works to reproduce zuò, the embroidered masterpieces are lifelike, the charm of pen and ink is vivid, and it is known as "painting with needles" and "ingenious workmanship". Since then, the embroidery art has formed a unique artistic style in terms of stitching, color and pattern, and it is very beautiful in the art garden, and it is comparable to the art of calligraphy and painting.

The Qing Dynasty was the heyday of Suzhou embroidery, which can really be described as the multiplication of genres and the competition of famous players. The large number of embroidery items enjoyed by the royal family are almost all from the hands of Suzhou embroiderers.

Complete varieties of embroidery: according to the variety, there are double-sided embroidery and single-sided embroidery; According to the volume modeling, there are table screens, wall screens, floor screens and large combined screens; According to the content of the table, there are people, pets, flowers and birds, landscapes, still lifes, characteristic buildings, etc.

4. The four famous embroidery of Cantonese embroidery (everyone is relatively unfamiliar with this)

Chao embroidery and Cantonese embroidery are collectively known as Cantonese embroidery, which is said to have been founded in ethnic minorities and has the same origin as Li brocade.

It is known for its full layout, luxuriant patterns, warm scenes, rich colors, strong contrasts, and bright red and green. Its biggest feature is that the layout is full, often there are few gaps, even if there are gaps, they should be supplemented with landscapes, grasslands, tree roots, etc., which looks lively and compact.

Another unique phenomenon of Cantonese embroidery is that the embroiderers are mostly men, and the embroiderers in other regions are different from women.

The author has something to say: this is a data chapter, please read it back after the text is updated and replaced :)

This information chapter is also used for a while.

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