Ali, in the eyes of many people is the most beautiful place in Tibet, here is not only the greatest sacred mountain "Kailash" but also one of the three holy lakes "Ma Pan Yong Tso", but Ali is also one of the most difficult places in Tibet, the average altitude of more than 4500 meters makes many people prohibitive, and the inconvenience of transportation is also one of the difficulties to go to Ali.

Before coming to Tibet, my roommates and I had looked for a lot of tips on the Internet for self-driving travelers, and it was said that each car to Ali should have at least two spare tires, especially in the section leading to the holy lake, which is very easy to burst tires, and there is even a local saying that the gods of the holy lake hate travelers who come by car.

After starting from Lhasa, the road is not as terrible as the travelers describe, except for a few renovated sections, the whole process is almost asphalt, the car did not encounter any major problems, on the 219 national highway, even see the displacement of the car below 1.6 galloping.

Along the way, the scenery of the plateau is beautiful, and we stop and go, and take out all kinds of "long guns and short cannons" to record the surrounding scenery. However, the high altitude still makes us a little unbearable, Xiaohui and Wang Yan have different degrees of nausea, dizziness and other obvious reactions, fortunately we have already prepared anti-altitude sickness Tibetan medicine and oxygen, everyone after taking the medicine is much better.

In order to fully enjoy the process of the journey and the feeling of outdoor camping, our car speed is very slow, and when we walk to beautiful places, we often have to get out of the car to play for a while and take a group photo, just like that, the first day is gradually twilight in the excitement of the road, after a day of driving, we decided to find a leeward place on the side of the national highway to camp and rest.

Due to the systematic outdoor survival training before, camping and lighting fires are not a problem, and Lili's boyfriend is also a senior member of an outdoor club, so he is completely familiar with alpine outdoor camping. In addition, we have all kinds of equipment, and the sleeping bag of "wolf claw" can adapt to the low temperature of dozens of degrees below zero, so you don't have to worry about freezing when you sleep in the wild at night.

The night on the plateau is exceptionally quiet, perhaps closer to the sky, and the cloudless night is full of stars that will make you can't believe your eyes, as if the deep blue sky is full of sparkling diamonds, and the streamer-like Milky Way makes people wonder if they have left the earth.

Because the air was thin and the temperature was extremely low, we parked our three buggies in a triangle and propped up three tents inside the triangle. Considering the wild animals that roam the plateau from time to time, Lili's boyfriend arranged several laps of alarm wire fence around the three cars, which had been prepared for a long time, and there were alarm devices on top of it in addition to barbs. We also put a few flashing light bulbs on the roof of the car to warn us, and we added a powerful electric baton for self-defense, so we should be able to sit back and relax.

I looked at the stars and chatted a few words. After a tiring day, considering that there was still a long way to go tomorrow, after the boyfriends of Jienian, Lili and Xiaohui showed their chivalry and held a vigil in three shifts, the four of us ladies got into the tent one by one, put on sleeping bags and began to rest.

Listening to the music, after a while, Wang Yan next to me fell asleep, I thought about it for a while, I thought of the "Azi Moon Wheel View", and also thought of the legend of King Gesar, as well as all kinds of demons and monsters, thinking about it, and also quietly fell asleep unconsciously.

In his sleep, a voice suddenly sounded outside the tent.

"Lin Yu, Wang Yan, wake up, wake up. While we were asleep, Lili's boyfriend's voice came into our ears next to the tent, waking us up from a deep sleep. In the midst of some unknown reasons, Wang Yan said to Lili's boyfriend outside the tent with sleepy eyes: "Brother Chen, what happened, people finally slept soundly." ”

"Listen, there's a strange sound coming from the road!" Lili's boyfriend said to us. When I listened closely, there was a faint sound like a brush rubbing on the ground.

In such a quiet night, any small sound would be heard very clearly, and the small "swish, swish" sound could be heard from afar, startling everyone who had been sleeping in the tent, and everyone got out of the tent and took out the electric baton, a little nervous about the strange sound from the middle of the night.

This swish, smack sound is getting closer and closer to us, in addition to the abstinence, we are all holding electric batons and waiting, seeing the calm expression of the precepts, Lili couldn't help but say: "Brother Lin (Jienian pretending to be my cousin 'Lin Nian'), you are still bold, and you don't seem to be nervous at all." ”

"Oh, don't be afraid, it's just an old woman who worships the sacred mountain, and every three steps she takes forward, she has to lie down and worship once, and when she falls to the ground, the thin cushions tied to her palms, chest, knees, and legs will rub on the ground and make such a 'swish, swish' sound. "It seems that the precept has already seen this pilgrim old woman in the distant night.

"I see, how can you see that it is an old woman, and it is only dark in the distance. Xiaohui asked a little curiously.

"Oh, well, that's right, I've been in Tibet for the past two years, and I've met pilgrims at night, and they've come and gone like this, and among the pilgrims, I've met most of the old women, so I guess it's an old Tibetan grandmother. The precept reluctantly explained, but I knew that the monk must have seen the old woman in the distant darkness.

Indeed, when he was practicing Buddhist kung fu at the Prajna Vajra Monastery, he practiced a method of practicing eyesight, which not only allowed him to see beyond ordinary people, but also at night, he could see things far away.

After a while, we saw a slightly rickety figure kneeling down the highway in three steps and five bodies. I looked at my watch, and it was past four o'clock in the morning, and oh my God, don't these simple Tibetans worship the sacred mountain at night? This kind of religious belief and piety is simply to the extreme!

When the old woman was near, by the moonlight, we all saw her serious gesture of prostration, her red cheeks, which were blown by the freezing wind, and her silver hair was blown up by the cold wind from time to time, and she was wrapped in a thick cotton garment, and there were indeed thick cushions tied to her elbows, chest, and legs.

The old man also saw us, and when he got closer, he smiled kindly at us and nodded, saying hello to us young people. This is an ordinary Tibetan woman, with the hair of ordinary Tibetan women, wearing turquoise and other Tibetan pendants, but I found that the old man's eyes were exceptionally bright, even at night, and they shone with some brilliance.

We were all impressed by the old man's devotion to worship and watched with respect as she continued her long and earnest pilgrimage. Along the way, the wind, frost, rain and snow had already made her muddy, and under the dust and dirt, people felt a kind of magical holiness, and there seemed to be a strange luster on her old face, and under the translucent eyes, the old man's rickety body seemed to hide gems and pearls.

People living in the city have never seen this kind of ascetic worship, and they can't even understand this pursuit of the mystery of life, yes, there are too many clouds in this world, and people have long lost their faith and pursuit.

That is, in Tibet, you can also see such a pious old woman. That is, in Tibet, you will find that everywhere you go and the people you see have a devout faith, and you will be infected and assimilated in this piety.

In such a relative quiet, we stood quietly watching the old woman's worship journey, and the sound of "swish, swish" was still so persistent and firm, as if it was transmitted through the night to heaven.

It's just that, after all, this old woman is a physical body, maybe she has walked a long way, every kneeling consumes her huge physical strength, under the moonlight, her lips have been chapped and opened, and the blanket around her waist that may be used to hold food has also dried up, seeing this, I quickly said to Jienian: "Brother, you see, this old woman is not easy, let's get some food and water from the car for the old man." ”

My proposal was immediately approved by everyone, and we took out beef jerky, compressed biscuits and other easy-to-carry foods from the car and tent, and then stretched out the barbed wire outside and walked towards the old woman.

In the face of our enthusiasm, the old woman seemed to be a little shy, a simple demeanor was naturally revealed in the innocent eyes, it seems that the old man is still a little timid, not very afraid to accept our gift of food.

In order for the old woman to accept our food, we asked the only one who knew Tibetan, my so-called cousin "Lin Nian", to communicate with the old woman, hoping that she would understand what we meant and accept our respect and kindness towards her.

According to Jienian, the old woman is a vegetarian and does not eat meat, and the old man resolutely does not want the yogurt and sports drinks we brought, and she told Jienian that the snow water along the way is the purest water source that God has given to the pilgrims.

For the old woman, a pilgrim whom we have never seen before, everyone was both respectful and curious, so they gathered around the old man and asked one sentence at a time, and after the translation of the precepts, we probably knew about the old woman's pilgrimage.

It turns out that the Tibetan people have great reverence for the sacred mountain "Kailash", and folklore says that if you can worship around the mountain in a few circles, you will enter the Elysian World after death. The old woman did not tell us where she came from, but only said that she would go to the mountain every three years to worship, and in this way she would arrive at the mountain in three steps and one bow, and then go around the mountain thirty times to worship, and if it was the year of the horse, she would circle ninety times.

"What, thirty laps, ninety laps! Xiaohui's boyfriend exclaimed.

Yes, many Tibetans who worship and make pilgrimages prostrate slowly along the way, lying on the ground to rest for a while if they are tired, and eating the snow on the side of the road if they are thirsty. The precepts tell us not to underestimate this kind of pious worship, and that many miracles have happened in the process.

Jienian said, don't look at people who worship all the way like this, people will be very dirty, and even eat a lot of dust, but many old Tibetans will be exceptionally healthy and strong after returning from worship every time, and even some old people who were originally weak and sick have regained their vitality after returning from worship.

There was once an elderly Tibetan who was terminally ill with cancer and returned from the coastal area, because he felt that his time was short, and wanted to fulfill his lifelong wish to worship the sacred mountain, so he brought some dry food and prepared a kneeling mat and began what he considered to be the last and only pilgrimage.

Half a year has passed, and after the old man has been sleeping in the open and hungry all the way, he has insisted on worshipping several sacred mountains and three sacred lakes, and his body has not collapsed but has become more and more robust, and even the pain of cancer has gradually disappeared. When he returned home from the pilgrimage, the family members who had thought that the old man was missing were incredible, because according to his original condition, the old man might have less than three months to live. Surprised, the old man's family took the old man to the hospital for a reexamination, and the diagnosis was that the old man was in good health and had no symptoms, and the previous advanced cancer was cured!

The ranking officials may not believe in the above episodes, but they are one of the real miracles that happened in Tibetan areas. If you are lucky enough to travel to Tibet one day and learn more about the local folk customs, customs or legends, the Tibetan compatriots will tell you many incredible things, including the magical power of pious worship, and you will understand the mysteries of it.

Another strange story is also about the Tibetan people kowtowing to worship. It is said that a traveling Han man rescued an old lama who had fainted and kowtowed on the road, and the old lama said to the Han man: "You will have a life-and-death catastrophe next year, and then you can call my name or escape the catastrophe." ”

As a result, late one night in the winter of the second year, this man fell into the snow on the way home after drinking, because he was drunk, he had no strength to get up, although he still had consciousness in his mind, he could not take care of himself, and he couldn't touch the mobile phone for a long time, and there was no pedestrian on the road at that time, and when he saw that he might freeze to death on the street, he suddenly remembered the old lama he met in Tibet last year and kowtowed to the old lama, so he whispered the name of the old lama twice with the idea of giving it a try, and soon after saying the name, his consciousness was crushed by the alcohol and fell asleep。

When he woke up the next day, he found himself lying on his bed, remembering the experience of the previous night, this man quickly called his wife and children to ask him, and when he asked, he realized that last night it was an old lama who helped him to his home who was drunk and unconscious, and when her wife helped him into the house, the old lama quietly left.

......。