Sorey, don't be naïve, feelings are feelings, but you also know in your bones that if you want to make the luxury industry a global hegemon, only the tricks of Arnott's old bastard can reach the top. Don't think that just because I'm going to point fingers at the product line, I'm going to be the exact same person as Arnott.

Everyone is a smart person, think with reason, not with emotion. We can't completely deny all his tricks, and we can't just because 'if Arnault uses a certain trick, I won't use it at all', that is tying our hands and feet, and we can only use a limited amount of chaff. ”

Gu Kun was also mentally prepared for De Sorey's fierce reaction, so he waited for the other party to calm down a little and calm down a little before continuing to persuade eloquently.

De Soray snorted coldly and watched for a few seconds, rubbing his heather pipe: "That's nice, who knows if you're a boiled frog in warm water." ”

"It's very simple, I definitely can't learn from Arnott, if I want to be second in the world, I have to build myself into a standard-bearer against Arnott, which must be a little different from him. Gu Kun sincerely analyzed and gave an example,

"You French, you may not have a history of intrigue and intrigues, but we Chinese people have too deep understanding of this truth. 1,800 years ago, there was a brief period of division in China, when a warlord monarch said:

'Hurry, I will be lenient; with violence, I with benevolence; with me, I with loyalty; Contrary to, things can be heard. The hostile warlord he had to deal with was named Cao Cao, but he was displaced in his early years and had no stable foundation, so if he wanted to build himself into the 'second in the world and the first person to resist Cao', he had to consolidate the character of 'every opposite of Cao'.

I think that this warlord's strategy was quite partly right, but it was too bigot, and it fell short in the end. In reality, it is enough to pick a few points that are 'contrary to Arnott' and outline the character, but the word 'every' is not necessary. ”

If you don't carry the flag, you can't carry it too neatly.

After saying this, de Soré finally felt a little less resistant.

"Then tell me where the measure of your principle is. You're going to be the enemy of Arnott, what is the ideal persona? ”

Gu Kunchengzhu blurted out in his chest: "It's very simple, collectivization, cutting product lines, each sub-brand has a specialization, which can be learned from Arnott." However, I only cut the spectrum brand, not the contemporary brand, that is, the brand whose founder and designer are still alive.

Arnault had a reputation for being unsentimental in the luxury industry, and I certainly couldn't quite be like him. However, you Gucci companies have long embraced capital, and they are all 80 years old, not to mention that the founder is dead, and even the grandson of the founder has retired -

Such a brand, do you dare to say that all of Gucci's product lines were created by the elder Gucci before his death? Many product lines that are not competitive enough were originally opened one after another after the company became bigger, thinking of hitchhiking and bringing goods, not doing nothing.

For example, Gucci's history of making cosmetics is less than 30 years, which is not a problem compared to the 80-year history of the entire brand, and now these cosmetics, especially perfumes, are really not competitive. After I integrate, why can't I find a pick-up man to cut it down?

Besides, I don't cut it casually, if I don't have other subsidiaries under the group that do well in the field of perfume and cosmetics, only you Gucci, a half-person who has dates and no dates, then I won't cut it, no matter how small the mosquito is, it is meat, and it doesn't cost much to promote it, and it is a little bit to earn a little while lying down.

Only when the product matrix of other sub-brands under my group reaches this level, I will consider cutting you, and with the breadth of my current layout, you don't have to worry about this for at least five years. ”

Hacking people to death is not killing artists, this is the image of "chivalrous characters" in the rivers and lakes sketched by Gu Kun for himself.

If Gu Kun can adhere to this principle, it is really possible to raise the banner of "Arnott's biggest competitor".

The luxury industry, artists, and designers generally talk about feelings, so they boycott Arnott, but it is reasonable to say that feelings are not indiscriminate.

If the founders are dead and handed over to professional managers to take care of, then the professional manager is just a businessman, not an artist, the vulgar existence of businessmen, you have embraced the financial capital market, what qualifications do you have to ask others to be talked about?

Thinking of this, Soray took the opportunity to ask: "So, when you praised Giorgio Armani, you never mentioned 'cutting off uncompetitive product lines', and when you came to me, you just thought that he was an artist, Lao Tzu was a businessman, and the businessman was bought for profit?"

Gu Kun smiled: "I can't talk about it, don't think of people so darkly." ”

Sorey: "Even so, I don't think you've done enough to create a persona - you should at least exempt those businesses that are family-run from your division even though the founder artist is dead, otherwise it doesn't make sense in principle." ”

Gu Kun thought about it for a while, and immediately expressed his repentance: "Yes, you think more comprehensively than me, although some artists are dead, as long as the company he left behind adheres to the inheritance of artistic concepts, I should indeed open the net to invite people's hearts." That's good, don't just be limited to the son inheriting the father's business, as long as the person at the helm of the company is the master and apprentice inheritance, orderly and unbroken, and has not entered the capital operation mode, I can open the net. ”

After the revision, the attitude has become "just don't talk about feelings with the team of professional managers", they are pure businessmen.

Sorey didn't want to dwell on this wordplay, so he cut to the next topic: "Let's not talk about that, let's talk about 'what would be good if Gucci accepted your transformation of the product line waste'?

Gu Kun: "Of course, there is no doubt that the cost of operating stores of each sub-brand is greatly reduced by concentrating under the name of a large luxury group. However, each sub-brand only retains the world's first and most competitive category in its field to open a store, so that the group has more confidence to ask the other party to free store rent. This logic, Arnault has been trying it step by step since 96, and I think you can understand it. ”

Men may see this problem in a fog, mainly because men never shop.

However, even a man can sometimes feel strange when he uses his brain a little.

For example, those luxury boutiques on the first floor of Yintai/Wandamao/Wanda Plaza don't seem to sell a few pieces of clothes a year? Those big French and Italian brands are so expensive and the import tariffs are so high, who would be stupid enough to buy them offline in domestic shopping malls? When traveling to Japan, South Korea or other foreign countries, can't they buy them in duty-free shops?

Even in today's world, if Chinese people want to buy Armani and Gucci, most of them will buy and buy when they travel to Lanfang, and then when they return to China, they will wear five or six sets of superb luxury clothes with three layers inside and three layers outside, and bring the goods back with their bodies.

So aren't those who rent boutiques in Yintai Wanda with a huge amount of gold shop renting a boutique?

But the truth is that these big names will definitely not lose money, because the top big names don't need to pay rent to open a store.

This is an operating model that has only evolved in the 21st century for industries such as shopping malls.

Just like in 2020, because of the outbreak of the plague, many people are saying that "the restaurant industry is over, the wave of closures is coming, and if it doesn't open for a few months, the store rent can't bear it".

But in fact, looking through the financial reports, only the so-called "Internet celebrity brands" such as Meizhou Dongpo Meat and Xibei Noodle Village were overwhelmed by rent. Haidilao, which is also known as "the cost pressure has to increase prices", in fact, the rent cost in the financial report only accounts for 0.8% of the company's total operating costs-

Because Haidilao has achieved the "first forced style in China" in the hot pot category, and it has opened stores to take the boutique route, and the number is not large, so many shopping malls are free to send stores to Haidilao to open stores, and they have zero store rental costs. The 0.8 per cent rent cost for the entire company is also made up of the cost of leasing office space at the headquarters and offices.

Of course, Haidilao is not very good, because after all, they rely on "boutiques/few stores" to maintain the noble status of giving away shop rents for nothing. What's even better is KFC, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, these are rotten street stores, and when they settle in large shopping malls, they still don't want to rent stores, and large shopping malls are counting on these facilities to attract traffic, just like when the website drains traffic, "the money of Internet celebrities is returned, and the money on the street is divided into three or seven".

(Note: You still have to pay money to rent a store on the street to open KFC, and the money mentioned here is not for money, but for the shops inside the shopping mall.) The owners of shopping malls will waive the rent of this part of the shop and spread it on other lesser-known brands. For example, a shopping mall has a total of 6 restaurants, 1 is KFC, and the other 5 are nameless shops, so it is equivalent to paying 1.2 times the rent of each of these 5 nameless shops to raise this KFC. ）

Shop rents are collected from small merchants who are not well-known and have to rely on the great god to attract traffic to this mall before they can sell some goods.

In the same way, luxury brands, before the 90s, when each company was working alone, the bargaining power to negotiate rent-free with large shopping mall chains was very low, and at that time, both Gucci and LV had to open stores for rent.

After Arnott's crazy restructuring and mergers and acquisitions of LV and Dior, the "rent-free model for big brands" was born all over the world.

It can be said that Bernard Arnault is the originator of the business model of "Internet celebrities return all the money, and the money on the street is divided into three or seven accounts".

From then on, it is no longer a matter of each specific luxury brand to talk to the chain shopping malls, but a giant group such as LVMH will come forward in a unified manner and negotiate the package configuration.

The premise is that LVMH must be integrated internally, so that "every sub-brand I come up with is the world's first in this category, or at least the world's first", and then the chain shopping mall is willing to give you a discount or rent-free.

If Dior doesn't cut off the uncompetitive sub-categories of bags and clothing, and asks for some shops for bags and clothing when they pack and open stores, then the chain shopping mall giants are not stupid and will not let you use this garbage to lower the ping efficiency.

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