Chapter 237: Alternative Marketing Strategies
With 200 regular customers, Chanel is able to "stand alone" in the kingdom of haute couture.
That sounds like a little bit of a lot.
There are more than this number of female stars who go to the red carpet around the world every year.
Aren't the female stars who compete all day long belong to the "regular customers" of haute couture?
The answer is indeed no.
A large part of the dresses worn by female celebrities are Ready-to-ear, which are the ones that will be released at the four major fashion weeks.
Even the lady Baby, who is not bad for money, and the Dior dress she wore to the Cannes Film Festival also belonged to ready-to-wear, not haute couture.
Of course, Baby didn't wear haute couture, and the Dior wedding dress she wore when she got married was a special standard haute couture hand-sewn over five months and nearly 1,000 man-hours.
Even at the level and status of the sect leader's wife, the number of times Gao Ding's upper body can be made is limited.
So, female stars who are of a higher level and really wear haute couture on the red carpet belong to the regular customers of haute couture?
The answer is a big no.
The dresses on big-name actresses are basically "borrowed" from brands.
Haute Couture, which sells particularly well, such as Chanel, is not very likely to lend its haute couture dresses to celebrities on the red carpet.
With the exception of Chanel, the rest of the haute couture houses are very keen to lend their dresses to big-name stars on the red carpet.
Haute Couture has the requirement of "production", so many "original designs" have to be put on every season, not to mention the time-consuming, costly, and material-consuming, after the haute couture press conference, no one buys a lot of "clothes".
Lending dresses to big-name celebrities to wear, by the way, attracts a lot of attention to yourself, whether it is for the brand or for the star, it is a mutually beneficial and normal thing.
In doing so, it will not attract "regular customers", but it can attract female celebrities who can't get any brand invitations and can't borrow big-name dresses to take the initiative to come to the door.
In order to increase exposure, these people must go to the red carpet even if they "smash the pot and sell iron".
Most of these people are "temporary" attributes.
But temporary customers are also customers!
Since it is quite difficult to increase the number of regular customers, it is understandable that other brands of haute couture attach importance to temporary customers, except for Chanel, which has a strong high-end "fixed customer base".
Moreover, these "temporary customers", if one is not careful, marries into a wealthy family, it is still possible to become a regular customer.
In short, there will be no more than 1,500 real high-end customers worldwide, and less than one-third of this rare group of people will place orders every year.
In addition to designers and heads of important fashion media, the most important seats in the first row of the haute couture show are the more mysterious members of the haute couture club, which will not exceed 200 people at most.
Female celebrities occasionally sit in the front row of the haute couture press conference because of their fame, and the customers of the haute couture club sit in the front row, which is all smashed out with real money.
The fashion circle is closed, and the couture circle is even more closed.
If the seemingly gorgeous Haute Couture can't even break even, why are there so many designers and so many brands that make Haute Couture a dream palace?
Yan Yun studied this, and began to be a little puzzled.
How boring is it to be alone there and not understand it?
Yan Yun decided to find someone to think with her.
Yan Yun called his cousin and said that he wanted to discuss this issue.
She had just asked the question clearly, and was hit by Yan Ling, saying how could she not be smart when she was a child.
When Yan Yun was still very young, he told Yan Ling that if he wanted to make a brand when he grew up, he would open a store on Wuma Street, the most prosperous street in Wenzhou.
Yan Yun was only six years old when he said this, and he hadn't even started elementary school, nor had he left Wenzhou.
"Fifth Avenue in New York, Champs-Elysées in Paris, Oxford Street in London, Shinjuku Street in Tokyo, Nanjing Road in Shanghai, how many of the flagship stores in these famous shopping districts are profitable to catch up with the store rent? If you can't even earn back the rent, why do you want to open a store?" Yan Ling asked Yan Yun to think about the IQ he had since he was a child.
Yan Yun also felt a little funny after listening to this series of street names.
Probably because of the over-research, "only because I am in this mountain".
Haute couture is a phenomenal existence.
Complex processes, time-consuming, rare fabrics, expensive accessories, difficult marketing, and small audiences are all on the bright side.
But beyond these obvious facts, the title Haute Couture is the highest tribute to a brand's aesthetic, design and craftsmanship.
Extremely rare customer group, a price that is difficult for ordinary people to achieve.
The existence of a haute couture studio that is both exclusive and mysterious has greatly stimulated the desire of "ordinary customers" outside the haute couture circle to explore the purchase.
Even if the brand's Haute Couture Maison itself is loss-making, the increase in brand awareness and recognition brought by the haute couture fashion house cannot be measured by these losses.
Doing haute couture is for "fame", and after having "fame", "profit" will follow.
It doesn't matter if "ordinary customers" can't afford hundreds of thousands of haute couture, they can buy 20,000 or 30,000 ready-to-wear clothes and bags.
Ready-to-wear garments are often cut by a zero after the price of haute couture, so that the customer base is hundreds or thousands of times larger.
Twenty or thirty thousand is still not coveted for the charm of this brand, and the public can afford to buy it, what should I do?
Launch a few hundred more perfumes and makeup.
In this way, an incomparably mysterious and lofty brand has become something that most people can afford.
Layer by layer, the brand on the top of the pyramid haute couture, driving the name, and the bottom of the pyramid will continue to convey the benefits to the direction of the name, forming a virtuous circle.
The foundation at the base of the pyramid is solid enough to bring enough support to the top of the pyramid.
Chanel's regular customers have accumulated over the years.
If you buy bags and clothes all over the world, including Chanel and Dior stores in China, without blinking your eyes, and your temperament is more suitable, the clerk will ask you if you will be interested in haute couture.
Of course, you can also take the initiative to express your interest in Haute Couture so that the staff will put you in touch with the Haute Couture salons in Paris.
After making an appointment, you can arrange your own itinerary to Paris to "tailor".
Haute Couture Salon is usually available in both French and English.
With the increasing number of Chinese buyers, many haute couture fashion houses have now begun to offer brochures in Chinese.
But Chinese buyers are still not the main force in buying haute couture.
The Middle East and Russia are at the heart of this top-tier luxury consumer.
The term "lady of the Persian Gulf" has an unassailable place in the salon of Haute Couture.
The previous generation of Chinese female tycoons or wealthy wives are relatively rare to maintain a particularly good figure in their forties and fifties.
Haute couture is all about putting clothes and people in the most beautiful state.
If the first purpose of buying clothes is to modify the figure that has been out of shape, it does not belong to the target customers of Gaoding.
In the particularly good years of the high-end market, some designers will also pick customers.
But that was all in the past, and today's high-end market is not very prosperous, of course, everything is to meet the needs of customers as the first criterion.
Picking on the customer's words has also become a thing of the past.
With the establishment of many large companies in the early days of reform and opening up, it has entered the time of the second or even third generation succession.
There are more and more Chinese celebrities who are rich and well-built.
It's just that in the top luxury club of Gaoding, some people will enter and some people will leave, and the number of buyers is not much more.
It is not difficult for Yan Yun to figure out why a big brand should open a high-end studio at a loss, but after figuring it out, it has no substantive effect.
It's hard for an individual designer to go far on the road of haute couture without the bottom of the pyramid as a support.
The first is that there is no capital, and even more terrible than no funds is the lack of customers.
The studio opened, the money went down, the day and evening clothes were designed, and the press conference was carefully prepared, but the final result was that no one cared about it and there were no orders.
It's a sad story no matter how it sounds.
Haute Couture has a lot of former members, and even big names like Versace have been away from the haute couture scene for eight years.
There were too many waves that were heroically shot to death on the beach.
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"Brother, you think I'm stupid. I'll tell you, if I'm not bad for money, I want to soar and start with haute couture.
You don't know it, I went to see the Milan and Paris fashion weeks, and somehow became the most mysterious oriental face in the fashion industry today.
Many people have inquired about me, and they have all inquired about your old friend.
Allegro also said that if I were to do haute couture, she would be my first customer. Yan Yun was said to be stupid by his cousin, so he had to refute it with a little pride and find some ground.
"Are you short of money?" Yan Ling's focus was a little different from Yan Yun's.
"Not bad. Yan Yun quickly replied, and Yan Ling of the province was the same as when she was a child, saying that she would give her pocket money.
"If you don't have to pay for it, you can do it. Yan Ling picked up Yan Yun's answer.
"Huh, you say Gao Ding?" Yan Yun was surprised.
She just said that paragraph, just to elicit her own words.
"When I was doing my MBA, Allegro used to encourage the other two students in her class to go shopping for clothes at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week with her.
She goes every year and buys several pieces each time.
Haute Couture has only two seasons a year, and it seems that it will take several months for each garment to arrive.
So Allegro is still buying ready-to-ear (ready-to-ear) more often, and he has to buy it every once in a while.
Allegro has a wide range of contacts in the haute couture circle, and he knows a lot of celebrities in the United States and Europe.
If she says she wants to buy your clothes, it means that there is still a market for your design.
You discuss with her and see if you can pull her to do haute couture together. Yan Ling put forward his own suggestion.
"Are you kidding me? The bar for haute couture is so high, and it's basically not very profitable. Yan Yun didn't feel that he could really start from such a high starting point.
"You just said that Allegro went on a business trip to France today, didn't you?
I'll give her a call to see if she's interested.
If she's interested, you'll go to Paris tomorrow and wait to see what the specific thresholds are.
I'll buy a plane ticket and I'll go to you.
The three of us sat down and took a hard look at the feasibility. When Yan Ling talked about things related to the brand's dream, he began to act vigorously.
In Yan Ling's opinion, there are too many fashion weeks now, even if Yan Yun can stand out from a fashion week, it is impossible to have the same effect as in the sixties and seventies of the last century.
In this way, a few jokes were added together, and Haute Couture, which was not one of Yan Yun's dreams at all, directly entered the feasibility study stage.
On July 3, 2012, Yan Yun came to Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week for the first time and sat in the first row of the Chanel Haute Couture press conference.
Yan Yun's position this time has nothing to do with the background of her being rumored, but it was smashed with real money two days ago.
On July 1st and 2nd, Yan Yun bought 12 sets of haute couture daywear from Versace and Dior in one go, plus Chanel, Valentino, Armani and Jean Paul Gaultier bought on the 3rd and 4th, Yan Yun ordered a total of 32 sets of haute couture daywear this season.
Daywear is the cheapest in haute couture.
But Yan Yun's actions once again caused an uproar in the fashion circle.
Buying haute couture evening dresses or something, that is to attend important occasions, many people will be more willing to spend "huge money" on evening wear.
But daywear is what you wear in daily life, when you go to work and have a meal.
This face, which has never appeared in Haute Couture Fashion Week, spent one or two million euros on Haute Couture as soon as it was sold, and all the clothes he bought were daywear.
Haute couture customers who spend one or two million euros to buy a season's evening wear often have them, but people like Yan Yun who buy day clothes are also rare in the rare group of haute couture.
What's even more surprising is that this unfamiliar face, which has never appeared in the haute couture circle, is not a "Persian Gulf lady" at first glance.
As a result, the number of people who are curious about Yan Yun has risen sharply, especially in the circle of high-end fixed celebrity customers.
Yan Yun adheres to his consistent principles, does not say a word, and does not accept any interviews.
This is an alternative marketing strategy agreed upon by Allegro and Yan Ling, allowing Yan Yun to maintain his existing mystique.
Yan Yun was only responsible for designing and looking for skilled craftsmen, and everything related to business was handled by Allegro and Yan Ling.
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Note 1:
【Xiaomo Classroom ~ Fashion Literacy Stickers】
Baidu Encyclopedia should also be able to search for an entry about Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, but that entry is actually a bit old, and neither the standard nor the brand is up-to-date.
In the spring of 2017, there were 19 official members of Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.
The 14 official members: Chanel, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Jean Paul Gaultier, Adeline André, Alexandre Vauthier, Alexis Mabille, Franck Sorbier, Giambattista Valli, Julien Fournié and Maison Margiela;Schiaparelli;Stéphane Rolland;Yiqing Yin
Five foreign members: Armani Privé, Atelier Versace, Elie Saab, Valentino, Viktor and Rolf
This is a lot more than the first few years of the 21st century, but for today's huge fashion industry, countless fashion brands, it can definitely be said to be extremely rare, after all, haute couture in the middle of the last century was a time when a hundred schools of thought contended.
If you pay more attention to fashion, you may feel a little strange after reading this list of Xiaomo.
single-handedly arranged most of the "haute couture dresses" of the Spring Festival Gala, China's top ten designers, Guo Pei, the head of Rose Square, has been invited to participate in Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week since 2016, and he has been in the limelight for a while.
Guo Pei did go to the real Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, and it was the official schedule, but she was not an official member, but as a guest member.
As a native of China, Guo Pei's achievements are already extraordinary.