799. The Chef's Craft
In the morning, everyone just chatted and had a light meal together at noon.
It's really a light meal, don't think that a group of big bosses sitting together must be big fish and meat delicacies, daily catering, in fact, is not much different from ordinary people, at most the grade of the ingredients is different, if you are rich, the ingredients you eat will definitely be more upscale.
As for the production method, there is nothing to say, even the big fish and meat that ordinary people like, rich people should really avoid. After all, before the money is spent, people will have nothing first, which is really unacceptable.
The place to eat is in Brother Ma's villa, and he specially invited the chef in charge from a well-known local restaurant in Lin'an, and wanted to invite Zhou Fangyuan and others to taste the most authentic local dishes.
Lin'an cuisine is an important part of the food culture of Zhejiang Province and an important genre of Zhejiang cuisine. Since the reform and opening up, Lin'an, as a famous tourist city, has increased internal and external exchanges, and in the past, it was faced with local customers, but now it is facing the whole country and the world. With the increase in exchange activities, the increase in learning opportunities, and the increasing pressure of challenges, the concept of catering operators must change accordingly.
Lin'an cuisine and brother cuisine are becoming more and more integrated, absorbing the strengths of all families, and becoming a master of no sect and no faction.
Perhaps, the word "help" is still too early to be used. Whether in the actual work of hotels and chefs, or in theoretical summary, a so-called "gang" has not really been formed. Linbang cuisine is driven by the market to form today's development momentum. From the end of the 80s of the last century to the present, more than 20 years of arduous exploration have today's achievements, compared with other traditional cuisines such as Sichuan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine, Linbang cuisine is indeed ahead of the curve. As for the real formation of its own independent cuisine, it still needs to be worked hard in all aspects.
Lin'an cuisine is divided into two genres: "on the lake" and "city chamber".
The former is mainly made of fish, shrimp and poultry, and is good at raw stir-frying, stewing, tender and other techniques, paying attention to the clear, fresh, crisp and tender taste, and paying attention to retaining the original taste. The latter is mostly made of meat, and the cooking methods of Lin'an cuisine are mainly steamed, stewed, simmered and burned, paying attention to the taste of light oil, light pulp, light and fresh tenderness, and paying attention to the combination of fresh and salty.
The taste of Lin'an cuisine is mainly salty and slightly sweet, but it is not as sweet as Gusu cuisine, nor is it as strong as Shanghai cuisine, which is easy to accept. "Light" is a symbolic feature of Lin'an cuisine, which is in line with the trend of dishes to be "light". In addition, Lin'an cuisine is light and peaceful, and there are not many elements of "grabbing taste", which makes it easy to absorb the essence of dishes from all over the north and south, so the current Lin'an cuisine is more like a "universal dish", which is easy to win the love of diners from the north and south.
There are many well-known Lin'an dishes, and it is obviously impossible to give examples one by one, as for Brother Ma's meal, the dishes that can be served are also limited, after all, there are only four people in total, and they can't eat and waste anything, after all, it costs money, and there is nothing to blame. But the problem is that once there are too many dishes, everyone may not have eaten them, and they will be full of them, but it is not beautiful. So Brother Da Ma strictly controlled the number of dishes, but even so, this table was full of dishes, and it was not the amount that four people should have.
Zhou Fangyuan took a look, he prides himself on snacks, and he is also the kind of person who eats wherever he goes, and he is especially fond of Chinese food.
The local dishes of Lin'an are a few dishes that he has known for a long time and has been looking forward to for a long time.
The first course, Longjing shrimp. This is a very, very famous dish in Lin'an, and its delicious point is that the shrimp is very crystal clear, the meat is very thick, and it is very delicious. However, simple fried shrimp can actually be eaten in many places. Its special feature is that it uses tea, a more famous specialty of Lin'an, to make side dishes, and the fragrance of tea and the freshness of the shrimp itself have a fierce collision, combined with a very magical taste experience. For Zhou Fangyuan, it tastes even better. Moreover, the taste of Longjing shrimp made by this chef is relatively light, although the tea aroma and the freshness of the shrimp are very strong, but they are light and refreshing. Each shrimp is very large and plump, and you can generally eat several in one bite, and it squeaks in your mouth, which is particularly satisfying.
The second dish is smoked fish, which is a more characteristic dish in the Lin'an area. Smoked fish can't actually be taken literally by him. In fact, the fish is marinated in soy sauce and other good seasonings, and then coated in a layer of flour and fried in an oil pan to make it. Today's smoked fish is cut into relatively large pieces and tastes very strong. After the seasoning is marinated, the taste completely penetrates into the fish, and the fishy smell of the fish itself is gone, it is particularly fragrant, and it feels a little crispy and crispy when you put it in the mouth, and this taste is different from the fried fish or grilled fish that is generally recognized.
The third dish is also a famous dish in the Lin'an area, which is basically available all over the country, that is, Dongpo meat. Da Ma Ge is the same as other places, generally Dongpo meat is a piece of meat on a dish. It is usually served in a small bowl, and when it is served, you will see an attractive sheen of skin on top. Unless you are a person who does not like to eat fatty meat, you must try it, because even if you see a layer of fatty meat on it, in fact, the fat inside has been completely steamed out, and the fatty meat is not greasy at all, but soft, glutinous, with aroma and sweet taste.
Zhou Fangyuan, a person who has been very reluctant to fatty meat since he was a child, tasted it, although it was not enough to change his dislike of fatty meat, but only this one bite was acceptable to him.
As for the lean meat below, it is not too lean and hard to bite, but it is also soft and glutinous. Put it in your mouth and chew it carefully for a while, and the rich aroma of meat will easily spread. I have to say that the chef invited by Brother Ma is really level, especially the dish of Dongpo meat, because it is too famous, because it is too common, Zhou Fangyuan has eaten a lot, in the past, he didn't eat fatty meat, he didn't touch it, he couldn't eat a little, and he would vomit if he ate it. Of course, this is more of a psychological factor, but today, the chef's work has allowed him to overcome this psychological suggestion, which is really quite level.
The fourth dish is the dry fried bell, which is also a very authentic local dish of Lin'an. What kind of thing is a bell? Actually, it's crispy tofu skin wrapped into a tofu skin roll, similar to spring rolls. Because when it is not cooked, the tofu skin itself is very crisp and loud when bitten, so it gets its name. The delicious point of the dry-fried bell lies in the sauce it goes with, and those who don't like dipping sauce can eat it with chopped green onions alone, which tastes fragrant. Those who love dipping sauce are also prepared, and the chef offers a total of three sauces to choose from. The first is the same tomato sauce as you usually eat French fries, but the texture is completely different from eating French fries. The second is a black pepper sauce similar to that of steak, which makes it taste more delicious. There is also a feeling that is a little bit like pickled radish placed inside, and it is sweet and sour when you stand up.
Although it is a fried food, it does not taste greasy or hot, but has a very refreshing feeling.
The fifth course, roar, this one is too famous, West Lake vinegar fish!
The vinegar fish in West Lake is finely selected, and the grass carp is usually about one and a half catties. When cooking, the heat is very demanding, and it can only be cooked in three or four minutes to get just right. When serving, pour a layer of sweet and sour over it. The color of the finished dish is red and bright, and the fish meat is tender and delicious, with crab flavor, sweet and sour, and has unique characteristics. Grass carp is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, which is beneficial to blood circulation and is a good food for cardiovascular patients; grass carp is rich in selenium, regular consumption has anti-aging, beauty effect, and also has a certain prevention and treatment effect on tumors; and has the effect of warming the stomach and neutralizing the liver to dispel wind, cure paralysis, intercept malaria, benefit the intestines and eyes, and treat fatigue, wind deficiency headache, hyperactivity of liver yang, hypertension, headache, malaria for a long time, etc.
There is also a very interesting historical story about this dish.
Legend has it that in ancient times, there were two brothers surnamed Song, full of articles, very learned, and lived in seclusion in the West Lake to fish for a living. The local villain Zhao Daguan once visited the lake, and met a woman who was wearing a yarn by the lake, and when she saw her beautiful appearance, she wanted to occupy it. As soon as he sent someone to inquire, it turned out that this woman was Brother Song's wife, so he used conspiracy to kill Brother Song. The encroachment of the evil forces made the uncle and sister-in-law of the Song family very angry, and the two went to the official government to sue together, trying to uphold righteousness and make the villain punished. How did they know that the government at that time was angry with the evil forces, and not only did not accept their complaints, but beat them with a stick and drove them out of the government.
After returning home, Sister-in-law Song asked Brother Song to pack up and flee quickly, so as not to be followed by villains to retaliate. Before leaving, my sister-in-law burned a bowl of fish, added sugar and vinegar, and cooked it in a peculiar way. Brother Song asked his sister-in-law: Why is the fish burning like this today? My sister-in-law said: Fish are sweet and sour, I want you to go out this time, don't forget how your brother died, if your life is sweet, don't forget the bitterness of the common people being bullied, don't forget the bitterness of your sister-in-law's hatred.
The younger brother was very excited when he heard this, ate the fish, and left with his sister-in-law's heart in mind. Later, Brother Song was determined to study hard outside and became famous, and returned to Lin'an to avenge his brother's murder and punish the villain. But at this time, Sister-in-law Song had already fled and could not be found. Once, Brother Song went out to a banquet, and during the banquet he ate a dish, which tasted like his sister-in-law burned when he left home, and hurriedly asked who burned it, only to know that it was his sister-in-law's masterpiece. It turned out that after he left, his sister-in-law hid incognito and hid in the official's house as a cook in order to avoid the villain's entanglement. Brother Song was very happy to find his sister-in-law, so he resigned from his official position, took his sister-in-law home, and resumed the life of a fisherman who fished for a living.
Later, someone ate this dish, and the poem was flourishing, and a poem was written on the wall of the restaurant: "The skirts are drunk and drunk, and the green sun is in the shadow; Why bother looking for Zhang Han perch, the fish is beautiful and the flavor is said to be the West Lake; The last sentence of the poem refers to the legend of "West Lake Vinegar Fish".
It is said that many tourists who come to Lin'an are very curious about this West Lake vinegar fish, and people are usually attracted by its color and soup. The taste of this sweet and sour fish is most suitable for the taste of the elderly and children, but most people are not used to this sour and sweet and spicy taste, so the West Lake vinegar fish was only popular for a while, and then the game fell out of favor.
In fact, what many people don't know is that this dish was a genuine state banquet dish back then, and it was a dish presented by national leaders when they entertained foreign leaders, and it was definitely a first-class high.
And the most important thing is that the performance of the West Lake vinegar fish at the state banquet is not bad, and the reason why it fell off the altar is only because people only taste the taste of folk vinegar fish. But it should be understood that the characteristic of Chinese food is that there is no standard of standard. Each chef will be improvised, and the seasoning will also have different control, the chef who does not cook well changes the taste of the West Lake vinegar fish, and even different restaurants can taste various flavors of West Lake vinegar fish, making it feel like none of them is very authentic. Another reason is that the West Lake vinegar fish is made of grass carp, which has a strong fishy smell and rough meat, coupled with the sour vinegar and fishy smell that many people cannot accept, and there is no taste of high-end dishes in the mouth. Therefore, West Lake vinegar fish is not a high-scoring dish in the hearts of ordinary people.
So some people may wonder why this dish that is difficult to eat is the main dish of the state banquet? This just shows that this dish still has strength. The state banquet generally does not consider dishes that are too heavy and too heavy, after all, it is to face foreign guests, and being able to serve the state banquet shows that the chef has handled the fishy smell well, and the control of the taste is particularly precise, so that the foreign guests can not eat the fishy sour taste, so if you want to go to the state banquet, you still have to have excellent skills, if everyone can eat the West Lake vinegar fish like the state banquet, then the chef position of the state banquet may be able to go to anyone!
The chef invited by Brother Ma is estimated to be impossible to be at the level of a state banquet, but it is undeniable that the level of this chef is really high. To use a very vulgar after-break phrase, it is that the pug fell into the toilet - fattened!
That's pretty much it for the main course, and there are a few other dishes, but none of them are famous.
I ate the main course and ate some snacks, which are all authentic snacks in Lin'an. Lin'an's local dim sum is also relatively famous, and relying on the chef's personal level, I'm afraid that even if it is an ordinary dish, he can make a good effect, anyway, when the last sip of wine is down, Zhou Fangyuan has only one feeling, that is, satisfaction. He leaned back in his chair, smoked a cigarette, and one of them shook one, and several people sat around the table and began to swallow the clouds.
I've eaten too much, and I don't want to move.