Chapter 23: Roasted Wheat

The older generation often said that the circulation of the human body is its own system, and surgery will inevitably cause damage to the vitality. If the condition is more severe, it will cause serious damage to the vitality.

What is Vitality?

"Tailu": "Heaven and earth are formed by vitality, and all things are formed by heaven and earth"; "On Balance": "Vitality is not divided, chaos is one", "All things are born with vitality", and "White Tiger Tongyi • Heaven and Earth": "Heaven and earth are born of vitality, and the ancestor of all things". Liu Zongyuan of the Tang Dynasty proposed that "the revolution of the pang, but the vitality remains"; the royal court of the Ming Dynasty complimented that "heaven and earth are not judged, the vitality is chaotic, the void is clear, and the six-element machine is also created". Cihai: "Yuanqi, also known as 'Yuanqi', refers to the basic substances and activity ability of the physiological functions of human tissues and organs."

According to the classics of traditional Chinese medicine, the Yuan Qi is reborn from the Yuan Jing (the essence of the parents), and the Yin Qi (Jing, Blood, Jin, Shu) and Yang Qi (Wei Qi, Zong Qi, Camp Qi, the Qi of the Viscera, and the Qi of the Meridians) are combined with the essence of the acquired water valley and the natural clear qi. Yin Qi is the main substance, Yang Qi is the main energy, Yin and Yang Qi are transformed into each other, and the essence and spirit are also.

Traditional Chinese medicine believes that vitality is the essence of life, the source of life, sufficient vitality is healthy, vitality is damaged and illness, and vitality is depleted and death. Vitality determines the totality of life, that is to say, if you have sufficient vitality, you will have strong immunity and defeat diseases. If the human body is under-energetic or weak, it cannot produce enough antibodies or immunity to defeat the disease, resulting in death.

Vitality is specific to the concept of modern medicine, which is called metabolism. It can be described in a short limerick poem:

Quick response, good sleep,

I was able to eat, drink, and digest.

The eyes are bright, the brain is bright,

Running and jumping sports do not panic.

No coughing, no panting,

His complexion was full of joy, and his voice was bright.

What is damage to the vital energy? The original qi (inside the body) is damaged.

According to the principle of traditional Chinese medicine "deficiency is supplemented, reality is laxative, heat is cold, cold is hot", the lack of vitality and even serious injuries should be tonified according to the individual's physique and illness from the four aspects of replenishing qi deficiency (qi deficiency), blood deficiency (blood deficiency), yin deficiency (yin deficiency), and yang deficiency (yang deficiency).

It can be seen that the vitality tonic after surgery is very important.

Mother is an exception.

Each ward in the inpatient department is about 20 square meters and has 4 people as standard. If there is a shortage of beds, you can barely cram into 2 extra beds, with a maximum capacity of 6 people. Of course, we didn't encounter such a situation.

In the early morning of the fifth day after the mother's operation, the family members of the bed next door brought the patient roasted wheat for breakfast.

Siu mai is a flavor delicacy in Inner Mongolia.

It is made of local high-quality mutton and green onions as the main ingredient, chopped into a filling, added with a special seasoning, wrapped in the lace dough rolled out with a special rolling pin, not sealed, steamed in the cage drawer for 7-8 minutes to enjoy, the skin is thin and the filling is big, and the taste is very delicious.

At present, with the progress and development of the times, in addition to inheriting the original traditional production methods, siu mai has also innovated many practices in the process of inheritance. The original roasted wheat only had mutton and green onion filling, and now it has added three fresh fillings, beef fillings, etc., but the most authentic ones are still the mutton and green onion fillings.

There are various theories about the origin of the siu mai.

At the beginning, the roasted wheat was only sold in teahouses, and diners ate hot siu mai while drinking strong brick tea, so the roasted wheat is also called "piggybacking", which means "carrying and selling" while selling tea; Some people also say that because the edge of the roasted wheat husk is slightly wrinkled like a flower, it is also called "slightly beautiful", which means "beautiful while burning"; There is also a theory that the siu mai was originally called a pinch bun, because of the indecent name. And because its side resembles an ear of wheat that is about to ripen, it was renamed Roasted Wheat. Nowadays, siu mai has become a delicious staple food, so it is commonly referred to as "siu mai".

According to historical records, in the third year of Qianlong, the Wang family of Beijingli Village, Fushan County, opened a roasted wheat restaurant in Xianyukou outside the front gate of Beijing, and made fried triangles and various famous dishes. On the Chinese New Year's Eve of the seventeenth year of Qianlong, the Qianlong Emperor returned to Beijing late at night from a private visit to Tongzhou, which coincided with Chinese New Year's Eve, and this one was the only one to open, not only with warm service, but also with soft and fragrant roasted wheat filling, oily but not greasy, white and crystalline. Qianlong was full of praise after eating, and he was very happy, so he asked the boss:

"Boss, what's the name of your dumpling-like food, and how can it be so delicious?"

As soon as the shopkeeper opened his eyes and heard the sound, he knew that this person was not ordinary, and he must be a certain "dignitary" in the capital, so he replied respectfully: "Lord Hui, this delicacy is called siu mai, which is made of mutton and green onions through special craftsmanship. If you eat it with a sip of brick tea from the shop, the taste will be even more beautiful. ”

"Haha...... Is there such a thing?" Qianlong was very happy when he heard this, according to the boss's words, he took a bite of roasted wheat, drank a sip of brick tea, and nodded frequently, shouting delicious, "Boss, your roasted wheat brick tea really deserves its reputation, and it has a different taste than just eating siu mai!"

"Thank you, sir, for the compliment!" the boss bowed with his fists in thanks.

"What's the name of your little shop?" asked Qianlong.

The boss hurriedly replied: "The shop has no name, the villain's surname is Wang, and everyone calls it Wang Ji Liquor Shop." ”

At this time, when every household was bursting with firecrackers, Qianlong thought that the people were already celebrating the New Year, so he touched the scene, sighed and said gratefully: "You are still open for business at this time on Chinese New Year's Eve, and this roasted wheat and brick tea are unique to you, and the taste is even better, you are the only one in this Kyoto city, so simply name it 'all in one place'!"

The shopkeeper responded casually and nodded yes in a joking heart, never thinking that this back and forth chat would bring great benefits to his small shop!

After Emperor Qianlong returned to the palace, he personally wrote the three big characters of "all in one place", and ordered someone to make a tiger head plaque and send it to the roasted wheat hall.

When the shop owner learned that Qianlong had come to eat on Chinese New Year's Eve, he was pleasantly surprised, and he knelt down on the street and bowed his head.

After Qianlong gave the plaque, many dignitaries and nobles, literati and ink writers came to hear the wind, in addition to seeing the true face of the imperial plaque, of course, but also to taste the delicacy highly appreciated by Emperor Qianlong - roasted wheat. Since then, the reputation of the roasted wheat hall has spread far and wide, and its value has doubled, and it has been passed down to this day. Since then, the name of "all in one place" is famous in old Beijing, and it can be said that without "all in one place", Beijing people do not know what is roasted wheat.

There is a Tibetan poem that says:

The old Pu roasted wheat king in the capital,

A yellow plaque gives brilliance.

There are many distinguished guests in the neighboring streets,

Umami and delicious to taste.

In just 28 words, the history, characteristics, and the delicious flavor of the roasted wheat are all out one by one, and the last two sentences also tell everyone that the "all in one place" is open on the street, with convenient transportation, and calls on everyone to try the signature food here - siu mai.

Another theory is for mutton and green onion roasted wheat. It is said that the real origin of siu mai is in Suiyuan in the Qing Dynasty, which is now the capital of Inner Mongolia - Hohhot. At the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, in the old city of Hohhot, there were two brothers who made a living by selling steamed buns, and later the elder brother married a daughter-in-law, and the sister-in-law asked to divide the family, the steamed bun shop was headed by the brother and sister-in-law, and the younger brother worked in the store to make steamed buns and sell steamed buns, and the kind brother had no penniny except to eat enough, and then had no pennis, in order to increase his income and marry his daughter-in-law in the future, when the younger brother steamed the buns, he made some thin skin and opened "buns", and sold them separately, and the money from selling them was given to the elder brother, and the money from the sale was accumulated, many people liked this bun that was not like the buns, and named it "piggybacking" Later, the name evolved, and after several spreads, it was changed to siu mai. Now the people of the old city of Hohhot call it slightly beautiful.

I believe that these paragraphs of the history of roasted wheat can be found on "Du Niang" casually. Because there are different opinions, I will only popularize the most widely circulated sayings for you, and you can use them as a pastime.

In some places in Inner Mongolia (such as Hohhot and its surrounding banner counties), you should drink brick tea when you eat siu mai, because the traditional siu mai is stuffed with mutton and green onions, and it is inevitable that you will be a little greasy if you eat too much, and the main thing to drink brick tea is to help digestion and relieve oiliness.

Every morning, everyone gathers together in the siu mai hall, each person comes to two taels of roasted wheat, pours a pot of brick tea, or chats about national news, or chats about the shortcomings of the family, retires, and the idle uncles and aunts can last all morning on "one breakfast".

The siu mai is calculated in units of "taels", of course, not the actual weight of the siu mai, but the weight of the roasted wheat husk. Under normal circumstances, "one or two" roasted wheat is 6-8, mainly talking about the size of the roasted wheat husk.

Friends who are familiar with Inner Mongolia know that siu mai is called one of the "hard breakfasts" by the locals. If you go to the pastoral area, of course, milk tea and hand-handled meat will be served early.

Since I was a child, due to family conditions, my mother has never been to a restaurant to eat, let alone siu mai, and the fragrant smell naturally wafted into my mother's nose, and my mother swallowed her saliva and asked, "What are you eating?" ”

"This is siu mai, you are hungry too, now your family has not been sent over to eat, you can eat a little with us!" said that, the family members next to the bed prepared to bring a few chopsticks to their mother to try it.

Mother would be embarrassed to accept strangers' things, swallowed hard, and hurriedly said, "No, no, you can eat, wait for my family to come later, just let him go out and buy it." ”

Tactfully rejected the patient's kindness, and the mother waited with anticrative expectation for her father to come to the hospital quickly, so that she could quickly taste the "human delicacy" that she had never eaten.

After a while, my father brought a few steamed buns and pickles to my mother.

"Go buy me some siu mai to eat!" said the mother, pointing to the patient in the next bed, "Look at the siu mai that people just bought, I smell a very special fragrance, I have never eaten it when I am so big, and I want to eat it too." Every day in the hospital, I am a little tired of eating either steamed buns or pickles, and I can't eat it anymore. ”

The mother looked at the father expectantly, eager for an affirmative answer.