"No fat? Impossible, right? ”

Wu Lei was puzzled: "I've been to Xiangjiang, and the barbecued pork I eat is also thin and fat?" ”

"That's right! Nowadays, there are indeed fat forks and thin forks, and I also like to eat fat. ”

Li Yi turned off the fire, took the steel wool ball, put the blackened pig's head into the pool, scrubbed it, and explained: "In Cantonese barbecued meat, the one without skin and bones is called barbecued pork, the one with skin and bones is called roast meat, and the one without skin and bones is called roast steak."

In the past, barbecued pork was actually called plug-in burning, and the insertion of knives in both ribs.

It means that the meat is inserted into an iron fork and put into the oven or charcoal fire by the chef's hand, and the heat is carefully controlled and fired.

This practice is the production mode of the court or official family, just like the roast venison used to describe the wealth of the Jia family in "Dream of Red Mansions", ordinary people can't afford to burn so much charcoal to barbecue meat. ”

When the Ivory Mountain six-member group saw Li Yi cleaning the pig's head, they all came over to help.

Hearing Li Yi's description, Yang Shulin smiled: "To put it bluntly, it's barbecue?" ”

"That's pretty much the same."

Li Yi smiled before continuing: "In fact, the history of barbecued pork in Cantonese cuisine recipes is not very long, and it was almost around the twentieth year of Daoguang that it began to rise in Yangcheng. ”

Hearing him call out the year, Wen Song on the side was surprised to hear it: "How do you know that Daoguang rose in the twentieth year?" ”

"It's all in the books."

Li Yi said with a smile: "The development of barbecued pork is actually closely related to the roast goose technique.

There is a saying in the roast line, called the head stove to roast the goose, the tail stove to burn the barbecued pork, the barbecued pork is generally roasted behind the roast goose.

So, if you want to judge when barbecued pork arose, just look at when Cantonese roast goose arose.

The technique of Cantonese-style roast goose is derived from the famous court dish of Jinling.

At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the imperial kitchen of Jiankang Mansion followed the anti-Yuan army of Emperor Zhao Yu of the Song Dynasty to Xinhui in Guangdong Province.

Later, because of the defeat of the Battle of Yamen, the imperial chefs were scattered all over Xinhui, and the technique of roasting duck spread in Xinhui.

There are more geese raised in Xinhui, so it was later improved to roast goose to eat.

However, the Xinhui roast goose has not spread in Guangdong Province until Daoguang 20 years ago, and it was only after Daoguang 20 years ago that it was introduced to Yangcheng and gradually spread. ”

Listening to Li Yi's narration, everyone present was fascinated, as if they were listening to a story.

The two of them also paid attention to compliment, and when they heard Li Yi's tone pause slightly, Tang Jianjun said: "Why?" Didn't the Southern Song Dynasty pass it on? Why hasn't the Daoguang spread yet? ”

"Because before the Ming and Qing dynasties, Huaiyang cuisine has always been the mainstream of palace cuisine, and the imperial chefs in the palace were also selected from the Huaiyang area to enter the palace."

Li Yi handed the steel wool ball in his hand to Wu Lei, and continued: "Up and down, Huaiyang cuisine is valued in the palace, and the officials below are also valued by Huaiyang cuisine, and the same is true for the people.

Twenty years before Daoguang, most of the chefs in the high-end restaurants in Yangcheng were controlled by the government chefs brought by officials from the south.

Even high-end restaurants run by locals will not easily hand over their kitchens to local chefs, so local Cantonese cuisine has not been able to occupy the official mainstream position. ”

Wu Lei brushed the carbonization layer on the pig's head with a steel wool ball, not realizing how he had started his work unconsciously, and was still looking at Li Yi and asking curiously: "What about the light twenty years later?" ”

"Then I have to mention one person, his name is Wen Xun, he is one of the four talented Hakka people in Meizhou in the Qing Dynasty, a native of Xiatan Village, Changle Dengshe, and the Changle County Chronicle is compiled by him."

Li Yi washed his hands and explained: "However, his greatest contribution to the kitchen world is that he took the lead in setting up a kitchen restaurant in Yangcheng Henan, which is now Haizhu District, teaching local cooking techniques in Guangdong Province and cultivating a large number of Yangcheng children."

In the twentieth year of Daoguang, because of the outbreak of war, Yangcheng bore the brunt again, so many high-end restaurants and chefs returned to their hometowns for refuge.

In order to operate normally, the owner of the high-end restaurant in Yangcheng had to use the children of Yangcheng who had just learned the art to preside over the overall situation.

Since then, the children of Yangcheng have become the pillars of local high-end restaurants, and local Cantonese cuisine has begun to emerge.

Xinhui's roast goose technique was introduced to Yangcheng at that time, and barbecued pork also arose in Yangcheng at that time. ”

Listening to Li Yi's description, everyone present seemed to understand whether they understood or not, but they still couldn't help but sigh: "It seems that the dishes of different regions have been integrated with each other!" ”

"Cantonese roast goose was actually passed from Jinling, and this is the first time I've heard of it."

"Cantonese cuisine has not been as beautiful as Huaiyang cuisine for as long as it has been in history, but it is the main reason why it has gone abroad and swept the world."

Li Yi said with a smile: "Cantonese cuisine is a fusion of Kyoto flavors, Gusu flavors, Yangzhou fried dishes, local dishes, and even Western methods.

Cantonese cuisine in the hanging oven duck and fried chicken, is the practice of Jinling, dry roasted abalone and barbecued pork cloud legs, and by the influence of Sichuan cuisine, dim sum, and absorb the essence of Huaiyang cuisine, such as soup dumplings, siu mai.

In the tenth year of Xianfeng, the first Western restaurant was opened in Yangcheng, and the Cantonese chef also learned Western methods and created new dishes made in Western cuisine such as milk salad, creamy baked lobster, and dry fried salok.

Cantonese meals such as egg tarts, lotus paste buns, and taro buns are also improved on the basis of butter puff pastry, cheese buns, and cream buns in western pastries.

It is because of the strengths of others, people anywhere in the world can find their favorite delicacies in Cantonese cuisine, so there is a saying that food is eaten in Yangcheng. ”

Listening to Li Yi's description, Wu Lei exclaimed: "Huh? That's right! When I eat Cantonese morning tea, I feel that the egg tarts, pineapple buns, and custard buns taste very much like Western food. ”

"It's all about economic development."

Li Yi explained: "At that time, foreigners could only trade in the Yangcheng area, so merchants from all over the world gathered in the Thirteen Lines.

The flow of local goods and people has accelerated the blending of local flavors.

At that time, most of the people who came to Yangcheng to be officials brought chefs from their hometowns.

But once the official left, chefs from all over the country went to Yangcheng to open restaurants.

The cuisines of various places are blended in Yangcheng, which makes the flavor of Cantonese cuisine more and more abundant. ”

In the live broadcast room, the audience also listened attentively and chatted enthusiastically.

"No wonder when I eat roast goose in Guangdong Province, I feel very similar to the roast duck in Jinling, it turns out to be from the same source!"

"I feel that Cantonese cuisine is like giving back to the other way, other cuisines can be learned, and you can also make your own characteristics."

"The only drawback of Cantonese cuisine is that it is not spicy, if there is a spicy dish, it is perfect."

"Who says Cantonese food isn't spicy? Shaoguan people expressed dissatisfaction! ”

"Come to Nanxiong to taste it and know if it's spicy or not, people in Jiangxi Province are afraid, believe it or not?"

2

(End of chapter)